Friday, July 29, 2016

Alexander Wang Resort 2016.

Thurs. 06/04/2015.






Cool comes, it would seem, to Alexander Wang with amazing ease. He delivers a variation on "Cool" with each collection and seems to refine and hone it effortlessly! It's his Niche, and one he works with exceptional aptitude. Resort was just another exploration of Wang into that thicket, and it was an especially Streetwise and Tough-edged one. His woman this time out wasn't looking to be any place that might be considered even remotely "Uptown" this was a Bowery girl. Soho, Chelsea, Not Astor Place, Upper East or West Anything or Manhattan, shockingly though, deconstructed from Wang's vision of the clothes, they could be as apt there as anywhere! 

With a Strong Utilitarian and functionality based appeal to much of the clothes, they aped work wear that one could imagine was from a Couture version of Dickies! But the best looks, were when Wang hit the hardest and didn't compromise Tough Chick Chic and went Balls Out for a Urban Warrioress look in her full regalia. So, the opening look of a Belted waist Leather dress worn with a White printed sweater hit that note right from the start, A Zippered cropped Leather top and pants also hit that sweet spot, although it had a giddy little frisson of Sandy from "Grease" (Olivia Newton-John Era) running through it. Best of the bunch, an Uber tough Leather Motorcycle jacket tucked into Dark Denim cutoffs! Rocking!

Other standouts, A Plonge Leather sleeveless top in Black worn with Army Green Bermudas that was one of the best looks in the collection, a sublimely simple column in Black Silk cut like a Slim-Line Caftan was as much ready for the Met (Opera or Gallery) as it was for strolling in Tunisia or lounging on a Yacht! If the mix is the message, then Wang's message was delivered Loud and Clear. These pieces could be Girly and Sweet, Or Tough and Savage. Cultivating such duality and getting it just right should be Applauded Vociferously! CLAP CLAP CLAP CLAP CLAP!!!!!!!!! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


 

Thursday, July 28, 2016

Ralph Lauren Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






Ralph Lauren's Resort 2016 collection was filled with all the typical things that Lauren does well and somewhat aggravatingly, does OFTEN! Horse-y Equestrian, Denim, Neutrals, all present and accounted for. This time around though, the looks came off as fresh, Inviting even, Luxe and Casual in equal measure and ready for the Boardroom, Selfie or Private Jet, conversely they also had the appeal that could speak to a Working Mom with Style, the preppy Equestrienne and all those in-between layers of the Strata that make up the Fashion Spectacle.

In layman's terms, it was a damn good collection! A Singularly Sensational Tan pantsuit with a punchy Flame Orange shirt was near Perfect, as was the highlight look of the collection, a Simple. Clean, Pristine White shirt paired with a White topstitched Black Denim Mermaid skirt! SUBLIME! And lest we forget the Beach-y/City easy White Shirtdress on Herieth Paul that just KILLED It! DEAD! Lauren and his team whipped this Resort collection into quite Taut and Sleek shape and Exalted the icons of RL Dressing 101 into outfits that were anything other than Basic! It was a Breath of Fresh Air, and hopefully, more of this is to come for the label... It SORELY Needs It! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Zac Posen Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






To call Zac Posen's 2016 Resort effort disappointing borders on a gargantuan achievement in understatement! I, kindly, in deference to the fact that I find Mr. Posen EXCEPTIONALLY talented, refrain from calling it something ungentlemanly, but, Egads! Was it ever a Strike Out Swing and a Miss! Firstly, it looked Dowdy, and in a way that things that are generally categorized as Matronly would find unappetizing. The Flats were the first of many errors, The colours were of less offence but not by much. And aside from all that, the clothes didn't raise the pulse speed in any way, they were... Dull. Lifeless and at times, majorly overdesigned.

To settle upon the graceless aspects of this collection like an all-enrobing fog would simply be to tirade on an already sore subject just for the cause of inflicting more malice. The good things? An Exquisite to the Max Midnight Blue Satin Goddess gown that was giving sublime Jean Harlow references. And the Black gown lined in Lemon Chiffon Yellow with an intriguing Off-Shoulder neckline was checked off as a winner too! The last gown in the Look Book, a Flotilla of Black Silk had an apparent Charles James P.O.V. that was executed to a most lovely degree! 

This was by no means a successful collection, but it had it's moments, and many a time, all that there is to offer, are moments. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Calvin Klein Collection Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.





Taking a good look at Francisco Costa's 2016 Resort collection is like taking an Ultra-Modern look back at 1920's Tennis outfits, those worn by Suzanne Lenglen and designed by Patou. The modernity came via the SUPER low-slung belts and a more streamlined profile to the clothes that embraced ease through a prism of sleekness and sharpness. The collection also, Finally, truly looked like a collection beholden to the name above the door, an innate "Calvinist" thread ran widely through this fantastic showing. 

