Rebecca Minkoff.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Rebecca Minkoff.

Citing Photographs of the great Master Fashion Photographer, Deborah Turbeville, Rebecca Minkoff's Spring 2015 collection took the less sultry, disturbing elements of Turbeville's work out of the Equation and created a Lighthearted and Playful Collection full of Colour and Saucy Attitude. The First Act of this Steamy play (when Turbeville is invoked, there's gonna be some steam!) was a little Wan and a bit too Cutesy Girlish to resonate with any real force, by Exit No. 10 though, things were beginning to take shape. From that point on, The looks grew stronger. They never really solidified into anything more than Fluff, but it was Pretty Fluff.

Minkoff showed Fresh Stripes and Denim looks as well as playful Colour combinations that gave the the collection a Slightly 70's Boho vibe and with the Floppy Jodie Foster "Taxi Driver" hats and Floaty dresses, that vibe was Further reinforced. The throwaway Gimmick of the 3-D Floral Finale was notable not for it being effective but more so for being quite a Yawn Inducing Trick that only inspired Minkoff Acolytes and was approached with about as much seriousness as a J-Pop song! Much more interesting were the White Lace pieces that appeared beforehand, especially the long Lace Halter gown that was a True Beauty.

Minkoff's show didn't do much to get the juices flowing, one could say it was a Pleasant Distraction. Saving that, it lacked any sense of Force or real memorable interest. These clothes will appease her loyalists, but in most circles will be quickly forgotten and discarded. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Jason Wu.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Jason Wu.

Say Goodbye to the Jason Wu of Yesteryear. The Fiercely Feminine, even slightly Madame character that was the past Wu Archetype has been encompassed within the New, Less Exaggeratedly Femme Construct of the House. In past seasons, this struggle between the Old and New Jason Wu, has led to Uneven and Frankly Unappealing collections. Spring 2015 was the first peek into the Balanced new outlook for the house which even in rejecting all that was before and embracing the Modern Aesthetic of the house. This time Wu got it Right, and in a Major Way. 

The first step in the dance of getting to the look of the New Wu is incorporating something of the Old style, even as minuscule as that may be, with the new. Where Wu has Faltered deeply in the past few seasons was falling too far away from the Tenets of his style while trying to evolve his style to what it has eventually become. This was the moment all the pieces fell into place. Wu's Femininity may be a little more on the Subdued side now, but it's in no way sublimated into non-existence, it just has taken on a different Guise. 

That manifested itself to start with as a Belted suit that had Vaguely Militaristic styling but was cut out of a Beautifully Airy Brushstroke print fabric and showed loads of leg with the wrap slit in the skirt. It inhabited a realm somewhere between Strict and Delicate. Powerful but still Soft. This Balanced Dichotomy was the secret ingredient in the Spring 2015 Wu Recipe. This was ever more evident in the Floating, Sensual dress that appeared a few exits later,

Even when Wu showed strength in his outfits, he threaded it with a Femme edge, A Slate Green Suede wrap coat, a Black Leather Shell paired with a Skinny Carbon Blue Pencil skirt, Or the Steely Perfection shown in a Palomino Colour Long sleeve Belted dress that was Full on Minimal but felt Far from Anonymous! Even his Evening options simmered with the Powerful undercurrent of Iron Tough Strength, The Beaded dresses were Sinfully Sexy revealing Leg and Back and Breast, each one a Stunner but the best of the Bunch was not a dress, but a Slender Blouse on Caroline Brasch Nielsen paired with Fluid Trousers that melded the Masculine/Feminine Halves Flawlessly! 

From here Wu went full on Glam, His duet of Evening gowns in Salmon and Navy Satin Chiffon were Drop-Dead Stunners from Top to Toe, but it was, Inevitably, Karlie Kloss that said the most in a Tea-Length Belted Shirt Dress in the same material, that was cut not to reveal, but to Infer and Infer It Did! It was Fragile and Sharp and caused a Catch of one's Breath! Hopefully, This will be the collection that focuses Wu on his True North. Wu has faltered for a few seasons too long with collections that have blurred his vision to the point of unrecognizable. This New Wu is a Synthesis of what he is trying to achieve and what he so easily achieved in the past, It's Exciting to see where this will propel Wu and his Fashion Vision. This being the first step in that Journey, One can look forward to the future with Renewed Confidence! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Wes Gordon.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Wes Gordon.

The New Minimalism. This is what occurred in the viewer's Mind as they witnessed Wes Gordon's Electrifying Spring 2015 Collection. Perusing this show, one witnessed a Synthesis of all the elements that make Wes Gordon... Wes Gordon! Distilled to a Crystalline Essence, Gordon has honed in on what his aesthetic is and how to best serve Said Aesthetic. There is an Unwavering and Frankly, Uncanny Channeling of the Minimalist period of the Early-to-Mid 90's that was embodied by the likes of Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang, and Narciso Rodriguez and even yes, Michael Kors who famously uttered about his Fall 1994 Collection that there wasn't "One Sequin, Feather, Or Bead in the ENTIRE Collection!" In some small, minute way, this collection brought to mind that Masterpiece of a collection. 

Gordon, Quite honestly, is one of the most Carefully Considerate designers in the business. His clothes are the pieces that are going to last the client a lifetime and look as Good 25 years from now as they In this Minute! Gordon is building his Brand on Unassailable Technical Facility and Design, and this Collection had both of those factors in Spades! Even in comparison to his 2014 Collections, Gordon has Pared back his aesthetic even more so. All that remained was the Essential Design Elements and his Magical usage of Fabric.

Gordon's collection focused on Design Purity and Simplicity, However, Simplicity did not mean Plainness or Boring. The collection simmered with a Sensual undercurrent that was garbed in the Flawless Chic of his Classic yet slightly skewed Sportswear. The Opening Exit hearkened back to the Calvin Klein Heady days of the 90's with an updated and Sleekly Severe Black Slip dress that gracefully slid over the body and revealed without being... Revealing! From this outpost, Gordon's Journey began and he traversed a path of Striking and Stringent Simplicity that never developed into the Boring or Banal.

A Black crewneck and White Pencil Skirt should have looked as basic as White Toast, but in Gordon's hands Simmered with Classic Chic, and a Papyrus coloured Suede Duster that surmounted a long Rib-Knit Black dress had Toughness and Gentleness in equal measure. A Linen coloured Pantsuit Had a Tomboy Strength to it that Gordon was careful in not sublimating so that it was Far more interesting than if he had Femmed it up any. This Tomboy quality is what infused the collection with such Modernity. Counterpointed by the more Bracingly Feminine aspects of the collection these two halves struck a Harmonious Balance.

Gordon has given Fine evidence with this Sharp, Sexy, Exactingly Edited collection, that he is ready to take his place as a Major Player on the Field of Fashion. This was, without One Iota of doubt, his Strongest showing and a Distillation of what is the Essence of Wes Gordon. Continuing forth in this way, he will in very little time be seen as the Luminary he is Destined to become. The Shine of his Star is already Quite Lustrous, It's only a matter of brief waiting for that Star to go Supernova!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Kate Spade New York.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Kate Spade New York.

Deborah Lloyd took a Step Back, a Deep Breath and decided to Take It Easy for Spring 2015. Lloyd's Kate Spade collection was not as Strong as the last few collections have been, But did what it needed to do and kept the collection Up-To-Date and Fresh. Lloyd was looking to create a wardrobe for Relaxing, be that Poolside as in a Pool Reflection Print, or Hanging out in the Park, or just some good old Sitting on the lawn reading a book Leisure time. Who says leisure needs to be Jeans and Flip-Flops!?!? 

Lloyd's best pieces in the collection were the ones that still looked like Fashion and not Loungewear. there was a play between Chic, Simpler pieces and More Dressy, Elegant Wear. The elegant pieces won out handily, A Rose print on a Striped Full-Skirted dress was Delightful, As was a Prim and Pristine White shift decorated with Sequin Flowers. The rest of the pieces skewed slightly less "Fashion" and did disappoint slightly. They were a Smidge too Everyday, even though they were more Upmarket than your basic Chain Store offering. 

Kate Spade has been Upping the ante recently, competing with the more major players in the Fashion Arena, This felt like, as Aforementioned above, A Step Back. It wasn't Lloyd's Strongest showing, nor her best, but it will keep things moving along nicely and Serve it's Clients well. Perhaps, Next Season will see that Sparkle that we had been witnessing return!  

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Peter Som.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Peter Som.

Peter Som was in something of a Experimental mood for Spring 2015, which didn't always play out for the best. Within the context of the experiments, the clothes looked very Forced and Tricky, but when Som let his natural instincts take over, things looked Incredible. His Bizarre and Distracting colour scheme at times was Offbeat in a very Insouciant way. When it didn't work, it had the effect of being Queasy Making.

There was much going on to Assail the eye. Off-Colour Floral combos and Colour Blocking were awkward, less awkward though than the Apron like wrap skirts that were layered on top of Shirts, Dresses and Skirts. These "Aprons" were Unfortunate and Unpleasantly Unattractive. At times, Som did hit the Right notes and the results were Quite Spectacular. A Simple Kiwi Green Snakeskin Sheath dress under a coat in a Brocaded Floral print was one of these Right notes. As was a Maxi Dress in Bold Blocked stripes in Navy, White, Almond and Kiwi was just the thing for an Evening on the Beach or Summer in the City.

The Axiom holds true, The Simpler, The Better. When Som let the purity of his work shine through, These outfits were winners, a Billowy White Shirt over Swim briefs, Or a Avocado Green Robe Coat over a Floral print shift.  A Glamourous Black Chiffon Floral print gown in Green, White and Orange at Exit No. 27 Had a De La Renta Flair to it, as did the GORGEOUS Finale Ballgown in Strapless Iridescent Carrot Orange Faille.

