Friday, March 29, 2019

Polo Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.




Polo Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016.

From the first look in the Spring/Summer 2016 Lookbook for the Polo Ralph Lauren collection one knew that they were in for a treat and a very different offering chez Ralph. Firstly, there was an abundance of beautiful and to be honest, uncharacteristically vibrant floral prints and saturated Crayola hues that imbued Lauren's usual preppy austerity with a newfound sense of playfulness and energy. Lauren showed everything from Marigold Orange to Electric Lime and all the shades in between with an especial emphasis on Blue in it's variety of tones.

Elsewhere, there were the typical Lauren tropes, which when shown as foil to the joyful bounty of colours on display, showed to be even stronger in their relief to the virtuosity of the colours. From fringe to Menswear checks and denim, (Especially fine in an absolutely BRILLIANT Three-Piece pantsuit) the old standards here worked more so than ever and proved, in the most convincing manner, that the classics never go out of style, especially when given a jolt of eye refreshing colour!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, March 25, 2019

Novis Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.





Novis Spring/SUmmer 2016.

For Spring 2016 Jordana Warmflash crafted a damn excellent arrangement of pieces that were very architectural, colourful and above all, deeply interesting while also still being incredibly wearable for her Novis label. Working within a palette that consisted of mainly Grass Green, Lapis Blue, Cyan Blue and variants thereof, coupled in every outfit with Black and White, Warmflash's collection had a compellingly graphical element to it that created more interest than it's clean and lean and precise cuts and shapes conveyed. Though, every now and again, Warmflash stepped out a bit and showed something designed for the sake of beautiful fashion alone, most expertly envisioned in a gown of Black net embroidered with Matisse-like Blue flowers. A show stopper if ever there were one. Aside from such minute dalliances outside the spare assemblage of clothes, Warmflash showed how keen her eye is for Colour and Shape and gave a collection that excelled in giving those skills full room to breathe and soar.





That's All.





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Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.





Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2016.

There was something ideally comforting about Ulla Johnson's Spring 2016 collection that felt at once, homespun and also, thoroughly contemporary. Maybe it was because of the familiar American West/Southwest inflection to most of the collection, or because Johnson didn't apply too much intellectualism to the clothes and just designed things that were created to make you feel good and smile. Not to say great amount of thought wasn't spent on the collection, but the key to that win is that even though ample thought has been expended, the results look effortless. They most truthfully did.





That's All.





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Saturday, March 23, 2019

Nicole Miller Spring/Summer 2016

Fri. 09/11/2015.






Nicole Miller's Raison d'Etre is not to reinvent the wheel, it's not even to reinvent herself. She's firmly of the school of thought that there is no need to tamper with a formula that is working to try and appeal to a new range of clientele. To that end, Miller is well aware that her fanbase stretches across all strata and social layers and encompasses a wide swath of women, from all corners of the fashion playing field. 

Her Spring 2016 collection didn't in even any remote way move her needle beyond the comfortable furrow she has successfully plowed for more years than she might care to count. In that respect, it was admirably reliable and refreshingly commercial without being trite or boring. What it was not was particularly exciting or innovative, treading waters that she has trod many times before, this time sparked up a bit with Graffiti/Brick Wall prints that offered some feeling of newness, but ultimately, were just nascent additions to her already well spoken fashion vocabulary.





That's All.





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Givenchy Ready-To-Wear Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.






Let's forget the emotional connotations of showing on 9/11 14 years after the disaster and making a fashion spectacle that channels that horrific moment in time to present a pretentious, ostentatious, laboriously sentimental hour of insipidness that in it's aching artsy-ness did nothing but infuriate at such a ridiculous conceit that fashion can relate or be the balm to soothe the broken hearts and bones of those who lost so much in the attack. Let's forget that all and not dwell on how insulting it is and even more insulting to engage Instagram celebrities and worthless Reality Celebs or the over inflated ego of artist Marina Abramovic, to rally round this excessive monstrosity and make the display even more cheap and tawdry. Let's just erase that from our minds and focus only on the clothes...

Shall We? 

If we do that, then we see that Riccardo Tisci presented a pretty much awe-inspiring collection, full of the best possible versions of all of his usual tropes, (let us be honest, this was not Tisci at his most creative, and pushing himself into new possibilities. This was as much a recycling and re-fabricating of all his "Greatest Hits" as anything he's ever done!) From the opening passage of tailored pieces counterpointed by lacier, more lingerie styling rendered in Black and White to the even more graphic Men's section that followed, Tisci was working his groove with particular elan. This progressed into Tisci's usual histrionics and over indulgence, from the few Haute Couture pieces that were sauntered down the runway to the lavish face embellishment and exotica.

The one immediate take away from the collection, other than Tisci executed his collection totally in Black and White and that lace was present in each and every exit, was that with this limited colour schema, perhaps Tisci was hitting a kind of fashion reset button, playing out variants of old ideas in new formats and keeping them freshened up by limiting the palette, was that Tisci has a distinct and discernible idea of what his Givenchy woman wants and how she wants to be seen. Rather that is an all encompassing view of womanity is another thing entirely, The outlandish, and onanistic display of this collection was almost enough to sink it to the bottom of the water that the show was presented on and beside, However, Tisci saved it by creating a multitude of ideas that cohesively and comprehensibly mined his oeuvre thus far at the house. Whatever one feels about that said oeuvre, the undeniable fact is that these are clothes for those who know the power of fashion. And, that in and of itself is more a statement than any other intellectual or emotional embrace could ever provide.





That's All.





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Friday, March 22, 2019

Pamella Roland Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2016.