Aside from the Drop waist looks and pleated skirts, Costa offered some re-imaginings of house staples that were setting a new Gold Standard for La Maison. Take a look at the muddy Yellow detail-less trench in strips of shiny Eelskin, or the White Satin slip dress worn over a sheer net Tee! The Petrol Blue belted waist shift dress was probably the Hands-Down Star of the show! Costa presented us with an Impeccable collection of clothes that, One: Offered up modern versions of house classics and made them as equally appealing, and Two: Injected a Languid, Fluid sense of Modern ease to clothes that had a definite retro aura to them. It was handled with a Depth of Facility and Brilliance hard to come by! A Remarkable Effort, to be sure! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Victoria Beckham Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






Victoria Beckham's 2016 Resort collection was something of a mixed bag, delivering on the one hand, Quirky, subtly unique Sportswear with a bit of a delightfully British skew, and on the other some Super polished High-End pieces (Especially the few evening pieces she designed) that recalled her early halcyon days of designing slender body loving Wiggle gowns. Cross-Pollinate these two ideas and you get a Confusing hybrid that did not, per se, amble in the incoherent, but did feel at odds with itself.

As a sportswear forward house now, Victoria Beckham's voice is still immature and young, where as, in the beginning of her label,  her Evening gowns were Right On The Money, because she was designing with her purest self then, this new path has felt shaky and ill-at-ease from the start. This Resort collection, showed Beckham strengthening her perspective and honing in on what her label is to finally, truly, become. One could catch snatches and snippets of what that will look like, the High Waist trench in Vellum, the Confident combo of slim Black trousers with a Sequined top. And most obviously with the Scintillating Black floor sweeping gown with the asymmetric neckline! If Beckham's Future collections ever capture the unbridled power of that gown, Beckham will be on the road to success. As of now, she seems to be approaching a mighty big Fork in the road... where she goes from here,.. Whom is to Know!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Chloe Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






Stuck in a rut. Claire Waight Keller and her Chloe collection for Resort 2016 offered more of what we have come to know and expect from the label, Bohemia meets Glastonbury meets Bloomsbury meets Stevie Nicks with a bit of Sgt. Pepper thrown in! It's droopy, wafty, vintage-y, and altogether forgettable and dimensionless. The endless variations on this them have now grown stale and unappetizing. Keller needs to breathe some life and let some fresh air into the house. While the press and clients may for now be eating it up, at some point, all will tire, like I have, of the repetitious, dulling, boredom. 

The reassuring thing is, the clothes aren't Awful. They're just not exciting, and that's a larger sin than producing something ugly. Any of these pieces could fit in with any past collection Keller has paraded forth and not one person would be the wiser. So, While a Mahogany quilted Bomber and Crochet Lace granny dress, or an Animal print coat will look good on any woman, their not testing Keller's mettle in any convincing way! Something must be said for consistency, but also as the old Hoary Chestnut relates, "A Foolish Consistency Is The Hobgoblin Of Little Minds" 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Cushnie Et Ochs Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






A softer, more liquid, even one might say, Frilly, vibe wove it's way through the usually aesthetically and spiritually Rigourous Resort collection of Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. Not usually known for being designers of "Girly" clothes, there was something playfully Girlish about this collection, was it the gentle shade of Aqua peeking out from the sea of Black and White? Or the Ruffles that gently, yet architecturally decorated some of the pieces? It had to have been the Rainbow Lollipop Sequin pieces that truly sealed the deal! 

With an interesting Cutout motif to boot, the pair produced their typical Body Aggrandizing looks with a little touch of softness and freshness injected into the mix. Hold On, though! The ladies didn't forget their Bread-And-Butter... A hard edge Black Leather dress styled like a Moto Coat was Tough and Sexy as Hell, as was the Bond Girl sleek Jumpsuit that followed. So, if you still like your Cushnie Et Ochs on the more Punishing side, they had your back! They just also were trying to tempt your inner Ingenue out to play for a bit! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Sunday, July 24, 2016

Christian Siriano Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






In a Splashy, Colourful and frankly, Campily Outlandish ode to Palm Beach, Christian Siriano whipped up one helluva Delightful and Playful collection. Not without it's faults the collection is easily forgiven by it Joyous nature and glamourous Joie de Vivre. Dominated by saturated hues of Peach and Pink and Turquoise, Fuschia, Lemon, Lavender and more, Siriano did not play it one whit safe with the excess or eccentricity. Beautiful, Bold prints were evident in nearly every look, an Impressionistic floral to start things off in Peach and Magenta, Stripes in multiple hues, a folkloric "Monkey" Print, and a downright Stunning Brushstroke floral in Coral Orange and White that was perhaps the best of the bunch!