Som gave an Uneven if, Exuberant effort this season. It had those moments of Signature Som, Like that Striped Maxi Dress, which sang like an Opera Diva, but much of the time, this felt like a Misguided venture with Less than Satisfactory clothes littering the path. The High Points were indeed Mountainous, the disappointing opposite of that is that the Low Points, Well... Were Canyon Deep in Scale!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tome.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Tome.

Beginning a little Underwhelmingly, the Tome Spring 2015 collection designed by the Duo of Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo, Settled into it's Groove after a few exits, It Really did Groove! Gleaning Inspiration from Two Indian Artists, Photographer Dayanita Singh and Dancer Rukmin Devi. India was the Starting point, but the collection felt as American and Urban as any other collection shown this season, the Exotic overtone lent an air of the Faraway, but the clothes were rooted firmly at home. 

The opening pieces set the tone and were convincing enough, but had an Awkward air to them that begged for the pieces to be reconfigured in ways different than Martin and Lobo showed them. Around Exit No.10, things Snapped Firmly into focus and the Sailing was smooth from then on. As Rote as it may sound, it is a time tested, Tried and True Axiom, The Simpler, The Better. This was much the case today, as Lovely as the Elaborate pieces were, when Lobo and Martin kept things simple, It was Winning... A Black Lace and Plisse Satin Chiffon Dress on Ajak Deng... A sash waisted Black-on-White Pinstripe Shirtdress... The Slinky Black Plisse gown that ended the show. 

Lobo and Martin have Gained a lot of attention very Quickly and it is befitting them. They are Extremely Talented Designers and with the Crowd overflowing with Design Duos that are making their Marks, currently, One has the feeling that the Tome Duo is going to be among the Wheat Separated from the Chaff. Lobo and Martin have the goods to be one of the Upcoming Power Players in Fashion, New York and Beyond. It'll be truly gratifying to see how they change the face of fashion as they grow more Established. 

That's All.

Bye4Now.

Costello Tagliapietra.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Costello Tagliapietra.

As of late, Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra have been mining their own Sartorial lifestyle, Hence Cardigans and Plaids, Especially. for cues in their collections. This has generated quite refreshing results. Costello and Taglipietra are not designers who radically reinvent themselves season to season, Each Collection is a Continuation of the Dialogue that they have set down as the Gospel According to Jeffrey and Robert. Each new season they extend that Dialogue slightly further along, adding new words and phrases to the essential Lexicon of the brand, but by no means speaking in an entirely new tongue. So, What one sees when they view a Costello Tagliapietra collection is mush like a Satellite Orbiting around a Planet but never moving beyond that field of Gravity, but seeing different sides of that said planet as it circles it. 

Looking at the collections of the Duo from that Perspective, one is struck by how absolute the principles of their idioms are, but equally how they manipulate those Signatures and make them look different each season, but retain their Elemental and Inherent Similarity. It's Fascinating to watch and it makes their clothing Instantly Recognizable but never Stagnant or Boring. That They have managed to accomplish such a feat is due in no small part to their Dedication to their ideas and just plain old Spectacular Cut, Drape and Seam. 

Seaming in fact was the new focus this season as Costello and Tagliapietra explained that they were "Reevaluating (and Falling In Love with) the way they Put Together Clothes" and Equally, wanting to "Highlight Each piece by Delineating The Lines" of their Clothes. On the flip side of that equation the Duo admitted that they had been transfixed by David Lynch movies and more specifically, "Lost Highway" How exactly David Lynch and Costello Tagliapietra Cross-Pollinate is a Mystery to me, but it worked. No Small Miracle, That! 

In the case of the clothes themselves... Wonderful as always. The Opening Brocaded Silk suit with a Flippy, Swingy skirt in Zinc Blue was a Positive and New development for the bears of 7th Ave. It was Femme and Strong in Balanced Measure, while a China Blue dress with a pleated Circle skirt and Scarf like Asymmetric Bodice in Jersey was Signature Jeffrey and Robert. A draped Cerulean Blue Shadow Plaid dress with Solid Jersey Back also was typical of the house, But was Sexy as All Out Damn and Pretty much Perfect! 

A few other pieces stood out among the throng, they wore more Enthralling because of their Apparent Simplicity, yet there is nothing simple in achieving the Fluid ease that these Two do. A simple Crepe Jersey keyhole neckline dress in Dark Cadet Blue was Pure Mastery of the craft of dressmaking while the Turmeric and Cinnamon at Exit No. 21 had a Liquid Ease of Halston with the Louche Languidness of 70's era YSL. 

Costello and Tagliapietra put forth an, as always, Outstanding effort that continues to Define the House Signatures while carefully moving their ideas into new Spheres. One could blame them for not pushing their boundaries more Extravagantly and designing out of their Comfort Zone, But in the Grand Scheme of things, the masterful way they Reinterpret their own Fashion Identity from season to season without falling into a trap of redundancy is Quite the Exceptional Feat! Costello and Tagliapietra are not going to be radically redefining their standards any time in the foreseeable future, and the fact that they continue to Fascinate with their Body Exalting, Figure Limning, Physique Enhancing masterpieces, No one is really asking them To! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Honor.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Honor.

How Giovanna Randall manages to Delight each season with her Feminine Frippery is a Wonder. She seems to be dipping in the same well as some more established names and coming up with her own Tantalizing versions, Which are as Eloquently Elaborate as her counterparts in this Milleu. Randall took inspiration from Elaborate Interior decoration Plasterwork and Moldings. There was also a story involving a Woman of Wealth who meets a British Swinging 60's Guitarist whom she leaves all of her Wealth and Station for, to live the Bohemian Lifestyle with said Musician. Things don't work out, as love oft does, and the Lady of Wealth is left Sullen and Melancholy. 

How exactly this Narrative found itself manifest on the runway is negligible at best, but in the end, it matters very little. This collection was as Blithe and Amusing as ever and surely one of Randall's Best. Starting with The Plaster moldings idea, Randall embroidered a Sky Blue coat with Rococo Flourishes and threw it over a Scalloped Skirt. This Scalloped Sheer/Opaque Laser cut skirt would be a motif seen throughout and became a little bothersome by shows end. 

Other than that folly, Virtually everything else sang, from a Deceptively simple Shift dress decorated with "Candy Buttons" which made one smile from Ear to Ear! Also more than a little Pretty was a Rose Embroidered coat with "Trellised" Side Panels of Cutout Filigree. A Black gown with multicolour Rococo Filigree patterns was a Show Stopper and Could fit in FLAWLESSLY in a Certain Italian Duo's Collection who show in Paris whom's collection is the Spiritual Sister twin to Honor... (I Name No Names... *Smirk*)

Randall Gave such Beautiful clothes to marvel at, It was Truly Charming and Beguiling. This makes one truly Look forward with anticipation to every next presentation of Giovanna Randall at her Honor Label. This was, for myself, one of her most accomplished showings and augers well for the future. If a certain Italian Duo doesn't Watch themselves... Honor may just One-Up them! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Tadashi Shoji.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Tadashi Shoji.

Bellissima! Tadashi Shoji pulled off a Stunner of a Collection that was suffused with Exquisite Beauty from Beginning to end. Even though the collection was Evening-centric, Which is always a Detriment, it was still Captivating. I do stress, as I have many times before, it's not possible to take a collection seriously that is devoted to Evening Confections only. This was one of those collections and it would help immensely if Shoji had shown at the very least One to Two pieces that had no evening association to them, and in that sense this lack of Daywear did Hobble and Cripple the collection from being even greater than it was, which was just a succession of One Sugary Macaroon after another, 

But what Exquisite Macaroons they were... The collection was abundant with pieces to Entrance and Delight! There was much of Shoji's Favored Lace, which was as skillfully manipulated and adorned as usual and in typically Fantastical ways that stole one's breath, Though Shoji did show a Magnificent hand with more simple pieces that had little embellishment to them, Like a Dazzlingly Ice White finely Pleated dress with Sparkly Mesh inset bands surmounted by an Opulent and Dramatic White Lace Opera Cape. Or the Black Chiffon Caftan gown with Flared Sleeves and a panel of Lace down the front that was about as Plain as Shoji got in the collection!

From there, Shoji simply Dazzled with one Fascinating Gown after another, ending with a Gold filigree Lace Ensemble that was Gloriously Decadent! It does matter, Yes, It really does, when a designer shows not Day clothes and only evening wear. It detracts from the specialness of the evening pieces and assails the Eye with no relief. It's like a Meal of Milkshakes... After the 2nd or 3rd... a fatigue and repulsion set in. The Monotony must be broken up! Shoji would do himself Mountains of good to realize that simple fact in the future. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Creatures Of The Wind.

 Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Creatures Of The Wind.

"Fata Morgana" A Optical Mirage that Distorts and Transforms the Object that it is portraying is a Rather Esoteric Well of Inspiration to Draw from. When the results are as Incredible as Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters Creatures Of The Wind Spring 2015 collection, I say, Draw On! The Duo has been Consciously Paring back their trademark eccentricities over the last season or so, with the most Wondrous Results. 

Being Eccentrics, The Duo have a Trademark Quirkiness to their collections that have caught them the eye of the Fashion Cognoscenti, But as The Gabier and Peters "Style" has Matured, there has been a Reconstruction of that Quirk into something Far Less outrageous than what they have given us before. This Collection was their best to date, by Far! It was Eloquently Stylish and still Kooky! There was a 70's Housewife Vibe to the clothes that lent an Unhinged quality to show, and also which was the Twist to keep the proceedings from being too Madame! 

