L'Wren Scott.

Sun. 09/14/2013.










L'Wren Scott.

So, it would seem for Spring 2014 L'Wren Scott was having something of a Anna May Wong moment and yes... it was quite Amazing. It was one of Scott's Best Shows. Her opening Exit, A Gorgeous Embroidered Cheongsam style dress was smothered in Silk Thread Wisteria. A Smashing Opening!

From there Scott worked the Asian Persuasion Motif Every which way! Obi belts, Chopine style shoes and other Japonica... She also lavished some of her pieces with Sequins and Embroidery. The Simplest though were some of the most amazing... A White Off-Shoulder Dress just Tickled with Red Embroidery at Exit No. 19 or the Black Dress with the floral embroidery on the shoulders at Exit No. 22.

The Final two exits were Stunners of the Highest Magnitude! Exit No. 30 could double EASILY as a Wedding Gown or a Red Carpet Shocker in it's Icy White-on-White Wisteria Embroidery, It was Achingly Beautiful and The finale Pantsuit in White and Mandarin Red with the same Wisteria Embroidery as the opening Closed the show with a Statement. Scott showed she has earned her stripes with this Confident Collection! It was A Smash and Her Skills continue to grow and Flourish, here's to seeing more of this L'Wren Scott!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Preen By Thornton Bergazzi And Mulberry.

Sun. 09/15/2013.

Preen By Thornton Bergazzi.

Caught between Future Modern and Sporty Modern, Thornton Bergazzi's Preen Collection for Spring 2014 was just a Complicated and Uneven Disappointment. Keeping in the Spring 2014 colour of the season, White, White and did I mention... WHITE... this collection stayed the path of the non-colour with an almost Fanatical devotion. It didn't help the collection and it didn't help to save the collection either. Most outfits came off as Disjointed, Awkward and Overdone. Too much going on in even the simplest of outfits. 

Overly Angular could also be a criticism thrown at the collection as well. Had the Geometric/Floral printed pieces that opened the show been cut in less tricky ways they would have been stunning for the prints themselves were quite Genius and would have been elevated by less complex construction. And that White Dress with the Anorak attached at the Shoulders at Exit No. 4 could have held promise, had the hem not look like it had a run in with a Paper Shredder. A rather simple Shift dress in the aforementioned Print at Exit No. 9 was perhaps the easiest piece in the collection and offered a brief respite! 

As the collection advanced, Colour came out to play. Shocking Pink, Highlighter Yellow, Bubble Gum, Frost Pink, And also a Touch of Baby Blue. The finale went home on a Refreshing break of colour in Black and White and a Positive/Negative version of the floral print shown earlier. It wasn't a saving grace, it wasn't exactly even pretty, but it gave a grounding effect to all that had come earlier. 

This is one of those collections that was going to engender very pointed reactions... Either it was Seen as Ahead of it's time and Experimental and Cool, Or that it was just a missed opportunity to use some beautiful optical/floral prints in some less than stellar clothes. The prints and were the highlight... Beautiful as they were they were masked by Convoluted Ideas! 

Mulberry.

Emma Hill's Swan Song for the House of Mulberry didn't wallow in Nostalgia nor did it really tread any new ground. The most that could be said that it was... Uneven. It had high and lows but not a consistent sense of excitement. It started with a textured floral Cloque top coat and shorts that was Tailored but casual. A bit more of the Cloque and then some repetitious Tonal Stripe tops and bottoms that could have been edited back a little.

The Naive floral print that showed up had a Marni feel to it and was not the best vehicle showcase the sporty clothes they were splashed on. It was most effective on Exit No. 18 when scaled back and left to accent the A-Line shift dress. As an aside... why show the same snap front short sleeve blouson THREE Times in Black, White and Persimmon Orange? It proved no point other than to show Hill's Powers of Redundancy!

There were a few dazzlers here and there, Especially Exit No. 26 which featured thick stripe sections of sequins with that Floral pattern done in beads down the sides of the dress, also the final Four Exits were Delightfully Gorgeous in Snowy White on White! 

Again, Hill wasn't pushing any envelopes... The Mulberry clientele will be happy as larks over the offerings here... but if Hill wanted to leave a mark that will put the fear of the Lord into her successor, she fell well short of the mark. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

House Of Holland

Sat. 09/14/2013.

House Of Holland.

CHARMING! For a designer like Henry Holland, Not a word one would use with Aplomb! But for Spring 2014... Tres Charmant! Opening with a Delightfully Pretty Shirtdress with Overblown Rose accents at the sleeves, hem and neck, It just radiated Youth and Vitality!

Holland said he was inspired greatly by the Baz Luhrmann Film "William Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet" And for a movie as decidedly uninspiring as that tragedy of a tragedy Holland created something deeply joyful. Using A Rough Twill Chino fabric for the opening passage grounded the pieces in the here and now and knocked a little of the sweetness out of the pieces which in the wrong material could have come off saccharine.

The mini dress in Pink that followed the opening was emblazoned with the Heart emblem from the aforementioned movie, it wasn't unflattering nor diminishing to the brief dress but was a trifle literal. That emblem would show up with surprising frequency in the collection and even though it was not a distraction it wasn't an enhancement either.

Exit No. 4 was another Trench of note in a season of Noteworthy Trenches! Taking the same tack as the opening exit it was Brilliant! An embellished Mini Leopard print Bustier dress with accents of the Latin Flowers was giving of an air of Dolce and Gabbana which perfumed the entire collection in a good way! From there we progressed through a Retina Melting cloud print in Screaming shades of Red and Pink overlaid with another Movie Emblem inspired print to Mixed media Gingham checks of Searing shades and  different sizes. One passage in particular was a glorious relief... A Paper Bag coloured section of dresses with a Inky Blue Rose print that was moody and sure-handed!

Also on the D&G Radar... those Burning Heart Madonna appliques were Striking and Whimsical yet had a Delicious perverse edge to them that Stefano and Domenico would never invoke! Finishing up with the cloud print in a softer colour scheme Holland gave us a Cheery and Stylish that mixed the Refined and the Quirky into a Magical Mix... it left one Smiling. Not much more could anyone ask of a Collection!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

J.W. Anderson.

Sat. 09/14/2013.

J.W. Anderson.

Well Hello, Ugly! This was one of the most Epically Misjudged fashion affairs of the Spring 2014 season. Yes, it was experimental, Experimentation is GOOD! Experimentation pushes fashion forward.  But sometimes experimentation can lead to Disaster. And this was a Bloody Massacre! 

Anderson is one of those new Darlings of the fashion cognoscenti and has that aura right now that he can do as he pleases and the fashion powers that be are gonna be throwing accolades his way fast and thick. As predicted, this collection won him raves and for what, Only The Lord Above can answer that one! With Frumpy Sheer layers to open and then odd convolutions of fabric and ruching the collection didn't start off Pleasantly! How do I then begin to explain the Molded, Pleated Herringbone textured leather outfit in Black at Exit No. 7...??? I cannot. 

I am not going to spend scores of type on this Absolute Failure of a collection. The combinations and trickiness added up to a Frighteningly, Nee SHOCKINGLY Bizarre and Uncomfortably Disturbing collection. One that will find it's fans in only the most Avant of the Avant-Garde! P.S. WHY repeat the same outfits in Black, White and Caramel Leather that he did in two passages...??? Nothing could have saved this collection from Tragedy. The Biggest Tragedy, Anderson has Talent. Just this collection was no showcase for that talent. 

That's All,

Bye4Now!

David Koma.

Sat. 09/14/2013.

David Koma.

If a collection could ever feel sharp enough to Literally CUT some one, I think David Koma Accomplished that this season with a brief Treatise on Striking Colour, Asymmetry and Strict Futuristic Modernism! Starting firmly entrenched in the Colours of the season... Black And White. The Icy Starkness of these opening looks exemplified the Futuristic aspect of the clothes to a Tee! 

The Fit and Flare Stiff skirted opening looks from Leather and Tech Silk worked with a Judy Jetson Panache And the Tiny Bi-Colour leather Bolero with the Panther Sleek Zip-front Dress in Black at Exit No. 6 was Space Age Stellar! The Graphic Nature of these opening Spectator looks made the caprices of the collection, Seem less like Extravagant Flights of Fancy and more like Architectural exercises, Exercises that worked. 

After the Positive/Negative Play of Black and White, Blush Nude insinuated itself into the equation BEAUTIFULLY and funnily enough added an air of... Austerity that was welcome in the Brazen Hardness of the opening Section! Then, The most lovely relief... Icy Glacier Blue and White pieces in that incorporated solid blocks of the blue accented with wide bands of White and then juxtaposed that against a stripe pattern in the same two colours that suggested that ancient Japanese art... Shibori. It was Purest Joy and a Lovely Combination! The best the seemingly simple dress at Exit 16 with the Ultramarine Blue/White Bands.Then more Ultramarine and White looks... Still in Spectator mode. 