Siriano let his baser instincts take over, and the collection was much more desirable and wonderful for it... recently, it's felt as if Siriano has been fighting himself in the desire to evolve his aesthetic and move away from the aspects of his design that made him such a Wunderkind in the first place. This collection had the feeling that he let himself go back to those Halcyon days and just do what he does best and loves to do. As the collection proved, That would seem to be the winning tack for him to take from here forward! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Saturday, July 23, 2016

Monique Lhuillier Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






Pretty, but congested. Monique Lhuillier's Resort 2016 collection was Beautiful, and it was also a trifle too much. A more succinct edit would have made a world of difference! Truthfully, did we need all those Dance skirt dresses, especially the two in Lime Green and Marine Blue Matelasse? That was then followed by one in Cotton Candy Pink embellished Lace? Charming, Yes. Pretty, YES! Necessary... Not really! Then compound this with a Floral overload, splashed over almost every look, and the visual indigestion began to set in!

The best things in the collection were the times Lhuillier did something unexpected... As in the Floral print Cutaway Frock jacket paired with a delicate Lace dress under, the coat having a hint of McQueen to it and looking all the better for it. Or the White drawstring waist Caftan Goddess gown with Ruby Red Lace encrusted around the Neck and Shoulders... It was Sensual and a little Daring, but in a Sophisticated, Bond Girl type of way! (Why in the Name of the Father she repeated it in the VERY NEXT LOOK with a different Floral Embroidery pattern, only the Heavens know!?) The final 2 gowns stole the presentation, in Delft-like Floral printed Gazar, those two Beauties were Drama Plus! 

In the end, It wasn't by any means a disappointment of a show, it just wasn't fully living up to it's potential, mainly because it was bedraggled by extraneous and superfluous looks and some looks that just were downright, Boring. A Keener edit next time, and Lhuillier will strike the Bell Clarion Clear! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Carolina Herrera Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.






There isn't much to say about Carolina Herrera's 2016 Resort collection. It was as predictably beautiful as ever, and when concerning Herrera, that is no Damning with Faint Praise at all! Herrera is one of those designers, in the Karl Lagerfeld vein of thinking. She could, Easily, rest on her laurels and churn out repeats of her past glories and far surpass many designers in the business by hectares, yet she is always striving to push her clothes to the future while still retaining what is essential Carolina! It has made her one of the most Respected and Savvy designers on the circuit. 

This collection was filled with Gorgeous pieces that are earmarked for Glamourous moments any where in the world they may travel to, From Fifth Avenue, to Bond Street, to the Rue de la Paix! The collection relied much on Floral prints and an over-scale Feather print that gave the collection a feminine lightness and effervescence, but this being Carolina Herrera, this was counterpointed by a Regal and Dramatic flair in her Signature, ALWAYS Breathtaking Full-Throttle Antebellum Ballgowns! So, while there was a Terrific DEEP Salmon colour Astrakhan suit with a cropped jacket and brief skirt for those moments when life isn't a Red Carpet, There was a Over-The-Top STUNNING Ballgown in an intense shade of Watermelon Red with those Plumes printed on it that was the living embodiment of the word "Sweeping" Epic would also be a good word!  

Another contrapunctal moment, A mod-ish Shift in Baby Blue with little Navy ties on the sides was as chic as could be and made for strolling the cobbled streets of Venice as it would be walking the same cobbled streets of Boston, then directly following that look was a Sweet, Demure even, Yet altogether Grandiose Two-piece Organza Ballgown in the same ebullient shade with a little Navy beaded flower on the waist, it was channeling a vibe that both a Uptown Mother and her Daughter could wear with unparalleled ease and both look not too young, or too old! 

So, yet again, Success! Carolina Herrera isn't simply "Consistent" that's a Given and it's also kind of a slur! She is Brilliant! She knows her oeuvre and is constantly redefining what that is and how it looks. She doesn't linger in the past, Her own or any one else's! Her clothes are directly for the NOW! This is why she is the Formidable Powerhouse of fashion that she is, and for the envisioned future, Shall Remain so! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Friday, July 22, 2016

Erdem Resort 2016.

Weds. 06/03/2015.





Erdem Resort 2016.

There was A LOT going on in Erdem Moralioglu's 2016 Resort presentation. Perhaps, No not perhaps, DEFINITELY, Too Much! So many ideas were weaving around one another than much of it didn't fit the narrative presented. What that narrative was, was equally problematic to grasp. We know for a fact, Florals were a thing. They were profuse, and at times, darkly unromantic. There was much Beautiful and Pretty to marvel at, but as Moralioglu began to explore ideas hither and yon, everything began to fold in on itself and seem, to be kind, Incoherent. Weird scrolls of ruffles and repetitious silhouettes hijacked the collection from having a definitive focus, especially when you then add to the mix a Tweedy section, a Lace section, A Pink Fil Coupe dress that was a Grandiose mistake, in it's voluminous proportion and in it's drab plainness.

Even more distracting and frankly, Hideous, was a Leather skirt in tiers of ruffles that should have suffered an early abortion of the idea and never seen the light of day, Moralioglu just had too many plates spinning at once to give the proper focus to the right ideas, which when they were right were decidedly fantastic! A Black coat with a Vintage-y floral creeping around it was Magnificent and something that would fit in the Wardrobe of an Adult Wednesday Aadams when she wanted to be... Whimsical! A long White Floral print gown was also currying favour. Aside from that... not much was impressing this viewer and much seemed way to contrived and inorganic to pursue further investigation. A Surefire Miss on Moralioglu's part this outing!





