Sun. 09/08/2013.
Derek Lam.
After a Wondrous Fall 2013 Collection, One had High Hopes for Derek Lam, who has in his decade of business produced some quite lovely and impactful collections. For Spring 2014, he might have just produced the best collection in his career so far! He also might have produced the best collection of the Entire New York Fashion Week. Yes, It was that Glorious!
The collection Radiated with a Reserved Calm and Languid Chic that served the ease and artiness of the clothes most brilliantly. The Outsize Gingham pieces that opened the collection hearken back to the great Sportswear past of American Designers and had a Outward Simplicity that was betrayed to be far more involved than the idea of Simple Sportswear. Sportswear it may be, it is Far more Luxe than The American Sportswear of Yore! The clean lines and restrained Aesthetic were only surface... as one inspected further into the clothes it was obvious that Lam has deeper Technical skills that belie the Simple, Puritan Lines of this collection!
The opening salvo of Blown-Up Gingham took all the Saccharine Sweetness usually associated with the print away and made it more grown up and Modern. It was Unfussy and Womanly, Not girlish! The Sharpest outfit being the last... Exit No. 8 A Cap Sleeve top in Black and White worn over Tapered trousers in Black could take any woman in any major City around the Globe from The Office to any other occasion her life dictated, School Meeting, Luncheon with her Girlfriends, Early Dinner with the Man of her life, Family outing... it was Universal in it's ease and it's context of Wearbility!
Model Liu Wen DEVASTATED In Exit No. 11... A Dark Chambray Wrap Coat-Dress that had Absolute Effortless ease ingrained into it's very DNA! It was... Revelatory! Easy! Clean! Spare! Chic! Every catchword that any woman shopping for clothes for her REAL Life would gravitate to! The same Fabric on Herieth Paul at Exit No. 13 was Weekend Sister to the Previous exit and would be at home in Upstate New York as Upper Peninsula Michigan! From a San Francisco Brunch to A Weekend in The Country!
There was So much more to love in this Exactingly Edited collection... But I will only highlight a few more.. Those Handpainted Lace dresses with the cropped tops showed off Lam's Edge but still remained Thoughtful and Wearable whilst being Editorial and A Bit more Urban and Cool! And finally, Lam's Miniscule offerings for evening offered some of the highest impact in the whole of the season. Memorable for their Drop-Dead Slinkiness as well as their Pared down Luxury! Exit No. 26 Glistened with Scores of Densely Embroidered Black Sequins that gave it an almost 3-D Look about it, but also plenty of Laid Back Glamour. The Academy Award Winning Stunner in Strapless Canary Yellow Crepe Georgette Emanated Refined, Restrained Glamour in a way that only YSL once upon a time could evoke! It has perhaps been my favorite piece of the entire season! The Final Exit in the DEEPEST Ink Blue Satin was also going for the Gold and Looked Super Seductive in doing it!
It was a showing of Superior Talent and Scalpel Sharp focus that all culminated in a collection that was Overwhelming in it's Scope! It took real life clothes and elevated them to something far more Ephemeral than the mundane idea of "Everyday" would suggest! It Moved Me. I was Stunned to my core and Pleased beyond Description.
And when a Fashion Show can do that, Chillrens... You Know you have Witnessed Something Divine!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Sunday, September 15, 2013
Saturday, September 14, 2013
Delpozo.
Sun, 09/08/2013.
Delpozo,
Spellbinding. Awe-Inspiring. Transfiguring. Words that are still at a loss to provide proper context to this MAGICAL Collection! It was Poetic. It was Romantic. It was Unwearable But when the clothes are this Sublime, Who The Hell Cares!
Inspired By Corot's Gypsy Woman with a Tambourine (Google It!) the Presentation felt as ethereal and effortless as it was Sublimely Technical and Difficult! To go into detail about each outfit would be necessary, but also expansive in the utmost in concern to text! Suffice it to say, every outfit, even the most Overwrought of them, was a Paean to Womanly Art! Josep Font could seamlessly take this collection to Paris for Haute Couture and be as welcome there as any other designer showing, perhaps more so than some!
There was Elaborate Couture detail on the simplest of exits and when things did get Extreme, they were extreme in the most Decadently Wonderful Way! As on Exit No. 11 A titanic Pale Periwinkle blue skirt that had the feeling of a Splendid Duvet about it in it's Naive Peasant-y Floral "Print" that covered it, that upon close inspection, yielded that the floral pattern was in fact, Exactingly Embroidered all over the skirt. MERCIFUL HEAVENS! Exit No. 17 was a Joyful Explosion of Dark Drama handled with Fairy like lightness... a Short Tiered ruffled Strapless affair that could have been from some long ago Ungaro Collection with it's Black Backed Sunflower print and curved Bodice, Splendid!
Exit 34 was the one that really just blew me away... not only for it's Exuberant Fantasy, for it was truly Fantastical, but also that it was one of the outfits that could truly translate into the real world! Mostly, because it was so damn beautiful and had An Haute Couture Grandeur that was Unmistakable! A White Bodice Tea-Length ballgown with a T-shirt bodice DIVINELY embroidered, richly, in Bright Crayola color Flowers that then connected to a White Organza veiled Skirt that was decoratively accented with some Sparkly Floral Rebrodee and underneath the filmy White overskirt bloomed a Micro Garden floral print in the same colours as the Florals on the Bodice... Incandescent Genius!
As this all marched on to the conclusion, A Huge skirted strapless masterpiece with Giant Floral Applique embroideries on the Massive Skirt... every outfit filled one with Wonder, Awe, Glee and Romance! It was An EPIC Collection for Epic Women! There is a Clientele out in this world for such Grand Drama, Closer than you might be willing to believe in fact, And they are going to be transported to the Wonderland that this collection evoked as much as I Was and AM and will be offering up AMEX Black cards to Haul home much of this Precious Booty!
And Lawdy, Chillrens.... I wanna See the closet of the women that is buying these Opulent Works of Wearable Magic! Cus you know it's filled with other Lavish Wonders that the mind can only dare grasp! Fittingly, The Clothes of Font for Delpozo will fit in Quite Nicely!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Delpozo,
Spellbinding. Awe-Inspiring. Transfiguring. Words that are still at a loss to provide proper context to this MAGICAL Collection! It was Poetic. It was Romantic. It was Unwearable But when the clothes are this Sublime, Who The Hell Cares!
Inspired By Corot's Gypsy Woman with a Tambourine (Google It!) the Presentation felt as ethereal and effortless as it was Sublimely Technical and Difficult! To go into detail about each outfit would be necessary, but also expansive in the utmost in concern to text! Suffice it to say, every outfit, even the most Overwrought of them, was a Paean to Womanly Art! Josep Font could seamlessly take this collection to Paris for Haute Couture and be as welcome there as any other designer showing, perhaps more so than some!
There was Elaborate Couture detail on the simplest of exits and when things did get Extreme, they were extreme in the most Decadently Wonderful Way! As on Exit No. 11 A titanic Pale Periwinkle blue skirt that had the feeling of a Splendid Duvet about it in it's Naive Peasant-y Floral "Print" that covered it, that upon close inspection, yielded that the floral pattern was in fact, Exactingly Embroidered all over the skirt. MERCIFUL HEAVENS! Exit No. 17 was a Joyful Explosion of Dark Drama handled with Fairy like lightness... a Short Tiered ruffled Strapless affair that could have been from some long ago Ungaro Collection with it's Black Backed Sunflower print and curved Bodice, Splendid!
Exit 34 was the one that really just blew me away... not only for it's Exuberant Fantasy, for it was truly Fantastical, but also that it was one of the outfits that could truly translate into the real world! Mostly, because it was so damn beautiful and had An Haute Couture Grandeur that was Unmistakable! A White Bodice Tea-Length ballgown with a T-shirt bodice DIVINELY embroidered, richly, in Bright Crayola color Flowers that then connected to a White Organza veiled Skirt that was decoratively accented with some Sparkly Floral Rebrodee and underneath the filmy White overskirt bloomed a Micro Garden floral print in the same colours as the Florals on the Bodice... Incandescent Genius!
As this all marched on to the conclusion, A Huge skirted strapless masterpiece with Giant Floral Applique embroideries on the Massive Skirt... every outfit filled one with Wonder, Awe, Glee and Romance! It was An EPIC Collection for Epic Women! There is a Clientele out in this world for such Grand Drama, Closer than you might be willing to believe in fact, And they are going to be transported to the Wonderland that this collection evoked as much as I Was and AM and will be offering up AMEX Black cards to Haul home much of this Precious Booty!
And Lawdy, Chillrens.... I wanna See the closet of the women that is buying these Opulent Works of Wearable Magic! Cus you know it's filled with other Lavish Wonders that the mind can only dare grasp! Fittingly, The Clothes of Font for Delpozo will fit in Quite Nicely!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Victoria Beckham.
Sun. 09/08/2013.
Victoria Beckham.
I... I, wanted to be Mesmerized by Victoria Beckham's Signature line...
I wanted to like it more than I did...
I kinda have a soft spot for Mrs. Beckham (She'll always be a little bit "Posh" to me. My Fave!) But...
Why didn't this collection Move me? In places it was Like Lightning... Bright, Electric, Stimulating, Sharp Flash and Bristling Acuity! Those elements when done right were Flat Out Smashing.
I have a Weak spot for Victoria... when she announced she was going into the Fashion business (just like the Olsen Twins) People laughed, some outright Guffawed. I pooh-poohed it along with the rest, what does a halfway talented singer and all the way talented Entertainer (say what you will about the "S" Girls... they Blew your Ass away with their shows and Performances!) Know about HIGH COUTURE! With her first collection she shut my mouth and slapped me across the face! While wobbly... as any first designer foray is want to be... Ms. Victoria proved flawlessly that she knew what it took to make a damn AMAZING Garment. Again and Again she proved herself until she became as respected as a roster of other NY Design talents, and not because of her fame or her Shagadelic Husband!
Here she got it mostly right, even if there was too much a feeling of Narciso Rodriguez running through this collection, it offered a bounty of Instantly wearable pieces and Outfits... The Sportif Ruffle hem Tunics that Proliferated throughout... The Edgy "SWOOSH" Hems, The Athletic Touches. Much conspired to be Crisp and Chic and still come off and as Hauteur!
But as things moved along, those Geometrics seem to get the best of her and wrest this collection out of her control. The Overlapping rectangles looked, at best, Clunky. At Worst, Illogical! They simply confused otherwise Fabulous Garments with Unneeded Fuss! Those Triangles on the other hand... While an Interesting idea and effect... in the end the turned out to be no more really than a Decorative Distraction!
Some Outfits though did make one stand at attention and showed still how great Beckham is as a designer, Exit No. 8 Par Example, was KILLER in it's Modern way of thinking about Graphic... Exit No. 18 a Terrific White sheer front blouse and Brief ruffle hem pencil skirt was one of the Very few outfits that Reconciled those Triangles in a Chic, Effortless way that wasn't fussy or overwrought. Exit No. 19 Also had ENDLESS Appeal in All black with a sheer netting Track Jacket that zipped up the front over a Belted little brief ruffle hem long sleeve button-front shirtdress.... I! DIE! One of the best outfits of the season, Count on it!
SO... where does that leave this collection... somewhere between Heaven and Earth, It's certainly not the best Victoria can do, but it is awfully refreshing to see her capture the current moment in her own way and move beyond her Sculpted Body-Con looks and venture into new Territory... as a first effort, yes it showed a bit too much in the way of Narciso Rodriguez/Vera Wang Influences, that must be Acknowledged, But it also was a Bold, Clear and Confident Walk into the future!
I for one, Chillrens, Even if not entirely Spellbound by this offering, I was Duly Pleased! It's not gonna set the world on fire... but it might be the spark that does!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Victoria Beckham.
I... I, wanted to be Mesmerized by Victoria Beckham's Signature line...
I wanted to like it more than I did...
I kinda have a soft spot for Mrs. Beckham (She'll always be a little bit "Posh" to me. My Fave!) But...
Why didn't this collection Move me? In places it was Like Lightning... Bright, Electric, Stimulating, Sharp Flash and Bristling Acuity! Those elements when done right were Flat Out Smashing.
I have a Weak spot for Victoria... when she announced she was going into the Fashion business (just like the Olsen Twins) People laughed, some outright Guffawed. I pooh-poohed it along with the rest, what does a halfway talented singer and all the way talented Entertainer (say what you will about the "S" Girls... they Blew your Ass away with their shows and Performances!) Know about HIGH COUTURE! With her first collection she shut my mouth and slapped me across the face! While wobbly... as any first designer foray is want to be... Ms. Victoria proved flawlessly that she knew what it took to make a damn AMAZING Garment. Again and Again she proved herself until she became as respected as a roster of other NY Design talents, and not because of her fame or her Shagadelic Husband!
Here she got it mostly right, even if there was too much a feeling of Narciso Rodriguez running through this collection, it offered a bounty of Instantly wearable pieces and Outfits... The Sportif Ruffle hem Tunics that Proliferated throughout... The Edgy "SWOOSH" Hems, The Athletic Touches. Much conspired to be Crisp and Chic and still come off and as Hauteur!
But as things moved along, those Geometrics seem to get the best of her and wrest this collection out of her control. The Overlapping rectangles looked, at best, Clunky. At Worst, Illogical! They simply confused otherwise Fabulous Garments with Unneeded Fuss! Those Triangles on the other hand... While an Interesting idea and effect... in the end the turned out to be no more really than a Decorative Distraction!
Some Outfits though did make one stand at attention and showed still how great Beckham is as a designer, Exit No. 8 Par Example, was KILLER in it's Modern way of thinking about Graphic... Exit No. 18 a Terrific White sheer front blouse and Brief ruffle hem pencil skirt was one of the Very few outfits that Reconciled those Triangles in a Chic, Effortless way that wasn't fussy or overwrought. Exit No. 19 Also had ENDLESS Appeal in All black with a sheer netting Track Jacket that zipped up the front over a Belted little brief ruffle hem long sleeve button-front shirtdress.... I! DIE! One of the best outfits of the season, Count on it!
SO... where does that leave this collection... somewhere between Heaven and Earth, It's certainly not the best Victoria can do, but it is awfully refreshing to see her capture the current moment in her own way and move beyond her Sculpted Body-Con looks and venture into new Territory... as a first effort, yes it showed a bit too much in the way of Narciso Rodriguez/Vera Wang Influences, that must be Acknowledged, But it also was a Bold, Clear and Confident Walk into the future!
I for one, Chillrens, Even if not entirely Spellbound by this offering, I was Duly Pleased! It's not gonna set the world on fire... but it might be the spark that does!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Friday, September 13, 2013
Altuzarra.
Sat. 09/07/2013.
Altuzarra.
Never thought I could possibly say this about a Joseph Altuzarra Collection, but Here I Am Saying It... *Big Inhale*
*Cue Michael Kors Voice...*
"To be quite Honest, I was Underwhelmed."
And Frankly, I was! Which is so odd... because it felt like the past few seasons or so... Joseph could do NO WRONG! His collections were Powerful, Modern, Artistic, Exciting... looking like the New Future of Fashion! Edgy and Urban and Chic all at once... this collection looked like a Stumble rather than a Cofident, Bold Stride forwards.
Much of the Problem lay in the Overly Complex and Tricky construction of some of the garments... (We will talk about those Mistakes of Lame Panne Velvet in Due Time...) However Louche and Smouldering the Incandescent Joan Smalls looked in Exit No. 1, Upon closer inspection that outfit just was too much going on in the skirt... up top it was Sensual, Relaxed, Aching with Possibility... then the skirt... A Jumble of Ideas all in one... the execution was there just the idea was flawed from the Inception! It wasn't Bad... It wasn't even Mediocre. it was Actually GOOD. It just was too many ideas in one piece of clothing all vying for attention! And why did it bear repeating immediately afterwards?
As the show continued it was one Increasingly Tricky AND Tricked out outfit after another, one thing being abundantly clear... even when he is off... Joseph's Clothes demand one's attention and even if you're not on board with it, you simply cannot look away or fail to be impressed at the effort put into these outfits and the Incredibly Agile mind at play here. His Wizardry at Conceptualizing new ways of looking at clothes is Unmatched, and that agility can sometimes be the Exact thing that does one in!
By Exit No. 8 and No. 9 things looked to be on a definite upswing. Two Totally Precise and Perfect Exits. The Poncho-like Cape tops were the Eptiome of Of-The-Minute Chic and Creativity! From that moment of Classical Modernity, things moved fast, Never did the collection Alight on any one idea for too long but revisited certain motifs off and on... the side ties skirts... the cropped jacket... the Utterly INEXPLICABLE Draping at the Waist on skirts...
To That bit of design Suicide... Tell Us, Joseph... Do you know a lot of girls who are desperate to look like Kangaroos with a Whorl of draping at their waists? For it certainly looks like an Artful Kanga Pocket in Lame Panne Velvet... There was nothing about that that is going to ever look fashionable... looking like you have a Pouch at the one area of your body you want to look the Tautest and Flattest! It wasn't a good look, It's execution was to be admired for daring, but Sadly failed to Flatter!
Well... Two Steps Forward, One Step Back. That feels like the Trajectory Altuzarra followed after some INSANELY Instant Cool Collections... this one had the Chill Factor, Just not the Clothes to back it up! In the Monde de Mode... Stumbles along the path to greatness are nothing new and altogether inevitable, Chillrens...
It's How you come back from such stumbles (Are You Listening, Jason Wu) That Makes the Difference!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Altuzarra.
Never thought I could possibly say this about a Joseph Altuzarra Collection, but Here I Am Saying It... *Big Inhale*
*Cue Michael Kors Voice...*
"To be quite Honest, I was Underwhelmed."