As the show progressed on... the looks became increasingly complex and difficult, yet they retained all the effortlessness that hallmarked this collection. After Ultramarine and White the Change over to Ultramarine and BLACK changed the whole vibrancy of the colour and muted it in the most subtle and Charming way! If Charming could be taken from the Space Amazon Clothes that ended the collection! 

It ended with a Strong, Powerful punch and nothing Delivers a Punch quite like Black Leather, but paired with the blue, it was A Vibrating Power, Not a Klaxon! And isn't that the way the Modern Space Age Warrior Woman wants to dress?  

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Julien MacDonald.

Sat. 09/14/2013.

Julien MacDonald.

Julien MacDonald Is a wizard. This collection proves that MacDonald is not only A Master of Sexy, Slinky, Seductive and sometimes downright SALACIOUS Couture... and make no mistake, THIS IS COUTURE Level! One may forget that MacDonald was catapulted into the limelight and given the Keys to the Kingdom by none other than Uncle Karl himself oh so many years ago in 1996 when he was charged with creating super delicate cobwebby knits for Karl Lagerfeld and MOST Importantly Chanel! 

After Chanel, MacDonald showed his true Couture Chops when he was given the Mantle of Couturier at Givenchy. He got into a groove late in his tenure there and was hitting his stride in his own way. But that was then, this is now... and since, he has truly carved a niche at his own label. This season the patchworking trend that has been showing up across the pond has found it's way here as well, however here it was a decidedly more Decadent, less Sportif affair in MacDonald's Glitz-Coated Hands. The Air of Atelier Versace Circa Fall 2013 felt keenly present here but was transmuted to look Completely Versace, Yet equally, totally Unlike Versace. There was something Brilliantly Baroque about MacDonald's Application of his crafts, and was well exhibited in his Daring opening Exit of Beaded Net and Lavish Scrollwork embroidery that showed how the Haute Couture left it's indelible Tattoo on Julien's Work! 

Exit No. 2 was also a Vision in Pale Moonlight Grey cobweb knit, crochet, net, Sheer Illusion and Beading, It breathed with the essential Vie of Couture! In fact, other than Black, MacDonald kept his Palette Moonglow pale! Exhibited beautifully in Exit No. 3 in a Starlight Blue Patchworking again of net, knit, crochet and Tulle was Mind Boggling in it's technical Difficulty and and was a feat of Couture Craftsmanship. 

There was also a lot of Sliver-y, Mirror-like metal embroideries and and one gown looked like a Mirror ball come to life in the Sexiest way possible while also keeping itself quite discreet at Exit No. 22! An EXQUISITE beaded sheer Caftan next at Exit No. 23 had an Elie Saab Frisson running through it but was more daring than anything Saab would ever create!

With a Smashing Finale Pair of gowns, MacDonald produced a collection as Powerful and Resonant as any he has ever done! It was A Stellar Showing, Which it should have been since the Collection derived all it's colours and Twinkle from the heavens! Starlight, Starbright, What A Shining Star We Saw this night!

That's All!

Bye4Now!

First Day of London Shows Spring 2014.

Fri. 09/13/2013.








Nothing to report so far... Todd Lynn and Christopher Raeburn offered interesting propositions but not enough to garner words... But Saturday holds promise.






That's All.






Bye4Now!

Done In New York. Off To London!

Dear Readers,





Those of you whom have stuck with me and realize that I have only scant days until Fall/Winter 2014 starts, thank you for your reading and bearing with me and my slowness... I am getting the groove here and realize I MUST BE DILLIGENT! No slacking off during the season as it's happening!

IF, I can, I am going to try and write a few reviews for Haute Couture Spring 2014 if i can get all these RTW collections done before the NYFW Shows start next month. I am gonna work like mad and if I am a trifle bit behind, I ask for you to Hang In There With Me...

I appreciate all who have read and hope in coming posts that some will comment and offer feedback. I love what I am doing and hope that others like it as well!


Thank You One And All!








That's All.






Bye4Now.

Marc Jacobs.

Thurs. 09/12/2013.

Marc Jacobs.

Let's put the baby to bed first. OK? I didn't like this collection. I APPRECIATED It. But as for liking it... No! Marc Jacobs is One Capricious Son of a Bitch, It's the element that keeps him in league with the Great showmen of fashion like Lagerfeld and Galliano who in their Furtive and Creative minds can produce show spectacles of amazement and awe while still delivering on the goods in the clothing department. Jacobs is one of those Rare Creatures. But he is also an Arch Absurdist and Prankster and this time I not only think, I am 100% Sure that streak got him in trouble and carried him away this time. 

Those opening Jackets that everyone has been calling Sailors Jackets looked more, TO ME, Like renditions of the Toreador Jackets so famous in the late 80's Via Christian Lacroix. All that Passementerie Silk Embroidery and Tassels and Extended Shoulders... Looks Bullfighter to me! And if that had just been a riff, An... Arabesque nee... a flight of fancy that wasn't so firmly committed to, it would have been nice, but they weighed the collection down in such a garish way that it felt almost as if Jacobs was daring his status in the fashion community and saying to the system at large... "I Dare Ya! I Double Dare Ya to say this is Overworked and Costumey!!" And no one did. He Dared. And Caught the fashion world Blinking! As Perhaps he was well aware... they fawned over it like it was Mother's Milk and The Emperor this time was not only clothed... she was Magnificently Over Dressed! 

I can see where Jacobs was going.  But there was this Fragrance of Galliano Perfuming the air (John Galliano seems to be another Season Touchstone as is Richard Tyler) and as it did In the house that Oscar Built in the fall, it showed that leave Galliano TO Galliano! Here the tragic mix of Victoriana (he and Anna Sui must have vacationed together again!) and Sporty was not fluid or had the effortless hand to make it seem Spontaneous... it ached with Overthinking and Impart. The Couch Cushion (Or Wallpaper) Floral prints Smothered in Silk Tassels and ropes had a Campy Luxe to them that taken out of context and lightened by say a pair of White Pants or some jeans will be Retail Gold. But shown as they were, there would be too much dissecting of it all to get something that didn't weigh the women wearing it down like an Anchor!

The Ornate Nature of the collection was Admirable, sometimes he caught the wave and it was Downright Marvellous, Take Exit No. 12 in Black on Black with a soft jacket and shorts with jet beading and floral vinework embroidery. An Out and Out Winner! However that ornate nature also marred the collection. Leaving things that should have been left alone, Over Embellished and Gaudy... Exits No. 33-35 were prime examples of this posit. 

Evening was where Jacobs Magpie sensibilities shone the best and some of his evening concoctions were Darkly glamourous, In a Tim Burton sort of way! There was an almost Coven like feeling inserting itself in the final pages of this collection as if the Witches were getting ready to brew up a Dark Storm and it left the Palate with a Treacly, Biting Tingle that was Delicious and Sublimely Perverse!

In The End, It wasn't as if the collection wasn't one of the most original ideas we have ever seen in fashion, For it was actually just that. It just was laboriously weighed down by it's own Hauteur! Of course, Jacobs is not a designer to play it at all safe, and taking chances like this is a good thing and some of his offerings from this endeavour are Truly Masterful and Intoxicating, But like all Intoxications... Too Much of it, Can be Deadly! The End result here... Overdose! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Calvin Klein Collection.

Thurs. 09/12/2013.

Calvin Klein Collection.

For a Celebratory Collection Marking Francisco Costa's 10 years at the house Calvin built, It was an incredibly unfortunate collection and one that didn't show off Costa's considerable talents in any way! In fact, it was a Terribly disappointing and more blatantly, Horrible showing. It was, if one wants to paint the honest picture of truth, Disgracefully Ugly.

I am all for experimentation and pushing boundaries, and sometimes in being that Provocateur one can create things that disturb and confound but they push the envelope and move forward... understandable they may not be, but influential they certainly are. This was experimenting but had no potential to influence! It was just downright Awkward. 

The opening exit was Drop Dead Awkward. It gave not a whiff of enhancement to the Pin thin model and in the real world would just do things that were unspeakable to a regular body! Those Strange Flaps off to the side that looked like the most overzealous seam allotment failed to flatter by a country mile. Costa's Obsession with this Design trick was overworked and ghastly in the first exit, why he continued to torture the clothes with this caprice was dumbfounding! Equally Bemusing was that he left many outfits raw-edged and ragged looking. To What end was this element exalting the clothes...???