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Michael Kors Collection Resort 2016.

Tues. 06/02/2015.





From the first look out, it was obvious that Michael Kors was in a Playful mood for his Utterly Sensational Resort 2016 collection. A Mink topper done in a "Q-Bert" like grid optical intarsia in Black, White and Caramel. It could have read as 60's Mod or 70's Pimptastic, either or, it was Giddily wonderful and a surefire way to pique the interest of what was to follow! What did come afterwards had hints of Lisa Taylor in her Infamous Helmut Newton shot image of her in a decidedly raunchy and provocative manner wearing a Calvin Klein dress, which Kors had said the image of was "Frozen in his Mind!" whilst he was creating the collection, to even a bit of Mary Tyler Moore from her eponymous show in the 70's! 

There were inflections of Capri (in the Blue and Green colour mix) and favorite Kors touchstone Ali McGraw in the coats and jackets and sweaters with shirt collars and cuffs peaking out. Crisp Pleats and longer hems gave a throwback vibe as well but seemed resolutely modern, The optical prints brought a refreshing sense of newness to Kors' usual stable of Solids and reliable plaids, checks and dots, and it gave a punch of quirk to whatever it was splashed on (and only in Michael Kors World, does a optic print Mink even conceivably ring as perfectly right for a Resort collection!) Colour-Blocking was in evidence also, and hit a Spectacular note in Look No. 5 on Ondria Hardin in Black, Caramel and Coral. More Kors-ian was a Shift dress in super supple Toast suede with Caramel Leather trim that evoked Moto and Mod at the same moment! 

Rarely does Kors ever falter, his Fall 2015 collection was actually one of those rarities, what it lacked, was what this collection had in spades, Fun, Spirited, Dynamic clothes for the Woman who is as at home on a Jet to Majorca as she is in a High Rise on the Upper East Side. Michael Kors' woman EMBODIES Jet-Set and aspirational dressing,  This collection was a perfect reflection of her and her way of living, That women of a somewhat lesser ilk can also identify with the clothes, is just part of Kors' Legendary talent and Skill at speaking to women of all walks of life! 



That's All.





Bye4Now!


Thursday, July 21, 2016

Tibi Resort 2016.

Tues. 06/02/2015.






For all of Amy Smilovic's concentration spent on DNA and such Epehemera, one needed to really leave such a belaboring theme by the wayside and focus flatly on the clothes. If one does such, they will find Attractive pieces made for the women who doesn't consider jaunting off to Santorini or Ibiza for her vacay. Smilovic's Resort collection was as easy to integrate into the everyday as they would be to take on a jaunt to some exotic locale, in fact, more so. 

Edgy and Modern are De Riguer for the Tibi label, this time out there was plenty of that to go around, contrasted nicely with easier to digest looks like a Electric Lime sweater with a Slinky Pencil skirt with a raw hem, cut on the bias that exuded relaxed chic, as did a softer Grass Green top and Putty Paper-Bag waist Leather skirt. There was enough here to stimulate the senses, DNA esoterica or not, and much to craft a wardrobe out of. It wasn't the most soul-stirring collection of clothes, but it doesn't have to be to fulfill the needs of the Modern, Urban woman! And that task was handle expertly and proficiently!





That's All.





Bye4Now! 

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Diane Von Furstenberg Resort 2016.

Tues. 06/02/2015.





Diane Von Furstenberg Resort 2016.

Having lived through some of the most Giddy and Glamourous times of Fashion history, Diane Von Furstenberg has seen ALL The Greats, and Wore them! Yves, Hubert, Halston, Calvin, Anne, Oscar, Bill, Ralph, and Innumerable others... That she remains as Youthful and Modern and relentlessly Forward thinking as she has is a testament to the Intellect and Passion of a Woman of Legendary caliber! Her clothes reflect all that and more and her Resort 2016 collection was like a perfect summation of all these ideas and influences!

It read kind of like a "Best Of" collection without one saccharine trace of Sentimentality or Nostalgia (in that she is Absolutely the equal to Karl Lagerfeld, in her disdain for remembrance of things past!) Yes, the clothes had a gentle frisson of the throwback to yesteryear, that although in no way prevented them from being right Of-The-Minute Fresh and Vibrant! A long White Cardigan jacket with Black/White Chevron trim and paired with Wide leg Trousers was giving 70's, but through the prism of now, while the Zebra print Trench that followed was Perfect for any time and era, from Austin Powers style Swinging 60's to Studio 54 70's to Grunge 90's and everywhere in betwixt!

Von Furstenberg is a Legend because.. well... SHIT! She just IS! She's lived a life even the most lucky have never been able to live, She is, in comparison, the closest thing we on earth, have to a Goddess from on High! Her clothes, Sensationally enough, seem designed to make all whom she surveys in womankind, feel exactly the Same!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Altuzarra Resort 2016.