On Display for one's perusal, A Tissue thin Coat of Paper Voile that was thrown Off-Kilter by the oversized Bow tied at the neck, draped About a Black Dress that was Elegant and Haute without any of the Preciousness that could filter into such an Outfit. Try also, the Tomato Red Deep V-Neck Sweater with the Black Leather Dirndl skirt that was just off enough to turn it's normalcy on it's Ear. Then there was the Spanish Infanta Flair of a Pair of Swinging, Densely Embroidered Black on Black skirts and a Gilet in Antique Plum that were Exquisitely Stunning! 

What really surprised were the Ultra Special Couture quality Evening pieces that stood out so Sharply amongst the throng. From a Black cutout shoulder dress with insets of Four colours of Sequins which was Surprising and Ever so slightly imbalanced, and that made it Decidedly Modern, while a Cardinal Red Chiffon gown with a Beaded, Embroidered bodice also had those Quad Coloured Sequins as Cap Sleeve "Straps" and was as much a Siren gown as anything that will be produced this season! And the most Eloquent of Shockers, A Ballgown with a Cocoa Sequin bodice and skirt in Suntan was just waiting for it's Red Carpet. 

Gabier and Peters are poised for Greatness, This Collection is positioning them to become Major players in the Big Leagues. From what was presented here, They look like they will have just the Pop in their bats to keep them in Rotation for many a season! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Richard Chai-Love

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Richard Chai-Love.

Spring 2015 for Richard Chai was not his best showing by any colour. It was Messy, Disheveled, at times Incomprehensible. If it had adhered more to the lines of his Menswear that he presented alongside the Women's maybe it would have worked better. But here, There were random placements of ribbons of drippy, asymmetric fabric just stuck to dresses or slashed away leaving gaping areas of missing fabric. It wasn't Pretty in the least. In all honest fact, it was Patently Ugly! 

Counterpoint all of this with Pajama stripes, Pinstripes and Swirling Applique Patterns and all you had was a Hideous Mess. Even with pieces like the Opening Yellow coat or later a Porcelain Blue belted waist coat that were both greatly wearable and options for any woman on the move... these were not alone, enough to save this exposition from Abject Tragedy. 

Chai usually has a much firmer and steady hand than this, even if he indulges in some whimsy now and then, he most times has the Steely resolve to pull back and Offer a Wearable, Sensible collection. This time, There was not one Iota of that to be found and it was a Sad Disappointment in the Utmost. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

BCBG Max Azria.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

BCBG Max Azria.

There was something Ethereally Pretty about the BCBG Max Azria Spring 2015 show. Lubov Azria, head designer of the company, felt a Romantic breeze blowing through her studio and captured it in Diaphanous and Floaty silhouettes. Azria culled inspiration from a Process called "Color Reform" That is used either in Faded colours of rugs or done intentionally to older pieces to re-dye them in new hues but retain the old patterns. It worked beautifully into the more Bohemian aspect of the collection.

Soft, Fluid and Languid were the watchwords of the day and exemplified by Azria in everything from Full-ish Skirts and Full Pants but mainly concentrated on long dresses to give that California Dreaming vibe. The colours were earthy but Gorgeously Pastel, and the muted Floral prints were things of Absolute Beauty. An Ocean Blue drop waist dress with tiers and long sleeves was the embodiment of this idea, while the best piece in the collection was an unadorned white Shirt Dress with a Sash waist at Exit No. 23, that was Walking Perfection!

This was the the best showing from the house of Azria in quite a long while. Hopefully this has put Max and Lubov back on the path. One can only hope!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Coach.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Coach.

In his second collection of Ready-To-Wear for the House of Coach, Stuart Vevers is throwing convention to the Four Winds and Jettisoning the house into the Future, Whether it's ready or not. With a Collection that was Eschewing anything that wasn't Young, Fun and in a sense, Girly, Vevers showed Comic Book Colour and Characters splashed across everything and a feeling of Vivaciousness that was Nigh Impossible to ignore. Starting from the position of the Glassy Sugar Almond Coloured furs that opened the show, to the Quirky, Kooky, Gary Baseman comic characters, These options quickly pronounced that this was not the Coach of Yesteryear! 

For the moment, it would seem, Vevers is focusing on Sportswear, and doing a mighty fine job. from a Coral Pink Leather Shirt dress to a White Fisherman's coat and the most Perfect Flared Pants in the World in Sapphire and Powder Blue. Vevers is newly ensconced at the House of Coach and it seems he is finding it a Natural fit. The Handbags are looking Fresh and the sportswear is on everyone in the Fashion game's Lips. So Vevers is obviously, doing something right. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Tia Cibani.

Weds. 09/03/2014.

Tia Cibani.

Tia Cibani like a bit of Exoticism in her collections. Here today, we had a hint of Marrakech for Spring 2015. Cibani said that she is a "Big Believer In Volume" and there was much Volume on display. How effective or interesting it was, that was another matter altogether. This just didn't feel like Cibani's Strongest effort. There was a bit of the Haphazard and Plain going on that didn't necessarily come off as Cheap, but didn't look as polished as it should have.

A Beaujolais Coloured Blouson atop a Knife Pleat Skirt in Dark Cocoa exuded a Freshness that was also Classical and Easy to wear as did a Silky sheath in Plum with a belted waist. Otherwise... Nothing was truly that Memorable or Attention Getting. Cibani will keep the Devout followers of her brand appeased and happy with these new and Pretty offerings, As for making a Statement, That really didn't Happen. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

 

Josie Natori.

Weds. 09/03/2014.

Josie Natori.

Spring 2015 found Josie Natori Languidly relaxing on some Tropic Isle, Locale unknown and Unspecified. Translating that idea into the Clothes on the Catwalk gave us clothes that were Breezy, Floaty and Filmy. The Tropical, Beachy feeling also was reflected in the Refreshing and Cool tones of Stone, Neutral, and White. A Cap sleeve tunic and Pants set with a Beaded belt at the waist was Immediately calling to mind White Sands and Arid winds blowing through one's hair! 

Natori is proving herself Adeptly suited to Sportswear and to Splashy Colour. Lemon Citron, Papaya Orange, Lime Citron. There was Antique Rose, Indigo Blue and Midnight Blue in the sections that followed, and another White interlude and finally, Bronze on the last few evening pieces. Within this too, Natori is showcasing astounding technical facility. Sublime Drape and Cut are now hallmarks that have been seen in her collections Thus far, and here was no different.

Although there were many Subtle and equally Extrovert embellishments, the pieces that stood out the most were blissfully stripped bare of the Extraneous, Like an Indigo Blue Pajama set with a Wrap over neckline and sashed top over Liquid pants. Being that Lingerie is her strong suit, little wonder that, but it had such Urban Elegant ease that it Transcended any Sleepwear associations!

Ending with an almost Dolce & Gabbana-like play, the whole finale parade of models had on simple white tops and wildly printed Sarongs or Palazzo Pajama pants made for strolling along the beach at Midnight or Sunrise...  Natori is upping her Ante season to season and making the case for her becoming one of the big cats in the Zoo that is NY Fashion. If she stays the course, We can expect even Grander things to come!

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Escada.

Tues. 09/02/2014.





Escada.

Daniel Wingate, Creative head of Escada is trying to win over Newer, Younger Clients while Revitalizing the brand for the Old School Clientele to make them feel Part of the new Fashion World. Escada Has a long and storied history of playing to it's Rich, Upper Class Society clients, but even those women now don't want the Mantle of Richesse that used to hang about the Escada Brand. Wingate is charged with keeping the label relevant to it's Stalwarts but also to entice new clients into the Fold.

He accomplished that mostly with a Breezy, Fresh and Youthfully Playful Spring 2015 Collection that flirted with Less stuffy looks than usual, but still maintained a Healthy Respect for the History of the house! A Sleek and Sharp Black Pantsuit was Tickled with Black Enameled Studs which gave it a Current feeling while still being Strong and Sexy, Also of Note was a Tangerine Belted Silk Jacket over a Pair of Cocoa coloured Skinny pants that was Catering more to the Established Clientele while still having appeal for a Younger one. A Devore Organza asymmetric shift dress in Violet was a Stunner and Bridged the Gap between the two halves Swimmingly!

Wingate has vacillated as of late between forcefully pushing Escada into a New Sphere and relying on only tinkering with the house codes. This was one of those Pushes. He may find he needs to push a little more adamantly if he wants to break the Escada name free from it's past associations. He can do it, He just has to Commit!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Band Of Outsiders.

Tues. 09/02/2014.

Band Of Outsiders.

Spring 2015 Doesn't Officially Start til Tomorrow. the 3rd. but a few designers hit the ground running early and Scott Sternberg with his Band Of Outsiders Label was one of them. Picking inspiration from a Louise Dahl-Wolfe Photo of two girls in Brazil Inspired Sternberg to create a Breezy, Less Fashion-y collection and also because he was opening his first store this week, he decided to not show a Live presentation. It Irks me a lot when people do Static Presentations... Why Bother if you don't have a show to give people a reason to want to see your clothes, It does no Justice to the Clothes. Maybe next Season with no outside distractions Sternberg will present a PROPER Show. 

As it was, there were many easy and easily wearable options here, A Ladybug Embroidered Poncho top was especially Cute and Effective, A Toile De Jouy T-Shirt dress had easy appeal also. A little shift dress in Marinere Stripes with Roses dotting it and side lacing at the hem was probably the most forward of all the pieces shown.