Exit No. 2 was so stiff and boxy that it forced the models arms out to the sides, Akimbo in the most forced and unnatural way! The fabrics also looked like Cheap Upholstery fabrics and Pedestrian looking. Synthetic and not in any kind of good way! There were SO MANY Missteps in this showing that one's mind Boggled at the Deluded Nature of it all. It was just one misguided mistake after another and it all added up to one Tragic Catastrophe! To go into any detail would be simply reiterating the multitude of errors in this collection to no further effect other than to sound Vituperous. The collection Woefully does that enough all on it's own! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Ralph Lauren.

Thurs. 09/12/2013.













Ralph Lauren.

Thank Mod for Ralph Lauren! Lauren produced one of the best collections of his career with this Ode to Mod and Equally to MODERN! It was Classy, Sporty, And More importantly, FUN! There was a healthy Dose of Wit and Mischievousness that gave a Buoyancy and Lilt to the clothes. The Pure Freshness of all that spectator Black and White punctuated by Huge doses of Eye-Whomping Colour was just the right way to Start 2014 for the House of Lauren.

Honestly... the past few years have seen essential regurgitations of old Lauren tropes in his collections and while being updated, yes... they felt inherently recycled... variations on a theme... and at their worst they were just Boring. Lauren has a tendency to fall back on Familiar ideas and Tried-And-True Winning Formulas, that while they will keep his billions secure and his shareholders happy, they don't do much to change the veneer of Uptown and communicates really to a very specific woman.

Starting with his Effortlessly Beautiful Resort 2014 collection inspired by Ballet, Lauren has seemed to finally retrace the course he was following in the late 90's and early 2000's where he was injecting Speed, Vitality, Youthfulness and Modernity into his collections and were making them Sportif and Chic! This collection plays on that idea and perhaps is the finest apotheosis in the lexicon of Lauren.

Injecting a bit of Carnaby Street circa 1964 and a little bit of Courreges and Gernreich into the collection did wonders when those motifs were viewed through the Ralph Lauren Prism. The opening was a Simple as simple could want to be but in it's simplicity spoke VOLUMES! This being Chez Lauren, there couldn't NOT be a nod to Preppy and what better place than England to poach some Prep attitude from! It MUST be said that all that Spectator colour did not come off One WHIT Boring or Dull in Laurens' Learned and Trained hands... in fact it was cleaner, fresher and more hip than anything most of the Critical Darlings of 7th Ave. have produced in their Entire careers.

A Op-Print Trench over a Gleaming Black patent mini, White Shirt and Tie at Exit No. 8 was Sweet but also Hard and Perfect. A Windowpane check Shift at Exit No. 16 had It ALL! It was Effortlessly Wearable and Teetered that line of 60's Mod and the contemporary feeling of Now in one Sleek Motion! Exit No. 22 was simply the Iciest, Sharpest, Coolest Invocation of the White magic that has been going nonstop this season in a cropped brief Space Age Flawless suit!

And then it was A Trippy Colour Explosion! Apple Green, Lemon Yellow, Fire-Engine Red, Carrot Orange! The most delightful exposition being the Gazar evening gowns that floated down the Glossy White runway and were decorated with Flamenco ruffles at Exits No. 38-40! There was a Snowy Flurry of White evening pieces and then a Final Salute in a Red Crepe Cape Back Opera gown that was The Epitome of Minimalist Opulent Extravagance! It evoked comparison to the White Tom Ford last season but was actually more Dramatic and Pure!

I have rarely been more moved by a Ralph Lauren collection in the over 20 years of following fashion that I have racked up. It was Sterling! It was Utter Perfection with a Capital P! It couldn't have done anything one iota better to make the collection more Desirable and Awe-Inspiring! It was the best move in the right direction for the house that has been taken in YEARS and one can only hope that this style is pursued Chez Lauren in future collections, because it is The Right path for the future of Ralph Lauren!

















Bye4Now.




















That's All!

Nanette Lepore.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

Nanette Lepore.

It was a Cute, Sporty, Girly outing for Nanette Lepore for Spring 2014. The Colours announced loud and clear that Lepore was in a Playful mood... Poppy Red, Turquoise Blue, A Peppy Multicolour Floral, all tempered with the relief of Pinky Neutrals and SCADS Of White. 

After a Bright opening, we were given solid blocks of Monotone Colour, All Red, All White (Fancy That!) and the aforementioned Floral Print. One of the best Exits... No. 9 A White-on-White Sporty/Utilitarian Outfit of a drawstring waist Leather Utility Jacket with a flippy Tennis Skirt and the now Ubiquitous Mesh showing up as a Tee underneath! Also Noteworthy Exit No. 20, A Lavishly embroidered jacket over Bermudas was a Winner and the trio of Embroidered dresses that ended the show had a Easy Effortless Luxury to them and were Playfully Romantic. 

The collection wasn't breaking any boundaries of Innovation but was Savvy enough and Pretty enough to keep Lepore's Clients happy and touched on enough of the outlying trends of the season to bring newcomers into the fold. All in All one would say it was a Success on many fronts.
















That's All.

















Bye4Now!

Marchesa and Anna Sui.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

Marchesa.

There was really nothing new Chez Marchesa. The same Stale show format, the same increasingly elaborate reiteration of the same gowns we have seen dozens of times and this time with no Major Model faces (Save Lindsay Wixon) to spark the fires of desire... it just felt as flat as Day-Old Soda Pop! 

A women who goes to Marchesa wants the wares that Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are hawking... they know what they are in for... but from fashion standpoint, the message has become rote and frankly... been done better by them in the past. 

The collection suffered from a reliance on a Certain Galliano Feel that it didn't seem to fully escape by the shows end...  there was a lack of vision in the Styling and the clothes just felt like over elaborate Preteen clothes! It simply lacked the spirit that a Modern woman would want to carry her through an evening. Some of these pieces on the right woman will make Red-Carpet Magic, But life is not a series of Red Carpets, is it not? I will not go into as I have already in previous Posts the irrelevance of a fashion house that only produces evening garb. My feelings on it are known by now and you can revisit those opinions in past posts. But, Marchesa is suffering the same lack of diversity and if at ANY house where some diversity would be welcome it would be here... for each increasingly Overdone Frock begins to strain the eye and credulity ever more! 

Were there some Winners, of course, Chapman and Craig are too Adept at this milleu to produce a complete collection of Treacly Nothings... Exit No. 5 was a Gorgeously Floral embroidered Knockout with a Hi-Lo Fishtail hem... SUBLIME! Exit No. 12 was also a Masterpiece... Tiers of Cloud Grey Silk and Silver Lace and White Plumettes.... DAZZLING!

Yet after that... things begin to transmorgrify into something, less than Gainly! Exit No. 16 was a Traipse through a Galliano nightmare and was to be quite bald about it... Ugly! Exit No. 17 had it's charms but the Black Outfits that proceeded from Exits No. 18-24 should have been pitched into the Dumpster... Again A Aping of Galliano codes that just looked Downright Awkward and Graceless! Lindsay Wixon's look in Exit No. 23 almost made it past muster... But still didn't quite make the Grade. And that Heavy, Leaden Pearl Number At Exit No. 26.... The Less Said, The Better!

It ended in Quite a Lovely way with a Couture Worthy Empire Bodiced Gown that was screaming for a Young Starlet to give it Wings... But as a whole... it was an unsatisfactory Mess! Not the best showing from the Marchesa Duo, and sadly it hasn't been a bumper crop of shows the last couple seasons... I think Chapman and Craig need to push the refresh button and look at the stuff that made them the superstars they had become. Should they continue with Uneven Showings like this, They are not going to keep the fires of that memory burning for much longer!













Anna Sui.

Pre-Raphaelites, Edward Burne-Jones, The Masai, Victoriana, Balinese Dancers, The 60's Design Collective "The Fool" All reference points for Anna Sui this Spring 2014 season. And as Eclectic and Daring as that Mash-Up may sound, it really didn't translate into anything more than Par For The Course, Chez Sui. This Hippy, Trippy grunge girl through the ages has been a Motif that Sui has revisited multiple times with pretty much the same result. If it wasn't included in her notes... there was also an allusion to Alphonse Mucha and his Art Nouveau looks of the early 20th century and hints of Erte of the Art Deco Period.

As much as there was the inevitable Haight-Ashbury Hippy Vibe there was an equal nod to '90's Grunge of which with her friend Marc Jacobs, Sui was one of the Progenitors of that style back in the day. Yet again though, this isn't new territory being tread by Sui and by that token... it felt all too familiar!

It started with a Baby Doll in 2014 guise and not so much the 1993 version as this one had the New Luxe Patina that the 1993 version would have Avoided like the plague... in 21 years, fashion has morphed greatly. The Dress had an Arty-Earthy bent to it and was predictably pretty. However, Still... Predictable.

Everything seemed to stay on this course from beginning to end and it is to be commended that Sui can still produce such a pretty and safely wearable collection as this when we have the Miasma of "Been There, Done That" Perfuming the air. That Sui has failed it seems to work beyond her own Codes and Safe Zone is less commendable and left a somewhat Stale aftertaste. We all know Sui has the Flower Power... One would just wish she was growing something a bit different in her Garden!