And Frankly, I was! Which is so odd... because it felt like the past few seasons or so... Joseph could do NO WRONG! His collections were Powerful, Modern, Artistic, Exciting... looking like the New Future of Fashion! Edgy and Urban and Chic all at once... this collection looked like a Stumble rather than a Cofident, Bold Stride forwards.
Much of the Problem lay in the Overly Complex and Tricky construction of some of the garments... (We will talk about those Mistakes of Lame Panne Velvet in Due Time...) However Louche and Smouldering the Incandescent Joan Smalls looked in Exit No. 1, Upon closer inspection that outfit just was too much going on in the skirt... up top it was Sensual, Relaxed, Aching with Possibility... then the skirt... A Jumble of Ideas all in one... the execution was there just the idea was flawed from the Inception! It wasn't Bad... It wasn't even Mediocre. it was Actually GOOD. It just was too many ideas in one piece of clothing all vying for attention! And why did it bear repeating immediately afterwards?
As the show continued it was one Increasingly Tricky AND Tricked out outfit after another, one thing being abundantly clear... even when he is off... Joseph's Clothes demand one's attention and even if you're not on board with it, you simply cannot look away or fail to be impressed at the effort put into these outfits and the Incredibly Agile mind at play here. His Wizardry at Conceptualizing new ways of looking at clothes is Unmatched, and that agility can sometimes be the Exact thing that does one in!
By Exit No. 8 and No. 9 things looked to be on a definite upswing. Two Totally Precise and Perfect Exits. The Poncho-like Cape tops were the Eptiome of Of-The-Minute Chic and Creativity! From that moment of Classical Modernity, things moved fast, Never did the collection Alight on any one idea for too long but revisited certain motifs off and on... the side ties skirts... the cropped jacket... the Utterly INEXPLICABLE Draping at the Waist on skirts...
To That bit of design Suicide... Tell Us, Joseph... Do you know a lot of girls who are desperate to look like Kangaroos with a Whorl of draping at their waists? For it certainly looks like an Artful Kanga Pocket in Lame Panne Velvet... There was nothing about that that is going to ever look fashionable... looking like you have a Pouch at the one area of your body you want to look the Tautest and Flattest! It wasn't a good look, It's execution was to be admired for daring, but Sadly failed to Flatter!
Well... Two Steps Forward, One Step Back. That feels like the Trajectory Altuzarra followed after some INSANELY Instant Cool Collections... this one had the Chill Factor, Just not the Clothes to back it up! In the Monde de Mode... Stumbles along the path to greatness are nothing new and altogether inevitable, Chillrens...
It's How you come back from such stumbles (Are You Listening, Jason Wu) That Makes the Difference!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Monique L'Huillier.
Sat. 09/07/2013.
Monique L'Huillier.
One thing is Patently Obvious in this collection... Ms. L'Huillier KNOWS how to cut a Stunning evening gown! Her Spring 2014 Collection was Full of liquid swaths of Lace and Crepe and Chiffon and Organza and Gazar all in VERY Bold Hothouse colours! From Shocking Fuschia Pink to Searing Tangerine The colours inspired Spring Dreams and Summer Fantasies Galore... but L'Huillier tempered these with White and Nude and Pale Peach and Soft Coral, all of which conspired to make a Pretty and Desirable collection! L'Huillier's Near Couture Standards of Construction don't hurt Either, Mind You!
One Sticking Point. Just like all the designers who have made their name on their Eveningwear Game in this arena... Badgley Mischka, Douglass Hannant, Even Elie Saab... The question of just how Fascinating can a collection devoted TOTALLY to Evening Be!?!?! The Answer, Not Very at all! It would do these designers to really invest in some Assistants that can help them hone in on what their style can be when translated into Day looks so that it still has the hallmark of the designer but is not one Cocktail Frock or Ballgown after another... which Quickly becomes Tiresome and Rote. And Unfortunately, as Decidedly beautiful as all that traipsed down L'Huillier's runway... even with a tight edit, it grew Redundant!
Within saying that, Much Kudos to the pieces that were shown, for much was Stunning and some of the Quieter Moments were the real Stars! Like Exit No. 3... A simple sleeveless White Sheath with a Jewel neck that was Figure Hugging in all the best senses of the term had just a Dazzle of Embroidery at the top and could function for day easily... and switch hit for night with as much Competence! An Absolutely MASTERFUL Coral Jumper with White cuffs and A Jeweled Collar at Exit No. 10 made My heart leap! So Chic and a very Modern twist to a day/evening outfit! Exit No. 11 had "WANT" Written all over it as well!
Some of the evening gowns were True Breath Stealers... Exit No. 24... A Strapless Figured Gazar Ballgown in Deep Orange shot with Pink and tones of Surface Interest! Exit No. 25... A Coral Pink WOW in Lace, Chiffon and Crepe... Perhaps the best gown in the collection! And Exit No. 29... A truly Special piece in the Palest Nude with Delicate Sprays of Floral embroidery that had an almost Asian Feel to it... MAGICAL!
This collection was one of Monique's Best efforts in a couple seasons and was Sparkling with Frivolity and Sensuality! Now if she could turn that focus onto some serious Daywear, the recipe would be complete!
But In the end, Chillrens... Sometimes it's better to succeed at what your good at and not make a fool of oneself at what one is not good at... and Monique L'Huillier is VERY, VERY Good at Evening!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Monique L'Huillier.
One thing is Patently Obvious in this collection... Ms. L'Huillier KNOWS how to cut a Stunning evening gown! Her Spring 2014 Collection was Full of liquid swaths of Lace and Crepe and Chiffon and Organza and Gazar all in VERY Bold Hothouse colours! From Shocking Fuschia Pink to Searing Tangerine The colours inspired Spring Dreams and Summer Fantasies Galore... but L'Huillier tempered these with White and Nude and Pale Peach and Soft Coral, all of which conspired to make a Pretty and Desirable collection! L'Huillier's Near Couture Standards of Construction don't hurt Either, Mind You!
One Sticking Point. Just like all the designers who have made their name on their Eveningwear Game in this arena... Badgley Mischka, Douglass Hannant, Even Elie Saab... The question of just how Fascinating can a collection devoted TOTALLY to Evening Be!?!?! The Answer, Not Very at all! It would do these designers to really invest in some Assistants that can help them hone in on what their style can be when translated into Day looks so that it still has the hallmark of the designer but is not one Cocktail Frock or Ballgown after another... which Quickly becomes Tiresome and Rote. And Unfortunately, as Decidedly beautiful as all that traipsed down L'Huillier's runway... even with a tight edit, it grew Redundant!
Within saying that, Much Kudos to the pieces that were shown, for much was Stunning and some of the Quieter Moments were the real Stars! Like Exit No. 3... A simple sleeveless White Sheath with a Jewel neck that was Figure Hugging in all the best senses of the term had just a Dazzle of Embroidery at the top and could function for day easily... and switch hit for night with as much Competence! An Absolutely MASTERFUL Coral Jumper with White cuffs and A Jeweled Collar at Exit No. 10 made My heart leap! So Chic and a very Modern twist to a day/evening outfit! Exit No. 11 had "WANT" Written all over it as well!
Some of the evening gowns were True Breath Stealers... Exit No. 24... A Strapless Figured Gazar Ballgown in Deep Orange shot with Pink and tones of Surface Interest! Exit No. 25... A Coral Pink WOW in Lace, Chiffon and Crepe... Perhaps the best gown in the collection! And Exit No. 29... A truly Special piece in the Palest Nude with Delicate Sprays of Floral embroidery that had an almost Asian Feel to it... MAGICAL!
This collection was one of Monique's Best efforts in a couple seasons and was Sparkling with Frivolity and Sensuality! Now if she could turn that focus onto some serious Daywear, the recipe would be complete!
But In the end, Chillrens... Sometimes it's better to succeed at what your good at and not make a fool of oneself at what one is not good at... and Monique L'Huillier is VERY, VERY Good at Evening!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Alexander Wang.
Sat. 09/07/2013
Alexander Wang.
It doesn't get any cooler it would seem than Alexander Wang. Does It? His Collection Sat. was one of High-Spirited Fun and Good-Natured Humour! Deciding to indulge in a bit of Logomania (which I, for one, would FIRMLY love to see the Designers who started that trend reconnect with, Chanel, Versace, Gucci, et. al.) which in Wang's hands was an assured and funny take on the whole idea.
Even with all the funny, the clothes lost none of the elemental Cool that makes a Wang show so Desirable to watch and so Coveted to be at! I hope one day to be invited, even if it's like 27th row... just to feel the energy of this kind of Wunderkind would be Life-Affirming! Opening up with a Calibrated view on Brief, with some of the Shortest of the Short hemlines so far this NYFW... the hems didn't come off Trampy or even, by the Pervailing feeling of Hijinx, Campy. What they did come off were Punishingly Cool. You have to have your body SO Right to pull these Micro Brief hems off, with Perfectly toned and Lithe limbs and of course a Taut and Sleek midsection! Not for the faint of heart, or body! In the first 3 exits, Wang pulled off something of a Mullet Idea Alchemy... Business Up Top, Party Down Below! Mainly because he paired the teeny hemlines with rather strict, Sober Tailored pieces on top that gave a Tougher vibe than the skirts were giving off. Yin-Yang... Confident.
Exit No. 7 was of quiet interest too... being that it was a little Mod-ish Baby doll dress with a Mock neck cut out of a Stiffened Men's Shirting material. It was Smoulderingly Sexy, but so imbued with Effortless Ease! Then the Two "Parental Advisory" Tops were High Fun as were the long gloves with Wang's Name on them! Then in the Micro Houndstooth pieces that accompanied, we find Quietly and Quixotically "Alexander Wang" Spelled out in the pattern of the Fabric! CHEEKY MONKEY! More Overt, Less Subtle to follow in his name literally Spelled out on the fabric looking like a print. And the two tops that looked like mesh was actually his name in an openwork crochet!
Though it was most Laugh out Loud Audacious and Awesome in the laser Cut leather pieces that for some, were also feats of technical Brilliance. Mainly, those Stitched Panel Pleated Skirts and Dresses that ended the show where the pleats opened up to reveal The Cutwork leather behind them... INGENIEUX!
There was tons else to mention... The Killer Shoes, The Dresses and Skirts Made out of Strips of Letter Stenciled Leather sewn together to form his name... The Denim Stitched trio from Exit's No. 32-34 on Julia Nobis, Kasia Struss and Caroline Brasch Nielsen that were perhaps the Most Winning pieces of the show! But it was the Logomania that won out and gave us all a little lift of much needed levity and surprise! Only someone so Serious about his work as Wang is could also so joyfully Tongue-In-Cheek poke a little fun at the fashion machine and also himself and make it still the Pinnacle of Chill!
Of the many Things that Wang is so Successful at, This Ability to Be Funny and Fierce all in the same Gesture is one of his best. We haven't seen this side before... I for one, Chillrens, Hope it becomes one more of the Wang Codes and Signatures to add to the panoply of Tropes he already has!
It would be A Great Happiness indeed to see some Humour Injected back into fashion, Don't You Think?!?!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Alexander Wang.
It doesn't get any cooler it would seem than Alexander Wang. Does It? His Collection Sat. was one of High-Spirited Fun and Good-Natured Humour! Deciding to indulge in a bit of Logomania (which I, for one, would FIRMLY love to see the Designers who started that trend reconnect with, Chanel, Versace, Gucci, et. al.) which in Wang's hands was an assured and funny take on the whole idea.
Even with all the funny, the clothes lost none of the elemental Cool that makes a Wang show so Desirable to watch and so Coveted to be at! I hope one day to be invited, even if it's like 27th row... just to feel the energy of this kind of Wunderkind would be Life-Affirming! Opening up with a Calibrated view on Brief, with some of the Shortest of the Short hemlines so far this NYFW... the hems didn't come off Trampy or even, by the Pervailing feeling of Hijinx, Campy. What they did come off were Punishingly Cool. You have to have your body SO Right to pull these Micro Brief hems off, with Perfectly toned and Lithe limbs and of course a Taut and Sleek midsection! Not for the faint of heart, or body! In the first 3 exits, Wang pulled off something of a Mullet Idea Alchemy... Business Up Top, Party Down Below! Mainly because he paired the teeny hemlines with rather strict, Sober Tailored pieces on top that gave a Tougher vibe than the skirts were giving off. Yin-Yang... Confident.
Exit No. 7 was of quiet interest too... being that it was a little Mod-ish Baby doll dress with a Mock neck cut out of a Stiffened Men's Shirting material. It was Smoulderingly Sexy, but so imbued with Effortless Ease! Then the Two "Parental Advisory" Tops were High Fun as were the long gloves with Wang's Name on them! Then in the Micro Houndstooth pieces that accompanied, we find Quietly and Quixotically "Alexander Wang" Spelled out in the pattern of the Fabric! CHEEKY MONKEY! More Overt, Less Subtle to follow in his name literally Spelled out on the fabric looking like a print. And the two tops that looked like mesh was actually his name in an openwork crochet!
Though it was most Laugh out Loud Audacious and Awesome in the laser Cut leather pieces that for some, were also feats of technical Brilliance. Mainly, those Stitched Panel Pleated Skirts and Dresses that ended the show where the pleats opened up to reveal The Cutwork leather behind them... INGENIEUX!
There was tons else to mention... The Killer Shoes, The Dresses and Skirts Made out of Strips of Letter Stenciled Leather sewn together to form his name... The Denim Stitched trio from Exit's No. 32-34 on Julia Nobis, Kasia Struss and Caroline Brasch Nielsen that were perhaps the Most Winning pieces of the show! But it was the Logomania that won out and gave us all a little lift of much needed levity and surprise! Only someone so Serious about his work as Wang is could also so joyfully Tongue-In-Cheek poke a little fun at the fashion machine and also himself and make it still the Pinnacle of Chill!
Of the many Things that Wang is so Successful at, This Ability to Be Funny and Fierce all in the same Gesture is one of his best. We haven't seen this side before... I for one, Chillrens, Hope it becomes one more of the Wang Codes and Signatures to add to the panoply of Tropes he already has!
It would be A Great Happiness indeed to see some Humour Injected back into fashion, Don't You Think?!?!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Thursday, September 12, 2013
Christian Siriano.
Sat. 09/07/2013.
Christian Siriano.
Who would have thought that the Bratty but Lovable and STUPENDOUSLY Talented Young Lion of "Project Runway" Season 4 (And Winner of the season) Would transform as he has in his Aesthetic and Style. Many of us wanted him to stay the Boy/Man/Child he was of the Show and Stick to his Brilliant McQueen/Westwood influenced vision. But Fashion, Moves Dizzyingly and Remarkably fast now. And we also must remember, Lee Alex is, Sadly, Dead and Gone. Sarah Burton has moved on, and I think those of us who loved all the "Hot Tranny Mess" of it all and "Ferocia Coutura" Side of Mr. Siriano need to take a Breath and Behold the beauty of what is being designed in the Now.... None other than the Kaiser, The King, The Great One himself, Karl Lagerfeld has been oft fond of saying, "Those Who Glorify Their Past Make Their Present Secondhand!" PREACH!
So, it was with a Critical eye that I viewed the Christian Siriano show and even though I was not prepared fully to Bury the past the collection forced me to in a matter of moments! It was, Joyful! Exuberant! And perhaps even more Amazing, Siriano's most Mature and Solid Collection Yet! To be honest... in the past there have been some Wobbly collections... either suffering from Garish Over-Design or Imagination-less Under-Design! A happy medium was Betwixt and Between!
However... An assurance and confidence is evident in the clothes... someone whom has hit their stride and knows who and what he is as a fashion designer... so even though he can make a absolutely Gargantuan Ballgown that will steal your breath away... it's not always necessary for Siriano to do that anymore... If Ever again. That was the Blush of Youth. This is an Adult voice we hear now.
Inspired by "Isla Mujeres" The "Island of Women" from his trip to Mexico, Siriano brought us Hot Weather Flower Prints from the Steamy South! The Opening Passage of overblown flower prints was all the more fresh and new when one realized that the flowers were printed on a Matelasse fabric which gave a subtle shimmery texture to the florals! After that at Exit No. 8 one of the prettiest dresses of the entire season... a Tangerine Asymmetric Shift dress that just melted over the body like Gelato!
Next Major Moment... A Section of Exits in a Black and White Zig-Zag that upon closer inspection was a print of the materials used to make the Handwoven Baskets Mexico done in a zig-zag.! it was Quite unexpected and worked like a dream!
With Exit No. 19... we Glimpsed that special thing about Siriano's work that Grasps us by the hand and carries us away to a Neverland of Beauty. The dress was an Embroiderer's NIGHTMARE But a Client's Dream Realized! It was so Intricate and Lavish... I dare say it bought to mind a Little bit of a Chanel/Lesage Moment, I will not lie! And the Colours... TO LIVE FOR! The next Pieces Shaggily Embroidered with Feather Plumes were Gaudily Magnificent... Please! I LOVE an Over-The-Top Feather Moment! DON'T YOU?!?!?
Prettiness Reigned all the way to the end of the show and Christian finished with a Guava Stunner and a Cream Dream! One quibble I Need to address.. instead of grouping all the Colour Sections pieces together... all Gauva, All Cream, All Citron Green... it would give the eye more relief if He broke them up and mixed the edit a little. Instead of them all coming out one Pinkish outfit after another... throw in one of the Cream or Citron outfits then back to the Guava... Just an Idea!
I truly enjoyed this collection. it was a Strong, Confident, Artistic and Easily wearable collection without ringing as too Commercial! It was special enough to be Editorial but Comprehensible enough for the customer to not be afraid of it!
All in All Chillrens... A Fine Job Indeed!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Christian Siriano.
