Marni.

Sun. 03/01/2015.

Marni.

It comes across as something of a Major Shock to the System when one peruses the Fall 2015 Marni collection only to find that Fashions No. 1 Eclectic Eccentric Boho Magpie has not only gone Streamlined, but (*GASP!*) MINIMAL! Oh, Dear! Where's the nearest Fainting Couch? From the moment the Fall Marni show got underway, we knew we were not in the same Vivid glade that is per usual for Consuela Castiglioni! In fact, with all the Raw Edges and Severe Styling, if it weren't for the Shaggy Cave Woman furs and the inevitable 50's wallpaper floral prints so customary of the house, one might have mistaken this collection for Jil Sander or something... NOT, Marni! 

SO, it was with a newly minimalistic eye and an inspiration of "Twisted Femininity" that Castiglioni shook out most all of the Hippy influences and proposed something far more Austere and far less Exotic. Sharp, Detail devoid coats and tunics, worn with nothing more than a wide belt or Swath of Fur! Narrow, limb limning pants and near shapeless dresses defined again by those wide belts. Even Castiglioni's colour selection spoke of restraint and sobriety. Earthy hues of Brown matched with White, Black and shades of Beige to open with some Savage furs thrown into the mix to keep things a bit unsettled. Then, Castiglioni began to let her natural inner proclivities shine through as Scarlet and Umber and juxtaposed against Charcoal and Wheat, lending that slight edge of the unhinged to the mix.

As Castiglioni rounded the bases towards Home, Her colours became more Murky and Unsentimental, especially when one considers these colours were used on her favorite Prints, they lent a whole new flavour to the proceedings and Kept the agitation level high... one couldn't firmly get a bead on where exactly Castiglioni was headed, but we knew we were there along for the ride and loving every minute of it. It was a positively giddy experience, even as the Flourishes and Embellishment began to seep back in near the end, what had gone before all that, made this acquiescence to her Safe Zone even more welcome, because it painted an interesting Dichotomy of what was New and what was Old. In the end, Castiglioni, with nary a trace of sentiment and a stringent detachment, opened up a door to a world of new possibilities for the Marni Woman. How far she decides to travel in the lands outside that door is up to her... however the thought of what might lay out in those Hinterlands is Provocative, Indeed! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Emilio Pucci.

Sat. 02/28/2015.

Emilio Pucci.

It was pretty much a Done Deal by the time of Fashion Presentation, that this was going to be Peter Dundas' final hurrah at the house of Emilio Pucci. As far as farewells go, it was pretty much Standard Operating Procedures for Dundas at the house. The collection didn't push the collection any further nor did it exactly regress. It was, as per usual, a Super Sexy, Bohemian tinged, Phantasmagoria of Chiffon, Velvet, Beads, Sequins, Scarves and Furs, all signatures of Dundas in his 7 years at the house. 

With a overarching theme of the Zodiac to provide difference for this season's collection, Dundas expounded on this idea in Giant Astrological sign motifs splashed across Sweaters and the finale parade of evening gowns. While reaching for the stars may have been Dundas' intent, the reality was far more gimmicky and unfortunately, Redundant, We've seen this all before from Dundas, and seen it done better. The Boho frippery and froth and drippy fringe are all stock and trade for the house. It may have been beautiful, however it was also Predictable, one would have liked to have seen Dundas, knowing this was his last collection, improve upon his signature ideas rather than a rote recycling of all his greatest hits with some Zodiac signs and splashed across them.

While saying all this, there were moments of Dazzling Beauty, an asymmetric Chiffon dress in a Deep shade of Blood Red on Joan Smalls was Outstanding, Also, a Combo in Scarlet Chiffon and Russet Velvet on Iris Strubegger was Chic, Simple and Luxurious all at once. The rest, Glam... Check! Sexy... Check! Something we've not seen before... we'll just let that one linger in the ether for now! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Aquilano.Rimondi.

Sat. 02/28/2015.

Aquilano.Rimondi.

In a word... SUCCESS! Tomaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi finally recaptured that Deliciously Extravagant and Irreverent, slightly Unhinged spirit that used to suffuse their work and make it the Kooky, Quirky Fabulous stuff that it used to be. The Fall 2015 Aquilano.Rimondi show was pretty much Dazzling and Flawless from Front to Back. The polarity between Mannish Severeness and Whimsical Eccentricity was Exciting and Imaginative. It's been some while since Aquilano and Rimondi hit such a Perfect Sweet Spot.

The Clean, Spare, Architectural simplicity of most of the collection was thrown askew by not-so-subtle details like Grommets or Glinting Metal sequins, and if not embellishment giving the Spice needed to keep things from being Banal, then it was sheerness keeping things deliciously unsettled and a small bit salacious! Also, the Skewing of the proportions on Suits and Jackets, most cut well above the Navel, and many other items were belted even higher, creating a unique silhouette that was Fresh and Innovative and surprisingly youthful and imbued with a Modern Sophistication.