Sternberg didn't offer much to get excited about for Spring 2015, It was all pretty and nice, but nothing to set the world on fire. Maybe this was just a refresh and he'll come back Stronger. One can only hope so. Because another dull showing like this and Not many are going to care what comes next after that!

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Unfortunately, Late.

Fri. 09/11/2014. 

Dear Readers,

As things have panned out, I am late to Reviewing the NY shows for Spring 2015 and am again playing Catch-up. Unfortunately I have had some Family issues that have Sidelined me and caused my Lateness... 

I am hoping that you will stick with me and plod along with me as I race to catch up! Thank You, Kind Readers. I hope you will Keep me in your reading future. 

Take Care, Sincerely Yours,

Terrill Lawrence Sanford. 

Zuhair Murad Haute Couture.

Thurs. 07/10/2014.

Zuhair Murad Haute Couture.

Count on Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab, The Lebanon born and based Couturiers both seem from Couture Season to Season to be travelling in Parallel lines. There's a Thread of Similarity running through their collections that is unmistakable. How exactly that comes about... Your Guess is as good as mine! Murad's Fall 2014 collection was Typically Beautiful, Full of the things we have come to expect from Murad... Lavish Gowns, Exquisite Embroideries, Stunning Detail... But that's about where it began and ended. There wasn't much more than a Procession of Candied Fairy Tales.

It Yielded Awesomely Pretty gowns, but like Saab, all that Glitter and Shine grew Tiresome, Quickly. With no Break from the Gilded Monotony, everything just degenerated into a Dissertation on Embellishment and Draping and Shine!  Not that there weren't some Jaw Slackening Moments, Surely there were. A Black Sequined Strapless column with a White Taffeta Pannier Embroidered in Stylized Black Zebra Stripes. A Strapless Storm Blue Ballgown with a Open Grid Sequined Overlay in Silver...And others. Again, Though, It was just too much of a Good thing. And that can cause one to be Bloated by the Excess. It would do Murad AND Saab to Inject some Less Sparkly options into their Haute Couture collections. These Galas of Evening Finery can only Entertain for so long!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture.

Weds. 07/09/2014.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture.

Another Disappointment. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have failed on seeming all fronts for the last few seasons. Their Haute Couture collections are Boring Indulgences and their Ready-to-Wear has just devolved into meaningless Detritus. The clothes may be striving for more commercial relevance but in taking this less arty approach, the duo have lost all of what made people interested in them in the first place. A SERIOUS and Huge Refresh is needed, And if this Fall 2014 Haute Couture Collection is any Indication, it needs to happen Tout De Suite! 

Mother always said if you haven't anything nice to say, refrain from saying anything at all... since this is a review I MUST Say something, but I will be Merciful by being Brief. Concerning themselves with the rather Quirky Idee of Wearing the Red Carpet that has become such an obsession in these last few decades was worth exploring. But the way that Horsting and Snoeren did decide to tackle this challenge was Bulky and Heavy and Unsettling. It wasn't attractive in the least and created Graphically Challenging Proportions. Their Ambitious undertaking failed drastically and Yielded not one garment of Desirability or Wearable Appeal.

Further Exploration would lead to Berating and that isn't necessary. The collection was a Failure. Pure and Simple. Nothing to Add. Nothing More to Illuminate.

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Valentino Haute Couture.

Weds. 07/09/2014.

Valentino Haute Couture.

Oh, Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo, What Magic you Concoct! Your work for the house of Valentino defies Explanation at times, There were moments in their Fall 2014 Haute Couture collection that approached such Mastery, even though the collection was less outwardly Extravagant than per usual for the duo. However, if not as Outwardly Opulent as we've come to expect from Chiuri and Piccioli, it was nonetheless still the height of Exquisite Luxuriousness in a more Quiet fashion! 

Channeling the 19th Century Pre-Raphelite Artists, Chiuri and Piccioli showed a pared back collection with a focus on Stripped down, Ascetic Forms that exemplified the Purity of the Chiton and Toga. The best outfits this time around were the Plainest, although there were a number of Stunners showcasing the Phenomenal Embroideries that are the House Signature. As for those Embroideries, even they were affected by the more ascetic ideas being expressed and were relegated to Abstract Flowers and Sheaves of Wheat, The best was the White outfits that were devoid of any embellishment or Superfluous detail including Buttons and Zips. 

There were Leather straps that encircled the torso on many outfits, gave a bit of "Bondage" Chic without any of the sexual connotations swirling about it. Which brings to mind all the sheerness seen in this show as well... it didn't come off as remotely sensual. It had a almost Virginal Naive Innocence that was Startling but also showed that capabilities of Chiuri and Piccioli in almost Penitent Judiciousness.

Another point of interest, aside from the last Three evening gowns, much of the options for evening were blissfully free of any ornamentation whatsoever. just the Gorgeous Cut and Liquid Drape of the Fabric, the Operatic Chiffon gown in Black at Exit No. 58 was a Floating Dream Equatable to the one the duo showed in their Pret-A-Porter collection near the end on Julia Nobis... the power of this Equation is that the technique is so Earth Shattering that the gowns could be interchangeable because of their faultless technique!

Strangely, As Beautiful and Exorbitant as some of the Adornment of some of the evening pieces in this collection were, and in the typical way of looking at things Chez Valentino, As expected and Desired as they were, the more elaborately decorated pieces felt somehow, slightly, out of place. Almost, dare one say, Improper! Scathingly Exquisite, Oh, God, YES! But they seemed somehow, Indecently Extravagant among  these Chaste Beauties.

Yet, That raises an interesting dialogue on the Dichotomy of this collection. If one views the whole without the more lavish pieces as relief, would this have been too Puritan to feel like Valentino at all? Or would it have been more interesting a collection, breaking new ground for the duo, if they had fully explored this Continent idea would it have been actually more Groundbreaking? One can never know and maybe it is better that way, That we have in this collection Pure as the Driven Snow outfits in Blinding Heavenly Light White Juxtaposed against outfits cut from Rare 17th Century Tapestries of Outlandish Exquisiteness and Intricacy is a Miracle of the greatest proportion.

Chiuri and Piccioli's Collection was not free from mishap, it wasn't their strongest or most even showing, but what was great about it, was Monumentally So! This showing upped the Ante as each Collection from the Val Duo has for the last 3 years or so. That they have advanced the Dialogue so far with this collection as to almost make it unrecognizable in places, yet still utterly Desirous, is an achievement or Atlas-like Strength of Identity and Imagination. It also, more so than had they just thrown down more Intricacies on top of Intricacies, propelled the duo light years ahead and gives rise to the idea that Chiuri and Piccioli may have New tricks up their sleeve to show us. It was a Brave Move, And a Wholly Exciting One!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Elie Saab Haute Couture.

Weds. 07/09/2014.

Elie Saab Haute Couture.

It was a collection of Unparalled Beauty. In Fact, it may have been the Finest of Elie Saab's Fantastical Career. Fall 2014 Haute Couture Collection was Stunning. Words Pale in any way of description. Saab must have been inspired by the Greek Muses themselves... ALL of them it would seem. That did not however, Prevent the collection, In all it's Majestic Glory, From being just another Candy Coated Sugar Fest of Glistening Bonbons. There was nothing, Absolutely NOTHING in the way of Newness or the Unexpected in this Presentation. No matter how Terrifically Beautiful Each and Every piece was, it still was just a Parade of Besequined Trifles. One after Another in an Endless Succession of Indulgent Extravagance!

Tedium set in Quickly, Tempered with the most Heavenly Awe Imaginable, one Minute, the viewer of this Phantasmagoria was Taken to the Heights of Ecstasy, the next wishing for some relief from the Richness of what was being presented! This has been the fault of Saab's Collections from Day One. Here that problem was further magnified but the Dumbfounding Beauty of it all. One could not escape how Extraordinary the Spectacle of these pieces were and Yet, that only Enhanced the Crushing Redundancy!

From Ciel Blue, to Midnight Blue, Then on to Salmon and Rose Pink (another Distracting point is Saab's Grouping of Colours by section which is Infuriating) and everything from Cranberry to Glace Blanc to Cafe Au Lait. It was truly work of Godlike proportions. We may never see such beauty again, But that we got the chance to see it in this moment... We are Forever Lucky!











That's All.










Bye4Now!

Armani Prive.

Tues. 07/08/2014.

Armani Prive.

When He's Good... He's Very, Very Good! Giorgio Armani put on a Stellar Show for his Fall 2014 Armani Prive line. It was Young, Fresh, Interesting, Polished, Jubilant! There was a bit of a Infuriating Tendency to Repeat Outfits EXACTLY, and that can cause one to see more Red than was present on the Runway, but otherwise, this was a Stellar collection.

Concentrating on Red and Black and White there was as equally Japanese as Russian Constructivist Art Inspirations to be found. The Immediacy of all that Black and Red and White was Powerful, in less steady hands it could have Easily overwhelmed, But Armani managed to keep it Young and Strict even without ever swerving into Severity! Armani showcased to Absolute Pinpoint Precision how Scalpel Sharp his Tailoring is here from a series of Zip front and Hidden Closure Jackets that were all Small, Trim, Neat and Sleekly fitted to the torso. A Fine example was the Cutaway Black Blazer of a Skirt Suit at Exit No. 18 that was so Shockingly Perfect, it hurt to gaze upon it!

Add to the mix AMAZING Coats like the White coat with Black and Red "Plaid" Stripes or the Black Asymmetric coat with Elbow length sleeves that exploded into Fluffy Pompoms of Feather at the cuffs. And Evening... Don't Even Get Me Started. One Wondrous Creation after another. From Perfect "Le Petite Robe Noire" offerings to a Gown whisked into a Frothy Frenzy of tiers in White Tulle Veiled in Red Crystal dotted Black net. Or, a Red Crystal Encrusted Strapeless Black gown with Hi-Lo Hem and one of the Most Stunning in the show... A Corolla of Tulle Tiers in Screaming Lacquer Red with a Strapless beaded bodice... DRAMA!