That's All.
















Bye4Now!

Reed Krakoff.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

Reed Krakoff.

In the scant 3 years that Reed Krakoff decided to throw his hat into the ring of Fashion Design and not just be the Handbag Kingpin at Coach, he has firmly enmeshed himself into the fabric of New York Fashion Week as one of the shows that pretty much is a Can't Miss. Why? Well even if Anna herself isn't there, some emissary doing her bidding is reporting every little detail back to her and usually those details are that the man has serious fashion skills. He already has a Signature Niche he has ensconced himself within and he designs some of the most exciting and forward thinking Modern (With a Capital MODERN) Sportswear this side of Helmut Lang whom one would concede is his Touchstone. 

This Season was perhaps the Best so far, and augers well for things to come. Now that he has the Fresh Air of Freedom from Coach blowing in his face he translated that freedom into some of the most stunningly Complex and Elaborate Luxe Sportswear This side of Couture! There was a Light-Handedness that was hard to miss and a Liquidity in everything that only made the Sharply Tailored pieces Snap and Crackle with Severe Excitement even more! There was a Glorious Resign of anything overtly fussy and extraneous. Including the mainly Neutral Palette. There was a Hint of Absinthe here, A Touch of Lemon there, but colours were relegated to either hazy Flesh tones or watery Mineral colours. Plus the Requisite White and Black.

Krakoff didn't fail to touch on any of the Hot Button trends Emerging this season, from The Mesh story making Seriously Big waves or the predominant White-On-White Trend and even giving the Sportif/Luxe Juxtaposition it's due! There was a Grunge thing Happening that has been happening elsewhere and emerging as a Mini-Trend. The Grunge idea was executed with some Elaborate detailing as in the first Exit. A Slip Dress for the 21st Century. In a hazy fleshy Peach tone with ruched tucking at the sides and a Asymmetric Hi-Lo Hem it was Modern and Romantic, A word not usually associated with Krakoff's Oeuvre!!

The Next Standout was Exit No. 5. A Sleeveless Papyrus Belted Trench Dress that was Living in the realm of PERFECTION All Day And All Night Marianne! The new Skirt suit appeared At Exit No. 11 with a Strict and Structured blazer with a fluid side-dipping Asymmetric Skirt all in tones of Creme Anglaise! Next a Electric bright Lemon Yellow Dress at Exit No. 15 Was just Divine! It's Angled front seam giving way to the peekaboo insets and a nonchalant flip back Collar! 

Exit No. 22 was a Beautifully Ephemeral Evocation of both the Slip Dress/Grunge Idea and the All White Idea morphed into one Skillful Application! It's Wafting Hi-Lo hem gave it the Gravitas to move seamlessly from Day to Evening! The Evening version, one could call it, of Exit No. 5 showed up at Exit No. 25 in a Shiny Satin version! It was cut a bit more relaxed but was nonetheless Powerful! 

In the end. Krakoff produced a Hit of Titanic Scale. The collection was Brief, Fleet and left you wanting more lasting all of a bare 7 minutes... it was truly 7 Minutes In Heaven! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Milly.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

Milly.

Talk about taking an Idea and running with it! Milly's Michelle Smith went Mesh Mad for Spring 2014 and it shouldn't surprise anyone that at the very least ONE Designer this season wouldn't take that Athletic Mesh that has shown up in nearly every collection so far of the NY season and build a collection around it!

In Smith's hands though the Athleticism of the Mesh was clearly erased in favor of a Ripe, Sensual Femininity made askew by the fact that it was still.... MESH! The Opening Salvo had all the hallmarks of Dolce and Gabbana Gone Sporty, with it's Corsetry and Electric Yellow briefs showing through the White Mesh. Smith said she was inspired by traditional notions of Femininity... well if that was the case, she hit the mark Smack Dab on the Head! Brassieres, Briefs, Shimmy Skirts, Granny Panties... it was all there! And executed in such a Delightfully Charming manner that one could not help but smirk a little like a naughty schoolboy who was getting flashes of more Woman Flesh than he ever imagined he would!

The Play of Longer lengths and body-encasing silhouettes turned the notions on their ear and made them Modern by a country mile in comparison to if Smith had reigned it in and not went so ballsy with the looks. In doing so she also proposed a very Empowering view that gave the acceptance of near nakedness sheathed in the barest mesh validity!

After the opening daring ideas, Smith gently U-Turned to beautiful florals with a Hothouse Tropical feel to them... not Hawaiian Tropics... More Amazonian Tropics. Paired as they were, At first, on a Celadon Green back mixed with bright Orange (A Season Staple it seems) they came off as innately playful but not cheeky. A brief respite in Exit No. 12 had a Moschino sensibility to it with it's Zig-Zag Pastry cutter edge Jacket in Cadet Blue paired with a more aquatic green/blue top and a Plum coloured shimmy skirt!

Along the way there was more (MUCH More) Mesh and more Alluding to the Feminine Craft of D&G but it in no way felt as it was aping that much recognized Sicilian Signature nor did it feel like it was mocking it. It was a Fresh and Witty interpolation of familiar codes and done with as much seriousness and devotion to the idea as it was Tongue-In-Cheek! The Combination was Irresistible and Ultimately, Wholly Satisfying.














That's All.















Bye4Now!

J. Mendel.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

J. Mendel.

Gilles Mendel has been at the helm of the Family Business since 1981 and in the last decade or so has moved from the house specialty of Luxury Top-Tier furs, to primarily known as a Maker of Stunning Red Carpet Evening Gowns and as of Late, Deluxe Sportswear. That Deluxe sportswear angle has Slingshot him up the Ladder of Fashion Power Players. He has in the last couple seasons as well, Brought a Couture Quality to his Expensive, Luxe Sportswear, which has produced some Stunning creations and this collection was Chock full to the Brim with That Exacting attention to Couture Level Execution. 

For Spring 2014 that Level of Craftsmanship was on Ample display, Mendel concerned himself with Intricate Patchworking and and Insetting of Lace, Brocade, Fur and Laser-Cut Diamond Mesh in Multiple colours and patterns. Starting off with a long sleeve patchwork Tee Dress that segued into more elaborate evocations of the theme. The Technique was Giddily Punishing and not the least bit overwrought or Tortured. There was an Ephemeral ease that has been imbuing most of the collections of the season and was Transfigured here into something more Regal and less Waifish. 

Exit No. 5 was a complex Amalgam of Sheared Mink, Lace, and Mesh in a Sleek Zip-Front jacket paired with lace short shorts. A Simply Marvellous Geometric Affair of Bubble Gum Pink Lace, Mesh and Brocade at Exit No.8 was Buoyant and Refreshing and without a Sequin, Bead or Crystal, equally Drop Dead Glam! Also Utterly DEVASTATING was Exit No. 13 in a Simple appearing but in no Matter simply Constructed evening gown in White mesh and Crepe. 

A Brilliant Caban in White was Optically constructed in Parallel Angles of Sheer and Solid stripes At Exit No. 17 Was Gasp-Worthy and Icily Sharp! Exit No. 31 Had that same Icy Sharpness In a Simple White Crepe Dress with a Tiered Hem that was Cut with Scalpel Like Precision! 

Along the way Mendel Traversed a lot of territory in telling his story this season. from Sugary Pastels and Rich Rugged Earthen tones, to Cool Metal Colours and Metallics, like the section Super Shiny silver pieces DENSELY Embroidered with leaves in a Matte Silver thread or later in DEEP Emerald. At the finish Line we were given Retina Burning BRIGHTS in Hot Pink and Coral Juxtaposed against Puce Red. 

With Relief... the Finale was Black... ALL BLACK and seemed in a strange way to cleanse and refresh the eye. It was just that Palate Cleanser that was needed to bring the message home in the most effective way and anchor all that had come before to the Terra Firma of Modern Reality! When all was Said And Done, Mendel had stretched his arms out wide and culled a Bounty of Riches from his inspiration and in the process surely made his name one to be reckoned with in the Halls of New York Fashion. With a most Distinctive Voice and Eye and Hand Mendel has shown that He has arrived and this collection made sure that everyone knew... He's here to Stay! 

That's All. 

Bye4Now!

Philosophy By Natalie Ratabesi.

Weds. 09/11/2013.











Philosophy By Natalie Ratabesi.

What a Breath of Fresh Air this collection was! Sublimely Relaxed and Calm, Languid, Liquid and Unfettered! There was just something so Transportive about this Philosophy Collection, Natalie Ratabesi who has taken the reigns of the house from Alberta Ferretti at Ms. Ferretti's Behest (so she could put her total focus on her Eponymous Collection) shows that she is entirely capable of projecting this label into the future and on a path of success!