Aquilano and Rimondi employed a restrained palette of Black, Grey and Navy with touches of White to keep things austere and in that, made all those Glinting, Shining Metallic elements look all the more eccentric, especially in a Belted Coat made entirely from all those Metal Sequins was especially provocative! Finally, after many years of faltering, quixotic and flat out Befuddling collections, Not only have Aquilano and Rimondi gotten their groove back, they found themselves. They found that Offbeat, Strangely Eclectic, refined signature that has missing from their work, It was a Glorious Showing of Immense Talent and Skill and brought a Breathless sense of Joy to one's Heart! Fabuleux!





That's All.





Bye4Now!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

Jil Sander.

Sat. 02/28/2015.

Jil Sander.

One can often find their Strongest and Loudest voice in Simplicity. Rodolfo Paglialunga did just that for his Fall 2015 Lineup for Jil Sander. Purity of Line and a Strict Adherence to (Virtually) No-Nonsense clothes made the collection have a Walloping impact that sent Frissons up and down one's spine. It was a Veritable feast of Clean, Pure, Lean, Spare Ascetic Masterpieces, Focusing mainly on Long, Severe coat, this piece was the basis of most of the best looks in the show. In either the Inky, Tanzanite Blue version that opened the show, Collarless, Wrap Waisted, Essential. Or in a Boning Knife thin Trench version on Alexandra Elizabeth in Vellum Leather that caused the heart to flutter. 

It didn't end there, Sleek Dresses that had equally the feel of Francisco Costa and Raf Simons, (the Simons association was hard to miss, especially in the Black Mink that set atop Chino coloured trousers that brought to mind Simons Fall 2014 Dior Couture collection!) but here the personality was certainly tweaked to suit Paglialunga's Inclinations... The Artistic Zeal, The Ascetic Sparseness, which one could posit, Costa and Simons actually inherited from Sander herself (Simons did helm Sander before he sailed to Dior's shores! One to think on!)

The Suits and Dresses followed the lead of the Coats, while the Separates were more, Extrovert and perhaps even, Eccentric. These more offhanded pieces balanced out a collection that could have been too reserved, Save for the Bold choices in Colour, had they not been incorporated into the mix. As was being mentioned though, the Suits were Scalpel Sharp and Cut to Perfection, Like the Boyish Black Pantsuit with the Searing Tabasco Red top and Squash Yellow blouse underneath, or on the Dress front, the Immaculate one on Tami Williams at Exit No. 19.

 

Paglialunga showed a Studied and Pristine collection, one that had Verve within it's Quietude and Chicness in it's Taciturn Minimalism! It was a Stunner, a Winner. A Showstopper! More like this and Paglialunga might just elevate Jil Sander back to it's Lofty Perch of olden days!

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Roberto Cavalli.

Sat. 02/28/2015.

Roberto Cavalli.

Ocelot Prints, Chinoiserie, Cutouts, not necessarily new ground being trod by Italian designer Roberto Cavalli at his house for Fall 2015. The clothes were not exactly boring or repetitious, though they did suffer from a certain scent of the Familiar. Cavalli's collection was as Feline Sleek and Sexy as always, however, the feeling that Cavalli was just treading water until the New Sheriff in town comes along and breathes some new life into the label. 

As it is known, this would be Cavalli's last collection as House designer, he will not be leaving the company he has been at the helm of for more than 30 years, Peter Dundas, of Pucci, became his successor in the Fall of 2015 designing the Spring 2016 collection and making this Cavalli's Swan Song. As Swan Songs go, it fell a little flat. The collection felt flat and inert, there were exciting moments, but this could have been any number of Milanese Designers collections. The personality felt either radically subdued, or totally drained from the proceedings. Even with the Wong Kar-Wai/ "In The Mood For Love" inspiration to bolster it.

Per usual, the clothes were all living up to Cavalli's Exacting, Demi-Couture standards, Exceptional Fit and Cut, Elaborate detail and embellishment, Lush and Expensive materials abound, making the endeavour not a total wash, Still and all, it didn't cause anything above a Gentle Excitation, no Full-On Ecstasy here. And, to be sure, much of the last 1/3 of the collection could have been scrapped... especially those fringed pieces... WHAT THE HELL? Just, NO! With a Capital NO!

At this writing we all of you, fair readers have seen what Dundas' Debut at the house was like and whatever the opinions on that (my review to come) this collection felt like it was waiting for something to happen and coalesce that never came to fruition. Was it Bad? Hardly! But the better question to ask is... Was it Great, The same answer from beforehand applies.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Bottega Veneta.