Mon. 06/01/2015.






Oft times, it is the simplest of expressions that make the most defined impact. In the case of Joseph Altuzarra's 2016 Resort presentation, that moment occurred at Look No. 16 on Alexandra Elizabeth Lyadov, whatever Altuzarra was trying to say with the other pieces in this collection, seemed to blur into the background when this Utterly Simple, yet Perfect outfit came into view! The Salmon Pink Silk blouse paired with White Trousers of such Impeccable cut, that they have the potential to produce Tears, was so Momentous and Exquisitely Calibrated, it almost defied explanation and made one wonder how no one could have thought of this yet. Yes, it was just a Blouse and Pants... But it was, Astounding in it's simplistic nature and impact! 

So, while that outfit pushed all my buttons, Altuzarra cobbled together one of the most Impressive Resort showings thus far, if not in the top percentile! From the Opening Sublime White pantsuit with Frayed Seams to an utterly Gorgeous ensemble of a Pale Pumpkin coloured coat and Black Dress, to that same Pumpkin colour rendered in a Sexifyingly Sultry suit! Add into that mix, some Devastatingly difficult bead stringing constructed into body limning evening pieces and you have a Standout showing of Mammoth proportions! Altuzarra, like Jason Wu, Alexander Wang and Derek Lam, are all the New Lions of New York fashion, Joseph Altuzarra has a P.O.V unlike anyone else and if he keeps perfecting it in the way that he has in this collection, he will find himself amongst the Royalty of not only American Fashion, But Global Fashion! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Marissa Webb Resort 2016.

Mon. 06/01/2015.






Marissa Webb injected a dose of frilly, giddy femininity into her Military flavoured Resort 2016 collection, adding a ruffle hem and there, a double Bustle onto the back of a Army Green Fatigue jacket, paired funnily enough with matching quilted Moto pants cropped well above the ankle... Don't Worry, It worked! But Webb is smart enough not to hitch her wagon to just this one Star. There were more romantic leanings and some more Urban City looks to round things out.

Par Example, Take the way she deconstructed the Trench into Quartz Pink skirt or bisecting it into two pieces of a jacket and skirt that looked like one piece, but wasn't quite! More city ready was a FLAWLESS Striped Black/White tie-neck blouse paired with some of the most Faultlessly cut Black Cropped pants ever seen! Even more Sterling... The White Pantsuit that was Covetous in the Absolute Extreme. 

Webb is one of those designers that just GETS how Modern dressing is supposed to be, Edgy, Modern, Urban, but retaining the principles of why women get dressed for their Days and Nights. She's something of a Fashion Alchemist, she knows just how far to push the boundaries and colour outside the lines, but how also not to go off the page! That makes her offerings always Special and Worthwhile!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Donna Karan Resort 2016.

Mon. 06/01/2015.





Donna Karan Resort 2016.

In what can only be considered a Bittersweet conclusion to a long and storied career, Donna Karan's Final collection for her Eponymous label, was openly, one of her best collections to date. As of the writing of this, Karan has moved on and concentrated her skills and self on her "Urban Zen" Lifestyle label, after being deposed from her house (some say she stepped down... more truthfully, she was let go!) by the controlling investors. No one, truly knew this was the last we'd see of this label, which for now has been shuttered and the focus put firmly on Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow's shoulders at DKNY where they have been ensconced. As Swan Songs go, Gold Star, Donna!

Calling the collection "East Meets West" (Original... not really, but what the Fuck! It was her last collection she can call it whatever the Devil she likes!) and inspired by the 2015 Met Exhibition "China: Through The Looking Glass" Karan took a definite Eastern approach to more Western ideas. Usually, in Karan's hands, this would have devolved into a mess of Esoteria and Shamanistic Emo-Babble that would have unnecessarily weighed the collection down with Superfluous gravitas. Here, there was Lightness and Ease, Refreshing to the eye and senses. Tailoring of a Western mode was given Eastern touches. Obi-like sashes, Cheongsam-Style Frog Closures, Kimono draped sleeves, or sometimes, just the gently flared sway to the back of a severely cut short Blazer paired with shorts did the trick.

Evening was the saddest moment of the collection, because for the simple fact that it reminded us of how magically Karan can spin up a Bedeviling Fairy-Tale of an Evening Gown! Some of the best gowns to grace a Red Carpet or Gala in the last 20-odd years have come from these gifted hands and imagination (Remember when Karan, SINGLE-HANDED, made Devore Velvet a "THING" Again back in the Mid-90's???) She shone here once again, A Black gown in Shimmering Paillettes and Fringe and most Gasp-Inducing, A gown of Cyclamen Molten Silk that will forever live in my mind as one of the most Stunning gowns I have ever laid eyes upon!