Who would have thought that the Bratty but Lovable and STUPENDOUSLY Talented Young Lion of "Project Runway" Season 4 (And Winner of the season) Would transform as he has in his Aesthetic and Style. Many of us wanted him to stay the Boy/Man/Child he was of the Show and Stick to his Brilliant McQueen/Westwood influenced vision. But Fashion, Moves Dizzyingly and Remarkably fast now. And we also must remember, Lee Alex is, Sadly, Dead and Gone. Sarah Burton has moved on, and I think those of us who loved all the "Hot Tranny Mess" of it all and "Ferocia Coutura" Side of Mr. Siriano need to take a Breath and Behold the beauty of what is being designed in the Now.... None other than the Kaiser, The King, The Great One himself, Karl Lagerfeld has been oft fond of saying, "Those Who Glorify Their Past Make Their Present Secondhand!" PREACH!
So, it was with a Critical eye that I viewed the Christian Siriano show and even though I was not prepared fully to Bury the past the collection forced me to in a matter of moments! It was, Joyful! Exuberant! And perhaps even more Amazing, Siriano's most Mature and Solid Collection Yet! To be honest... in the past there have been some Wobbly collections... either suffering from Garish Over-Design or Imagination-less Under-Design! A happy medium was Betwixt and Between!
However... An assurance and confidence is evident in the clothes... someone whom has hit their stride and knows who and what he is as a fashion designer... so even though he can make a absolutely Gargantuan Ballgown that will steal your breath away... it's not always necessary for Siriano to do that anymore... If Ever again. That was the Blush of Youth. This is an Adult voice we hear now.
Inspired by "Isla Mujeres" The "Island of Women" from his trip to Mexico, Siriano brought us Hot Weather Flower Prints from the Steamy South! The Opening Passage of overblown flower prints was all the more fresh and new when one realized that the flowers were printed on a Matelasse fabric which gave a subtle shimmery texture to the florals! After that at Exit No. 8 one of the prettiest dresses of the entire season... a Tangerine Asymmetric Shift dress that just melted over the body like Gelato!
Next Major Moment... A Section of Exits in a Black and White Zig-Zag that upon closer inspection was a print of the materials used to make the Handwoven Baskets Mexico done in a zig-zag.! it was Quite unexpected and worked like a dream!
With Exit No. 19... we Glimpsed that special thing about Siriano's work that Grasps us by the hand and carries us away to a Neverland of Beauty. The dress was an Embroiderer's NIGHTMARE But a Client's Dream Realized! It was so Intricate and Lavish... I dare say it bought to mind a Little bit of a Chanel/Lesage Moment, I will not lie! And the Colours... TO LIVE FOR! The next Pieces Shaggily Embroidered with Feather Plumes were Gaudily Magnificent... Please! I LOVE an Over-The-Top Feather Moment! DON'T YOU?!?!?
Prettiness Reigned all the way to the end of the show and Christian finished with a Guava Stunner and a Cream Dream! One quibble I Need to address.. instead of grouping all the Colour Sections pieces together... all Gauva, All Cream, All Citron Green... it would give the eye more relief if He broke them up and mixed the edit a little. Instead of them all coming out one Pinkish outfit after another... throw in one of the Cream or Citron outfits then back to the Guava... Just an Idea!
I truly enjoyed this collection. it was a Strong, Confident, Artistic and Easily wearable collection without ringing as too Commercial! It was special enough to be Editorial but Comprehensible enough for the customer to not be afraid of it!
All in All Chillrens... A Fine Job Indeed!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Herve Leger By Max Azria.
Sat. 09/07/2013.
Herve Leger By Max Azria.
Oh Dear Lord. What a Mess. What a Tragic, Tragic Mess. Incomprehensible in the extreme, It was nearly impossible to tell exactly what the Herve Leger collection was about? Was it about Zippers? Demi-Corsets? Flounced Hems? Strange Caterpillar like fringe just Stuck onto dresses? Mexico? Polynesia???? I give up!
Some of those opening zippered looks COULD have been tolerable had they not been so Fastidiously TRICKY! Just more Zips on those Garments than Michael Jackson kitted out in S/M Wear! HEE-HEE! WHOO! No. It just did not work. And then, the Lacy, Spacy cutout leather and subsequent prints that were meant to call to mind Polynesian Body Art? Say Wha-Huh? I hate being so dreadful, but this collection FAILED! On Every Level and In Every Way... I do need to mention... Exits 26-28... what was with the Strange Pelmets of Fringe? they looked like the dresses had sported Multiple Moustaches! The Stretched the tenuous limit of Credulity!
Herve Leger was once an Iconic Label, Giving woman Bombshell, Glamour Goddess Curves and Attitude. Taming the most wayward figure and enhancing it to Va-Va-Va-Voom Perfection! Now... in Max and Lubov's hands it has become a Silly, Useless Joke. They haven't the Sense of Sexuality that Hever LeRoux did and DOES, Nor his sense of Cut and of the Couture (Remember, Herve LeRoux was Karl's Assistant when he was hired in at Chanel and his co-conspirator for those early Collections... so the man KNOWS how to Craft a Garment... which is why Carolina Herrera keeps him like a Gigolo!)
I don't expect that things will improve much, their namesake collection is Floundering Tragically as it is... even though it sells, it does not look like anything but Detritus strewn together to make something out of Panic and Necessity!
And that Chillrens... Is Not what makes Fashion!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Herve Leger By Max Azria.
Oh Dear Lord. What a Mess. What a Tragic, Tragic Mess. Incomprehensible in the extreme, It was nearly impossible to tell exactly what the Herve Leger collection was about? Was it about Zippers? Demi-Corsets? Flounced Hems? Strange Caterpillar like fringe just Stuck onto dresses? Mexico? Polynesia???? I give up!
Some of those opening zippered looks COULD have been tolerable had they not been so Fastidiously TRICKY! Just more Zips on those Garments than Michael Jackson kitted out in S/M Wear! HEE-HEE! WHOO! No. It just did not work. And then, the Lacy, Spacy cutout leather and subsequent prints that were meant to call to mind Polynesian Body Art? Say Wha-Huh? I hate being so dreadful, but this collection FAILED! On Every Level and In Every Way... I do need to mention... Exits 26-28... what was with the Strange Pelmets of Fringe? they looked like the dresses had sported Multiple Moustaches! The Stretched the tenuous limit of Credulity!
Herve Leger was once an Iconic Label, Giving woman Bombshell, Glamour Goddess Curves and Attitude. Taming the most wayward figure and enhancing it to Va-Va-Va-Voom Perfection! Now... in Max and Lubov's hands it has become a Silly, Useless Joke. They haven't the Sense of Sexuality that Hever LeRoux did and DOES, Nor his sense of Cut and of the Couture (Remember, Herve LeRoux was Karl's Assistant when he was hired in at Chanel and his co-conspirator for those early Collections... so the man KNOWS how to Craft a Garment... which is why Carolina Herrera keeps him like a Gigolo!)
I don't expect that things will improve much, their namesake collection is Floundering Tragically as it is... even though it sells, it does not look like anything but Detritus strewn together to make something out of Panic and Necessity!
And that Chillrens... Is Not what makes Fashion!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Kenneth Cole New York Collection.
Sat. 09/07/2013.
Kenneth Cole New York Collection.
Kenneth Cole has been in business for 30+ Years. As a Cobbler, for all of that time and for at least the last almost 20 a designer of contemporary modern Sportswear! He some years ago in the early 2000's presented a runway collection for a few seasons and the suddenly disappeared. How Odd it is to Youtube those older collections and see what an incredibly different world the Fashion Game was. Kenneth has, Much as the world has, Changed since those early days of the New Millennium. His shoes are still Highly Successful for his business and I particularly am Addicted his Men's Shoes And Love his Cool, Urban Luxe approach to Sportswear.
This collection, His Second Runway presentation for the relaunch of his Luxed-Up Urban Sportswear hearkened back to the somewhat less than auspicious moment of Hip-Hop Luxe that Tommy Hilfiger so Skillfully Manipulated into a Billion-Dollar success story, but has now Abandoned in his efforts to become the New Ralph Lauren (He may well succeed in such endeavours!) But this was a kind Racy, Tongue-Firmly-In-Cheek Variant on that idea. The old codes of the Hip-Hop street luxe in the hands and on the bodies of the New Hip-Hop Elite has turned into the most Garish and Outlandish form of Label Whore-ism this side of Nouveau Riche of that same era who Bandied about Interlocking C's, G's and Medusa Heads on everything from Handbags to Shoes to Panties! Now that the Nouveau Riche of that era have become the Regime Ancien of this era... it is up to the new guard to take the elements of the past and enlarge them for a more Disjointed future! The Riche have moved on to be even MORE Riche and now the halls of Luxury are so Gilded that one could suffocate under the Excess!
So, it was Divinely refreshing to see this take on the heady fun of that era and make it the utmost in Modernity. Cole called it Harlem Chic, and is reworking the icons of a primarily Black/Afro-American Style. The collection did a masterful job of Being truly Of-The-Minute in it's Luxe Approach to Sportswear that has reached something of a Zenith in these Modern Fashion times, but remained Cheeky and Delightfully Subverse in it's throwback to another time appeal!
Witness Exit No.2... A Mash-up of old and new... Track jacket in buttery luxe leather with Snakeskin insets! over Shimmery Track Pants. Also in Snake! GENIUS! Exit No. 8 was A Killer mix of the truly sporty in the sense of looking like an activewear dress with a glistening Anorak on top. It gave Awfully good Sportif/Chic! Exit No. 10 was a Hybrid of the most successful order, A Green and Black tribal print crunchy Nylon zip-front Utility coat slimmed into Jacket made sportier still with it's Elastic waist and matching skirt could easily go to the office as to the middle of Soho on a Friday Evening! It was one of my Favorite pieces of the entire Spring 2014 season yet!
Some of the best pieces were in what APPEARED to be Snakeskin, Shimmering with it's Glistening Leathery shine, but was actually Intricately worked Paillettes in a Snakeskin pattern. Simply BRILLIANT! The Look and Luxe of Snakeskin without the Snake!
It was Fresh, It had a P-O-V all it's own and was Surprisingly easy to wear once the clothes are disassembled and taken as individual pieces! The last thing to note... How GOOD the cut were on these clothes. They hadn't one Sloppy, Shabbily constructed item in the mix. Which proves to me at least, that Kenneth is definitely looking for these pieces to be of Quality and to LAST.
So, Chillrens... Maybe Mr. Cole is here to Stay on the NY fashion stage and become one of the New/Old Power Players in Ready-To-Wear. I am all for the Kenneth Cole reign to begin!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Kenneth Cole New York Collection.
Kenneth Cole has been in business for 30+ Years. As a Cobbler, for all of that time and for at least the last almost 20 a designer of contemporary modern Sportswear! He some years ago in the early 2000's presented a runway collection for a few seasons and the suddenly disappeared. How Odd it is to Youtube those older collections and see what an incredibly different world the Fashion Game was. Kenneth has, Much as the world has, Changed since those early days of the New Millennium. His shoes are still Highly Successful for his business and I particularly am Addicted his Men's Shoes And Love his Cool, Urban Luxe approach to Sportswear.
This collection, His Second Runway presentation for the relaunch of his Luxed-Up Urban Sportswear hearkened back to the somewhat less than auspicious moment of Hip-Hop Luxe that Tommy Hilfiger so Skillfully Manipulated into a Billion-Dollar success story, but has now Abandoned in his efforts to become the New Ralph Lauren (He may well succeed in such endeavours!) But this was a kind Racy, Tongue-Firmly-In-Cheek Variant on that idea. The old codes of the Hip-Hop street luxe in the hands and on the bodies of the New Hip-Hop Elite has turned into the most Garish and Outlandish form of Label Whore-ism this side of Nouveau Riche of that same era who Bandied about Interlocking C's, G's and Medusa Heads on everything from Handbags to Shoes to Panties! Now that the Nouveau Riche of that era have become the Regime Ancien of this era... it is up to the new guard to take the elements of the past and enlarge them for a more Disjointed future! The Riche have moved on to be even MORE Riche and now the halls of Luxury are so Gilded that one could suffocate under the Excess!
So, it was Divinely refreshing to see this take on the heady fun of that era and make it the utmost in Modernity. Cole called it Harlem Chic, and is reworking the icons of a primarily Black/Afro-American Style. The collection did a masterful job of Being truly Of-The-Minute in it's Luxe Approach to Sportswear that has reached something of a Zenith in these Modern Fashion times, but remained Cheeky and Delightfully Subverse in it's throwback to another time appeal!
Witness Exit No.2... A Mash-up of old and new... Track jacket in buttery luxe leather with Snakeskin insets! over Shimmery Track Pants. Also in Snake! GENIUS! Exit No. 8 was A Killer mix of the truly sporty in the sense of looking like an activewear dress with a glistening Anorak on top. It gave Awfully good Sportif/Chic! Exit No. 10 was a Hybrid of the most successful order, A Green and Black tribal print crunchy Nylon zip-front Utility coat slimmed into Jacket made sportier still with it's Elastic waist and matching skirt could easily go to the office as to the middle of Soho on a Friday Evening! It was one of my Favorite pieces of the entire Spring 2014 season yet!
Some of the best pieces were in what APPEARED to be Snakeskin, Shimmering with it's Glistening Leathery shine, but was actually Intricately worked Paillettes in a Snakeskin pattern. Simply BRILLIANT! The Look and Luxe of Snakeskin without the Snake!
It was Fresh, It had a P-O-V all it's own and was Surprisingly easy to wear once the clothes are disassembled and taken as individual pieces! The last thing to note... How GOOD the cut were on these clothes. They hadn't one Sloppy, Shabbily constructed item in the mix. Which proves to me at least, that Kenneth is definitely looking for these pieces to be of Quality and to LAST.
So, Chillrens... Maybe Mr. Cole is here to Stay on the NY fashion stage and become one of the New/Old Power Players in Ready-To-Wear. I am all for the Kenneth Cole reign to begin!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Wednesday, September 11, 2013
Prabal Gurung.
Sat. 09/07/2013.
Prabal Gurung.
Sublime Contradictions Abound to Describe this Smashing Collection from Prabal Gurung for Spring 2014!
Clinical Extravagance!
Precision Exuberance!
Reserved Ostentation!
Contained Audaciousness!
All Fit in the weird way they sound and the weird Juxtapositions of the collection Prabal Showed. Even in it's most Lurid Moments there was a Iron Grip of Taut Control running through the collection, which gave it the kind of Severity of B/D Or S/M but of the most Glamourous Level! Ondria Hardin opened the show in a Clinically Precise White outfit that should have looked nothing more so than Anodyne, but was simmering with a Taut Ascetic Sensuality that bordered slightly on the Fetishistic! The Lineup that followed featured Stark Snow White with touches of Powder Puff Pastels or Exaggerated Prints Skewing Sweet Only in their Coloration, Certainly not in Attitude! Exit No. 7 On Goddess Sasha Luss is one of the Most Distractingly Pretty Outfits all season! Pure Female Charm,
The collection was inspired by Marilyn Monroe and as Prabal Said, Preserving Beauty. These lasses were like fragile One-Of-A-Kind Figurines in the most Delicate Porcelain, Meant to be admired, But not ever engaged... Look, Never Touch! There was a Sinister, COLD Remove to these ladies that Channeled not so much Dior (Raf WISHES He Could Design like this!) but more Acurately, Miuccia Prada! Like the girls were far too aware of their own Devastating Preciousness and Onanistically Flaunted it with no hope of ever letting anything Sully their Wicked Perfection, Thusly, this is why they were behind plastic. Fantasy Objets That Reveled in their Ethereal Distance!
The Marilyn Idea was well played... Was there ever anyone who was more aware, So Keenly Aware, of her own power of sex, that she wielded it like a Fencer's Epee! She, not the men in her life, SHE Chose whom to give herself too, otherwise she was A Promise and A Tease... to the men around her and the millions who lusted after her! And the Psychology of this collection brought all that Fruit to bear in the most Scandalous Way! It felt Punishing. Merciless. Sociopathic even! Completely Devoid of the essential emotion that would have warmed these Glacial Beauties... And that made it ALL THE MORE SO INCREDIBLE!
To go on picking out the Ephemera of each outfit would Enlighten the Mystery of this Spellbinding Collection too much, Suffice it to say... Exit No. 15... WHOA, MOMMA! That one, That's one for the Hall of Fame! Wickedly Fabulous!
Prabal Made me a Devout Follower this Season... I am praying at the Temple of Gurung Now, Chillrens... And I know I will Be Dreaming of Marilyn Tonight as the Worshipful Parishioner I have become.
Praise Be To Prabal Gurung! In Nomine Patris et Filli et Spiritus Sancti! Can I Get A AMEN!?!?
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Prabal Gurung.
Sublime Contradictions Abound to Describe this Smashing Collection from Prabal Gurung for Spring 2014!
Clinical Extravagance!
Precision Exuberance!
Reserved Ostentation!
Contained Audaciousness!
All Fit in the weird way they sound and the weird Juxtapositions of the collection Prabal Showed. Even in it's most Lurid Moments there was a Iron Grip of Taut Control running through the collection, which gave it the kind of Severity of B/D Or S/M but of the most Glamourous Level! Ondria Hardin opened the show in a Clinically Precise White outfit that should have looked nothing more so than Anodyne, but was simmering with a Taut Ascetic Sensuality that bordered slightly on the Fetishistic! The Lineup that followed featured Stark Snow White with touches of Powder Puff Pastels or Exaggerated Prints Skewing Sweet Only in their Coloration, Certainly not in Attitude! Exit No. 7 On Goddess Sasha Luss is one of the Most Distractingly Pretty Outfits all season! Pure Female Charm,
The collection was inspired by Marilyn Monroe and as Prabal Said, Preserving Beauty. These lasses were like fragile One-Of-A-Kind Figurines in the most Delicate Porcelain, Meant to be admired, But not ever engaged... Look, Never Touch! There was a Sinister, COLD Remove to these ladies that Channeled not so much Dior (Raf WISHES He Could Design like this!) but more Acurately, Miuccia Prada! Like the girls were far too aware of their own Devastating Preciousness and Onanistically Flaunted it with no hope of ever letting anything Sully their Wicked Perfection, Thusly, this is why they were behind plastic. Fantasy Objets That Reveled in their Ethereal Distance!