The collection truly floated and wafted at times down the runway and seemed to blow like a breeze through the Showroom. The Colours were Sorbet Fresh but mainly focused on White and MORE White. There was Generous Slouch to much of the collection but that didn't lend any bulkiness or lumpen qualities to the collection. In fact it was as Lean as it was Spare. Mainly because of the Reliance on Bias cutting and Asymmetric hems that gave everything Lift and Airiness.

A White Stretchy Alaia-Esque Tank dress at Exit No. 12 was one of the Standout Pieces with it's Tiered Ruffled skirt that was as easy as a Tank top! Exit No.19 Captured Cote D'Azur Chic with a Sherbet Pink pair of pants that were wide enough to look like a Split Skirt worn with a creamy Tee. Exit No. 28 also captured the romantic mood of Strolling along a beach in the Mediterranean in a Luscious Lime Green Ensemble.

In the end the collection was a Strong Statement about Relaxed Lightness and Romantic Easiness. Nothing was Rough Hewn or Harsh, it was all Gentle and Feather Light, As a Whisper from a lover... and how that could ever be anything but Utterly Desirable, One cannot fathom!















That's All.
















Bye4Now!

Rachel Zoe.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

Rachel Zoe.

Ms. Rachel Zoe! A woman with whom I share a Unquenchable Passion for all things Chanel and Equally Karl Lagerfeld. Ms. Zoe is something of an Idol to me. But in saying that, I also would be the first to say if she produced a Massive Suckbomb of a collection. Splendidly, That was not the case!

In Fact, This was perhaps her most Accomplished and Focused Collection to date. It was hitting all the right notes of the season and keyed into all the major trends seen on multiple runways this season. But there was something also Effortlessly "Zoe" About the Collection., That Los Angeles Rich Hippy Bohemian Flavour that Is Essential Rachel Zoe. Touching on All-White, Sport Chic, Safari Saharienne And Denim were all shown in Clever ways and keeping the palette mostly White, Black, and Denim with touches of Pastels and A few Neutrals to ground things.

Starting Out, A rumpled, shiny pantsuit in a near Metallic dusty Sage that had a Breeziness and Louche energy to it that was typical Zoe. Exit No. 3 was one of those "Why Didn't Someone Think of This Before!" Moments that was truly one of the best evening looks I've seen in a while in Pewter Sequins in a crop top and Drawstring waist column skirt. PITCH PERFECT! Exit No. 5 had Instant Want written all over it as well, Aping a Vintage YSL Vibe in a Luggage leather Saharienne Jacket made Modern and Sportif with a zipper and snap front.

Exit No. 10 gave us that Athletic Notion that has been running rampant and also on the All-White Carousel that has been spinning out of control in a tie-neck Blouse and Perfed Mesh Swingy circle skirt that was equally Crisp and Fresh as it was Easy! Look No. 17 expounded on the already prevalent T-Shirt dress trend and cut it out of Aqua Perf Mesh and looked incredibly Young, Hip and Chic!

A Swirling Dervish of Black Sequins at Exit No. 28 was an Opulent Showstopper and a Red Carpet Winner of an option for whatever Starlet it might sheath in the upcoming Awards season! The Zebra on Zebra Safari top and Pants at Exit No. 30 was pretty Kooky and Delightfully Fun! And the finale Caftan in a Blurred Zig-Zag Print was SO Zoe that she walked down the catwalk in it herself.

I found myself Blown away and Captivated by this Clearly Defined and Chic Collection. It felt far fresher and On Trend than many major collections this season and that much of the press have snubbed their noses and thrown shade Ms. Zoe's way, calling her a better stylist than designer... well these are the same people whom glorify Nicholas Ghesquiere, Proenza Schouler, Raf Simons and The Rodarte Sisters with Lavish Praise and that reflects that their opinions neither matter or are accurate!

The only thing Zoe needs is more Confidence and more Belief in HER Vision! Define Herself and Screw the rest, Do What She wants and give the Middle finger to those saying she isn't a Designer. Also... Rachel, Hun-TY! Book The Top Girls! Book The Top Makeup and Hair. You wave the Money, (WHICH WE KNOW YOU HAVE) their way and they will come. Nothing, AND I MEAN NOTHING Brings a show down MORE than not having the Top Girls (along with Fresher, Newer Faces) Showcasing your Looks! Get On That! STAT!












That's All.













Bye4Now!

Proenza Schouler.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

.

Proenza Schouler.

Some houses just have that Bulletproof quality because the Powers That Be have deigned them Untouchable and Industry Darlings. And usually the curse of Industry Darling is that most times (Ghesquiere, Raf Simons, The Rodarte Sisters,  Et Al..) They cannot design to save their goddamn lives! Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough prove that beyond a Shadow of a Doubt! The collection for Spring 2014 was just as dreadfully Incoherent as a Madman with Tourettes! INEXPLICABLE! WHO, WHO IN THE DAMN HELL Is dressing like this? Where do these women exist? I wanna know cus I KNOW I am the only one NOT Getting it, But I wanna have proof that the reason I am not is because there are some tragic women out there wearing these mistakes of fashion that should have had the designers exercising their Pro-Choice Options before these Abominations were given life! 

There were Moments of Lucidity that produced some nice options but the overwhelming feeling was that Jack and Lazaro were Dumpster Diving through the Castoff bins of Celine and only giving what they found there a Tweak and a Nudge and calling it Proenza Schouler! It started fairly well with a Black Jacket with Blond Suede Fold back "Lapels" held in place by Shiny metal Turnlock Closures paired with Alabaster Pants that were cropped and looked more like a skirt than pants, but it was OK. The Look Worked. Exit No. 2 was also treading down the acceptable road with that same Blonde Coloured Suede cut into a tight waisted tunic top with Shiny Barbell closures and another pair of Cropped pants... these Bell Bottom instead of Split Skirt style.

Things stayed a nice course in the beginning, but when they DID begin to devolve, the train wreck happened fast and without much lead up! By Exit No. 11 the wheels had come off the bus! Where it Careened then was anyone's Guess! Painting Stripes on some of the most Ungainly Black pieces as well on other colours... and all those Black and White or Ecru branch pattern like pieces just strained one's eye as well as credulity! And Then, Pleat-O-Rama! At their length... around mid calf, the skirts and dresses that the models wore, well frankly, they aged the models and look dated all the way back to 1982 when Secretaries wore them! Horrendous! 

It was a Confused Mess as per usual Chez Proenza Schouler. Industry DAHLINKS they may well be, but that has no bearing on the fact that they have some of the most distractingly BAD taste in all of fashion. This collection did nothing to Challenge that assertion! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Michael Kors.

Weds. 09/11/2013









Michael Kors.

Michael Kors, Can Do NO Wrong. Simple. He is without doubt, The Undisputed KING of New York Fashion. He is the current Elder Statesman that all the other Young Bucks must have in their scope as the kind of designer they want to become and the business they want to have. Many FASHION folk will say Marc is the King because he creates FASHION and Generates Excitement because he is a Showman and a Fashion Visionary, True that may be, But Michael Kors is The MAN! No one in The New York Fashion Firmament is a Bigger Success and Business Star than Michael Kors other than The Highest of the High, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. But just give him time...  At this point, Kors may be be In higher ascension in the Star System Than Hilfiger... but that's information that is completely irrelevant in Fashion Terms. In The Language of FASHION... Kors is Unmatched by Lauren and Hilfiger!

In terms of Fashion... Kors has hit a stride in the last... 15 years that has unstoppable momentum and continues to increase with each passing season and year! He continues to Expand his fashion vocabulary whilst still retaining the Principal ESSENCE of the Michael Kors DNA. And that is some POWERFUL DNA!!!! The Michael Kors Brand has become one of those Ubiquitous Know-From-Across-A-Crowded-Room Kinda Signature Brands that only the likes of Chanel, Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and Louboutin Command! It has been a Blessing owing that Kors is no Amateur in Business or Fashion and usually during any year can be seen, Clothing alone, Draping the bodies of the MOST Accomplished and Glamourous Dazzling women around the world in High Double Digit Amounts!

So, where, exactly, does that position the Spring 2014 Collection? In My opinion, BEST OF THE NY SEASON! Hands DOWN! Perhaps, Maybe, Best of the Season, PERIOD! He hit a Home Run of Epic Caliber and created a collection as Desirable, Covetous, Impactive and Appealing that his customers will be buying in Droves!

It started as usual... with Karmen Pedaru and Simon Nessman. Simon in a look from Kors' Spring 2014 Men's collection and Karmen in the opening Women's Look, one of the absolute BEST Evocations of the White-On-White trend prevailing this season. A Structured Cutaway belted Blazer with a Fluid Knee-length Circle skirt! Evoking Kors' Mood of 40's Boardwalk Glamour... it was a Stunning and Provocative opener even in it's subtlety!