Karan, in recent years, had OBVIOUSLY lost her way. It's not a point that can even be rationally argued. The essential building blocks and DNA of her brand had become relics, those of us missing them, seeking them out like Archaeologists in the hinterlands. This collection showed a Dynamic fusing of Old and New, somewhat in parallel to East and West, and was a Sterling success! The depressing aspect is that, with this promise of a label back on it's tracks, we will never get to see where those tracks led and where Donna was headed too... Although, if what we have is that Vivid Pink gown as the last impression of her years of design... Then, We need to count ourselves as Indescribably Lucky!





That's All.





Bye4Now!




Monday, July 18, 2016

Wes Gordon Resort 2016.

Mon. 06/01/2015.






Wes Gordon, admittedly, has a thing for 90's era Fashion. Especially of the New York sportswear designer variety. With intimations of the early, minimal/grunge portion of that decade, and also a healthy Soupcon of the mid-90's Glam, Gordon crafted his Resort 2016 collection upon these principles. It was an Upbeat and "Happy" (according to the designer) showing with some pieces that will be quickly coveted by loyalists and newbies alike. 

Some of the collection felt a tad too, meandering, as if some of the clothes were not really jelling in with the rest of the outfits... But, those moments were few, yet enough to distract. Gordon found the most success when he kept things Classy and didn't try to relax too much, Gordon is not at his best when his clothes try to emote edgy and offbeat. He's at his peak, when he's deconstructing the codes of what is Modern Luxe and finding his own uniquely Stylish variations on that theme. Like the simply divine combo of a Crimson Red Suede coat with a Camel Fine-Rib knit skirt. Quiet, Refined, but altogether Sumptuous! Also, take for example, the Coat/Jacket and matching dress in Khaki Double-face Cotton which had Grunge and Minimal working together harmoniously. 

The Beautiful Schlaepfer Lace of St. Gallen, Switzerland, was a Welcome addition and added a bit of punchy colour to the not-so-subdued palette and a bit of 90's quirk! Gordon gave a strong effort with this collection, one that most often, succeeded brilliantly. Though the one problem that can be foreseen, at some point, Gordon must reconcile the halves of his aesthetic, either the Inheritor of the crown as the new Prince of Uptown chic, or a 90's loving quirkster... he can be either, with great talent to spare in whichever hemisphere he decides, but he cannot be both! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Adam Lippes Resort 2016.

Mon. 06/01/2015.






While generally, the first things that comes to mind with the mention of Cuba, are Castro and steamy, colourful Latin/Tropical exotica, That wasn't exactly what sprang into Adam Lippes mind when he took inspiration for his Resort 2016 collection from the Caribbean island country. He said he had visited the land some two decades ago and it had left an impression that has stayed with him these many years, his collection, if inspired by Tropical land, it was only lightly. There was little outwardly obvious to point to Cuba as it's jumping off point and that may be why the collection felt a tad underdeveloped.

Leather was a dominant factor in this collection and looked great in slouchy trousers and in a Smashing Dark Olive Raincoat or a minimalistic Avocado Green belted Jacket. Some Tangy colours crept their way into the collection too, A Searing Tabasco Red was certainly eye-catching and a Piquant Citron colour was welcome, especially in a Fluid gown made for the sultry Havana nights! An Ink Blue Satin Coat-Dress was also giving much reason to be admired! 

In the end, Lippes' collection didn't come off as very much Cuban, but it did come across as Perfectly Wearable. And when it's all said and done, isn't that the purpose of clothes to begin with?





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tory Burch Resort 2016.

Mon. 06/01/2015.






In a Charming and Fashionable take on a Southwestern inspiration, Tory Burch's Resort 2016 collection was fresh and unique enough to pique interest, though still fully fueled with the Tory Burch brand DNA to not scare away anyone looking for Burch's sort of Urbane, Urban Sportif Luxe! The collection didn't reinvent anything we know in the way of Burch standards, Smart, Clean, Psuedo-Minimal Bohemian with a bit of Hampton's thrown in. This time she supplanted her woman in Native American motifs and Desert-y shades inspired by Southwest landscapes. While successful, it wasn't the most daring, and for that, it wasn't also the most exciting. 

Some pieces did get the blood pumping, and there was a refreshing sense of Visual stimuli in a multitude of prints and patterns as well as lavish embroideries done with a airy and light hand. The best things were those that spoke to days in the City and to those moments when you just need to get away, a flattering 60's influenced (the whole collection felt very 60's inflected) Car Coat in Parchment and Stone with a Rust stripe bisecting it. A simply shaped gown smothered in Embroidery had a Talitha Getty feel to it that was spot on, as did the Final look, a Gorgeous Strapless gown in Periwinkle and Blush, that was a Showstopper. 

Burch didn't reinvent herself here, But she offered solid, desirable clothes to take anywhere, at anytime and that will keep her clients in the know that they are well dressed at all times. That, In and of itself, is a Great Thing!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

DKNY Resort 2016.

Fri. 05/29/2015.