Sat. 02/28/2015.

Bottega Veneta.

It was a curious Bottega Veneta collection for Fall 2015. Architectural lines and Graphic Dots and Grid Plaids gave a Modernistic edge to the collection that was juxtaposed against a Louche easiness which gave a rather meandering scope to the collection. Tomas Maier seemed to be strolling from Decade to Decade, plucking ideas from each and creating a magpie effect. While it created a rather esoteric effect, the overall impression was one of Aimlessness. The clothes at times were Fierce and Masterful upon occasion, but ultimately felt a trifle unfocused... Sharp SQUARED Shoulders and Solid blocks of colour worked at odds against Graphic Dots... 60's Mod jackets and Capes stood against 70's-style secretary Ascot neck blouses paired with Lacy Sweater Vests.

The biggest deficiency of the collection were those Dots, where as Maier wanted the look to be Resolute, it looked overdone to the extreme. In small doses or deconstructed into separate pieces, they would work as bold pieces integrated into a woman's wardrobe, but stacked monothematically as they were, it just looked somewhat comical, and not in a funny way. Where Maier did score was when he Pared back and focused on Cut and Shape... a Tunic in Lime and Mallard Green with an angular track of Gold piping over Caramel coloured slacks hit one of the highest points, A Black Pantsuit on Anna Cleveland was a Genius work of Purity and Chic. 

Even with the hiccups and optical overload, Maier put forth a collection full of his, as usual, Brilliant pieces and Artistic Vivre. It was not the easiest collection to digest, But it certainly pushed the bounds of the Bottega Veneta language and that is always a good thing. The effort didn't pay off the richest of dividends, but trying something new is never a bad thing. The Result may not have been Sterling, but the Exercise alone was worthwhile in the utmost. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Versace.

Fri. 02/27/2015.




Versace.

Sometimes, We must mine the past to create a more Viable future, Keeping in mind that we cannot recreate the past, that we can only improve on it or rearrange it, so to speak. As the Fall 2015 Versace show came to a Raucous close, that bit of wisdom snapped firmly into focus as Donatella Versace's new collection scintillatingly proved that the Past can either Haunt and Stifle us, or, as the show envisaged, it can be a learning tool and Set us Free as we look forward into the light of what is Now! DV took old Iconic Gianni-isms and raided the Archives once more, (She seems to do her best work when she is re-envisioning the Colossal past of her near 20 years late brother) and come back with some of Gianni's late 80's-early 90's Crystallized embellishments spelling out the famous Surname and crafting some downright Raunchy, Sexy Evening pieces... As it should be at Casa Versace!

On the surface, and there was a WHOLE LOT of Surface, Donatella was nodding and winking and Nudge-Nudging to the Social Media world with her Emoticons, Emojis and "@" Sign deocrations, including a Whimsical take on the Versace "Medusa" symbol that now has become it's own Emoji. This was coupled with a Trotting out of the Greek Key motif so famed of the house and were dovetailed together A La her Spring '15 Atelier collection, where both of these motifs were showcased previously. Where it was more Va-Va-Va-Voom racy for Spring Atelier, Here it was more Sophisticated, and more Outlandish, especially in the case of a Eyeball twister of a Greek Key print in Black and White and Multicolours jumbled all together in Hedonistic Cacophony!

aside from these outliers, the collections main focus was Black or Top-to-Toe Primary Colour... Red and Yellow mostly, but some Day-Glo Green as well. Within this Blackness we were given Sharp Suiting with Neon Pinstripes of Colour, Swingy coats and a more than a Dollop of 60's Mod being brought to the party. It worked because it was so Self-Assured and Never wavered in it's commitment to Serving up Sharp Sleekness and Sexiness! But as aforementioned, It was those "VERSACE" Beaded pieces at the end that truly... Stole The Show!

They Hearkened back to when Gianni did the exact same thing on Gowns and Dresses he did in his 1989 Atelier collection, the lettering is even the same, but where Gianni's had a certain... AHEM... Classiness, Donatella's 2015 version is pure Sass! Short, Tight and Sparkly with a fair bit of Trashy! In saying all that, they also were Outrageously Joyous and Fantastic!

When Donatella tempers past glories with modern ones, Her One-Two punch is always a Knockout! She needs to stop trying to live beyond her brother's work and embrace it more, as those Greek Key prints and "VERSACE" Beaded letters proved, She is all too capable of not sinking into the Quicksand trap of Nostalgia and doing things Adamantly her way. The more she does this, she shall find, the stronger her own voice becomes!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tod's

Fri. 02/27/2015





Tod's

From the opening Makeup Pink Leather Moto coat to the closing straight coat in a Geometric printed pieced Nubbly Pink Shearling, Tod's house designer, Alessadra Facchinetti traced Pure, Clean line from beginning to end to create a Stunning Masterpiece of a collection for Fall 2015 for the house. It was certainly the best of her collections so far and also the most varied and eclectic, yet focused and honed to Subtle Perfection!