The Marilyn Idea was well played... Was there ever anyone who was more aware, So Keenly Aware, of her own power of sex, that she wielded it like a Fencer's Epee! She, not the men in her life, SHE Chose whom to give herself too, otherwise she was A Promise and A Tease... to the men around her and the millions who lusted after her! And the Psychology of this collection brought all that Fruit to bear in the most Scandalous Way! It felt Punishing. Merciless. Sociopathic even! Completely Devoid of the essential emotion that would have warmed these Glacial Beauties... And that made it ALL THE MORE SO INCREDIBLE!
To go on picking out the Ephemera of each outfit would Enlighten the Mystery of this Spellbinding Collection too much, Suffice it to say... Exit No. 15... WHOA, MOMMA! That one, That's one for the Hall of Fame! Wickedly Fabulous!
Prabal Made me a Devout Follower this Season... I am praying at the Temple of Gurung Now, Chillrens... And I know I will Be Dreaming of Marilyn Tonight as the Worshipful Parishioner I have become.
Praise Be To Prabal Gurung! In Nomine Patris et Filli et Spiritus Sancti! Can I Get A AMEN!?!?
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Lacoste.
Sat. 09/07/2013.
Lacoste.
Getting this off my chest first.
Did Felipe Oliveira Baptista NOT Get the Memo about Diversity on the runway??? Seems to have not. Because he hadn't ONE Female model of anything other than the Pale Variety on the runway! Not the way one would like to Present Themselves in a Season where there are those in the business trying to change things. It was Sad, It was Angering, It was Rather, Insulting! SO MANY Designers have followed by showing how Diverse models serve the clothes as well as all Melanin Deficient ones do! No matter how Covetous I find this collection. I can't really with any honesty say it wasn't severely diminished by such Racist Antics, Because.... It Was!
Putting that Aside, Dear Friends, The Collection was Wholly AMAZING! I don't want to Love it as much as I do, But I, In the interest of being a Bigger person and looking beyond the Shocking and Glaring Schism of Diversity in the collection, will value and judge the collection on it's Clothing merits alone.
I confess, 98% of the Mens' Half of this collection made my heart ache with Covetous Desire! It was All Instantly Wantable and Lustful! The Women's side of things were filled with so many Awe-Inspiring Pieces, That to recount them all would take pages of Type and would be far too Prolix of me. Highlights though, Sure!
The Opening Salvo on Julia Nobis (MY SHE IS HOMELY! I have said it already but in this instance it bears repeating... Felipe, you book Julia Nobis... Hook Face that she is and can't find ONE Model of Colour to fit the edit? BITCH, PLEASE!) had plenty of ease and sophistication, bringing to mind the work of the 20's tennis culture! The Severity and Subtlety of a Chocolate Malt coloured Coat at Exit No. 8 had Desirable written all over it. Exit No 11 also brought one to their knees in it's Slim, Spare, Austere Simplicity. How can a Crop top and Pencil skirt cause so much Burbling Ecstasy! I dunno, but it did here! Exit No. 20 was a Riff on the Polo top taken to dress length and inserted with sheer panels in the most Delicious shade of Glacier Blue! PERFECT!
More you say, Yes there is More... Exit No. 22 is one of the Hottest and most Editorial looks so far the entire season and should be getting pulled now by every Magazine Editor for future Photo shoots! Exit No. 24 occupies that same rarefied space as being the most Languid Day-to-Evening Shirt-Dress in Town! In a Sensational shade of Cinnamon it's Something Very Special! Exit No. 34 needs mentioning as well... A Dusty Suede T-Shirt dress with a flippy hem on the skirt is Sophisticated Casual in a Nutshell!
After that we have Mackenzie Drazan (LUV HER!) in a Brief Papaya Shift with matching Zip-front Duster that Was Gasp-Inducing in it's Radiance! From there on we got some Watery Pastel Printed pieces that were a welcome shot of relaxation, And then the show ended in a Flurry of White that would make Helmut Lang Proud in their Meshing of the Solid and Sheer! (Seems like Helmut Lang is also going to be a Season running theme like the 90's and grunge!) it worked Desperately well where it could have come off Terrifically Awkward and Ungainly. But they didn't
P.S. I WANT That opening Man's Topcoat with an Wholly Unholy Passion!
In the end. The collection was Insanely Good... for NY I'd rank it in the top 10 already. It may even crack the top 10 for the whole season. But that's having the good grace to Overlook the Glaring Inequity of the casting of models. That's Not something that one should have to justify forgiving or setting aside for the sake of the beauty of the clothes.
Some say the Clothes should speak for themselves and we should focus on that alone, Chillrens... to them I Say, BUGGER OFF! In this world that's a Cop Out and a Venal, Puerile Stance to take! Not only women of pale complexions buy the clothes and to so easily dismiss that there are women of this world OTHER Than White is Infuriating and Backwoods in it's reckoning!
The Collection Rocked... But It was Far more Evident that there are some Rocks In Felipe Oliveira Baptista's Head!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Lacoste.
Getting this off my chest first.
Did Felipe Oliveira Baptista NOT Get the Memo about Diversity on the runway??? Seems to have not. Because he hadn't ONE Female model of anything other than the Pale Variety on the runway! Not the way one would like to Present Themselves in a Season where there are those in the business trying to change things. It was Sad, It was Angering, It was Rather, Insulting! SO MANY Designers have followed by showing how Diverse models serve the clothes as well as all Melanin Deficient ones do! No matter how Covetous I find this collection. I can't really with any honesty say it wasn't severely diminished by such Racist Antics, Because.... It Was!
Putting that Aside, Dear Friends, The Collection was Wholly AMAZING! I don't want to Love it as much as I do, But I, In the interest of being a Bigger person and looking beyond the Shocking and Glaring Schism of Diversity in the collection, will value and judge the collection on it's Clothing merits alone.
I confess, 98% of the Mens' Half of this collection made my heart ache with Covetous Desire! It was All Instantly Wantable and Lustful! The Women's side of things were filled with so many Awe-Inspiring Pieces, That to recount them all would take pages of Type and would be far too Prolix of me. Highlights though, Sure!
The Opening Salvo on Julia Nobis (MY SHE IS HOMELY! I have said it already but in this instance it bears repeating... Felipe, you book Julia Nobis... Hook Face that she is and can't find ONE Model of Colour to fit the edit? BITCH, PLEASE!) had plenty of ease and sophistication, bringing to mind the work of the 20's tennis culture! The Severity and Subtlety of a Chocolate Malt coloured Coat at Exit No. 8 had Desirable written all over it. Exit No 11 also brought one to their knees in it's Slim, Spare, Austere Simplicity. How can a Crop top and Pencil skirt cause so much Burbling Ecstasy! I dunno, but it did here! Exit No. 20 was a Riff on the Polo top taken to dress length and inserted with sheer panels in the most Delicious shade of Glacier Blue! PERFECT!
More you say, Yes there is More... Exit No. 22 is one of the Hottest and most Editorial looks so far the entire season and should be getting pulled now by every Magazine Editor for future Photo shoots! Exit No. 24 occupies that same rarefied space as being the most Languid Day-to-Evening Shirt-Dress in Town! In a Sensational shade of Cinnamon it's Something Very Special! Exit No. 34 needs mentioning as well... A Dusty Suede T-Shirt dress with a flippy hem on the skirt is Sophisticated Casual in a Nutshell!
After that we have Mackenzie Drazan (LUV HER!) in a Brief Papaya Shift with matching Zip-front Duster that Was Gasp-Inducing in it's Radiance! From there on we got some Watery Pastel Printed pieces that were a welcome shot of relaxation, And then the show ended in a Flurry of White that would make Helmut Lang Proud in their Meshing of the Solid and Sheer! (Seems like Helmut Lang is also going to be a Season running theme like the 90's and grunge!) it worked Desperately well where it could have come off Terrifically Awkward and Ungainly. But they didn't
P.S. I WANT That opening Man's Topcoat with an Wholly Unholy Passion!
In the end. The collection was Insanely Good... for NY I'd rank it in the top 10 already. It may even crack the top 10 for the whole season. But that's having the good grace to Overlook the Glaring Inequity of the casting of models. That's Not something that one should have to justify forgiving or setting aside for the sake of the beauty of the clothes.
Some say the Clothes should speak for themselves and we should focus on that alone, Chillrens... to them I Say, BUGGER OFF! In this world that's a Cop Out and a Venal, Puerile Stance to take! Not only women of pale complexions buy the clothes and to so easily dismiss that there are women of this world OTHER Than White is Infuriating and Backwoods in it's reckoning!
The Collection Rocked... But It was Far more Evident that there are some Rocks In Felipe Oliveira Baptista's Head!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
Helmut Lang.
Fri. 09/06/2013.
Inexorably Cool! The only way to describe this Home-Run Collection! Nicole and Michael Colovos finally sank into the Warm Pool of Classic Helmut Lang. And, while continuing to Imprint their own Aesthetic onto the Lang Brand and Dna, Struck a Confident, Swaggering, Assured balance between the two! Not an easy Trick. Especially when the Lang Codes are As Ancient as they are recognizable.
Most of the Youngbloods of the Fashion Zeitgeist are only familiar, VAGUELY, with what exactly it was that made Helmut so Polarizing and Revered during his heyday! I admit... I was one of the converted only in Hindsight... Near the end of his career is only when I had actually grasped what it was that Lang did So Magically Only as my Fashion IQ was rising did what he gave the fashion world begin to make sense! Lang, Freed Women. Freed them to be Stridently Confident. Luxuriously Cool and Powerfully Aware of their own Feminine Powers without ever Subjugating them to Arcane Codes of what was perceived as Feminine! Women, In Lang's hands, were Sexual Raconteur AND Provocateur in equal Measure... In Fact, She never HID her womanly wiles. Actually, She Flaunted them, Brazenly. With that Power came the Cool Reserve of Knowing, Assurance, Conviction.
Were his designs sometimes Tricky, Yes, At certain moment, Hopelessly so, but it was within that experimentation that the codes became Refined and Defined until they were honed to Crystal Clarity!
Such tropes were suddenly Front and Center in the Colovos' Collection Presented Friday. From the Spareness to the plays of Sheerness, the Rigour of the cuts and Slim, Lithe lines of the clothes... to the Artistically playful skewing of how the garments fit. Exit No. 1 Was so easy to want! Linear, Clean. Nothing Extraneous! Just what was Essential! It had a Surgical Precision that was kinda Scary. and Breath Stealing also! My Jaw is still scraping the floor! Exit No. 2 was just as Clear and Spare! Pristine, Immaculate! Nothing more need to be said!
There were far too many exits to go into Elaborated detail over... one could spend 15 minutes glorifying each exit in words, Though time could be spent better by being as Economical as The Colovos' were with the clothes and the Edit!
A Few mentions... Cora Emmanuel in Exit No. 14 Measured Perfection in it's Perforated Leather Zip front jacket and cropped Tee with a artistic feeling wrap Skirt! Exits Nos. 20-23, Imbued with a Neon Shade of Rosy Pink were also Channeling the Helmut of days gone by!
But it was a pair of looks that proved that Nicole and Michael simply weren't dredging up past glories and recycling them... That one was truly seeing the Evolution of Lang but with the Colovos Imprint. One of the Two being Exit No. 26. A Slender Shift with a Zip up the front that was Modern, Sleek and Languid all at once! In Helmut's hands... it would have been pushed to the extreme and most likely paneled and MUCH Sheerer! The Colovos' Reigned it in and made it Sweeter, More Genteel. Aggressive not one bit but very much Strong! and then Exit No. was as Sober and Spartan as anything Helmut could have ever dreamed of. On Lais Ribeiro, The Black suit was Relaxed with an almost 80's Mugler Slouch to it that never the less was Crisp!
Wherever Helmut Lang (The Real Flesh and Blood Person) is, if he ever thinks of the label he started and what has become of it... Well, Chillrens...
He Can Sleep Soundly Knowing it's Being Treated Quite Lovingly by Mr. & Mrs. Colovos!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Rag & Bone.
Fri. 09/06/2013.
Rag & Bone.
Honestly, The Less Said, The Better.
This Collection fell flat as a Corpse! Whatever Cool factor that David Neville and Marcus Wainwright once traded so easily and seamlessly in has been Lost! Evaporated... Disparus! This Spring 2014 offering was more of the same Incoherent mess as the last few collections have suffered by! Is this Chic? Is this Cool? Is this... FASHION? Maybe Someone smarter and wiser and more of a Fashion Insider can relate to me that it is, but from my Perch... NOT AT BLOODY ALL Would be the answer to those aforementioned questions!
Wanna Know something else... The Styling made this show 100 Times worse than the clothes alone! It was, in a word, Gruesome! The Orange lips and that Flat, Flaccid hair... OH MY WOW! INSANE! One of the most Compellingly Stomach Churning Looks I have seen in a GOOD Long while! And I Know... All the Editors and Fashion Lackeys will be eating it up with a Shrimp Fork and Fawning over it... I personally want to tell them... BOLLOCKS! OK!? Good. Pardon The Moment of Non-Zen here.... But the Hair/Makeup Styling for this show....
FUCKING SUCKED! NSFW! LOL!
Ok... Now on to the Clothes that Also, SUCKED! In the spirit of trying to remove myself from this Cataclysm of a show... all I will point out is that these clothes Failed to Flatter, Failed to Inspire, Failed to Enhance, Failed On Every Single Level. Why, you may ask? Good Question... Here's The Answer!
In trying to Be Sporty Chic. They lost both sides of the concept. The Chill Factor they were searching to Illuminate was lost totally in the Dark of Unflattering Deep V-Neck sweaters that made Not one of the models they showed the Variants on look anything less that Confused! A Sweater... For Spring.... with a Plunge V-Neck... And Long Sleeves.... Um... Lets Say NO on that one, OK? It was SO Disconcerting.
WHAT WERE THEY TRYING TO SAY?!?! For the Life of me I haven't the Vaugest clue!
Memorable only because of it's Lack of Direction and Messy, Awkward Styling... This was No Hit, It was ALL Miss, Chillrens!
Chalk Another up In the Loss column for Rag & Bone in the World Series of Fashion!
That's All.
Bye4Now
Rag & Bone.
Honestly, The Less Said, The Better.
This Collection fell flat as a Corpse! Whatever Cool factor that David Neville and Marcus Wainwright once traded so easily and seamlessly in has been Lost! Evaporated... Disparus! This Spring 2014 offering was more of the same Incoherent mess as the last few collections have suffered by! Is this Chic? Is this Cool? Is this... FASHION? Maybe Someone smarter and wiser and more of a Fashion Insider can relate to me that it is, but from my Perch... NOT AT BLOODY ALL Would be the answer to those aforementioned questions!
Wanna Know something else... The Styling made this show 100 Times worse than the clothes alone! It was, in a word, Gruesome! The Orange lips and that Flat, Flaccid hair... OH MY WOW! INSANE! One of the most Compellingly Stomach Churning Looks I have seen in a GOOD Long while! And I Know... All the Editors and Fashion Lackeys will be eating it up with a Shrimp Fork and Fawning over it... I personally want to tell them... BOLLOCKS! OK!? Good. Pardon The Moment of Non-Zen here.... But the Hair/Makeup Styling for this show....
FUCKING SUCKED! NSFW! LOL!
Ok... Now on to the Clothes that Also, SUCKED! In the spirit of trying to remove myself from this Cataclysm of a show... all I will point out is that these clothes Failed to Flatter, Failed to Inspire, Failed to Enhance, Failed On Every Single Level. Why, you may ask? Good Question... Here's The Answer!
In trying to Be Sporty Chic. They lost both sides of the concept. The Chill Factor they were searching to Illuminate was lost totally in the Dark of Unflattering Deep V-Neck sweaters that made Not one of the models they showed the Variants on look anything less that Confused! A Sweater... For Spring.... with a Plunge V-Neck... And Long Sleeves.... Um... Lets Say NO on that one, OK? It was SO Disconcerting.
WHAT WERE THEY TRYING TO SAY?!?! For the Life of me I haven't the Vaugest clue!
Memorable only because of it's Lack of Direction and Messy, Awkward Styling... This was No Hit, It was ALL Miss, Chillrens!
Chalk Another up In the Loss column for Rag & Bone in the World Series of Fashion!
That's All.
Bye4Now
Cushnie Et Ochs.
Fri. 09/06/2013.
Cushine Et Ochs.
Discipline. Purity. Precision. Words That by themselves would make one tend to think of Austere matrons in Stiff, Unforgiving Uniforms of some Sci-Fi Future! Or of Catholic School! However, When applied to the Lithe, Limber, Lean Spare Designs of Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs... those words bring to mind Severe Steely SEX! Yes, SEX! I Said It! If any Designer since Gianni or Donatella have ever firmly Enmeshed themselves in the Linguistics of Sex.. it is these two Women and Thank Your Lucky Stars, Ladies!
In a Wonderfully Perverse way, These clothes require a body that is OUT OF BOUNDS In Shape! They forgive nothing and are Punishingly Attenuated to the Sleek Lines of Toned, Taut Flesh and any Ripples or Overt Curves will not be given any Quarter in these Shockingly Delicious Outfits! But Also, there not for the Skinflint Either... These are Outfits for women with DEVASTATING Bodies, Real Bodies. But those bodies better be in Check, Mind you. Women Like Say, Angelina Jolie or Olivia Wilde Or Ciara would be the Ideal Compatriot to Carly and Michelle's Whip Smart Creations!