Armani Reprieved himself from Spring Prive's Stunningly Disappointing showing and crafted a HIT of a show with this one. This is the kind of show that will linger on in one's memory for years to come and will be a call back of more Halcyon days when the Master throws out one of his Retrogressive Downers. Oh, Believe, Armani will fall back on old tropes, But if we can struggle along through those we do get to see Bright moments such as this one... and that makes the Fight worth it all!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Chanel Haute Couture.

Ties. 07/08/2014.

Chanel Haute Couture.

What More Can Be Said than has already been said about Karl Lagerfeld? He's a Genius. Yeah, We know. He's The Most Recognizable Designer in the World. Uh-Huh. Got that. He is probably the most Talented Fashion Designer/Photographer/Instigator Around.... Sure! There is so much more that can be said but what ends does it serve? To further Illuminate something that already shines as Nakedly Bright as the Moon? 

Well... Just when you thought that all those above things were Rote, Karl comes and Slaps you in the face with a Chanel Couture showing of such an Inexplicable Nature that you are dropped to your knees in Disbelief! I have stated, At length, the Unparalleled Monument that is Karl Lagerfeld and His Imagination. I, begin to sound like an Obsessive Sycophant, I am not denying that I am, but I don't need to reiterate it Ad Nauseum. In Fact. I will cut through all the Bullshit twaddle of my Adoration of Uncle Karl and His Irrepressible Genius and all that and get on with the getting on... OK? Good!

Versailles Cross-Polinated with Le Corbusier! That was Lagerfeld's Starting Point. Baroque Versailles for the Shapes and Lavish Embellishments as well as the "Cyclistes A La Francaise" Bicycle Shorts-Cum-Court Culottes under Virtually everything. Corbusier for the Minimalized Set that Lagerfeld envisaged from an old picture of a Rooftop Garden Terrace designed by Corbusier in the 1930's on the Champs-Elysee... All in White Concrete with a Baroque Mirror and Fireplace at each end.  

By all standards, Translating this idea into one of Chanel's Ingenious sets was rather restrained in comparison to some of the most recent Spectacles, but no less extravagant when viewed in the right frame... The Entire floor of the set were Massive White Concrete Slabs (referencing Le Corbusier's terrace) inlaid Dead Center with a Baroque Chanel Medallion, Fireplaces at each end of the set surmounted by Huge Baroque Mirrors Emblazoned with the Interlocking C's. Absurdly Beautiful when the Sliding doors were incorporated and the Gold chairs for the audience. 

This Idee-Fixe of Concrete was transferred to the CLOTHES ultimately. Tiny Cubes of the stuff was incorporated into Embroideries and Jewelry in the most Stunning and Fascinating ways. It was again, Lagerfeld thinking outside the Parameters of Convention and going for the Next Thing. One can expect, from what Uncle Karl explained, That this will be showing up again as he said the artisan that supplied the house with the Material, also has the cubes in Pink and Green but couldn't produce them in quick enough time for the Show... I am sure Karl will find a way to use them, Spring RTW is just around the Corner!

But that was just one aspect of the Stupefying Whole. From the First Exit out, one could tell Lagerfeld was thinking about Shape in a Different way with the signature Tweeds. He Proclaimed that this was "Haute Couture Without The Couture!" A Sly allusion to the fact that this season (with more to be explained Later) that Many of the Shapes were achieved by Molding the Silhouettes instead of Seaming, It was half true. Much of the Clothes were Molded and Shaped, But there was seaming, Just the most Invisible kind that only the Chanel Ateliers can achieve! Though even when seaming and sewing were involved, there was a definite "Molded" Quality to the clothes that gave them Eloquent, yet Slenderizing volumes without any Bulk! By the way, that opening Exit was smothered in front and back panels in the Aforementioned Concrete Embroidery! 

As always, Lagerfeld did not skimp on the Daywear and the Tweed. Here each new Peroration was more stunning than the previous. A Pale Lavender Molded Suit on Pauline Hoarau was one of especial Caliber. As was Grace Mahary's Embroidered Multicolour Burgundy Version, But the Best, By FAR, was Ondria Hardin's Cherry Red Cutaway suit... EX-QUIS-ITE! It truly boggles the mind the Endless Variations on The Theme of a Tweed Suit that Lagerfeld Prodigiously produces... This was a Bumper Crop of some of the best he has EVER done! 

Evening... Well... Too massive an undertaking for a review that has already gone on mayhaps too long. But some of the more Soul Melting ones... Ming Xi in a Black Strapless embroidered gown with Black Feathers and Crystal Embroidery, A pair of Molten Sequin gowns with Concrete embroideries at the bust in Iridescent Silver on Lexi Boling and Quicksilver on Zlata Mangafic with a Matching Cardigan! The best though was a Floor length gown on Jamie Bochert, Cut like a T-Shirt on top with a Silver Floral embroidered Black Chiffon skirt and the "Tee" Comprised of Clear Crystals and Beads was so Outrageously Exceptional, I cannot find the words to truly describe it! 

After this Lagerfeld sent down a Parade of Snow White Beauties with Naif Rococo Embroideries that echoed the Versailles Feeling without referencing it directly, But one could definitely pick up on the Inference! It was one Masterpiece after another each more Bewilderingly Amazing than the last! What was even more so Jaw Dropping was that most were Molded... OUT OF NEOPRENE! OH! DEAR! LORD! That Lagerfeld could achieve such Balance and Sleekness out of such an Unforgiving and Disturbingly Unconventional material is a Miraculous feat that only He, His Atelier and The Almighty know how it was accomplished! 

When Ashleigh Good appeared in a Watteau back Molded Neoprene Mariee and 7 Months preggers with a round Tummy and an Equally Rounded gown... it was a Disney Worthy scene of Wonder. Even more Staggering... The Insanely Lavish Embroidery on the Watteau Train of the Bridegown. To say it was Over The Top is to Minimize Over-The-Top to Minute proportions. It was FUCKING INSANE! 

All one can say is that, It was another escapade into the Wonderful World of Karl. Is it possible that there is anything more that he can do to Awe and Amaze?  As the years grow further along, you'd have to believe that answer is No. But, As I have Stated Before... This IS Karl Lagerfeld we are talking about... That surely means that ANYTHING is Possible. And if ANYTHING IS Possible, Karl's Brain is probably Already Pondering it! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture.

Mon. 07/07/2014.

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture.

Susan Sontag. Now that's not a name Associated with Haute Couture Usually... But Alexis Mabille used her Quote, "What is Most Beautiful in Virile Men is something Feminine, What is Most Beautiful in Feminine Women is something Masculine" as his Inspire! It didn't do a damn thing in making the collection more Palatable or less Muddled.

Mabille just doesn't seem to know when to Pull back the reigns and EDIT! His Fall 2014 Couture collection was trying to Inject a little Masculinity into Frothy Feminine Frippery and Failed Miserably. The collection was still full of Frou-Frou and Meretricious Excess. The whole Masculine Idea was hopelessly lost and pretty much nowhere to be found. Mabille's work is always not just One or Two steps over the line of Good Taste, but a few YARDS over the line and it makes his work look Cheap and Costumey in it's most Over-Indulged Moments. 

There were moments of Relief, A Sleeveless Black Lace gown frosted with White Lace at the hem and Slit WAY up the front was actually Quite the Siren Gown. The White Lace and Black gown with Cape back had Glamourous Possibilities as did the Ivory and Champagne gown Embroidered with Parrots and Toucans on Branches that looked Quite Whimsically Lovely. but the best piece was honestly the simplest, A Broadtail jacket with Mink trim worn over a Short beaded Lace Shift. It was Wonderful, Restrained and Elegant. 

But when it goes wrong... it goes WAY WRONG! That happened here today, but Thankfully, Mercifully. Not too much. The collection was split Down the middle of Great and Ruh-Roh Rhaggy! Mabille is Way too talented for such Juvenile Excesses. He needs to Refine, Refine, Refine his Aesthetic and Weed out the pieces that are just Exercises in Audacity and Learn that True Audacity is when something can Incite Awe and Equally, Channel Restraint! When he gets that Mix right, He'll be a Dangerous Couturier! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture.

Mon. 07/07/2014.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture.

At Giambattista Valli's Fall 2014 Haute Couture Collection, There was a Disorienting feeling that somehow, we were watching the wrong show of the season... Why is that you ask? Well, Because the clothes being presented in the first half of the show are resolutely Spring/Summer like! That's Why! And according to Valli, It was the way he planned it from the start! Valli imagined a 50's Starlet on Holiday at some Mediterranean Resort, Lounging Poolside in Stripey Pajamas Or Perhaps a Shirtwaist dress of her Current Beau's Sashed at her waist... You know, as 50's Starlets were inclined to do!

There was something also of a Sly Commentary here on how the Couture Customer of Today, The New Rich, are not bound to One City, One Place, One Country, They Jet Set where the Sun or the Whim takes them and Valli realizes that many of them don't stay where it's Cold if they have no need to. So, it could be off to a Yacht in the Aegean or A Jaunt down to Brazil, It could be Anyplace, Anywhere, Anytime and her wardrobe needs to be able to bend with her Desires. This was that kind of Collection. Some Like It Hot, Ya Know!?!?