The most positive development to come from this collection was Facchinetti's decision to focus less on Leather and add cloth to the proceedings in abundance, from Warm, Textural Wools and Cashmeres, to Denim and Knits. This added much dimension to the Tod's collection, which as lovely as they have been, actually have been too reliant on and Heavy-Handed with the Leather and Suede work... Yes, Tod's is a Leather house, but Facchinetti is producing clothing, and as Awesome as her focus on La Cuir was... There was certainly room to expand beyond that narrow shore.

Filled with Giddy, Makeup-y Nude Shades contrasting against Richer, more Burnished hues lent a delicate play on Balance and Colour. Cocoa Brown existed with Mauve and Stone while Blood Red played against Suntan and Toast. Facchinetti chose to continue with print, and while it was Tropical and easy for Spring, here the Floral prints were more Botanic and Deliciously Gaudy. As Counterpoint, there were the subtle Geometrics that sprang up here and there.

Facchinetti hit Home Runs often in this showing, A Snowy White topper with Appliqued jeweled "Badges" and "Whipstitch" Leather trim around the Collar and Border of the Placket was a Piece to inspire Genuine Lust! Also, a Cocoa Brown Leather dress with Delicate, yet Intricate geometric cutouts was a Thing of Beauty. There were many others worthy of mention in this Cavalcade of Excellence, but Brevity demands that the buck stops here!

In a Word, Sensational! A Personal Best for Ms. Facchinetti at the house of Tod's and one of the very best of the season. Facchinetti has been proving she is now the perfect fit at the house that Della Valle built on Nubble soled Driving loafers... Not it would seem, To Coin a Phrase, That Alessandra Facchinetti is in the Driver's Seat!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Iceberg.

Fri. 02/27/2015.

Iceberg.

A Sleek, Streamlined, Sporty and Modern collection with just enough hints of Ghesquiere-era Balenciaga to make the Fashion press like it, the Fall 2015 Iceberg collection was Clean and Ready for wearing with little to distract from the clothes other than some Bold choices of Colour and some interesting materials. There were also some 3-D Flower adornments at the end, but they had nothing of the precious connotations usually associated with such decorous accentuations. 

Some Crinkly Nylon-ish Zipper coats stood out and played into the Aviator motif being wrangled by Iceberg designer Alexis Martial (in which this would be his last collection for the house, as he has taken residence at the House of Carven when it's seat was left Empty by Guillame Henry who moved onto Nina Ricci upon Peter Copping's Decampment to Oscar) Another Whip-Smart outfit was a Belted Pantsuit in what looked to be Denim with Zippered Leather Patch pockets... That one was Winning everything it attempted! 

In the end, It wasn't a lot to get highly excited about, but it was a Pleasing and Sharp Coda for Martial's Influential seasons at the house. He Single-Handedly revived the house and made it ready for some more new blood to infuse it with further freshness! If he can follow the same plan and take Carven to the Next Step, Martial will in no time be Camera Ready for his Close-Up, Mr. De Mille! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Etro.

Fri. 02/27/2015.





Etro.

Fall 2015 was a Bonanza of Texture, Colour, Print and Adornment for the house of Etro. Veronica Etro took a "Controlled Maximalism" view to her collection for the family house that centered on Rich, Lavish Interior decor patterns and detailing. From Patchwork to Foulard Silks and Paisleys, Deco Prints, Tweedy Plaids and Pinstripes, Lush Materials and Baroque Abundance flowed seamlessly together to confluence into a Wildly eccentric whole!

Keeping her palette to Warm, Rich, Exotic Spicy colours helped transport the onlooker to a place Far Away, A Souk in Marrakesh, or some Spice Bazaar in Abu Dhabi... The intricacy was as abundant as the Variety, never did one look seem to replicate another. The wild abandon shown was not only Refreshing, but Uplifting and positive in it's complexity and unabashed indulgence. It may have had something of that 70's flavour accenting it, but it felt resolutely Moderne!

As visually busy as most of the clothes were and as much as they would need a Woman of much Daring to where them in the Tip-to-Toe permutations that Ms. Etro sent them down the catwalk in, broken down and individualized, Etro's bounty of Lavish pieces could translate into any closet and give a Luxurious boost to some staid basics of Ye Olde that are in need of airing out and more desperate need of Contemporizing.

In all, Veronica Etro and her Design team (which like the Missoni's consist of many Family members and siblings) has started to outpace her past and head straight into a new and Fashion Forward Future. Continuing to produce collections such as this will certainly keep them at the front lines of the Fashion Relevant.





That's All.





Bye4Now!