Spring 2016 was a typical outing for evening designer Pamella Roland. That translates into, that it was full of clothes for the Well-To-Do types that live on the Upper Sides of Manhattan (East and/Or West) or any city in the country were those who have Charity Balls, Art Exhibits or just Red Carpet moments in general. The collection, as usual, was not on the cutting edge, nor did it aspire to be so or have any need of doing such, Roland's customer isn't looking for any statement too far beyond a Magnificent entrance making piece that is well entrenched in the classic with a modern twist. 

On that end, Roland delivered wonderfully, replete with new words to her fashion vocabulary to keep things interesting and current. Origami folds on some gowns were a welcome addition, especially since most often they showed off a vibrant reverse colour to the obverse of the fabric, deliciously executed in a Sea Blue Shantung dress with folds that revealed Apple Green underneath. Roland otherwise, was in her wheelhouse, with a bit of extra interest imbued by drawing inspiration from artist Frank Stella, which accounted for some of the more vibrant shades and geometrical aspects. 

Roland's collection was in no way, groundbreaking, nor need it be so. Roland isn't a at-the-fore kind of designer, she's great at working the niche she's firmly embedded in and exalting her personal fashion ideals to their highest point. In the eternal words of olde, "If it ain't broke, Don't fix it!" 





That's All.





Bye4Now!
 

Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Zimmerman Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.





Zimmerman Spring/Summer 2016.

The exquisite ornateness of the Zimmerman 2016 Spring/Summer collection was at times, a smidge overwhelming and distracting from the beautifully rendered and executed pieces whose feelings of Victoriana and fantastical romanticism rendered a collection full of surprise and feminine splendour. Nicky and Simone Zimmerman were taken by an 1800's Australian novel called "Seven Little Australians" and the underlying "Naughtiness" of the novel which the sisters described as "Very Mischievous" this mischief added a underlying sense of edge and bite to the frothy frippery that the designers strode forth down their runway this season.

Firstly, the sister's intricacy of design is majorly breathtaking, these are clothes that you do not need deep examination of to tell the immense technique and hours of production imbued in each piece, from elaborate ruffles, pleats and lace treatments to fitted bodices and waistlines. Secondly, high necks and covered bodies lent to the Victorian theme in particular, however with not a hem hovering anywhere south of the knee, it was a modern, sexified version of Victoriana. The Zimmerman sisters also kept the palette romantical and girly, Blush, White, Pale Blue were the most prevalent. Black made it's appearance only at the end and was integrated with White to soften the colour and also add a graphic element that the flower prints earlier in the collection did not add.

The collection was a monument to feminine beauty and sartorial romance with a definite, of today edge, though to reiterate, scaling back some of the piling on of details, would have served the collection a bit better, the overdose of elaboration led to visual fatigue at times and the sisters proved that they could simplify and still stun, a Greyish Blue swing dress with an oversized ruffle at the bodice and strappy shoulder detailing gave much evidence to this fact. Saying that, the collection was still a major masterpiece and stunned from beginning to end.





That's All.





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Monday, March 18, 2019

Sally LaPointe Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.





Sally LaPointe Spring/Summer 2016.

Luxe Minimalism works very well for designer Sally LaPointe. Known primarily for her cozy and luxuriant knits mixed with expensive fabrications, ie... Fox, Leather and the like, this collection was a departure in the sense that LaPointe had to mine different veins to find her luxe caliber niche this season. She did so swimmingly. Her Spring/Summer 2016 collection was a modernistic approach to sportswear with an almost intellectual bent to it that served it exceptionally well. LaPointe's fashion this season, while urban and gritty, was also beautifully richesse with tony beading and sequin effects abound.

LaPointe kept her colour scheme reserved yet bold, Black, White, and Steel Grey kept the collection grounded in reality as did Vanilla and Coffee Brown, (most effective in a Pony skin coat). Cayenne Red lent a dash of heat to the rather cerebral and cool countenance of the collection, but did not distract from the key theme of minimal luxury. Later, a whisper-y Frost Blue brought that coolness factor to the freezing point and was especially desirable when it was paired against that peppery shade of Red near the end of the collection in a long trench and equally lean and long dress. LaPointe's collection was perfectly executed and brilliantly judged, it was an exercise of restrained, minimalistic and intelligent design and left one wanting more. That's always best in cases such as this!





That's All.





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Sunday, March 17, 2019

Kate Spade New York Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.






Kate Spade's Creative Director Deborah Lloyd was unabashedly taken with flowers for the Spring 2015 season and the results were an unequivocal success. The collection Lloyd presented, even though awash in floral prints, was mainly executed in Navy, Black and White with sprightly shots of colour and a refreshing amount of Beige to keep the fantasy grounded in reality. Where there was a hint of Coral Pink and a few washed out pastels, the main colour focus was on a fresh, yet not eye-wateringly vibrant shade of Daisy Yellow that was also translated, in the last act of the looks into daisy prints. 

A particular standout was a Sequined stripe dress and pair of shorts that paired Snow White with Zingy Tropical colours and shined more for the happiness of the shades used, more so than the sequins could ever embody. Those plated sequins showed up on Black and White stripes as well and were equally enticing. Pretty in Pink floral prints in both Pink and a Black/White, were writ oversized and attention getting, and both versions were garden ready, while a stylized Daisy Lace in Spectator Black and White added dimension and texture as well as a good bit of whimsy and throwback kitsch. 

While the collection had a Fun, Flirty and Fresh vibe, there was something innately Lady-like about the entire showing that was mouthwateringly delicious and welcome. It was sophisticated, but not in the least bit stuffy or uptight, there was a relaxed Joie de Vivre that permeated each and every look and translated into smile-inducing outfits that not only had remarkable ease, but also immense charm. Lloyd truly was totally on point here and it showed, effortlessly so! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!