So the first half, while being framed in the Realm of Fantasy, worked as Fodder for the Lady who Travels to where the Sun is. And the clothes were Light and Buoyant and SHEER Enough for such World Travelling Excursions. As the collection Faded into the Second Half, the More Cooler temperature clothes came into View. Those Channeled the Starlet, again, But this time it was More a 30's-40's Starlet, Glamourous to a T and Working The Drama Plus vibe for all it was worth! There was a Hint of Gloria Swanson, Joan Crawford, Bette Davis... All Women that Conveyed Images of Take No Shit Power and Valli Honed in on that with Eagle Eye Preciseness!

To be Quite Honest, There was too much here going on that was Impossibly Beautiful, One is spoiled for choice in the extreme as which to single out among the Best. It was that Impeccably perfect from Beginning to End that it is a useless task to try. Ok... The Black Opera gown with the "Monkey Fur" Cape (Was actually Goat Hair) was Beyond Stunning and the White Opera Gown and Cape was even Better a Few exits later! And to even mention those Fluffy Mountains of Tulle that closed the show is Foolishly Unnecessary! The Speak Encyclopedic Volumes for themselves!

Valli has been on such a Roll lately it's hard to believe that his Oeuvre could get any better... And then it DOES! This was perhaps his most Magnificent show to date and it makes one Itch for what is to come! Usually after something like this, A Designer will have a Fallow moment where things fall apart a bit. With such Magnificence already put forth by him... He's got a Pass or two on the next collections if they Fail to meet the Standard of Brilliance we have gotten used to from Him!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Christian Dior Haute Couture.

Mon. 07/07/2014.

Christian Dior Haute Couture.

Time to eat some Crow. I take back every Single Bad Thing I have said about Raf Simons! He proved beyond any Comprehension how Vast his Talent is with the Fall 2014 Couture Collection for Dior. It was an Epic of Sweeping Scope and Intellectual Breadth that was one of those few occasions in Fashion where you FEEL it more than Understand it. This Resonated like a Shotgun in a Crowded room! Simons took us on a trip to some place, some Undiscovered Country, where only Fashion Existed. Time had no meaning, Decades, Centuries, Eons perhaps, Converged in this Gleaming, Futuristic Orchid Laden Amphitheatre (Would there be any other Flower in such a space other than the Haughty, Imperious, Cold, Detached Orchid? Roses would be too Robust for such a Sterile, Clinical Space!) 

Simons Technique was what was so Distractingly Reverberating. These clothes were Intelligent and Flawless. Executed with Maniacal Precision. Simons was "Curious" As to how Different time periods can and DO influence Subsequent ones. And in this case, Vice Versa. He also wondered how his work would be informed had he been designing during the Belle Epoque, A period Monsieur Dior was Fascinated with. Simons got into thinking "What would he be excited about?" if he had lived in the Beautiful Age? 

Starting with the Rococo Shapes of the 18th Century, Pannier shapes gave the opening octet of dresses Swaying roundness to there skirts but offered freedom with none of the Rib-Crushing Spine-Attenuating Rigidity of Corsets. Not less important either, In Simons' hands the Panniers were Light, Modern, Dare One Say, Urban? One could see these dresses as much for Day as for Evening and that is where Simons' Real Magic lay. He took a Silhouette that has, in the now, associations as an Evening Only option and Reconfigured it back to it's original form of being the clothes worn For Day AND Night and made a Pretty Convincing Damn argument for a Lady to traverse the Modern Day world in a Pannier Flared skirt! That's Some Kind of Magic There, Buddy! 

Simons Traipsed next to the Future Via the 60's with his take on Astronauts Space Suits. Which mayhaps, was the most surprisingly touching moment in the whole show. There was a Naivete, An Innocence to these pieces that we have lost in this Modern Day Society of Interconnectedness Via technology. Here was the Burgeoning of all things Modern, but still we had not the Jadedness of now. To see how Raf Took the Past and shuttled us to a Future that instead of being Cold and Bleak, Was Sweet, Charming, Naif with it's Pastel floral embroideries with a Baroque flair, Brought tears to my eyes for the Insouciance of such Radical and Considered thinking. I fell in Love in that Moment, Right then, with Raf! It was Poignant, Wistful, Melancholic. Maybe even... Optimistic!

Then we were off to... Well One hasn't really an Idea of Where. Maybe it was Now. Simons' idea of the Modern Dior woman and her wearing Orthodox Plain Clothes but in Deceptively lovely materials. There was something Perversely Everyday about this section with it's Orgasmically Fabulous Long lean Coats, Especially The FURS! There was something Arousing how one could Firstly, see someone in Couture going so Balls-Out for DAY WEAR and making it look as Couture as the Confections, Secondly, For how in his Time-Travel Machine, Simons not only looked to other periods, he looked to the other names that Preceded him... here there was a Undoubted reference to Gianfranco Ferre and his Heyday at Dior. Look at those Long Fur coats and Sleek pants and tell me you don't see Ferre? 

Don't Believe me.... In the "Bar Jacket" Section that would come up next to last, The Off-The-Shoulder Enormous Collars on the Jackets and Coats... Simons was Conjuring Up Galliano's Second Couture Collection for the House. Slap a Neck Straining Ndebele Necklace on one of those girls and Shrink the waist in... TA-DAAAAA! Even the Embroidered Court Jackets were a Mashing up of Ferre and Galliano and Even Marc Bohan to some degree. This was the most Exceptionally Beautiful Section of the whole affair. Those embellishments were Undeniably Heart Stopping Exquisite! The Black with the Pink and Gold... Words Fail. The Mint Green Broadtail with the Lime Jello Green Crystals... I DIE! It was Too MUCH! Just So Special! 

It was in the last Section though, Where Raf Pulled a Fast one and got it by most everyone and slyly, Secretly Made a Circular Reference that few caught. These Filmy Dreams were Simons' Call back to the beginning of the show. It was HIS Synthesis of Rococo for now. Now that he had Modernized the Pannier and made it an accessible option for Daytime, Here he was bringing it back to Evening but in the Lightest, most Ephemeral way possible. Where as the Pannier Silhouettes were starved for adornment, here, In his modern way, he Highlighted it on these final Quintet, Also, these dresses achieved Billowy Volume without the use of a Pannier, but had the 21st Century look of a Pannier! The Marine Blue one on Grace Mahary had me Salivating, SO GOOD! 

As the models strode through for their Final Pass, Something Revalatory happened. One seeing all the pieces stride through the Show Space... how these outfits seen all together, didn't seem at all Disparate. They seemed as if they were all part of the same Dialogue, just different aspects of it, Perhaps that is why Simons Isolated each section to itself, So when the Final look at all of them together one would realize that Simons didn't Concoct Tableaux, He had created a Entire Wardrobe, Just different aspects of it. In the end, It was Brilliance Exemplified! Simons Stole my heart with this show, I hadn't felt like this about a Show since Spring 2013 Couture and Karl Lagerfeld's Forest Romp for Chanel which Broke my heart with it's Ungodly beauty! This didn't come close to that, but it succeeded on it's own level of making me Weep! 

Raf Simons, I Apologize! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Schiaparelli Haute Couture.

Mon. 07/07/2014.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture.

Marco Zanini Has Done it again! His Fall 2014 Haute Couture show for the House of Schiaparelli was a work of Insane Eccentricity and Beautiful Execution! Where he was Admittedly Afraid of adhering to much to the Elsa Legacy for his Debut almost to the point of ignoring it, here he faced it dead on and didn't Blink. He acknowledged the Histoire du Maison and Campily (In a good Way) Reinterpreted that legacy for the now.

Aside from all that, Zanini's is a Voice that is sorely missing in the Haute Couture. The Voice of I Don't Give A Fuck Extremeness, Like the once Mighty Lacroix and the Missing British duo of Galliano and McQueen. But Zanini is more in tune with Lacroix and it Shows. Who else would pair Acid Green Crocodile and Matched Fur in a Zip front Jacket over a Pleated dress in Neon Granny Smith Green and Purple with a Print of Poodles? Only someone as Fearless as Lacroix in the past would have and now Zanini has taken up that mantle!

There was much to Marvel at, A Tiny Sable Bolero in Milk Chocolate is probably wait listed to February 2015! A Sweeping Pink Coat of Joan Crawford Caliber Embroidered with "ES" in a nod to the Mistress of the House, A Seemingly Simple Copper blouse with a Humongous Bow at the neck paired with High waist Pink Trousers with Super Wide Legs. A DAMN ZOOT SUIT, For Pity's Sake! Just Stunning!

Zanini didn't face the Giant Elephant lurking about in the room to great distraction to himself and fans of the house for his Debut, yet on Imaan Hammam he Faced it Dead on and again, Did not Flinch! The Said Pink Elephant, A piece in Elsa's Signature Shocking Pink. Here he demonstrated no Fear and Supreme Confidence. It was "Shockingly" Good!

This all Augers well for Zanini's Future at The House. He is winning fans and Critical high points with ease and turning out fun clothes like this, Hell, he may even inspire Lacroix to get his Ass back in the game. The Climate seems right for an Eccentrics Take Over, Don't You Think? Vive Le Revolution!










That's All.










Bye4Now.

Atelier Versace.

Sun. 07/06/2014.

Atelier Versace.

Taking chances is a Good thing, Taking chances. in Fashion, is an Essential part of Forwarding the ideas and designs of a house and Keeping things fresh. Sometimes, However, in that spirit of Risk, things can backfire. That was the case for Donatella Versace and the Fall 2014 Atelier Versace collection. Her risk taking paid off Big Time in certain ways and in others, Kind of a Miss! The Miss? Those Unfortunate One Pant leg pieces that at First blush had a Cool, Look-At-Me... I'm-New feeling to them and were getting points for being new and innovative, Yet the longer you looked, the more Annoying and Distracting they became. 