What exactly Donna Karan presented for her DKNY Resort 2016 collection, still remains a mystery to me. It was... Well... It was Terrible. It was Plain, and Odd! NOT, a good combination. Nothing felt like it was designed for any woman, of any time! It skewed Idiosyncratic and not in the best usage of that word. Off proportions, Sheer and Solid mixed to disagreeable effect, Overscale slouchiness and just no attention to what makes a woman look less like she's escaped an mental institution and more like she's a Fashionista with edge! 

Few and Far between moments of sanity revealed Karan's legendary skills, a Milk White Coat and Sweater set with Velvet (VELVET...???) Sweatpants had ample possibility as did the Violet Sequin shift with Sheer overlay paired with skinny ankle cropped pants, a thoroughly modern take on Evening if ever there was one. The Rest? Best not to mention. It's an embarrassment for Karan and did not show her in her best light. As of the writing of this, it is well known Karan was Deposed from her label(s) by the new owners of her company, perhaps that she knew this was coming shadowed this collection and gave it it's hopeless and dour nature. One would have to wish that that was the case, for the alternative is depressingly more sad!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Oscar De La Renta Resort 2016.

Thurs. 05/28/2015.






There isn't much to say about Peter Copping's sophomore collection for the House of ODLR. After his rather Magnificent Debut showing for Fall 2015, he's off to a great start and his Resort 2016 collection simply shows him following the path laid before him by the Fashion God that was Oscar, and that while he isn't deviating too wildly from the course, he isn't at all afraid to inject his view of fashion into the DNA of the house and create a new De La Renta language! He is achieving that mostly by taking it slow and easing the customer and critic into this new world. Resort was a Stunning display of the principles of the house beginning to be bent towards Coppings' will! 

Copping showed a Restrained Joie de Vivre in this presentation, with some Flamenco like flair (Always an Oscar Favorite) and a Positive and Joyous love and sense of Colour, from a Marigold Dance Dress tickled by Black Lace, to an Infanta worthy Ballgown of Fuchsia Faille and Black beaded Lace! Opulence was never in short shrift either, even if it was stripped back some from the house usual, A Black Beaded dress with a Navy Sway caped back was Drama Plus, even with it's shortened hemline, a short, strapless Vermilion Red dress with a flounce hem was substantially smothered in Sequins and Bugle Beads!

Yet, some of the best statements did not need in any way to shout for attention, they commanded it by being perfectly judged and calculated pieces of Sartorial Perfection. The Vermilion Red suit with the Ruffle collar, a White halter neck gown with flowing sprigs of Multicolour Floral embroidery, and a truly Breath Stealing Turquoise Shantung ballgown that Blew one's Mind! Copping seems to have found his Groove Quickly and Handily. The clothes show no sign of being anything less than faithful to Oscar's guiding principles, but they are also not Slavish copies of old glories. Copping is making ODLR Modern and proposing a new way of looking at the Hallmarks of the house without desecrating them. A Wondrous happenstance for all!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Fendi Resort 2016.

Tues. 05/26/15.






It started in the Fall 2015 Fendi show, the peeks of the Spiky, Extra-Terrestrial looking Bird-Of-Paradise flowers, sticking out of the handbags in that show, adding a little bit of unhinged exotica to the collection and what Lagerfeld called, "Pleasant Aggresivity" He used that phrase again as the Jumping-Off-Point for his and Silvia Venturini-Fendi's 2016 Resort collection. This Resort collection had everything in it that could be wanted or asked for by the Fendi regulars and non-regulars alike! Technical wizardry is Stock-and-Trade for Fendi, having facilities that can bring to life all that Lagerfeld and Venturini-Fendi can dream up with shocking acumen! 

Here, the technical prowess was evident all over, Matelasse quilting which looked achieved by machine was actually woven into material as a print, White Birds-Of-Paradise flowers were laser cut out of Leather or Fur and inset into A Gilet or a Blazer giving a Shadow-like effect, Mink and Denim were suffused together in a Trench that looked for all it was worth like the Plushest French Terry known to mankind! There was yet, MORE, but to delve into all the dazzling techniques and manipulations is to take away much of the nuance and subtlety of the clothes, Lagerfeld and Venturini-Fendi don't expend all this effort for it to be a Dissertation on the skill and exactitude of their craftsmanship, the clothes are to be worn and lived with to experience all their wonder, Suffice it to say, the Multihued Fox and Mink coat with the word "Fendi" intarsiaed into the front of the coat is a sight to behold! 

There was plenty here to absorb and digest, as is the case with any Fendi collection, Admittedly, there was a certain sense of Freedom and Edgy, Giddy Delight flourishing during this outing, maybe the Exotic nature of the Bird-Of-Paradise flower gave Lagerfeld license to play a bit more than usual, one cannot be sure, however, what evidence that was provided by the clothes seems to suggest, a good time was had, and WILL BE had, By All!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Burberry Resort 2016.

Thurs. 05/21/2015.