The Collection... Simply was, DIVINE! I could Careen through the Lexicon of Adjectives non-stop and still not come anywhere near describing how Cool and Hot these clothes were! The Dynamic Duo opened as they did this past Fall with a Paean to White-On-White. Where as for Fall it was Creamy White, Here it was ICY! SHARP! DANGEROUS! Opening with Karlie Kloss' Hypnotically Amazonian frame encased in a Stretch of Cutout White... She Slinked like a Panther down the runway and Exuded Death Defying Femininity!
The edit was Brief and Spare. One thing that was so Positively evident in this collection was how Masterful these Ladies are at Cut and Fit. And a All Too Welcome Slice of Ralph Rucci like mastery came in a few of the Outfits... like In Exits No. 7 And 8. which Matched the Sheer with the Solid in Rucci's Signature Artistic way and Looked Delightfully Hard whilst remaining Liltingly Pliant!
After all that Severe White. Gray Came on the scene and then a print... in Scribbly Black on White in some Slender Body-Con looks... then Two Draped Sand Outfits and the Gals were back to the Sparest of the Spare... BLACK! In Simply Irresistible Shapes and Styles! The Best... Look 20, which Showed off of the Duo's Hallmarks... Inventive Cutouts and Piecing. This one had X-Straps in front that were augmented by a Huge Ring in the center that the four straps of material were attached to! with it's Pencil Slim skirt it was a Winner from Top to Hem!
For the Finale... 3 Outfits in Purple. Now let's get this out in the open... I HATE PURPLE! I truly do! However, Carly and Michelle Nearly made me a Believer especially in the Louche and Elegantly Relaxed Gown that ended the show on none other than Ms. Chanel Iman! It had a Soigne, almost YSL Character about it and was Chic and surprise... Reserved! It won me over With Ease!
So, Chillrens... Keep your Antennae Up for the Girl Power Duo that is Cushnie Et Ochs (Unlike those Silly Pretenders to the Girl Power Duo Throne, The Mulleavy Sisters for Rodarte! BLECH!) They are destined for Big Things....
Greatness, Being One Of Them!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Cushine Et Ochs.
Discipline. Purity. Precision. Words That by themselves would make one tend to think of Austere matrons in Stiff, Unforgiving Uniforms of some Sci-Fi Future! Or of Catholic School! However, When applied to the Lithe, Limber, Lean Spare Designs of Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs... those words bring to mind Severe Steely SEX! Yes, SEX! I Said It! If any Designer since Gianni or Donatella have ever firmly Enmeshed themselves in the Linguistics of Sex.. it is these two Women and Thank Your Lucky Stars, Ladies!
In a Wonderfully Perverse way, These clothes require a body that is OUT OF BOUNDS In Shape! They forgive nothing and are Punishingly Attenuated to the Sleek Lines of Toned, Taut Flesh and any Ripples or Overt Curves will not be given any Quarter in these Shockingly Delicious Outfits! But Also, there not for the Skinflint Either... These are Outfits for women with DEVASTATING Bodies, Real Bodies. But those bodies better be in Check, Mind you. Women Like Say, Angelina Jolie or Olivia Wilde Or Ciara would be the Ideal Compatriot to Carly and Michelle's Whip Smart Creations!
The Collection... Simply was, DIVINE! I could Careen through the Lexicon of Adjectives non-stop and still not come anywhere near describing how Cool and Hot these clothes were! The Dynamic Duo opened as they did this past Fall with a Paean to White-On-White. Where as for Fall it was Creamy White, Here it was ICY! SHARP! DANGEROUS! Opening with Karlie Kloss' Hypnotically Amazonian frame encased in a Stretch of Cutout White... She Slinked like a Panther down the runway and Exuded Death Defying Femininity!
The edit was Brief and Spare. One thing that was so Positively evident in this collection was how Masterful these Ladies are at Cut and Fit. And a All Too Welcome Slice of Ralph Rucci like mastery came in a few of the Outfits... like In Exits No. 7 And 8. which Matched the Sheer with the Solid in Rucci's Signature Artistic way and Looked Delightfully Hard whilst remaining Liltingly Pliant!
After all that Severe White. Gray Came on the scene and then a print... in Scribbly Black on White in some Slender Body-Con looks... then Two Draped Sand Outfits and the Gals were back to the Sparest of the Spare... BLACK! In Simply Irresistible Shapes and Styles! The Best... Look 20, which Showed off of the Duo's Hallmarks... Inventive Cutouts and Piecing. This one had X-Straps in front that were augmented by a Huge Ring in the center that the four straps of material were attached to! with it's Pencil Slim skirt it was a Winner from Top to Hem!
For the Finale... 3 Outfits in Purple. Now let's get this out in the open... I HATE PURPLE! I truly do! However, Carly and Michelle Nearly made me a Believer especially in the Louche and Elegantly Relaxed Gown that ended the show on none other than Ms. Chanel Iman! It had a Soigne, almost YSL Character about it and was Chic and surprise... Reserved! It won me over With Ease!
So, Chillrens... Keep your Antennae Up for the Girl Power Duo that is Cushnie Et Ochs (Unlike those Silly Pretenders to the Girl Power Duo Throne, The Mulleavy Sisters for Rodarte! BLECH!) They are destined for Big Things....
Greatness, Being One Of Them!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Jason Wu.
Fri. 09/06/2013.
Oh, What A Feeling! It was nice to see Jason Wu back in Fighting form after his, Admittedly, Beautiful but Weak showing for Fall 2013. Nice, But again... All was not in proper stead! This was a Relaxed and Slinky collection for Wu, This Spring 2014 Collection. Though it wasn't as Perfect as some of his earlier work.
The Casual/Urban Safari Look Suited him well as it was a new riff for him, but just something about all those slip-ish things in the show gave it a 90's Grunge effect that was Fresh in his hands, but also, Jarring. This 90's Grunge thing is Here to Stay! That's all there is to it! Spring 2014 is heading down the 90's revival road headlong with no sign of stopping it... and Good! Let it have it's moment. It certainly, upon reflection was a Unique Moment and one that bears revisiting!
So, Now on to Wu Spring 2014... Having cleared that air... The Glistening Gown on Karen Elson that opened the show was definitely Lovely, also quite the Stunner to open with. though somewhat, it failed to Give the pulse a Race. It was a little to... Wan in substance to truly give the collection Bounce and Esprit. And that mood hung in the air like a stale mist. There was little Substance to these Often Gorgeous Outfits... nothing that transfigured the watcher like many of Wu's shows of Yore. it felt Boudoir in the opening without the Gusto of the Grunge Girls from the 90's... It was too Upmarket and Precious... Grunge with really No GRUNGE To it! Glitzy, but not Ballsy! yes, the 90's have been long gone but if that's the mood being channeled Here There and Everywhere... it has to be updated so that one can Reconcile the Glamour with the Grunge!
An Aside... that Outfit on Ashleigh Good, Exit No. 8... BURN IT! It was Ungainly and as much as I LOVE Jason, I must say, it was Ill-Conceived and Ill-Constructed. That Bustline Drives me BANANAS It just doesn't do a DAMN thing for a girl as Flat and Stiff as Ashleigh with her Bulldog face! I KNOW She's Karl's New Hot Cup O' Vanilla Latte... I Just find her to look like an Old Boot in the face and she is STIFF in her walk and Graceless... Thankfully though, She's not Nearly as Homely as Julia Nobis.... is any Girl Really?
However, I Digress... Liu Wen in her Exit... No. 10 set the world Ablaze with Sex Appeal and Sass! GAW-LEE! PERFECTION! but in this moment of White Lightning... what was Exit No. 13 trying to convey? Really, if Anyone Knows... Write me and tell me! 'cus I am left Dumbfounded by it!
And that wasn't the only Head Scratcher of the collection... but I have Reflected on the Low Points enough for now... The High Points that there were, were pretty Darn High! Exit No. 22... A Deep Sea Green Beaded Stunner on Zuzanna Bijoch! or the Beaded Beauties of Exits No. 31 and 33... both Highly Desirable and Particularly Fetching! I Must confess, Exit 38 was Shockingly My Favorite of the whole collection! It just pulled all the elements from the Air and everything conspired to make it A KNOCKOUT look! from Maria Borges' LONG Limbs to the Titanormous Bag she carried. It was Tres Belle!
So.... How to explain those Cataclysmic Lapses in Judgement that were the closers on Karlie and Kati?? There was Nothing Sexy or Glam about those Weighty Mistakes! It would have been SO much better to End on Pauline Hoarau's Exit Right before them and Leave a good impression, as it were, this was a discombobulated effort at GLAM-MORE that Sank As heavily as those Tufted Fishtails!
I dunno, I Liked this showing from Wu... but it missed so much of the stuff that those of us who Love him Adore about his work. The Elaborate Femininity, The Decadence, The Sexed-Up Elegance... there were Bright glimpses of it... but there was too much other Stimuli that kept one from honing in on the Great stuff in the midst of all the Mediocre.
And Sadly, Chillrens... In the Fashion Game.. Mediocre is A More Taboo word than BAD!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Monday, September 9, 2013
Kate Spade New York.
Fri. 09/06/2013.
Kate Spade New York.
I have Fallen in Love with Deborah Lloyd. Her work for Kate Spade New York is by far the Most JOYOUS Collection Every season. Joyous; One, because she can truly design! Her clothes may run more towards the Sportif but that in no way diminishes the Craft of these pieces being of the Highest Regard! Two, Because she injects Humour and Wit and Joie De Vivre into her collections. They don't take themselves seriously and are Playful in the extreme, but not Juvenile! For Spring 2014 she was inspired by European Locales... Paris, Capri and Monaco! Who Wouldn't want to Vacay to that Trio???
You could start at any Juncture of this Three-Part Scenario and find Any Number of Exceptional Pieces and Outfits to Mix-And-Match and Pack for a Euro Getaway! Or more likely, Brunch with friends, A Picnic with the Husband/Boyfriend, Parent/Teacher Conference... the clothes may be flying in the ether of fantasy but are FIRMLY rooted in the Terra Firma of the Everyday!
Standouts... Where do I begin, Let's keep it Brief! From the Paris Section the Bow Necked Poppy Red Topcoat with Giverny Floral Pegged Pants! The Coral Shantung Strapless Dance Dress! A Total Audrey Moment (Hepburn, That is!) In a Sailor Stripe Sweater and Pencil Skirt that will go EVERYWHERE!
Capri Gave us a Little Dolce &Gabbana Moment with the Lemon Print pieces that called to mind Spring 2012, But looked Utterly Fresh and Of-The-Moment! A Lace Tee with A Kicky Box Pleat Skirt in Cafe Au Lait Hit just the right note! While the Aqua Blue Shantung shift dress was made for La Dolce Vita!
In Monaco now... we find the best outfits... A Marine Blue circle skirted dress with a Snappy White zipper up the front of the Bodice. The SUPER CHIC Cocktail dress in Geranium Red, Aqua Blue and Marine Blue Shantung that is as Much Monaco at night as it is Chelsea, Manhattan, Soho or Beverly Hills! But the BEST Outfits were in Cool, Crisp, Refreshing Gray and White. An EXTRA Covetous Bi-Colour top coat with skinny Crop pants had MOD Written all over it But also... Michael Kors as well. It was Endlessly chic and limitless in it's possibilities of making a woman Look Sharp and Refined and CHIC! But the Gray short sleeve Sweater and Grey/White Stiped Pencil skirt was the ZENITH of the collection. Any Gal that wears that instantly Reeks of Sophistication and Style! Simple, Clean, Pure, Effortless... it was everything right in the most Exemplary Form! SUPERB!
I said this Last season and I'll Say it again... presenting Such Sharp, Gorgeous and yes, Editorial Clothes like this... Ms. Lloyd needs to present ON THE RUNWAY At Lincoln Center. Her collection by far is already one of the Top 10 of the season, EASY! And her skill with Wit and Joy and Humour and Just Fantastic Clothes puts her Parsecs Ahead of many of the established names Showing. I hope she Takes Destiny By the Reins and Shows her stuff in the Big Boys/Girls Arena Next Season.
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Kate Spade New York.
I have Fallen in Love with Deborah Lloyd. Her work for Kate Spade New York is by far the Most JOYOUS Collection Every season. Joyous; One, because she can truly design! Her clothes may run more towards the Sportif but that in no way diminishes the Craft of these pieces being of the Highest Regard! Two, Because she injects Humour and Wit and Joie De Vivre into her collections. They don't take themselves seriously and are Playful in the extreme, but not Juvenile! For Spring 2014 she was inspired by European Locales... Paris, Capri and Monaco! Who Wouldn't want to Vacay to that Trio???
You could start at any Juncture of this Three-Part Scenario and find Any Number of Exceptional Pieces and Outfits to Mix-And-Match and Pack for a Euro Getaway! Or more likely, Brunch with friends, A Picnic with the Husband/Boyfriend, Parent/Teacher Conference... the clothes may be flying in the ether of fantasy but are FIRMLY rooted in the Terra Firma of the Everyday!
Standouts... Where do I begin, Let's keep it Brief! From the Paris Section the Bow Necked Poppy Red Topcoat with Giverny Floral Pegged Pants! The Coral Shantung Strapless Dance Dress! A Total Audrey Moment (Hepburn, That is!) In a Sailor Stripe Sweater and Pencil Skirt that will go EVERYWHERE!
Capri Gave us a Little Dolce &Gabbana Moment with the Lemon Print pieces that called to mind Spring 2012, But looked Utterly Fresh and Of-The-Moment! A Lace Tee with A Kicky Box Pleat Skirt in Cafe Au Lait Hit just the right note! While the Aqua Blue Shantung shift dress was made for La Dolce Vita!
In Monaco now... we find the best outfits... A Marine Blue circle skirted dress with a Snappy White zipper up the front of the Bodice. The SUPER CHIC Cocktail dress in Geranium Red, Aqua Blue and Marine Blue Shantung that is as Much Monaco at night as it is Chelsea, Manhattan, Soho or Beverly Hills! But the BEST Outfits were in Cool, Crisp, Refreshing Gray and White. An EXTRA Covetous Bi-Colour top coat with skinny Crop pants had MOD Written all over it But also... Michael Kors as well. It was Endlessly chic and limitless in it's possibilities of making a woman Look Sharp and Refined and CHIC! But the Gray short sleeve Sweater and Grey/White Stiped Pencil skirt was the ZENITH of the collection. Any Gal that wears that instantly Reeks of Sophistication and Style! Simple, Clean, Pure, Effortless... it was everything right in the most Exemplary Form! SUPERB!
I said this Last season and I'll Say it again... presenting Such Sharp, Gorgeous and yes, Editorial Clothes like this... Ms. Lloyd needs to present ON THE RUNWAY At Lincoln Center. Her collection by far is already one of the Top 10 of the season, EASY! And her skill with Wit and Joy and Humour and Just Fantastic Clothes puts her Parsecs Ahead of many of the established names Showing. I hope she Takes Destiny By the Reins and Shows her stuff in the Big Boys/Girls Arena Next Season.
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Peter Som.
Fri. 09/06/2013.
Peter Som.
Shall we Start by saying, I ADORE Peter Som as a Designer. Would Love to meet him and would love to work for him as well... But in saying all that and giving Mad Love to Peter, I truly have to say this collection left me... *Cue Michael Kors' Voice* Underwhelmed!
The Major issue plaguing it was it seemed FAR too referential to Lesser Designers... Most Obviously Proenza Schouler and Rodarte. To A Lesser Degree, Rag & Bone Also. The collection seems to have lost that Singular Som like Signature that made his clothes Percolate with Sly Humour and A slight subversive bent. It was there, in some of the outfits. However, It seems he played to the critics and the audience by trading it what is Essentially HIM for what the Fashion Press Et Al. want him to be... And in the end, that's NEVER A good Path to take!
It started out in Fine Som Fashion but when Exit No. 4 took the runway... something just struck one as Hopelessly Proenza-Esque about it and it didn't feel true or sincere. It was a Great Outfit and Damn if Lazaro and Jack could ever WISH to make something that Awesome looking... but again... it was Som seen through the prism of someone else! By Exit No. 6 we felt as if this was perhaps only a Slight Transgression and we were back on Peter Som Firmament.. And Exit No. 6 was indeed Spectacular! Fun, Chic, Subverse, Slightly Kooky! But then... A Rag&Bone Moment at Exit No. 7. SAY HUH!?!? Then, back in safe harbour, More Kookiness and Delightful playfulness! but at Exit No. 10...
Jack and Lazaro were rearing their ugly heads again!
No. 10 wasn't bad. like No. 4 it was actually quite Good, But, ENTIRELY Disconcerting! Maybe it is me, I cannot be sure that it isn't, but it simply felt like Peter was in someone else's skin when he designed these pieces, and Boxy Jacketed White pantsuit of Exit No. 12 gave the same vibe. STUNNING it may be, but again... A little off kilter for the Som DNA! Then Pirouetting to Exits No. 16 and 20 we were in Mulleavy Land with Rodarte.
Is it Just Me? Am I Seeing Things that are not there? neither duo (Proezna Schouler or Rodarte) are Nearly as competent Designers as Som. NO WAY NO HOW! And to see his style superimposed with these lesser-than designers is not only Confusing, it's kinda Irritating! He needn't Go that route. One has to be aware of one's competition and the Design Touchstones of Other houses so one isn't compelled to create things without understanding how they encroach on other peoples Signatures.... meaning KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN! Look at what your competitors do so you don't wind up doing Referential works!
I Shan't beat this horse any further... But I will comment on Two PHENOMENAL outfits that Screamed Peter Som from across the room and were the Standouts in the collection...
Exit No. 21 Was So successfully BRILL that it made me just Smile With my Heart at it's Flirty Beauty! It was one of those outfits that Editors should be Scrambling for to shoot for the Spring 2014 Magazines... but most likely won't!