Elsewhere, The Huge Draped Ballskirts that ended the show were Pure Perfection. In between, we had a Fifties influence that came and went pretty damn quick. As the show opened we had the Corseted waist of the 50's silhouettes on display in a Pair of Suits that were Instant Successes and a White Pantsuit that was just Smouldering with Glamour! 

One thing that was Patently evident, Donatella was Channeling her Bro, Gianni for SURE in this collection. From the Rolled, Padded sleeve trims on some of the gowns to the Draping of all those Ball skirts... Look at Exit No. 25 and tell Me that isn't something Gianni would have done!?! Aside from that, Almost nothing with the One Leg Idea worked... Except that One Hybrid Pant/Gown on Anja Rubik in the Crystal Mesh. It could be because it was the best of the offerings in this Idea... Or that it was on the Stunning Perfection of a She-Beast that is Anja! I think it was a little of both! 

As for those Ballskirts... again, Brother Gianni would be Proud as a Peacock seeing these! That they were attached to Corseted (Hidden inside) Bodysuits made them all the more Uber-Moderne. The Black skirted one on Kati Nescher looked like Leather but was actually Glazed Silk and was Truly Stunning. The Antique Pink one on Daria Strokous was in Duchesse and was Mind Blowingly Phenomenal! While the White Glazed Silk that ended the show on Stella Tennant could function as a De Facto Wedding Gown. 

While the risks didn't pay off as much as the Beyond Spectacular design of the rest of the collection, it was refreshing to see Donatella step outside her area of most comfort and do something new. The collection was a Head to Toe winner for that simple fact alone!










That's All.











Bye4Now!

Playing Catch Up!

Tues, 09/09/2014.

Hello, Dear Readers.

I am playing Catch up. I am done with Fall 2014 (HUZZAH) And am about to devote myself to Spring 2015 New York. Gotta Catch up over the next day or so, Have a few Haute Couture Shows I must cover and then on to NY! Bear with me, Please and thank You! :-) 

Love You All. Thank You SO Much!

Yours,

Terrill Lawrence Sanford.

Hermes.

Weds. 03/05/2014.

Hermes.

What A Way To Go. By the writing of this it is well known that Christophe Lemaire has Exited his design duties at Hermes to focus on his own label, Best of luck to him. It's a Bittersweet collection then when one realizes that Lemaire was in that Sweet spot and hitting collections Out of The Park like his Name was Cabrera! This Was one of those Hits.

Not to suffer in the Saccharine or Melancholy, Short and Sweet and To The Point will be this Review. This was a Touching Farewell to his clients and he gave them EVERY SINGLE THING They would need for the Coming Fall-Winter months and gave them these items in some of the most Exquisitely Luxuriant and Expensive forms available! From the Massive, Yet lightweight Great coats (the one that Opened in Pearl Grey was beyond Sensational) to Tailored Pantsuits with Generous Slacks, From Opulent and Sumptuous knits to a Leather Blouson Jacket and Pants ensemble that was as Tender as Grandmother's Biscuits!

But you say Standouts... Oh God, where to Start? A Funnel Neck Double zip front Knit Tunic in a Shade of Mossy Green, Or the Most Perfect Pantsuit in the Known Galaxy on Tilda Lindstam in Wheat paired with a Simple Tee. Or the Heart Stopper... A grained Black Leather Wrap coat that must have been made by Angels, it was so Sublimely Soft and Supple...

As an Exit, Lemaire is leaving the house positioned for it's new Designer to do some Amazing stuff. They will have an archive of Utter Greatness to Cull from and Adapt to their own taste. But it will be the Rare talent that will outshine Lemaire's Contribution to the House of Hermes. He was The Human Equivalent of a Kelly Bag. And like each Kelly bag that is made, He was One-Of-A-Kind! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Miu Miu.

Weds. 03/05/2014.

Miu Miu.

Taking the time to decode all the Subtle Eccentricities and Codes of Prada is something of an Exhaustive and Quite Honestly, Irritating task sometimes... Sometimes it should JUST be about the Clothes, No? Prada Layers on the MEANING and SUBTEXT and INFERENCE So thick sometimes that only the most Pompous of Fashion Aesthetes get all Swoony about it (Tim Blanks, Anyone?) Other times you know people like Wintour and Bailey, when it boils right down to it, are just wondering... Are the Clothes Salable? Can we Shoot them for the Magazine? Good, They're both...???  Fine! Cut, Print, Wrap! It's Ovah! Prada can't help herself, It's her Modus Operandi and I would never expect her to be any different, but sometimes as the Voyeur, You just GOTTA Cut through all the Inanity and Asininity and Downright HORSESHIT and Get to the Damn Clothes! 

That's what I shall do. The Fall 2014 Miu Miu presentation... It looked like she made bigger versions of the clothes from the Girls section of Old Navy! It was deeply Sportswear driven and in that Prada was making some kind of Statement of Normality, What it looked like more was that she wasn't trying all too hard to make a Show. There were some Wonderful Windbreakers and Coats, but all those bare short shift dresses in those sickeningly Girlish Brocades and Jacquards were Off-Putting in the Utmost and looked Jejune and Junior! 

The Clear Plastic Macs were the Winners of the day here, and not much else. Prada Needs to Try Harder, And Think Less. This and Spring were Ho-Hum affairs with too much emphasis on Costumey looks and little Depth. This season was lacking from beginning to Confounding End! This is the stuff that may Light some people in the Fashion Industry's Fire, All I was left was Cold! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Louis Vuitton.

Weds. 03/05/2014.

Louis Vuitton.

So Marc Jacobs has left the Building. And in his place... Nicholas Ghesquiere. Shoot Me Now! Louis Vuitton has Replaced Wildfire Talent with Horrifically Inept Talent. There goes my Love of all things Louis Vuitton! This was destined to be a move of the most Egregious Scale. Marc Jacobs, A man so full of Whimsical and Blissful Talent being replaced with someone that by Calling him a HACK would be a Compliment, Like Nicholas Ghesquiere...???? WHY? Does! Not! Com! Pute!

So when show time rolled around, I, For one was ready to Laugh my ass off AND Cringe at how GHASTLY I was assured the collection was going to be. So, Colour Me Dumbstruck when out strolled Freja Beha in a Sleek Black topcoat and Vanilla A-Line dress under looking As mod as Diana Rigg in "The Avengers" Jaw, Officially Dropped!

From this Opening, Ghesquiere continued to Delight and Confound with SUPER Sharp, Wearable, Covetable clothes made for Real, Urban Women! There was of course, some of Ghesquiere's Quirk in the mix, and that's what made it Really Desirable. Here, Those Kooks of Nicholas' were right in step with the Legacy of Jacobs' and with the type of clothes being shown! Everything had the Speed and Efficiency of Zips and Snaps and the Freedom of A-Lines. It was all Very Efficient and Streamlined. Plus, That Black Croc coat at Exit No. 26 is Officially Godlike!

SO, By the time it was all said and done... Ghesquiere had proven what had been thought Nigh Possible.... He can Actually Design Beautiful, Real, Meaningful Clothes that work on Real Women in Real Life. That was an Accomplishment of Herculean Stature. Let's hope Nic doesn't start to Backslide into old habits and bring those Atrocities from his Balenciaga Past to the Coveted house of LV! That cannot Happen. Not EVER! There is too much Special here, at THIS House, To Contaminate with such Perversions of Fashion!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Alexander McQueen.

Tues. 03/04/2014.

Alexander McQueen.

It was a Typically Grandiloquent and Gobsmacking showing from the Fabled house of Alexander McQueen for Fall 2014. It was Sweeping, Poetic, Romantic, Savage even... Blah.... Blah..... BLAH! Sarah Burton has been Spot-On in her continuation of the Fierce and Fiercely Romantic World of The Late, Great, Lee Alexander McQueen. She is continuing to speak in his Tongue while teaching it a new language that is all her own. This has come across in some Powerful shows of her own, with Technique and Drama To Spare, both merging into something wholly different than what they started out as.

However, Just like Alex, Sarah can get caught up in her own story and begin to look like she's repeating herself without exactly doing that. That is why, this collection felt... Hackneyed. Atavistic. We may not have ever stormed these shores before, But GODDAMN It felt like we had! This was so POINTEDLY McQueen that it felt like it was An Homage, A Costume Drama. Not the look of what McQueen is supposed to be leading into 2015... Damnable for it's Crippling Difficulty in achieving such Beauty, Oh yes!  Do not get me wrong, It was Hellishly Gorgeous, Though, sometimes Gorgeous Ain't Enough! 

Spring was so Tension Coiled and SO Directly FORWARD, as if Burton was Bruce Banner in Shackles and was in the middle of turning into the Hulk and was straining at those restraints... ready at any second to Burst free of them, This felt like the Hulk had been given a rather Potent Cocktail of Morphine and Thorazine and was shrinking back down to Normal Scale. Lee himself was like this, at times Pushing himself outside of his limits and coming back with something Rare and Treasured, But on the very next beat of the dance, He was retreating back into his Safe Place and simply augmenting the work he had done before and calling it the next thing. Burton is following him Step-For-Step!

Summing it up. Yes, it was a Grandly Operatic gesture with Award Deserving Costumes swathing something of such Opulent Proportion. It just wasn't really all that Interesting. A Lot of Technique and a Lot of work trying to live up to a Big Story and in the true heart of the matter, Neither truly had much of anything to say! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Valentino.

Tues. 03/04/2014.

Valentino.