Let me get this out of the way now in the hopes that I don't scale the heights of Prolixity, I could, LITERALLY, write a review on EACH Exit here but I will try to keep this mercifully as brief as possible. My tendency to Ramble I will try to corral!

After the opening, Exit No. 6 Showed the Synergy of Luxe And Sport in the most Decadent way... A Fluffy SNOW White Fox Chubby worn with a Sublime Pencil Skirt in Linen embroidered in White flowers and a Easy and Louche Deep, Tie Neck Blouse. Exit No. 7 was the Epitome of Perfection in a Virgin White Double-Breasted Trench that spoke volumes to the Dictum of That Wise Sage, Diana Vreeland, That "Elegance IS Refusal!" This was Equally Restrained and Extrovert!

Then Exit No. 21 Elevated Denim to Olympian Heights with a Bathing suit top and Long circle skirt both in Embroidered Denim colored lace that moved seamlessly along the line of Lavish and Casual as it was paired with a Cardigan in the same shade. Exit No. 26 was one of those winning outfits that comprised the simplest elements of Sportswear but the way they were put together Launched them into the Outer Realms of Chic in just a simple Pencil Striped tie-neck blouse worn with a button-front pencil skirt the colour of a Classic Trench that edged both into the 40's and 70's with fluid ease!

Exit No. 32 was either A Saucy School Marm of the Golden Age of Hollywood or A Young Ali McGraw Era Collegiate girl and either way she was as compelling and mesmerizing as can be with her belted Heather grey Sweater vest, Cuffed gently poufed sleeve blouse in White and flippy skirt at a most modest length in Camel! Exit No. 49 also had that "It" Factor in that hoary old chestnut of a "Shirt" Dress in Cinnamon with a Python Shoulder Yoke and matching wide Body belt. That it was on Joan Smalls was also a Plus!

The final Three Liquid Jersey Gowns with their Micro-Sequin Embroidered flowers were Paeans to the Glamourous-ness of Ease! They positively OOZED Modern Sensuality and still had that chiseled Figure Exalting cut of the Evening gowns of Hollywood past! The Best in Cocoa on That Gliding Antelope of A Goddess/Woman Karlie Kloss at Exit No. 55.

So from the '40's to the '70's from The Boardwalk to The Red Carpet And from Uptown to Downtown to the Hamptons, Kors plotted a Steady Trajectory of Exquisite Sportif Luxury that reeked of the most Rarefied Richesse and was also Accessible to all the Strata of Society. It was undoubtedly A Masterful showing of Kors' innumerable abilities to Transcend the Mundane and Everyday and Make Casual insanely Luxurious and make the Exquisite adaptable to the masses... it's a secret of his success that will keep him on the top of the heap for as long as he wants to be there. And here's to hoping we get another 30 Years of Genius From Mr. Michael Kors. God Willing, more than 30!















That's All.














Bye4Now!

Narciso Rodriguez.

Tues. 09/10/2013.










Narciso Rodriguez.

It was Short, Angular and Architectural and pretty much Perfect. Narciso Rodriguez gave a Brief, Focused Treatise on Clean, Angular Lines and Dressing the Urban Street Warrior woman! It started out with Tilda Lindstam in a Severe and Sharply Tailored collarless Suit with Clean Lines in White with a thick border of Shiny Black Leather at the hem and a VERY Brief matching leather skirt peeking out from underneath. It was Daring and Sleek and Feminine yet Hard.  This Hard-Edged Femininity was on ample display owing much to the fact that most of the early looks hovered WELL above mid-thigh.

Rodriguez kept the sleek vibe alive with angularity and concentration on limited colour. There was even a pretty floral brocade to keep things lively thrown in to the mix judiciously but also not to inject any sense of Giddy Girlishness... if Brocade can been seen as Tough, this was the collection that achieved that! Things begin to go more ardently towards the 21st century mod style that was the playground of Helmut Lang (another one of those Touchstones for the season) with trailing asymmetric panels that didn't fully wrap around the torso or hip giving a eccentric twist to the looks but didn't look in the least like Trickery or Tactics to inject something Overtly Arty into the collection.

A Color Blocked Dress with one of those Asymmetric panels on the Leggy Goddess Maria Borges At Exit No. 17 was Effectively Dramatic and Airy. And then thrown in for a bit of relief from all the High Hem Hijinx were a couple of Equally Effective Long skirts that did not feel one iota out of place in the Gam Fest as they also showed off plenty of lean leg!

It was the Best collection Rodriguez has done in almost a decade... His collections have in recent past bordered on the Silly and the Hopelessly Tricky or were just plain Unattractive and yet garnered him reviews that were in the stratosphere and were not in my opinion at all deserved. This is a Return to the Narciso of Old and is welcome in the utmost. Let's Hope he is set back on the Right Track from here on out!












That's All.












Bye4Now!

For All Of My Readers....

Sun. 01/12/2014.








Thank You All so much for reading and for those whom have been retweeting my posts online and such and all the compliments I have received thus far, THANK YOU! I know Fall 2014 is rapidly approaching and I am going to try my DAMNEDEST to be posting LIVE come this February, just finding the time to blog with consistency is more difficult than I envisioned. I Love It, but i have been woefully lacking sometimes in being current. This is my True FIRST Season of Blogging and I PROMISE as the Feb. shows start I will be Blogging Everday, Making sure I keep abreast of all that is happening. I am going to finish Spring 2014 as quickly as possible... I MUST! I take this very seriously and hope that you all understand that I do.


Thank You All SO Much!








That's All.








Bye4Now!

Oscar De La Renta.

Tues. 09/10/2013.









Oscar De La Renta.

I mentioned in a previous post that Marc Jacobs is the Crown Prince of New York Fashion... So I am assuming since I bring that up in this post I am saying OdlR Is the King... Well No, Actually Not. THAT Specific Moniker (King) belongs to None other than Michael Kors (More on that in the Post on HIS Show Later) Oscar Occupies the more Exalted Throne of Lord High Emperor Of New York Fashion! One that he comfortably shared with the Late and Awesomely Great Bill Blass (as owing they were best of friends and the eldest of elder statesmen of NY Fashion they both deserved the term equally) but now Emperor Oscar has that seat all to himself and shows why he does when he continues to produce collections like he did for Spring 2014.

After what could only be seen as a Miscalculation in Judgement to let John Galliano's hand Lay so Heavily over his Fall 2013 Collection that is Marred the Essence of what is De La Renta with too much of a Galliano Bent in the Styling and the Clothes, This was a Triumphant Return to all that is Glorious About Oscar De La Renta!

Oscar has so many skills that to even begin to Catalog them would be and Exhausting Effort... Yet pretty much most of them were on display in this show. From beginning to End, De La Renta Traced a Path from Elegant Reserve to Extrovert Luxury! The show opened in A Graphic and Sober key, mixing Navy and White Expertly. The opening on Karlie Kloss Showed Restraint in a Relaxed and Easy way... Doubleface Navy cardigan coat with White Reverse and shown with a supple Cardigan and and Gingham check skirt. It had a total Uptown Socialite feel with a Younger Midtown Energy!

After in Exit No.2 The Galliano impression could be detected again In Joan Smalls' Kimono Bias cut jacket and slim pencil skirt. The details of this outfit screamed Galliano in a De La Renta Mould and here it looked Drop Dead AMAZING unlike Last Fall where it simply felt Awkward. More Navy and White followed in multiple desirable ways and configurations, each one more Drool-Worthy than the last.

One of the best All White Outfits of the season came out on Chanel Iman at Exit No. 12 in a Breeze of a White Sundress with an intricately cutout pattern in the fabric framing the upper torso... Then back to more more Spectator looks, two suits in particular were Gasp-Inducing in their Magnificence... Exit No. 17 on Josephine Skriver in White with Black Embroidered dots and Lace trim and Exit No. 19 on Jac In Black and White Plaid with Black floral over Embroidery imitating the look of Lace Encrustation.

A few other Standouts... A simple Tangerine Shift Dress with a Jeweled Neckline at Exit No. 27 Evoked the classical elegance of Bygone Couture. A Ravishing unadorned Aqua Faille full-skirted evening dress at Exit No. 25 had the kind of Gravitas afforded much more lavish outfits. Also, a Strapless Citron Faille party dress at Exit No. 37  had a lively swing in it's dance skirt and was gently embroidered with White Flowers keeping it Luxe without Excess!