Exit No. 23 was a Playful winner as well... A Body-Hugging stretch of Black Eyelet lace worn over a T-shirt in a Black/White Stripe pattern. Fun and Whimsical and Sexy to boot!
What was one left with you might ask? Difficult question to answer. Peter certainly has the Chops of a Serious designer and has the skills to be a Major Player. To my eye, though, This collection never coalesced into anything Approaching Success... There were Gorgeous pieces and outfits here, there, and about... but no Through-Line of Coherence.
So In the End, Chillrens we are left with this.... Everyone has a Bad Day Sometimes and Every Designer has a Bad Collection Sometimes... This simply happened to be Peter Som's Sometime....
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Peter Som.
Shall we Start by saying, I ADORE Peter Som as a Designer. Would Love to meet him and would love to work for him as well... But in saying all that and giving Mad Love to Peter, I truly have to say this collection left me... *Cue Michael Kors' Voice* Underwhelmed!
The Major issue plaguing it was it seemed FAR too referential to Lesser Designers... Most Obviously Proenza Schouler and Rodarte. To A Lesser Degree, Rag & Bone Also. The collection seems to have lost that Singular Som like Signature that made his clothes Percolate with Sly Humour and A slight subversive bent. It was there, in some of the outfits. However, It seems he played to the critics and the audience by trading it what is Essentially HIM for what the Fashion Press Et Al. want him to be... And in the end, that's NEVER A good Path to take!
It started out in Fine Som Fashion but when Exit No. 4 took the runway... something just struck one as Hopelessly Proenza-Esque about it and it didn't feel true or sincere. It was a Great Outfit and Damn if Lazaro and Jack could ever WISH to make something that Awesome looking... but again... it was Som seen through the prism of someone else! By Exit No. 6 we felt as if this was perhaps only a Slight Transgression and we were back on Peter Som Firmament.. And Exit No. 6 was indeed Spectacular! Fun, Chic, Subverse, Slightly Kooky! But then... A Rag&Bone Moment at Exit No. 7. SAY HUH!?!? Then, back in safe harbour, More Kookiness and Delightful playfulness! but at Exit No. 10...
Jack and Lazaro were rearing their ugly heads again!
No. 10 wasn't bad. like No. 4 it was actually quite Good, But, ENTIRELY Disconcerting! Maybe it is me, I cannot be sure that it isn't, but it simply felt like Peter was in someone else's skin when he designed these pieces, and Boxy Jacketed White pantsuit of Exit No. 12 gave the same vibe. STUNNING it may be, but again... A little off kilter for the Som DNA! Then Pirouetting to Exits No. 16 and 20 we were in Mulleavy Land with Rodarte.
Is it Just Me? Am I Seeing Things that are not there? neither duo (Proezna Schouler or Rodarte) are Nearly as competent Designers as Som. NO WAY NO HOW! And to see his style superimposed with these lesser-than designers is not only Confusing, it's kinda Irritating! He needn't Go that route. One has to be aware of one's competition and the Design Touchstones of Other houses so one isn't compelled to create things without understanding how they encroach on other peoples Signatures.... meaning KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN! Look at what your competitors do so you don't wind up doing Referential works!
I Shan't beat this horse any further... But I will comment on Two PHENOMENAL outfits that Screamed Peter Som from across the room and were the Standouts in the collection...
Exit No. 21 Was So successfully BRILL that it made me just Smile With my Heart at it's Flirty Beauty! It was one of those outfits that Editors should be Scrambling for to shoot for the Spring 2014 Magazines... but most likely won't!
Exit No. 23 was a Playful winner as well... A Body-Hugging stretch of Black Eyelet lace worn over a T-shirt in a Black/White Stripe pattern. Fun and Whimsical and Sexy to boot!
What was one left with you might ask? Difficult question to answer. Peter certainly has the Chops of a Serious designer and has the skills to be a Major Player. To my eye, though, This collection never coalesced into anything Approaching Success... There were Gorgeous pieces and outfits here, there, and about... but no Through-Line of Coherence.
So In the End, Chillrens we are left with this.... Everyone has a Bad Day Sometimes and Every Designer has a Bad Collection Sometimes... This simply happened to be Peter Som's Sometime....
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Honor.
Thurs. 09/05/2013.
Honor.
Somehow to live in the world that Giovanna Randall Proposed for Thurs. Honor show, One would imagine you'd have to constantly be Whistling or Humming that old Standby of Louis Armstrong's... "What A Wonderful World!"
First off though, Let's Address the Elephant In The Room, or the one that I seem to see in the room! In all it's Sublime Beauty and Grace and Faultless Charm, Perhaps it is inevitable because they have worked their image of their clothing so Finely and With such Precision that the Spectre of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli felt very present here... The prim school girl collars, the finely crafted lace insets, the exuberant and Woman/Girl vibe to the evening wear with it's Restraint and Innocence...It's a wonder we haven't seen more of that floating around and whom is to say we won't! However, This collection only seem imbued with those Valentino like aspects while successfully looking only marginally like it and looking far more like an Independent Thought, Skewed a little by the Esprit De Corps of The Famed Label.
The first exit... really did give that Val Vibe, but only in the most Lovely way! It had the Vernacular, but not the Patois of Pier Paolo/Maria Grazia.. The tropes were obvious but the expression of them here was far more exuberant... Light, Gay, Not confined to The Italian house's Austere, Buttoned-Up Sexuality, Here is was Looser, Freer, but not one whit less elegant. Maybe it was a little less elegant and that is where it's immense charm lay!
Giovanna Has some MAD Skills of cut and construction and all the garments fit like HEAVEN and were cut so well and so Beautifully that if PP/MC Decide to Retire, Ms Randall could take over and none would be the wiser! A PERFECT Little Glace Bleu Tweed Shorts suit on Mackenzie Drazan at Exit No. 12 was DROOL Worthy in it's Soigne Perfection! Exit No. 21 just Blew the Roof... OFF! It was, barely describable in words! Insanely Beautiful will have to suffice for now! In the Palest of the Palest Shade of Wisteria it dripped absolute Goddess Glamour! Starlets... get your Stylists on this INSTANTLY!
From there the roller coaster only went Higher and Higher, By the time Maria Borges had come out with her Re-Embroidered Lace column gown and cape and Cora Emmanuel Gave Delicious Ballgown Joy in her Asterisk and Star Embroidered ballgown... One's breath had already been sufficiently stolen and one could not imagine being any more Elated. but you'd have been wrong! The last 3 Exits Took one on a magic carpet ride of Icy, fairy-like beauty and left the viewer simply spent from the Exquisite Ride! Giovanna Randall Stole my Breath with this collection, and Darling Imp that she is...
She Stole My Heart too while she was at it, Chillrens!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Honor.
Somehow to live in the world that Giovanna Randall Proposed for Thurs. Honor show, One would imagine you'd have to constantly be Whistling or Humming that old Standby of Louis Armstrong's... "What A Wonderful World!"
First off though, Let's Address the Elephant In The Room, or the one that I seem to see in the room! In all it's Sublime Beauty and Grace and Faultless Charm, Perhaps it is inevitable because they have worked their image of their clothing so Finely and With such Precision that the Spectre of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli felt very present here... The prim school girl collars, the finely crafted lace insets, the exuberant and Woman/Girl vibe to the evening wear with it's Restraint and Innocence...It's a wonder we haven't seen more of that floating around and whom is to say we won't! However, This collection only seem imbued with those Valentino like aspects while successfully looking only marginally like it and looking far more like an Independent Thought, Skewed a little by the Esprit De Corps of The Famed Label.
The first exit... really did give that Val Vibe, but only in the most Lovely way! It had the Vernacular, but not the Patois of Pier Paolo/Maria Grazia.. The tropes were obvious but the expression of them here was far more exuberant... Light, Gay, Not confined to The Italian house's Austere, Buttoned-Up Sexuality, Here is was Looser, Freer, but not one whit less elegant. Maybe it was a little less elegant and that is where it's immense charm lay!
Giovanna Has some MAD Skills of cut and construction and all the garments fit like HEAVEN and were cut so well and so Beautifully that if PP/MC Decide to Retire, Ms Randall could take over and none would be the wiser! A PERFECT Little Glace Bleu Tweed Shorts suit on Mackenzie Drazan at Exit No. 12 was DROOL Worthy in it's Soigne Perfection! Exit No. 21 just Blew the Roof... OFF! It was, barely describable in words! Insanely Beautiful will have to suffice for now! In the Palest of the Palest Shade of Wisteria it dripped absolute Goddess Glamour! Starlets... get your Stylists on this INSTANTLY!
From there the roller coaster only went Higher and Higher, By the time Maria Borges had come out with her Re-Embroidered Lace column gown and cape and Cora Emmanuel Gave Delicious Ballgown Joy in her Asterisk and Star Embroidered ballgown... One's breath had already been sufficiently stolen and one could not imagine being any more Elated. but you'd have been wrong! The last 3 Exits Took one on a magic carpet ride of Icy, fairy-like beauty and left the viewer simply spent from the Exquisite Ride! Giovanna Randall Stole my Breath with this collection, and Darling Imp that she is...
She Stole My Heart too while she was at it, Chillrens!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Sunday, September 8, 2013
Costello Tagliapietra.
Thurs. 09/05/2013.
Costello Tagliapietra.
Jeffrey and Robert have always had Keen and Especially intuitive Colour Sense... sometimes equal in the modern sense to that of the Great Master of all things Colour, Yves Saint Laurent. Many may think that stretching it a bit, but if one was to pour over their output from day one to today, they wouldn't have much of a compelling argument against such a postulation! Iterating that Salient point first is key to finding the Transfiguring Beauty in their collection this Spring 2014.
It... Was.... About..... COLOUR! Saturated hues from Carrot Orange to Turquoise Blue to Marigold Yellow to Peach, Olive, Ciel Bleu and back Again! Although it sounds Vivid and like a lot... the Success of the matter was the fact that they didn't spin out of control from those few colours and continue to Add more Colours into the already Saturated Mix! Judicious Editing... The Hallmark of any Great Designer(s)!
The collection was an Ode to the Self, that self being Robert and Jeffrey! Taking the Tropes of their own Uniform of the every day, and Configuring them to suit their customer was a bit of Self-Indulgent genius that could have come off as Egotistical had it not been so heartfelt and guileless! The opening Exit a Paean to The always Omnipresent Plaid that Drapes the Handsome Bears most usually... but in a colour combo that you know neither of them would be caught DEAD In! It was A Jarringly Beautiful Juxtaposition of Aquatic Blue and Carrot Orange (How DID they Know those are my Two FAVORITE Colours? *WINK*) but as the eye adjusted and was given relief by the Clean, Spare Charcoal skirt one realized how Positive and Uplifting the Plaid Colours were! No woman is going to have a Sad day wearing such Upbeat Shades!
Next out was another Eye Scorcher! HOT CARROT ORANGE HEAD TO TOE! OH MY GOD YES! That's All I Have To Say, Chillrens! It was Awfully nice to see the guys ply their handiwork to an Honest To God PANTSUIT! It was Cut, EXQUISITELY, and was incredibly flattering, MORE SO because of it's Electric brightness!
Then a Relieving shade of Olive in one of their typically masterful dresses... and another pantsuit! In Ciel Bleu with that opening Plaid as the back of the Blazer. paired with DEEP Turquoise Pants, it was a True revelation and one that Most designers wouldn't have the Balls to attempt! The plaid showed up again in a couple more outfits and the faded into the background and Jeffrey and Robert began to focus on Blocking and Insetting of Colours together to some stunning effect...
I stop there because, I could go on about each and every outfit individually and would sacrifice any kind of Brevity this review may have had, But, suffice it to say... virtually every outfit was up to the Scrupulous standards of the Duo! TWO Stood out from the pack in such a way though that they need to be mentioned Definitely...
Exit No. 21. If, by any chance, there were EVER any doubt that these Two Gentleman have Impeccable tailoring and dress making skills... Then this exit would put that Idea Well to rest! In DEEP Ink Blue, It's apparent simplicity was betrayed by it's sublime drape and fit... So Perfectly Constructed, that the dress LITERALLY could have been worn Backwards and not only would have looked the same, but no one would possibly be able to tell that it was! A Masterpiece of Construction and Design!
Exit No. 24 was the other. Same rules above apply, But this was something different... the Mallard Green Jersey Poured over the body of the model like it was an extension of her own Skin! Not ONE Micron of the dress was out of place or rumpled or Betrayed the construction of the gown! This is something that has crept into their collection that should truly be noted... The Halston-Like Skill in which they construct some of their pieces is simply, Mind Boggling! That gown could sashay next to any Original Halston and Equal or RIVAL it in Spades! It brought me almost to tears!
If i had one Complaint, And I Do... I would start by saying... Jeffrey and Robert. You Know I Love You Guys, you can do little to no wrong in my book, However... I know you two are keeping the business small and exclusive. but you two are Major Players in the NY Fashion Arena!!! It is time to start Showing It! You are FAR Better than 3/4 of the people showing at Lincoln Center and You should Stake your Rightful Claim there. And in the time slot you had... there were no other shows using Major Girls... BOOK THEM! Book the BIG Names, if only 3-5 of them... Your shows are always so Splendidly diverse and I must imagine you like that Diversity and Uniqueness (And God Bless You two for it!) but this is Fashion, My Dahlinks! You two DESERVE To have the Big Gals Strutting your runway... Yes, yes, you had Rose Cordero this season, but one Minor Major girl isn't going to get you the notice you deserve!
I Adore These Gentleman and saying that, I would also be all too eager to write a review if I DIDN'T like their collection! Honesty is something that is integral to Fashion! But I can't say anything bad about this collection because it was SO DAMN GOOD!
Perhaps... One of their Absolute Best!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Costello Tagliapietra.
Jeffrey and Robert have always had Keen and Especially intuitive Colour Sense... sometimes equal in the modern sense to that of the Great Master of all things Colour, Yves Saint Laurent. Many may think that stretching it a bit, but if one was to pour over their output from day one to today, they wouldn't have much of a compelling argument against such a postulation! Iterating that Salient point first is key to finding the Transfiguring Beauty in their collection this Spring 2014.
It... Was.... About..... COLOUR! Saturated hues from Carrot Orange to Turquoise Blue to Marigold Yellow to Peach, Olive, Ciel Bleu and back Again! Although it sounds Vivid and like a lot... the Success of the matter was the fact that they didn't spin out of control from those few colours and continue to Add more Colours into the already Saturated Mix! Judicious Editing... The Hallmark of any Great Designer(s)!
The collection was an Ode to the Self, that self being Robert and Jeffrey! Taking the Tropes of their own Uniform of the every day, and Configuring them to suit their customer was a bit of Self-Indulgent genius that could have come off as Egotistical had it not been so heartfelt and guileless! The opening Exit a Paean to The always Omnipresent Plaid that Drapes the Handsome Bears most usually... but in a colour combo that you know neither of them would be caught DEAD In! It was A Jarringly Beautiful Juxtaposition of Aquatic Blue and Carrot Orange (How DID they Know those are my Two FAVORITE Colours? *WINK*) but as the eye adjusted and was given relief by the Clean, Spare Charcoal skirt one realized how Positive and Uplifting the Plaid Colours were! No woman is going to have a Sad day wearing such Upbeat Shades!
Next out was another Eye Scorcher! HOT CARROT ORANGE HEAD TO TOE! OH MY GOD YES! That's All I Have To Say, Chillrens! It was Awfully nice to see the guys ply their handiwork to an Honest To God PANTSUIT! It was Cut, EXQUISITELY, and was incredibly flattering, MORE SO because of it's Electric brightness!
Then a Relieving shade of Olive in one of their typically masterful dresses... and another pantsuit! In Ciel Bleu with that opening Plaid as the back of the Blazer. paired with DEEP Turquoise Pants, it was a True revelation and one that Most designers wouldn't have the Balls to attempt! The plaid showed up again in a couple more outfits and the faded into the background and Jeffrey and Robert began to focus on Blocking and Insetting of Colours together to some stunning effect...
I stop there because, I could go on about each and every outfit individually and would sacrifice any kind of Brevity this review may have had, But, suffice it to say... virtually every outfit was up to the Scrupulous standards of the Duo! TWO Stood out from the pack in such a way though that they need to be mentioned Definitely...
Exit No. 21. If, by any chance, there were EVER any doubt that these Two Gentleman have Impeccable tailoring and dress making skills... Then this exit would put that Idea Well to rest! In DEEP Ink Blue, It's apparent simplicity was betrayed by it's sublime drape and fit... So Perfectly Constructed, that the dress LITERALLY could have been worn Backwards and not only would have looked the same, but no one would possibly be able to tell that it was! A Masterpiece of Construction and Design!
Exit No. 24 was the other. Same rules above apply, But this was something different... the Mallard Green Jersey Poured over the body of the model like it was an extension of her own Skin! Not ONE Micron of the dress was out of place or rumpled or Betrayed the construction of the gown! This is something that has crept into their collection that should truly be noted... The Halston-Like Skill in which they construct some of their pieces is simply, Mind Boggling! That gown could sashay next to any Original Halston and Equal or RIVAL it in Spades! It brought me almost to tears!
If i had one Complaint, And I Do... I would start by saying... Jeffrey and Robert. You Know I Love You Guys, you can do little to no wrong in my book, However... I know you two are keeping the business small and exclusive. but you two are Major Players in the NY Fashion Arena!!! It is time to start Showing It! You are FAR Better than 3/4 of the people showing at Lincoln Center and You should Stake your Rightful Claim there. And in the time slot you had... there were no other shows using Major Girls... BOOK THEM! Book the BIG Names, if only 3-5 of them... Your shows are always so Splendidly diverse and I must imagine you like that Diversity and Uniqueness (And God Bless You two for it!) but this is Fashion, My Dahlinks! You two DESERVE To have the Big Gals Strutting your runway... Yes, yes, you had Rose Cordero this season, but one Minor Major girl isn't going to get you the notice you deserve!