In what might be considered Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's Most Intellectually Brilliant effort for the House of Valentino, Fall 2014 didn't make any sense until you were more than Halfway through it and then all the Tendrils and Threads Pulled together and the Magnificent Whole finally made sense. How things Interconnected to one another and how the Duo Referenced back to pieces from earlier in the collection in the latter half of the show. It was truly, Quite Marvellous!

To say that there was a 60's Feeling in a Valentino show is like saying there was Tweed in a Chanel Show. Maria and Pier have set there feet FIRMLY, For Good or Bad in the Mod Decade. Why? Who can truly know, but it's their comfort zone and proves and endless Bounty of ideas. Here it was the Poptical Art of the era that was the starting point. Spots of all shapes and sizes and Seizure inducing colourations started off the show. White, Blinding Fuschia, Black, Pink and Fruit Punch Red. Then in those Sick colour combinations of the 60's Olive, Tomato, Cocoa... all Optically bound together in Unholy Matrimony! 

But, It worked! Another aspect that worked like Magic, even though we Love our Valentino Wantonly Embellished to the most Nightmarishly difficult degree... what really worked here was the pieces that were Dead Simple and relied only on the most Breathtaking Cut and Seam that only Val's Roman Atelier can produce. So yes, for every ACHINGLY Exquisite Embroidered Confection the duo can produce, when they apply the Principles of simple Tailleur and Flou, The results an actually be more Heart Stopping! 

Don't Believe... Look at the section early in the Show of Heavy, Yet Limpid Jersey pieces with no Embellishment at all and with Elasticized cinched waists in Moss Green, Rose Pink and Nuit Gris... Devastating! The same could also be said for a Haunting Dream of a Gown in Gris Ombre Mousseline on Julia Nobis that moved with Regal Gravitas and was Magisterial in it's subtle Grace! It was one of those Gowns that gave you CHILLS! 

But... C'Mon! You KNOW you come to Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo for Freaking OUTRAGEOUS Embroideries! We all look to this collection for Mind Blowing Craftwork. Here, The Val Duo played some tricks with Prints and Metallic Brocades that Looked like Embroidery but were Printing and Weaving Techniques and the opposite, things that looked like Prints or Brocades were actually Embroidery and Applique... it was Dizzying on the most Delicious Level!

A couple Major points, the Butterflies, which popped up everywhere and were a Holdover from Pre-Fall, Might have just become a Signature print for the house, and the Noah-Like Animal Menagerie Print that was Quirky and Beautiful! These were Standouts in a field of Incredibly Gorgeous Prints and Embroideries.

The Finale offered us Too, Too Many stunners to in any way make comment as to which ones were the biggest standouts... they were all Equally Splendiferous! One could only pick by saying which one moved them more emotionally, for me that would be the Dark Chartreuse Gown on Malaika Firth and the Aurora Grey one on Nastya Sten!

Maria And Pier seem to be on an Unstoppable Trajectory of Magnificence. Each new collection is not a rewriting of their ideas, it's a Gentle continuation of a Dialogue, that each season unearths new Topics and Subjects to riff on. They Continue to Advance the Conversation but never lose the Main focus of the Colloquy. Their Collections are Ever Evolving, But maintain the thread of Similarity that immediately Identifies a Valentino Piece as Such! It's Daring and It's not the Way Modern Fashion would have us believe things ought to work, But considering what house the Duo are designing for. It Makes Perfect Sense. It's The Valentino (as in Garavani) Way!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Chanel.

Tues. 03/04/2014.

Chanel.

How is it that in the span of barely 6 months... Karl Lagerfeld Transformed from Art Maven to Cowboy to Intergalactic Night Club Impresario to now... Mega Mart Magnate? It is Frightening in which the speed that Lagerfeld's Mind works at. He is thinking up and about things in such Copious Layers that I am very sure HE isn't always fully aware of what and why he does things. He is awfully fond of saying he doesn't think too much about things, he just does, if it's right, if it's wrong, he just goes by his Instincts coupled with his Intellect. It was a Billion Dollar Bold move to Transform the Grand Palais into a Nearly 140,000 Square Foot Supermarket Stocked with over 100,000 items varying from such playful play on words Items as Jambon Cambon (Ham), to Le Cube Chanel Bouillon... From Lait De Coco (Coconut Milk), to Huile D'Olive Extra Vierge, Domaine de Roquebrune (which is where Coco's Summer house, La Pausa is located!) to Tons of Produce and Cheeses and Smoked Salmon and Sausages and Gummies to My Personal Favorite, The CHAINSAW with the Leather Threaded Chanel Classic Flap Bag Chain handle as the Chain!!!  It was Utterly, Head Spinningly Dazzling! 

P.S. There was Literal LOOTING of the Gargantuan Spectacle of a Set by the Fashion Fashionable in attendance, Ripping the "Madamoiselle Prive" Doormats and Kitchen Towels and Feather Dusters, Vases, Flacons and all manner of home products that were not faked for the runway (Like the Paints and The Sirops and Such) Security had to gently... Ahem... "PERSUADE" The looters to part with their Items before trying to leave the Grand Palais Show place! MADNESS!

Before we go into the clothes, One must remark on the rather Bitter undercurrent of Sarcasm that Lagerfeld's Mind was ping-ponging around with this Sharply Biting Jab at his Fashion Junkie Followers. That, even though 80% of the products were fake, it proved How Ravenous we all would be (Me Included) if such a Supermarket of the Chanel Existed! The previously mentioned looting just goes to show that people with Great amounts of Money and Good jobs are reduced to Animalistic ripping and Clawing at Goods that were produced for a "FANTASY" That even though they already had Much free swag as being invited guests to the Extravaganza... It wasn't Enough! They Hungrily wanted MORE Iconography. It was the Savage Inverse of these same people wondering how much the Art was on display at the Spring Show and being told with great delight that it wasn't for sale! Where they wanted more of the Chanel World to indulge in but couldn't... Now they were going to TAKE it, Whether it was for Sale or Not! Karl couldn't have Possibly known this (Or Could he...???) would be the result. But one seems to get the impression that he may have Vaguely Fathomed it somewhere in his Diabolical Mind!

So what does that say about us? That we have become like Crack addicts to the Celebrity of Fashion? look at how the Twitterverse and Facebookland and Instagramworld Blew The Ever Loving FUCK UP Because Kendall Jenner (Sister of the Whore of Media that is Kim Kardashian) walked in the Show. Was that another Karl Calculation? Who can Say? It did get as much publicity (Perhaps More) than Lagerfeld's Gaudily and Horrendously Expensive  Epic Phatasmagoria of a Set and Show! And Karl is all too aware that any publicity, is Good publicity and will keep Chanel and His name on Peoples Lips! It was a Stratagem of Diabolic Envisioning.

The Clothes... Well. Let's simply say, Fabulous! There, AS ALWAYS, are too many Spectacular items in a Chanel Blockbuster to put down in one review... you'd need a full Catalog to do that. But Karl did Continue the conversation he started in the Spring Couture concerning Sneakers and Corseted waistlines, but now more Democratic and Less Precious (Well not everyone can afford $6,000.00+ Handmade Sneakers, Can they?) and Less Punishing (The Corseting is now adjustable via Zippers) and the Sneaks have risen to become Knee-High boots (a Witty Jab at Converse, perhaps?)

There was a Stranger than Ever, For Karl, interest in Bulkier Volumes that were far more Forgiving than his usual assault on all things less than Pencil Thin. The Blouson tops of the Zippered Corset waists and the slightly more full bottoms of the same pieces gave a new Freedom that had some saying that they clothes were Heavy, Cumbersome, Un-Lithe! There did seem to be a Generosity to the clothes that would make them more... Shall we say, Egalitarian. Yet and Still, This is Lagerfeld we are talking about, so for every more Generous Silhouette there was something just as Spirit Crushingly Slim and Lean waiting around the corner!

Karl found inspiration in Optical Art as well this season but did it an Abstract Art kind of way that recalled Matisse or Miro or even Ellsworth Kelly. They were Gaily Bright and Fun and a refreshing addition, especially when paired with the three "Citrus" Colour Tweed coats lined in the print and worn with Tops or Dresses and Scarves of the print and all worn with Leather Pants in "Orange" "Lemon" and "Lime" Witty, No? A Pair of Zip-Front Tweed suits were cut with Couture Attention to detail and made quite the impression in Camel and Dark Magenta. The Black Leather Dress with Beaded "Zipper" Details on Joan Smalls was also speaking volumes!

More moments... Ok! The Layering of Bermuda shorts layered over wide leg Pants lent even more credence to the fact that Lagerfeld was thinking more Broadly... And, The Accessories.... HEAVEN! The Tweed Sunglasses are IMMEDIATE MUST HAVES, The Aforementioned Mixed Media Sneakers, The Shrink Wrapped handbags like Meat from the Grocers with labels stuck on them proclaiming 100% Agneau or Veau  (Meaning either 100% Lambskin or Calfskin) The Gigantic Padlocks... For spring there were "Earphone" Pearls, Now there are Real Earphones. There was Too, Too much abound to fully grasp even in a Thrice-Over. And that is precisely what made it so Enchanting and Silly and Uplifting.

Whether there was an Uppercut to the face kind of commentary on Consumerism and Satire on The Fashion Worlds Endless obsession with Labels... It all didn't matter in the end. In the end, It was just a Fantastically Jolly, Funny, Stupid Romp through a Megalithic Supermarket in Wildly Expensive clothes and Gym Shoes! And if you look at it that way, Then Lagerfeld's Achievement was Far more Monumental than any of the other Subtexts Combined!










That's All.










Bye4Now!