Then it was time for Evening... where De La Renta showed his Absolute Sterling Pedigree in Couture with Masterpiece after Dramatic Masterpiece. The Most Sensational of them were in Aqua... Exit No. 39 In Embroidered Faille in an elaborate Victorian Needlepoint, or the Slim tiered strapless Column with Pearl trim at Exit No. 40 which was Oscar-Worthy in it's Regal Perfection! Exit No. 43 was also a Total Breath Stealer in the Same Aqua Faille as seen before but was gently embroidered in a Silver Ribbon floral pattern in Sequins... STUNNING! The Same Silver Bullion Embroidery was scrolled down the front of the most Glamourous of all the evening pieces, Exit No. 46 on Mirte Maas... a Confection of Strapless Blush Faille that Transported us to the land of The Fairy Tale and The Fantastical! It was a Jaw Dropper of Gargantuan Magnitude! It showed indubitably that De La Renta has the Ability Transform and Transcend all in the same Gesture!

To Conclude... Joan Smalls' closed In a Citron Froth of Tulle and Faille with Black Filigree Embroidery and looking very much like a Spanish Infanta for modern times with her Black Tulle head wrap... It was the way in which a true showman like De La Renta created something more than a fashion show... it was an Unforgettable Experience! That's WHY Oscar De La Renta IS The Emperor of 7th Avenue. Without a Single Trace of Doubt!













That's All.













Bye4Now!

Sophie Theallet And Elie Tahari.

Tues. 09/10/2013.









Sophie Theallet.

So. Let's begin with saying, There wasn't anything Particularly bad with this collection. It's just that it felt Lacking in Excitement and Vision. It played Way too safe and felt Like it belonged in the Contemporary section of the Department store and didn't even raise enough of a pulse to compete with much of the other labels already there. It had some High Points. But in the end it wasn't enough to elevate it beyond the Basic.

Theallet had some exciting colours that played A pretty hand for Spring 2014, Paprika, Tangerine, Sky Blue, Peach, Pistachio, and more... The colours pulled the collection from the Doldrums. However, they couldn't save it from being anything more than... Underwhelming. All very pretty Pieces and Easy to wear, Especially the Baby Blue Floral Evening Gown at Exit No. 33, but nothing really we haven't seen before and seen with more Flair.













Elie Tahari.

Why Elie Tahari has for these last few seasons gone for these Static Presentations beats the hell outta me..?? His last Major Runway outing was Spring 2012... 2012!!!???!?!?? EGADS MAN! Get in the Game. The collection he showed for Spring 2014 was absolutely Runway worthy and had Great Appeal for Le Defile. Tahari's Collection Touched on all the Seasons (So Far) Hallmarks and added a uniquely personal twist to them. From Laser Cut Leathers and Sportif Separates to The All White looks that have predominated. The colour Block First look had Scuba Chic down pat and being cut out of Supple Leather made it Instantly of the minute... It's twin that had a Leonard of Paris Floral Print front panel was equally Tasteful and Fresh!

There in fact, were quite Innovative and Intricate work to be found in many of the garments but done with such a talented and light hand that most, if not all, came off as effortless and not one ounce forced. Take the Clean and Modern shift dress in White that from afar looked like a Textured Fabric or Broderie Anglaise up close turned out to be Appliqued pieces of cut leather that had been lasered with tiny cutouts and overlayed onto a sheer back... It was Technically Brilliant and Sublimely Easy! The next look a Black Laser cut Leather Mesh Jacket-Coat worn with a White Shift also had Great Impact. There was More of that Laser cutout Leather in a Brown Top coat that looked positively Baroque without being in any way excessive or costumey and a White Zip front Biker Jacket that had something of an Armor feel to it but had none of the Labor or Heaviness associated with Armor.

In essence, The collection in it's slight 23 looks was more Focused and Polished than much of what has been seen so far this season. Tahari does himself a HUGE Disservice By shying away from the Runway and showing in this Less than Exciting way. The man has the money and the prestige to be amongst the throng of designers showing at Lincoln Center. And when he is producing Incredible outfits (Women AND Men) like this... It defies imagination why he doesn't Stake his claim Back on the Runway.













That's All.















Bye4Now!

Marc By Marc Jacobs.

Tues. 09/10/2013.








Marc By Marc Jacobs.

Marc Jacobs is without Doubt the Crown Prince of New York Fashion. He is possibly one of the most Creative people in the entire fashion universe and never fails to Illicit anything less than frissons of Adoration and Enthusiasm from the Fashion Throng. His faithful in the business are Legion and he has the Patina of Expertise that much of the time most believe he can do no wrong, and usually he delivers on that belief!

In  his main collection he Vacillates To and Fro, Hither and Yon, finding his inspiration from extremely disparate Points of view from season to season. That's His Magic, His Charm, His... GIFT! But whereas there is always a Radical Shift of Perspective every season Chez Marc Jacobs... At Marc By Marc Jacobs it's more a Gentle Evolution of the guiding principles of that line. The Marc By Marc Jacobs is the Cool Girl that all the other girls wanted to be but she was also that outsider girl that played by her own set of rules and inspired Envy in even the Cool Girls and Uncool Alike.

There is always a Retro Vibe being exemplified at Marc, this season the Specific era was hard to pin down and in itself lent a slightly askew Feeling to the collection. There was something of 70's Ali McGraw here, A Little 80's Fast Times At Ridgemont High There... Plucking from both eras and mixing it with the informed Magpie Eye that is the Hallmark of the Marc Girl.

The collection had facets of Sporty and Glam mixed in for good measure and threw the Ingredients in the Blender, Pushed the Frappe Button and poured this out. How effective the collection was is up for debate... Even I, Still am sorting out how deep my Enthusiasm for this collection runs. The Actual Clothes were quite Easily wearable and had much appeal, how they translated sometimes together and in conjunction with one another was quite something different!

As always, Jacobs showed how flawless his intention is in creating an Evocative mood for the Marc collection, The Intent of this collection was resonant but the execution somehow felt, Half-Hearted, Limp, Wan. It didn't hit on all the usual Cylinders but still was Powerful in it's own Idiosyncratic Way. And That alone is enough to continue to partake of the Communion at The Church of Marc.












That's All.












Bye4Now!

Sachin + Babi And Sass And Bide.

Tues. 09/10/2013.

Sachin + Babi.

Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia put on that Rarest of the rare shows in New York... A show dedicated to True American Sportswear! It was Refreshing to see Crisp, Fresh, Clean, Modern Clothes with the Spirit of The American Heritage of Sportswear firmly infused into it! Sachin and Babi showed Elegant and Forward thinking pieces that would fit into any woman's wardrobe and update the pieces already there or build a new one altogether. The Ease and Deceptive Simplicity of the Clothes only served to make them more desirable and Covetous! 

A Snappy White Tunic dress opened the show with small little lattice Stich flowers it transformed the Chicly utilitarian look of the T-shirt easy dress into something vaguely Artisan. The same could be said for the White pantsuit at Exit No. 3 that took the flower stitching and blew it up to giant size and gave the Pantsuit a decidedly Current Tone. Exit No. 6 Was Quirky and Sharp in the form of a Tweedy looking printed Moto Jacket with a Strict Dress underneath styled like a Men's Button Down but Slimmed down to coat the Curves of a Woman's Body! 

A Fresh as Spring Itself Daydress in Buttercup Yellow at Exit No. 14 had a Blue Denim Hem and was the Epitome of Summer in The City Chic Ease! Exit No. 28 was A clear Winner, A Grey T-Shirt Dress with Layers of Leather Fringe at the hem giving a Mod Nod to the '60's. 

For anyone looking to be Laid Back and Streamlined for Spring/Summer 2014, Sachin + Babi is the place to Go. The collection was free of Effort and Artifice and showed just how compelling some Judgement and Good Taste can take you! It was Free and Easy. Uncomplicated. And sometimes, isn't that all we really need from our clothes? 

Sass And Bide.

To Say it was a Mixed Bag at Sass And Bide for Spring 2014 is an exercise in Understatement. One minute they seemed to be channeling The Modern Amazon, The next A Streetwise City Maharaja. It was A little confusing... A little Muddled and A Lot Unfocused. 

Every outfit felt Overwhelmingly Forced and Overly Tricky. There was no relief from either the Technical Applications of some of the pieces or from the other side of the coin, the layering of just too much stuff at once in an outfit. It was a disaster in a Blender! The show pressed on from one Overwrought Look to the next never settling into a groove of a concise and consistent idea or theme and with all the Over Designing going on, it Sank like a Stone! 

That's All. 

Bye4Now!

Dennis Basso.

Tues. 09/10/2013.








Dennis Basso.

Like The Fendi Family and Giles Mendel, Dennis Basso was once primarily known for Furs and Exotic Skins with emphasis on the Fur. Fur is still a cornerstone for the house and it's designer but as of late he has made a name for himself as a purveyor of Extravagant Evening Attire. And It's been working in his Favour. But Again, One cannot design on Evening alone and Blessedly, Basso has a strong Current of Day pieces Powering his Collection of Mega-Wattage Evening Frocks!