Being that the Trench is the Bread-and-Butter heritage of the house of Burberry, you can always bet your bottom Pound Sterling that Christopher Bailey, (CEO and Creative Director) will offer witty and inventive twists and takes on the staple. Resort 2016 offered some of the best variants seen in some time from the house and as well stayed true to it's Romantically Boho-Urban Hippy/Hipster look that it has perfected, What was more surprisingly on tap was a luxurious and artisanal bent to much of the clothes that incorporated shaved feathers, intricate lace and exacting basket weaving and macrame that lent an almost Rococo sensibility to some pieces (Most evidently in a Stunning Gold T-shirt dress done in an exceptionally difficult and multi form style at Look No. 16!)

As mentioned there were feathers, shaved down to resemble fur and done in a deceptive animal style that looked like a print, but wasn't. It achieved it's best moment in again, the house signature, A Trench! And Lace abounded aplenty, as the insets on the side of a Black Chesterfield, rendered out of Punchwork and Broderie Anglaise in an Ivory Trench, Shown under a Zebra print fur in Bold, Black Guipure and most brilliantly in a Architectural Cafe Au Lait Guipure Trench that definitely will be heading to the closets of many Burberry loyalists! 

A final smattering of Bloomsbury worthy Boho gowns rounded things out convincingly, the Finale dress in Black Lace was the best of the bunch and had something of that Puritanical, Chaste Chiuri/Piccioli Valentino vibe to it, but was far and away sexier and less ascetic! Bailey's Burberry of late has been one mess of misses after another, each collection feeling as stagnant and redundant as the last and falling essentially flat. Here, he corrected that trajectory and it made for a Fabulous Outing full of delectations for his clients to indulge in. Hopefully he can keep the Leviathan that is Burberry heading down this path of renewal! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Max Mara Resort 2016.

Weds. 05/20/2015.






While claiming that London was the inspiration for the collection, seeing as the show coincided with the opening of their new boutique on Old Bond Street, Max Mara's Resort 2016 presentation was all over the place and didn't pin down exactly whether it wanted to be a Winter Wonderland resort collection or a Warn Weather Getaway kind of show! What with, Fur Aviator-cum-Trapper hats on all the exits, Thick Fur scarves, and yes, even Fur coats on the one hand, Leather Boxing Trunks and Sunny Beach colours and Floral prints on the other. The way the collection was styled... It looked like it was more geared toward Bulking up one's Pre-Fall wardrobe more than say giving aspirational clothes to travel in. 

Given that there was such a Mixed Message going about, the collection proved to be pretty much exactly what a customer comes to Max Mara for, Great Suiting and Exceptional Coats in everything from the Finest Cashmere to Mink, Fox and other furry woodland creatures. The biggest message was somehow, Cross-seasonal indeed, Leather (usually) Boxing Trunks over micro skinny trousers, as witnessed in the first exit. Chalk Stripes gave off a strong statement of Business, most memorable, Aamito Lagum's outfit at Exit No. 3 which was perhaps the DEFINING look of the entire collection. It. Was. FLAWLESS! Elsewhere, slim, long skirts abounded as did Precisely Tailored Pantsuits (So Refreshing) As was the overblown Rose print that looked like optical art, looking best in a Raspberry ensemble topped by a Sheared Mink coat in deepest Auburn!

Generally, there wasn't much to balk at here, the main problem was more of a confused nature to what season the collection wanted to firmly tackle. It didn't exactly read Balmy, nor did it fully say Ski Season, Either. Maybe it's the New Resort, the kind of woman who doesn't need to get away to relax, she's a woman who can Staycation in her stomping grounds and dress for the City she lives in, whatever the Temperature may choose to be! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Saturday, July 2, 2016

Boss Resort 2016.

Tues. 05/19/2015.






Jason Wu has faltered hard in his tenure so far at Boss. He has tried to enmesh himself in the DNA of the house and within that context, suppress all the things that make him such a great designer. It's not been a Pretty affair, but it has shown glimmers of hope. His 2016 Resort collection is just such a glimmer. It was, insofar, his best collection for the house to date, Back to Front. While so far his tenure has been hallmarked by awkward ideas and weakness of vision, here, the collection was Strong, Cohesive and Natural. Wu left the tricks to kids and ushered forth a collection for a woman that is all business! 

A swirling Animal print in shades of Pale Blue enlivened greatly the pieces they were splashed upon, while a print that Wu said was inspired by Sand Dunes did the same thing with a more Graphic nature, especially Snappy in a Belted trench! Some Razor-Sharp suiting and a severe, pure line kept the rest of the collection Bold and Streamlined with little muss or fuss, executed in shades of Hothouse Tomato Red and Black, everything felt ready for the takedown at any moment's notice! Just Marvel, truly MARVEL at the Insanely Chic Red wrap coat of Look 16! Perfection! No doubts about it! Add in some relaxing Beige near the end, and a couple of Arty White dresses and you have a Resort collection that most women will take well into their Vacations and Beyond. These pieces are destined for more than a getaway... They're destined to become Staples! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!