I Adore These Gentleman and saying that, I would also be all too eager to write a review if I DIDN'T like their collection! Honesty is something that is integral to Fashion! But I can't say anything bad about this collection because it was SO DAMN GOOD!
Perhaps... One of their Absolute Best!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Tadashi Shoji.
Thurs. 09/05/2013.
Tadashi Shoji.
I can Hardly imagine where to begin! This Collection was SO BEAUTIFUL! So Pretty! So Feminine! Modern, Yet Classic and CLASSY at the same time! It felt Buoyant! Effervescent! Radiant!
Let's Start off by being Frank... This is not the kinda Fashion that makes Front Page Or Most Blog News... You Know?!?!? It's Too... Commercial for that! But In saying that, This Season Shoji-San Amped up the Modernity and Freshness. The Opener was a Cool Minty green that was more subdued than a Sugary Candy pastel tone... cut in a intriguingly Couture Silhouette it was very Uptown but was thrown into Downtown Relief by the Cropped Plaid short sleeve top that alighted atop the dress! That simple stroke of brilliance made the outfit fresher and younger, a little edgier even, but nothing too dangerous or sharp!
Things continued in the pastel mode and each outfit could be worthy of multiple pages of admiration... But I will keep it brief and pick out some of the most Breathtaking of Exits! Exit No. 12 A Standout in Yellow with a Bias Lace Plaid Overlay and Buoyant Skirt! Divine! Exits No. 18 and No. 19 were Exquisite Amalgams of lace and sparkly plaid chiffon that were Purely STUNNING! And Sexy, Young, Fresh, and Sensual all at the same time! Mackezie Drazan looked Especially Fetching in a Cool Seafoam Green Number at Exit No. 23 that just Radiated Girlish Charm in a Womanly way! Exit No. 35 was also A Stunner in A metallic Violet Blue done in Paved Sequins that looked like a New York Skyline at night at the top of the bust, twinkling with tiny stars... HEAVEN!
This was A Most IMPRESSIVE Showing, One of the finest Collections I have ever seen from Mr. Shoji and Above All... one of the Freshest and Youngest! Nothing here screamed... MADAME or Matron... It was all a collection of clothes that a Chic woman who is young in mind and not necessarily years or one that is young in both could wear with ease!
And, Chillrens.... That's ALWAYS A Winning Formula!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Tadashi Shoji.
I can Hardly imagine where to begin! This Collection was SO BEAUTIFUL! So Pretty! So Feminine! Modern, Yet Classic and CLASSY at the same time! It felt Buoyant! Effervescent! Radiant!
Let's Start off by being Frank... This is not the kinda Fashion that makes Front Page Or Most Blog News... You Know?!?!? It's Too... Commercial for that! But In saying that, This Season Shoji-San Amped up the Modernity and Freshness. The Opener was a Cool Minty green that was more subdued than a Sugary Candy pastel tone... cut in a intriguingly Couture Silhouette it was very Uptown but was thrown into Downtown Relief by the Cropped Plaid short sleeve top that alighted atop the dress! That simple stroke of brilliance made the outfit fresher and younger, a little edgier even, but nothing too dangerous or sharp!
Things continued in the pastel mode and each outfit could be worthy of multiple pages of admiration... But I will keep it brief and pick out some of the most Breathtaking of Exits! Exit No. 12 A Standout in Yellow with a Bias Lace Plaid Overlay and Buoyant Skirt! Divine! Exits No. 18 and No. 19 were Exquisite Amalgams of lace and sparkly plaid chiffon that were Purely STUNNING! And Sexy, Young, Fresh, and Sensual all at the same time! Mackezie Drazan looked Especially Fetching in a Cool Seafoam Green Number at Exit No. 23 that just Radiated Girlish Charm in a Womanly way! Exit No. 35 was also A Stunner in A metallic Violet Blue done in Paved Sequins that looked like a New York Skyline at night at the top of the bust, twinkling with tiny stars... HEAVEN!
This was A Most IMPRESSIVE Showing, One of the finest Collections I have ever seen from Mr. Shoji and Above All... one of the Freshest and Youngest! Nothing here screamed... MADAME or Matron... It was all a collection of clothes that a Chic woman who is young in mind and not necessarily years or one that is young in both could wear with ease!
And, Chillrens.... That's ALWAYS A Winning Formula!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Creatures Of The Wind.
Thurs. 09/05/2013
Creatures Of The Wind.
Starting Off... have heard all the buzz about these guys, But have never paid any attention to them. Just not on My Fashion Radar. But, now I guess I have to give them a gander and see what the fuss is all about. Shane Peters and Christopher Gabier have seemed to cull something of a Following, Why Exactly after viewing this collection I am not quite sure. It wasn't Bad. In Fact, there was something Perversely Charming about it. There also is no lack of Talent or Inspiration here, just it's kinda.... Oh, I don't know, Heavy Handed and A BIT too Quirky and Self-Assured for it's own good!
Literally, Every outfit could auger REAMS of Analysis and Output of words in describing them and that's where the problem lies... It's like Lacroix on Acid AND METH! Where as even in his most Indulgent moments, Lacroix knew when to Judiciously say, ENOUGH! These Boys, Shane and Christopher Look at Enough and Say... "Nice Concept, Not Really!"
It Plagued their collection in it's most Decadent outfits, but also was part of the kind of Spirited Genius and Joie of the collection, which was FULL of Joie! The first few exits were quite Subdued in their intentions and execution. One Particularly well judged outfit was Exit No. 5. Stone coloured trench with an EYE Searing Geranium Red Turtleneck and pastel Bubblegum Pink Shorts! The Coolness in colour of the Trench made the other pieces pop even more, but in a Good way! From there we started to see the Burbles of the Excess, but still kept to a gentle simmer, One other Exceptionally good look was Exit No. 13, A Papery, Glossy, Crunchy Leather dress in a Shimmery Cinnamon with a Wide Black band around the midriff with Leather Leaf/Frond Applique embroidery! Send that Honey RIGHT Over to Neiman Marcus!
However, in the next turn out, Things had begun to get a little Much! Colours, Textures, Prints all clashed in not the right kind of way. It had something of that Prada Effect back in the day of her "Sick Colours" blended together to make something Hideously Amazingly Beautiful and Gorgeous, but this had none of that Skill or Mastery! They are finding their way and Identity I would suppose and should not be chastised for their indulgences, but the quicker they resolve that high spirit of youth and inexperience into something more palatable the better!
Before i go One paragraph further I must SERIOUSLY Question the use of that AWKWARD Christmas Red and Silver Brocade Wrapping Paper Fabric that reared it's Outright Hideous Head more than once in the collection!?!? That, Young Bucks, Shouldn't have seen the light of day! It, in a collection that had a very Rich vein running through it, looked Cheap! Exuberance of Youth aside, You guys' inner Gay should have told you BURN THAT S*!T And Never let it be spoken of again!
I have to say, am Intrigued as to what these Gentleman are going to do as the years go on... they have to Singular Vision to be Unique and Succeed by Being just that! They can be that rare bird, Like once Upon a Time Isaac Mizrahi and Todd Oldham were, Completely their Own Type of Designer that Creates a New look in their own Microcosm, that no other designer could attempt to be or simply COULD Be!
Keeping An Eye On these Pups!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Creatures Of The Wind.
Starting Off... have heard all the buzz about these guys, But have never paid any attention to them. Just not on My Fashion Radar. But, now I guess I have to give them a gander and see what the fuss is all about. Shane Peters and Christopher Gabier have seemed to cull something of a Following, Why Exactly after viewing this collection I am not quite sure. It wasn't Bad. In Fact, there was something Perversely Charming about it. There also is no lack of Talent or Inspiration here, just it's kinda.... Oh, I don't know, Heavy Handed and A BIT too Quirky and Self-Assured for it's own good!
Literally, Every outfit could auger REAMS of Analysis and Output of words in describing them and that's where the problem lies... It's like Lacroix on Acid AND METH! Where as even in his most Indulgent moments, Lacroix knew when to Judiciously say, ENOUGH! These Boys, Shane and Christopher Look at Enough and Say... "Nice Concept, Not Really!"
It Plagued their collection in it's most Decadent outfits, but also was part of the kind of Spirited Genius and Joie of the collection, which was FULL of Joie! The first few exits were quite Subdued in their intentions and execution. One Particularly well judged outfit was Exit No. 5. Stone coloured trench with an EYE Searing Geranium Red Turtleneck and pastel Bubblegum Pink Shorts! The Coolness in colour of the Trench made the other pieces pop even more, but in a Good way! From there we started to see the Burbles of the Excess, but still kept to a gentle simmer, One other Exceptionally good look was Exit No. 13, A Papery, Glossy, Crunchy Leather dress in a Shimmery Cinnamon with a Wide Black band around the midriff with Leather Leaf/Frond Applique embroidery! Send that Honey RIGHT Over to Neiman Marcus!
However, in the next turn out, Things had begun to get a little Much! Colours, Textures, Prints all clashed in not the right kind of way. It had something of that Prada Effect back in the day of her "Sick Colours" blended together to make something Hideously Amazingly Beautiful and Gorgeous, but this had none of that Skill or Mastery! They are finding their way and Identity I would suppose and should not be chastised for their indulgences, but the quicker they resolve that high spirit of youth and inexperience into something more palatable the better!
Before i go One paragraph further I must SERIOUSLY Question the use of that AWKWARD Christmas Red and Silver Brocade Wrapping Paper Fabric that reared it's Outright Hideous Head more than once in the collection!?!? That, Young Bucks, Shouldn't have seen the light of day! It, in a collection that had a very Rich vein running through it, looked Cheap! Exuberance of Youth aside, You guys' inner Gay should have told you BURN THAT S*!T And Never let it be spoken of again!
I have to say, am Intrigued as to what these Gentleman are going to do as the years go on... they have to Singular Vision to be Unique and Succeed by Being just that! They can be that rare bird, Like once Upon a Time Isaac Mizrahi and Todd Oldham were, Completely their Own Type of Designer that Creates a New look in their own Microcosm, that no other designer could attempt to be or simply COULD Be!
Keeping An Eye On these Pups!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Richard Chai Love
Thurs. 09/05/2013
Richard Chai Love.
What a subtly Interesting show Richard Chai presented us with for Spring 2014. How exactly do you Reconcile the Easy, Breezy soft side of the collection with the Strict, Strong hard side? Somehow, More successfully than not, Pretty easy it seemed! From the Strict, yet Soft opening Exit, A Clean, Spare, Sleeveless Jacket worn with a Filmy breeze of a Slim skirt over Wider Trousers all in white but the trousers vertically striped in a Brilliant hue of Red. It struck a Reserved, Yet Exuberant chord that gave Flight to the rest of the collection! The best pieces struck that Juxtaposed Balance between Grit and Grace. Most to Charming and very Wearable effect!
Some Highlights, Minx Xi in Exit No. 8, A Tough, Urban bleached white Moto Coat with Quilted detailing over a Sensuously Flimsy Filmy sheer top with a full liquid skirt that gave all kinds of Volume but very little Bulk! Exit No. 11 was also a Head-Turner in a Flamenco Red Bias Slip Gown worn over a pair of Floral and Labyrinth print Trousers that teetered on that Line of 90's Grunge without being too Obeisant to that era, Although it is quickly playing out that the 90's is the Touchstone of the season and there will be MULTIPLE Intimations to the Grunge Period!
One of my FAVE Exits was No. 15. A Languid Gown in a Blue/White Labyrinth Print that glided along with immense Liquidity. It was also just really beautifully cut and flattering! But the Highlight of the entire show came in Exit No. 21... Mackenzie Drazan's Lithe, Sublimely Long, Limber Frame was Gorgeously Spotlit in a Simple Cropped Black/White Stripe top and fluid floor-length Black skirt. The Quiet Impact of the Precisely Measured Pieces was nothing short of Gasp Inducing in it's Simple Grace and Quiet Elegance but also still firmly tethered to the Grunge/Tough Chic Firmament as to not be Wilted and Wafty and Milquetoast!
Everything from then on, To Moi, Was trying to live up to the Impact of that Severe and Spare and Superior Moment of Exit No. 21! perhaps it all didn't but none of the rest failed to fit right in with that Master Stroke! it was all, Surprisingly Brilliant! Was it shaking the heavens with in it's Innovation or Provocation.... Well, Hardly. But that was not the point. Finding a interesting path to follow, Sticking to it and making it as beautiful as that idea can be was the Catch of the day here and it all fell into place Perfectly! There was much to LOVE at Richard Chai Love this Day. And Many women will be feeling all that love come Spring 2014, That, I can Assure You, Chillrens!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Richard Chai Love.
What a subtly Interesting show Richard Chai presented us with for Spring 2014. How exactly do you Reconcile the Easy, Breezy soft side of the collection with the Strict, Strong hard side? Somehow, More successfully than not, Pretty easy it seemed! From the Strict, yet Soft opening Exit, A Clean, Spare, Sleeveless Jacket worn with a Filmy breeze of a Slim skirt over Wider Trousers all in white but the trousers vertically striped in a Brilliant hue of Red. It struck a Reserved, Yet Exuberant chord that gave Flight to the rest of the collection! The best pieces struck that Juxtaposed Balance between Grit and Grace. Most to Charming and very Wearable effect!
Some Highlights, Minx Xi in Exit No. 8, A Tough, Urban bleached white Moto Coat with Quilted detailing over a Sensuously Flimsy Filmy sheer top with a full liquid skirt that gave all kinds of Volume but very little Bulk! Exit No. 11 was also a Head-Turner in a Flamenco Red Bias Slip Gown worn over a pair of Floral and Labyrinth print Trousers that teetered on that Line of 90's Grunge without being too Obeisant to that era, Although it is quickly playing out that the 90's is the Touchstone of the season and there will be MULTIPLE Intimations to the Grunge Period!
One of my FAVE Exits was No. 15. A Languid Gown in a Blue/White Labyrinth Print that glided along with immense Liquidity. It was also just really beautifully cut and flattering! But the Highlight of the entire show came in Exit No. 21... Mackenzie Drazan's Lithe, Sublimely Long, Limber Frame was Gorgeously Spotlit in a Simple Cropped Black/White Stripe top and fluid floor-length Black skirt. The Quiet Impact of the Precisely Measured Pieces was nothing short of Gasp Inducing in it's Simple Grace and Quiet Elegance but also still firmly tethered to the Grunge/Tough Chic Firmament as to not be Wilted and Wafty and Milquetoast!
Everything from then on, To Moi, Was trying to live up to the Impact of that Severe and Spare and Superior Moment of Exit No. 21! perhaps it all didn't but none of the rest failed to fit right in with that Master Stroke! it was all, Surprisingly Brilliant! Was it shaking the heavens with in it's Innovation or Provocation.... Well, Hardly. But that was not the point. Finding a interesting path to follow, Sticking to it and making it as beautiful as that idea can be was the Catch of the day here and it all fell into place Perfectly! There was much to LOVE at Richard Chai Love this Day. And Many women will be feeling all that love come Spring 2014, That, I can Assure You, Chillrens!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Saturday, September 7, 2013
BCBG Max Azria.
Thurs. 09/06/2013.
BCBG Max Azria.
Pardon My French, But... WHAT THE HELL WAS THAT!?!?!? In a few words, for that's all that need be spent on such a Death Defyingly TERRIBLE Collection, How does this Translate as Fashion? This Spring 2014 Collection of Max and Lubov Azria finds them as Out of touch with what is Real Fashion as the last few years of Collections have!
Seriously, There was not ONE Exit that I can say felt Fresh or Even Remotely Wearable except by a Young Version of Miss Havisham! The collection felt Equally and Bizarrely Under-Designed and OVER-Designed! The Looks, Tricky in the Extreme and Not at all the good extreme, just got away from the Designers with no sure hand to tame these Outlandish Looks!
It is, as if the collection wanted to be something, but never could really decide what that something was, and in the end just Looked... CONFUSED! It wasn't how any Modern Woman wants to look. Careless, Haphazard, Ragamuffin!
This has been the Trajectory that the Azria's have been on for many a year now and the collections show no sign of getting back to the Urban Cool of yesteryear! Each collection has suffered from and been an amalgam of just bad design and the Epitome of Bad Styling! The next one plowing a Furrow of The Unattractive More Deeply than the last! The company is surviving on it's name and on the COMMERCIAL Clothes that are sold in the boutiques! If there are Women out there buying and more importantly, WEARING the Runway Looks, Then Those are some Brave Amazon Warriors! Because really, most Girls and Ladies wouldn't want to walk into their Worst Enemy's Home dressed so Erratically!
This company needs a Fresh Eye and some New Blood. It feels in their Efforts to be Downtown and Cool and Quirky the Azria's have forgotten One, Small, Salient Point. The Clothes have to Look GOOD First!
And Theses Clothes, Chillrens.... DON'T, Look Good!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
BCBG Max Azria.
Pardon My French, But... WHAT THE HELL WAS THAT!?!?!? In a few words, for that's all that need be spent on such a Death Defyingly TERRIBLE Collection, How does this Translate as Fashion? This Spring 2014 Collection of Max and Lubov Azria finds them as Out of touch with what is Real Fashion as the last few years of Collections have!
Seriously, There was not ONE Exit that I can say felt Fresh or Even Remotely Wearable except by a Young Version of Miss Havisham! The collection felt Equally and Bizarrely Under-Designed and OVER-Designed! The Looks, Tricky in the Extreme and Not at all the good extreme, just got away from the Designers with no sure hand to tame these Outlandish Looks!
It is, as if the collection wanted to be something, but never could really decide what that something was, and in the end just Looked... CONFUSED! It wasn't how any Modern Woman wants to look. Careless, Haphazard, Ragamuffin!