This Spring The fur was flying everywhere... From the Opening Optic Black And White Graphically Pieced Jacket/Coat with Black slim trousers and White tie-neck blouse to the asymmetrically Zipped Broadtail Moto Jacket of Exit No. 4 which was paired with a Saucy Floral embroidered black sheer skirt. Exit No. 13 was a Charmer as well comprising of a Super Short Fox Bolero in a Radiant shade of Aurora Pink paired with a Buoyant and Bouffant short embroidered Blush Pink Dance Dress. Uptown Chic!

The Best thing was the Abundance of Luxe Daywear in the collection from a Simple Lace and Embroidery encrusted sheer Tee with a Fur stole And Black Fluid pants at Exit No. 7 to a Black and White Lizard Jacket with a Art Nouveau Beaded Tee in Black on sheer White paired with tiny little White lace Shorts At Exit No. 12.

The show was Chock full of Sensational and Over The Top Pieces but none quite so much as the Gigantic Powder Pastel Blue and Pink Satin Ballgown with the little cropped Broadtail Pieced Geomtric Print Jacket at Exit No. 17! It was a Jaw Dropper and could have come off matronly but was kept fresh with Minimal Detailing and Accessorizing! It's Spiritual Twin closed the show in Positive/Negative Spectator Fashion.

To be sure... this isn't the cup of tea of everyone... it admittedly skews somewhat... More Mature than many collections but Basso Knows his Woman and Knows her Needs and wardrobe. That he injects some youthful vibrancy into his show to capture some new clients is good business. He isn't chasing the Zeitgeist or trying to be the hot new thing in fashion, he is happy being the supplier of Rich Clothes for Rich Women. If in his push to be more modern some new Young Rich Women hop on board... All The Better!









That's All.










Bye4Now!

Diesel Black Gold And Jenny Packham.

Tues. 09/10/2013.

Diesel Black Gold.

Diesel Has a pretty recognizable Signature, one that doesn't need a lot of tampering with to still be viable and profitable. But Renzo Rosso, Owner of Diesel, as of late has had bigger intentions than being a Cutting edge, Hip Denim label! Cue Diesel Black Gold.  Andreas Melbostad has in his Sophomore Collection for the Denim house didn't reinvent the Wheel or for that matter the Brand DNA of the Label but did give it a Certain Identity for higher end acceptance. That Identity is running in concurrence with the Vibe being apotheosized by Peter Dundas at Pucci and Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. The Rich Bitch Jet Set Rocker Chick!

In that vein... this collection seemed geared to that customers Younger, more freer Little Sister. It didn't have the High Sheen Polish of the aforementioned Labels, and it doesn't necessarily need it to be relevant either. In what it is trying to accomplish it is doing so and not breaking any boundaries doing it but more so gently moving things forward at a steady clip!

The clothes were replete with the requisite accoutrements of the style... Studs on Leather, Check! Grommets, Check! Leather and Denim, Check! Bohemian Flavour, Check! All the elements were there and conspired to give this collection all the right moves and still had it's own Flair!

Starting with a White Leather Shift dress with a Hanky Drop Hem and Replete with Studs and Grommets as well as Mirrored Discs which gave a bit of an Indian Touch to the collection. The show started with All White, (Big Surprise) And progressed through Washed out Desert pastels to finish with a strong Black Section that truly Rocked and Rolled! It was Easy and Luxe and Damn Sexy as well. But the main thing it was Fresh! It felt very NOW, and Very much the kind of stuff all the Hot, Young Things will be clamouring for come Spring '14!










Jenny Packham.

For Spring 2014 it was a mostly Uninspiring affair at Jenny Packham. Another All Evening Collection and one that fizzled in the excitement department. The Collection felt Surprisingly flat and weak. Mostly it felt, Dated. Retro, But with no sense of Modernization or Contemporization. This was one collection that was as easily forgettable as it was dull and boring.

I know Packham as of late has garnered some major press and some celebrity hangers wearing her wares... but I cannot envision anyone wanting to look this Old and Frumpy in modern Hollywood. Or anywhere for that matter!












That's All.












Bye4Now!

Wes Gordon.

Tues. 09/10/2013.







Wes Gordon.

Not every designer in their Third year of presenting during New York Fashion Week could get Monica "Jac" Jagaciak to open their show, But Wunderkind Wes Gordon did and just that simple fact alone lent much impact to an already quite Impactive Collection.

90's Grunge and Minimalism has been rearing their respective heads with increasing frequency this season, Gordon managed to capture both ideas in a totally modern interpretation that Hearkened back to this Heady days when the entire Fashion system was turned on it's ear. It was done here with a Quiet sense of Luxury and Deftness. There were equal influences of Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez of the 90's ilk in the mix as well as some Richard Tyler and Marc Jacobs thrown in for Grungy Measure. (Funnily Enough, Richard Tyler has become something of a undercover touchstone this season as well.)

Funnily... there was also something of an Early 90's Michael Kors vibe Going on as well... the Sporty/Luxe vibe running through this collection smacked of MK's 90's work while not exactly appropriating anything specific from his Oeuvre but definitely settling comfortably in the furrow Kors' so Expertly plowed in those days. If there was any designer to Ape for the Blueprint of Success... Michael IS The One!

The opening Exit was very CK in it's approach with, A 90's Slip Dress given a Luxurious Modern feeling by being inset along it's side seams with lavish Black Lace and pulled back a bit by a Lustrous Knit Sweater over top that gave good Luxe Grunge! Exit No. 7 was one of those Richard Tyler Moments spoken of earlier in a Structured Black Jacket Over an Icy Lavender Tulle layered Slip Dress. The Slip Dress is one of those fashion  Phenomena of the 90's and has hung on ever since for good or bad. This Version was Quietly Quirky and Viable for today all in the same breath! Exit No. 15 Again walked that Klein/Rodriguez Line so closely it almost stumbled into one territory or the other, but it kept itself Salient and Modern and yes... Quite Beautiful too!

Other Beauties... Exit No. 19 showing that the prevailing trend of All White shows no signs of abating was a Clean, Utilitarian and Breezy Shirtdress that should be sashaying itself in every major urban city in the world come Spring. Exit No. 22, A Caramel Version of the opening Slip Dress with Lemon Yellow Lace was particularly Fetching and Daring in it's colour combination. The Rose Pink Cap sleeved Bias Slip Dress of Exit No. 29 was Exquisite and the Finale... well if The Kors' DNA was being sublimated through the rest of the collection it finally Broke to the surface in this Dynamic and Sexy Crystal Studded Number! Glam and Sporty at the same time... Could there be any words that described a Michael Kors Collection more????

For the first firing salvo into the scary realms of the runway, Gordon delivered a Full on Winner with Pieces that will last his customer this season and beyond and have just the right Frisson of Ingenuity and Freshness to make his style Definable and Unique. It all adds up to the launching of a Success in the New York Fashion Firmament and something tells me, Wes has the Talent and Chops to make good on it!












That's All.











Bye4Now!

Naeem Khan.

Tues. 09/10/2013.








Naeem Khan.

It's hard to be mad at such a Luxuriantly Beautiful Collection as this! Even Though it's pretty much a Evening-Centric Collection, it was just so damn Jaw-Dropping! I level the same Criticism that I have leveled at ALL Evening based collections by designers... They are not entirely Viable in the Grand Scheme of the Fashion Industry. It simply does not compute to make a Well-Rounded Offering of fashion on a Diet of Sequins, Beads and Fishtails Alone!

But let's face it... Khan is an old hand at this and has a Masterful grasp in this Milleu! So, as flawed as an All-Evening Collection can be... this was one of the Best of the season. The Colours. The Embroideries. The BEAUTY!

Suffice it to say there were a COUPLE of outfits that had a Day-ish feel to them but In general, It was a Gung Ho Evening collection all the way to the end with a Dramatic and Regal Bride Gown to close.

Just to be indulge in the Glorious Excess of it all...  A few standout Exits... No. 1 to be sure was a Almost Bridal way to begin in a White Re-Embroidered Lace Gown that had an almost T-Shirt ease to it. Exit No. 7 was pretty awesome and perfectly in the Springtime mode in a Black Djellaba Caftan gown lavished with White Persian Floral Embroidery. Exit No. 28 was a Coral Orange Stunner of LAVISH Pansy Floral Sequin and Bead Embroidery that could teach Elie Saab a thing or four... it was FANTASTICAL! Exit No. 42 hit it out of the park as well in the softest Dawn Pink with Whorls and Swirls of Applique and Beading, DROP! DEAD! GORGEOUS!

So, Yes. It was All Evening, All The Time Chez Naeem Khan Spring 2014 But it was also perhaps the finest execution of all Evening attire to be seen so far. It was Mind Boggling and Achingly Beautiful To Boot!










That's All.











Bye4Now!