This has been the Trajectory that the Azria's have been on for many a year now and the collections show no sign of getting back to the Urban Cool of yesteryear! Each collection has suffered from and been an amalgam of just bad design and the Epitome of Bad Styling! The next one plowing a Furrow of The Unattractive More Deeply than the last! The company is surviving on it's name and on the COMMERCIAL Clothes that are sold in the boutiques! If there are Women out there buying and more importantly, WEARING the Runway Looks, Then Those are some Brave Amazon Warriors! Because really, most Girls and Ladies wouldn't want to walk into their Worst Enemy's Home dressed so Erratically!
This company needs a Fresh Eye and some New Blood. It feels in their Efforts to be Downtown and Cool and Quirky the Azria's have forgotten One, Small, Salient Point. The Clothes have to Look GOOD First!
And Theses Clothes, Chillrens.... DON'T, Look Good!
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Friday, September 6, 2013
Two For One! Lisa Perry And Tia Cibani
Weds. 09/04/2013:
Lisa Perry.
Ok. I have no Idea who this Gal is and why she has a Boutique on the Upper East Side... I'll Google Her Later! But Why, Oh Why, Did she present THIS as her Spring 2014 Offering? Even if the first Exit was Kinda Cute, It looks JUST Like a Best Selling Blouse that has been Blowing out of Old Navy! I, MEAN... It Looks EXACTLY like the Dress version of that Sleeveless Blouse! YIKES! But, Ok... it's Cute. I grant you that! but the rest of the collection. Even though all in White it was ALL OVER THE PLACE! From Hideous Circular Cutouts In ALL the wrong places to the most Ungainly, Awkward Asymmetry I have seen In MANY A Moon!
Exits 2-4 were Quite Saucy. Easy to Wear. Kinda Kick Ass, In a Clean Sportif Way! But Honey! After that, That Plane CRASHED! It didn't spare Anyone until the last two Outfits which seem Descended from some Mount Olympian Pantheon of Ralph Lauren Goodness and Light! The last 2 exits were FANTASTICALLY Awesome! They could have saved the collection had So, SO much of it not been just Distractingly Unwearable!
If Tennis was her Jumping off point all I can say is she lost this one...
6-0
6-0
Game. Set. Match!
Tia Cibani.
Funny. Sometimes how a Good idea can go Really, Really Bad!!! That's how I view Tia Cibani's Spring 2014 Selections! I would like to say that the show Gained some momentum after a Somewhat, though not altogether Promising 1st Exit, But I cannot! It was, Nice. But Bland! Texture can only excite so much! However after that... It Dragged on and Never felt like it was going to get anywhere til Exit No. 11! A pretty Dress of Textured Knit with an Off-The-Shoulder Portrait collar and inset into the neckline was a pretty Graphic Lace. It was Easily the best piece in the entire collection!
The Collection Hit and Missed it's way to the Finish Line and Simply Suffered from Lack of Cohesive Vision and no seeming ability to edit the outfits. The nod to Frida Kahlo-like layering was, Interesting to say the least, but not Earth-Shattering and not entirely convincing! The Layering Upon Layering of pieces became Ungainly and Inelegant. A Draped Black Chiffon Gown at Exit No. 23 looked especially attractive amongst the detritus... and the genuinely Joyful Colours and Clean Simplicity of Exit No. 25 in The sweetest Pastel Mint and Goldenrod was a Serious Winner.
But Alas, The rest was not even memorable enough to be considered Awful. It was just a Missed Opportunity and a Mish-Mash of ideas that never cohered into much of anything. Just a Lot of Sound and Noise, Signifying Nothing!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Lisa Perry.
Ok. I have no Idea who this Gal is and why she has a Boutique on the Upper East Side... I'll Google Her Later! But Why, Oh Why, Did she present THIS as her Spring 2014 Offering? Even if the first Exit was Kinda Cute, It looks JUST Like a Best Selling Blouse that has been Blowing out of Old Navy! I, MEAN... It Looks EXACTLY like the Dress version of that Sleeveless Blouse! YIKES! But, Ok... it's Cute. I grant you that! but the rest of the collection. Even though all in White it was ALL OVER THE PLACE! From Hideous Circular Cutouts In ALL the wrong places to the most Ungainly, Awkward Asymmetry I have seen In MANY A Moon!
Exits 2-4 were Quite Saucy. Easy to Wear. Kinda Kick Ass, In a Clean Sportif Way! But Honey! After that, That Plane CRASHED! It didn't spare Anyone until the last two Outfits which seem Descended from some Mount Olympian Pantheon of Ralph Lauren Goodness and Light! The last 2 exits were FANTASTICALLY Awesome! They could have saved the collection had So, SO much of it not been just Distractingly Unwearable!
If Tennis was her Jumping off point all I can say is she lost this one...
6-0
6-0
Game. Set. Match!
Tia Cibani.
Funny. Sometimes how a Good idea can go Really, Really Bad!!! That's how I view Tia Cibani's Spring 2014 Selections! I would like to say that the show Gained some momentum after a Somewhat, though not altogether Promising 1st Exit, But I cannot! It was, Nice. But Bland! Texture can only excite so much! However after that... It Dragged on and Never felt like it was going to get anywhere til Exit No. 11! A pretty Dress of Textured Knit with an Off-The-Shoulder Portrait collar and inset into the neckline was a pretty Graphic Lace. It was Easily the best piece in the entire collection!
The Collection Hit and Missed it's way to the Finish Line and Simply Suffered from Lack of Cohesive Vision and no seeming ability to edit the outfits. The nod to Frida Kahlo-like layering was, Interesting to say the least, but not Earth-Shattering and not entirely convincing! The Layering Upon Layering of pieces became Ungainly and Inelegant. A Draped Black Chiffon Gown at Exit No. 23 looked especially attractive amongst the detritus... and the genuinely Joyful Colours and Clean Simplicity of Exit No. 25 in The sweetest Pastel Mint and Goldenrod was a Serious Winner.
But Alas, The rest was not even memorable enough to be considered Awful. It was just a Missed Opportunity and a Mish-Mash of ideas that never cohered into much of anything. Just a Lot of Sound and Noise, Signifying Nothing!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Organic John Patrick
Weds. 09/04/2013:
Organic John Patrick
Am New to this Label. I am going to go back and catch up on what this Designer is about and his Aesthetic. Judging SOLELY from the Spring 2014 show... I cannot say I am Much Amazed.
The collection feels... Disjointed. Much more of a Mash-Up than a cohesive Whole. The Prevailing Mood felt like 90's Grunge Revisited with A bit of The Mid '90's Prada Thrown in and a Subtle Soupcon Of the Play of Strength/Sexuality in use of Sheer Materials that was one of Helmut Lang's Tropes back in the days of yore!
Admittedly, The First Exit didn't do much to Inspire. The colours were nicely conceived, but it felt, Rumpled. Schlubby, Colombo-Esque! Definitely that Feel of Grunge from the 90's that was so embodied by Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein And Richard Tyler (WOW, That's a Name from a Bygone Era!) And by the by... Exit No. 2 was so Terrifically Awful it bears mentioning only because it was so Deeply Misconceived! Tremendously though, Exit No. 4 Turned things around Sublimely and I was ready to Shout Hallelujah! A Slink of Ice Blue Slip gown That Channeled All that was Right about Grunge! Really, A Stunning, Simple, Louche Piece of Design here!
And Then... it was gone. Evaporated! Relief seem to be at hand by Exit No. 9, A Preppy-ed Out look with a Prada-ish Circle Skirt and it had some Appeal, But before and after that... Frumpy, Dumpy, Schlumpy! Sheer Skirts injected neither Sex Appeal nor Knowing Irony as if in the hands of a Master like Signora Miuccia! Everything appeared... Ill-Fitting and Dreadfully Joyless! There was no Sly Wink, Wink, Nudge, Nudge to the clothes and the colours did not one single thing to lift the Miasma of Sturm Und Drang that pervaded this collection!
The Only saving Grace... A Moment of Jil Sander Severity In a rather Stunning Aubergine Skirt suit with Circle Skirt and Wrap-Waist Jacket that Could have saved the collection, But was more like a Cessation of the Bleak for one brief shining exit! The Final Exit ended the show on, if not a HIGH Note, At least a Consolation for all that transpired before. A Beautiful Bronze Circle Skirted suit in Shantung or Taffeta... Not really Sure. But It was a Quietly Confident and Cool Moment. Something this collection Lacked in the Utmost!
Not sure whom the client base is for this collection, but... if this collection is any indicator, they are a Rag-Tag Bunch of Gals and must have some of the most SERIOUS Fashion Chops on the block to pull these Disparate, Sad Pieces together into something Worthy! God Bless 'Em!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Organic John Patrick
Am New to this Label. I am going to go back and catch up on what this Designer is about and his Aesthetic. Judging SOLELY from the Spring 2014 show... I cannot say I am Much Amazed.
The collection feels... Disjointed. Much more of a Mash-Up than a cohesive Whole. The Prevailing Mood felt like 90's Grunge Revisited with A bit of The Mid '90's Prada Thrown in and a Subtle Soupcon Of the Play of Strength/Sexuality in use of Sheer Materials that was one of Helmut Lang's Tropes back in the days of yore!
Admittedly, The First Exit didn't do much to Inspire. The colours were nicely conceived, but it felt, Rumpled. Schlubby, Colombo-Esque! Definitely that Feel of Grunge from the 90's that was so embodied by Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein And Richard Tyler (WOW, That's a Name from a Bygone Era!) And by the by... Exit No. 2 was so Terrifically Awful it bears mentioning only because it was so Deeply Misconceived! Tremendously though, Exit No. 4 Turned things around Sublimely and I was ready to Shout Hallelujah! A Slink of Ice Blue Slip gown That Channeled All that was Right about Grunge! Really, A Stunning, Simple, Louche Piece of Design here!
And Then... it was gone. Evaporated! Relief seem to be at hand by Exit No. 9, A Preppy-ed Out look with a Prada-ish Circle Skirt and it had some Appeal, But before and after that... Frumpy, Dumpy, Schlumpy! Sheer Skirts injected neither Sex Appeal nor Knowing Irony as if in the hands of a Master like Signora Miuccia! Everything appeared... Ill-Fitting and Dreadfully Joyless! There was no Sly Wink, Wink, Nudge, Nudge to the clothes and the colours did not one single thing to lift the Miasma of Sturm Und Drang that pervaded this collection!
The Only saving Grace... A Moment of Jil Sander Severity In a rather Stunning Aubergine Skirt suit with Circle Skirt and Wrap-Waist Jacket that Could have saved the collection, But was more like a Cessation of the Bleak for one brief shining exit! The Final Exit ended the show on, if not a HIGH Note, At least a Consolation for all that transpired before. A Beautiful Bronze Circle Skirted suit in Shantung or Taffeta... Not really Sure. But It was a Quietly Confident and Cool Moment. Something this collection Lacked in the Utmost!
Not sure whom the client base is for this collection, but... if this collection is any indicator, they are a Rag-Tag Bunch of Gals and must have some of the most SERIOUS Fashion Chops on the block to pull these Disparate, Sad Pieces together into something Worthy! God Bless 'Em!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Where To Start! Well... Weds. Seems Like A Good Place! Josie Natori
Weds. 09/04/2013:
Josie Natori.
The first MAJOR Show of the week was the also the First Runway show for the more than 30+ year Vet, The Sublime Josie Natori! The Collection was quite Lovely, Very Asian Inspired, with many Kimono effects and affectations, but also modern enough to get the urban Woman on the go interested enough to invest in some of the pieces!
The Collections Opening Salvo was an array of Beige Tones from Deep to Pale with Interesting subtleties to give them some life, A Cropped Kimono Sleeve on the Opening Exit, An Asymmetric Hemline on Exit No. 5 that was actually rather beautiful and lovely. The Not-So-Subtle side draping of a Blouse on Exit No. 6. After this Ms. Natori gave us a few Shimmery, Shiny Metallic-Lite Pieces that even when that Metallic shine was used in Black it was Subdued and Restrained. That word, Restrained, was something of a Hallmark of this collection, It didn't Scream Aloud "FASHION" It Firmly, yet Gently Announced it. No woman is going to upset any Apple Carts in these Magnificently Tailored and Luxe Pieces, However she will be noticed...
After the Shine it was a grouping of the Quintessential Spring standby's, Le Blanc Et Le Noir! All perfectly Ladylike and Modern with a Hint of nostalgia, I mean Ms. Natori was going for a Subtle View of the 30's made modern in this collection and she achieved it without looking Dated or Costume-like! Exit No. 20 hit a High Note, A cropped Kimono Jacket/Coat with a Matching Asymmetric hem High-Waist Skirt was Subtle in its Charcoal Divinity, but was Transported to the Transfiguring by the Exquisitely Understated yet totally Flamboyant Flourish of a 30's-style wallpaper Floral Embroidered Embellishment on the front shoulder! Just that Pop that transported the collection to Shanghai, Circa 1935! The next 2 exits had the same Floral Smattering that was equally well timed and placed as the aforementioned exit, but No. 20 was the one that gave the Frisson!
Next Came... Well... COLOUR! Scads of it! From Cornea-Searing Shades of Pink and Red to one of my Favorite Passages in the show... A Riotous Conglomeration of Acid Trip Colours in Dip-Dye Looking Plaid-ish prints to one that was a Photo Print of Desert Dunes in a Simple looking, Yet not Simplistic Shift dress... all these Accented with HUGE baubles around the neck! A Nice Touch.
And so on to the finish did Colour Reign, From Citrus Brights, to Crayola Hues. One, well TWO Standouts in the Evening Parade... A GLORIOUS Draping of Aqua Blue In Exit No. 35 and then a Sleek Persimmon Number Following It. Breath Stealing! However it was the last two Liquid Metallic Satin Goddess Gowns that Bought to Mind the Screen Sirens of the 30's And if I Might add, the Best Days of the Bygone era of Donna Karan! They were IMMACULATELY Cut and Divinely Draped and Clung and Flowed like they were being poured down the body! Instant Want!
For her first Major runway show, Ms. Natori Kept her edit Tight, Concise and Strong! This Augers Very Well for Future shows and Ms. Natori may be having her Roman Spring with this new gambit of being a Ready-To-Wear Designer. And I couldn't be happier to see the fruits from this Already Prosperous Tree!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Josie Natori.
The first MAJOR Show of the week was the also the First Runway show for the more than 30+ year Vet, The Sublime Josie Natori! The Collection was quite Lovely, Very Asian Inspired, with many Kimono effects and affectations, but also modern enough to get the urban Woman on the go interested enough to invest in some of the pieces!
The Collections Opening Salvo was an array of Beige Tones from Deep to Pale with Interesting subtleties to give them some life, A Cropped Kimono Sleeve on the Opening Exit, An Asymmetric Hemline on Exit No. 5 that was actually rather beautiful and lovely. The Not-So-Subtle side draping of a Blouse on Exit No. 6. After this Ms. Natori gave us a few Shimmery, Shiny Metallic-Lite Pieces that even when that Metallic shine was used in Black it was Subdued and Restrained. That word, Restrained, was something of a Hallmark of this collection, It didn't Scream Aloud "FASHION" It Firmly, yet Gently Announced it. No woman is going to upset any Apple Carts in these Magnificently Tailored and Luxe Pieces, However she will be noticed...
After the Shine it was a grouping of the Quintessential Spring standby's, Le Blanc Et Le Noir! All perfectly Ladylike and Modern with a Hint of nostalgia, I mean Ms. Natori was going for a Subtle View of the 30's made modern in this collection and she achieved it without looking Dated or Costume-like! Exit No. 20 hit a High Note, A cropped Kimono Jacket/Coat with a Matching Asymmetric hem High-Waist Skirt was Subtle in its Charcoal Divinity, but was Transported to the Transfiguring by the Exquisitely Understated yet totally Flamboyant Flourish of a 30's-style wallpaper Floral Embroidered Embellishment on the front shoulder! Just that Pop that transported the collection to Shanghai, Circa 1935! The next 2 exits had the same Floral Smattering that was equally well timed and placed as the aforementioned exit, but No. 20 was the one that gave the Frisson!
Next Came... Well... COLOUR! Scads of it! From Cornea-Searing Shades of Pink and Red to one of my Favorite Passages in the show... A Riotous Conglomeration of Acid Trip Colours in Dip-Dye Looking Plaid-ish prints to one that was a Photo Print of Desert Dunes in a Simple looking, Yet not Simplistic Shift dress... all these Accented with HUGE baubles around the neck! A Nice Touch.
And so on to the finish did Colour Reign, From Citrus Brights, to Crayola Hues. One, well TWO Standouts in the Evening Parade... A GLORIOUS Draping of Aqua Blue In Exit No. 35 and then a Sleek Persimmon Number Following It. Breath Stealing! However it was the last two Liquid Metallic Satin Goddess Gowns that Bought to Mind the Screen Sirens of the 30's And if I Might add, the Best Days of the Bygone era of Donna Karan! They were IMMACULATELY Cut and Divinely Draped and Clung and Flowed like they were being poured down the body! Instant Want!
For her first Major runway show, Ms. Natori Kept her edit Tight, Concise and Strong! This Augers Very Well for Future shows and Ms. Natori may be having her Roman Spring with this new gambit of being a Ready-To-Wear Designer. And I couldn't be happier to see the fruits from this Already Prosperous Tree!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Let The Games Begin!
09/06/2013
Hello All!
Spring/Summer 2014 Has Begun! Some Shows have already Happened over the last Two Days and as much as I'd like to cover ALL of them, I am going to keep my Focus on the Major Players, and the Minor Players who look to be coming along to BE Major Players! Alright? Thank You All!
Bear with me and Please Follow My Blog! LOL! I am not beyond begging! ;-D
Take Care One and All!
Bye4Now!
That's All.
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