Rebecca Minkoff.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Rebecca Minkoff.

Citing Photographs of the great Master Fashion Photographer, Deborah Turbeville, Rebecca Minkoff's Spring 2015 collection took the less sultry, disturbing elements of Turbeville's work out of the Equation and created a Lighthearted and Playful Collection full of Colour and Saucy Attitude. The First Act of this Steamy play (when Turbeville is invoked, there's gonna be some steam!) was a little Wan and a bit too Cutesy Girlish to resonate with any real force, by Exit No. 10 though, things were beginning to take shape. From that point on, The looks grew stronger. They never really solidified into anything more than Fluff, but it was Pretty Fluff.

Minkoff showed Fresh Stripes and Denim looks as well as playful Colour combinations that gave the the collection a Slightly 70's Boho vibe and with the Floppy Jodie Foster "Taxi Driver" hats and Floaty dresses, that vibe was Further reinforced. The throwaway Gimmick of the 3-D Floral Finale was notable not for it being effective but more so for being quite a Yawn Inducing Trick that only inspired Minkoff Acolytes and was approached with about as much seriousness as a J-Pop song! Much more interesting were the White Lace pieces that appeared beforehand, especially the long Lace Halter gown that was a True Beauty.

Minkoff's show didn't do much to get the juices flowing, one could say it was a Pleasant Distraction. Saving that, it lacked any sense of Force or real memorable interest. These clothes will appease her loyalists, but in most circles will be quickly forgotten and discarded. 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Jason Wu.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Jason Wu.

Say Goodbye to the Jason Wu of Yesteryear. The Fiercely Feminine, even slightly Madame character that was the past Wu Archetype has been encompassed within the New, Less Exaggeratedly Femme Construct of the House. In past seasons, this struggle between the Old and New Jason Wu, has led to Uneven and Frankly Unappealing collections. Spring 2015 was the first peek into the Balanced new outlook for the house which even in rejecting all that was before and embracing the Modern Aesthetic of the house. This time Wu got it Right, and in a Major Way. 

The first step in the dance of getting to the look of the New Wu is incorporating something of the Old style, even as minuscule as that may be, with the new. Where Wu has Faltered deeply in the past few seasons was falling too far away from the Tenets of his style while trying to evolve his style to what it has eventually become. This was the moment all the pieces fell into place. Wu's Femininity may be a little more on the Subdued side now, but it's in no way sublimated into non-existence, it just has taken on a different Guise. 

That manifested itself to start with as a Belted suit that had Vaguely Militaristic styling but was cut out of a Beautifully Airy Brushstroke print fabric and showed loads of leg with the wrap slit in the skirt. It inhabited a realm somewhere between Strict and Delicate. Powerful but still Soft. This Balanced Dichotomy was the secret ingredient in the Spring 2015 Wu Recipe. This was ever more evident in the Floating, Sensual dress that appeared a few exits later,

Even when Wu showed strength in his outfits, he threaded it with a Femme edge, A Slate Green Suede wrap coat, a Black Leather Shell paired with a Skinny Carbon Blue Pencil skirt, Or the Steely Perfection shown in a Palomino Colour Long sleeve Belted dress that was Full on Minimal but felt Far from Anonymous! Even his Evening options simmered with the Powerful undercurrent of Iron Tough Strength, The Beaded dresses were Sinfully Sexy revealing Leg and Back and Breast, each one a Stunner but the best of the Bunch was not a dress, but a Slender Blouse on Caroline Brasch Nielsen paired with Fluid Trousers that melded the Masculine/Feminine Halves Flawlessly! 

From here Wu went full on Glam, His duet of Evening gowns in Salmon and Navy Satin Chiffon were Drop-Dead Stunners from Top to Toe, but it was, Inevitably, Karlie Kloss that said the most in a Tea-Length Belted Shirt Dress in the same material, that was cut not to reveal, but to Infer and Infer It Did! It was Fragile and Sharp and caused a Catch of one's Breath! Hopefully, This will be the collection that focuses Wu on his True North. Wu has faltered for a few seasons too long with collections that have blurred his vision to the point of unrecognizable. This New Wu is a Synthesis of what he is trying to achieve and what he so easily achieved in the past, It's Exciting to see where this will propel Wu and his Fashion Vision. This being the first step in that Journey, One can look forward to the future with Renewed Confidence! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Wes Gordon.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Wes Gordon.

The New Minimalism. This is what occurred in the viewer's Mind as they witnessed Wes Gordon's Electrifying Spring 2015 Collection. Perusing this show, one witnessed a Synthesis of all the elements that make Wes Gordon... Wes Gordon! Distilled to a Crystalline Essence, Gordon has honed in on what his aesthetic is and how to best serve Said Aesthetic. There is an Unwavering and Frankly, Uncanny Channeling of the Minimalist period of the Early-to-Mid 90's that was embodied by the likes of Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang, and Narciso Rodriguez and even yes, Michael Kors who famously uttered about his Fall 1994 Collection that there wasn't "One Sequin, Feather, Or Bead in the ENTIRE Collection!" In some small, minute way, this collection brought to mind that Masterpiece of a collection. 

Gordon, Quite honestly, is one of the most Carefully Considerate designers in the business. His clothes are the pieces that are going to last the client a lifetime and look as Good 25 years from now as they In this Minute! Gordon is building his Brand on Unassailable Technical Facility and Design, and this Collection had both of those factors in Spades! Even in comparison to his 2014 Collections, Gordon has Pared back his aesthetic even more so. All that remained was the Essential Design Elements and his Magical usage of Fabric.

Gordon's collection focused on Design Purity and Simplicity, However, Simplicity did not mean Plainness or Boring. The collection simmered with a Sensual undercurrent that was garbed in the Flawless Chic of his Classic yet slightly skewed Sportswear. The Opening Exit hearkened back to the Calvin Klein Heady days of the 90's with an updated and Sleekly Severe Black Slip dress that gracefully slid over the body and revealed without being... Revealing! From this outpost, Gordon's Journey began and he traversed a path of Striking and Stringent Simplicity that never developed into the Boring or Banal.

A Black crewneck and White Pencil Skirt should have looked as basic as White Toast, but in Gordon's hands Simmered with Classic Chic, and a Papyrus coloured Suede Duster that surmounted a long Rib-Knit Black dress had Toughness and Gentleness in equal measure. A Linen coloured Pantsuit Had a Tomboy Strength to it that Gordon was careful in not sublimating so that it was Far more interesting than if he had Femmed it up any. This Tomboy quality is what infused the collection with such Modernity. Counterpointed by the more Bracingly Feminine aspects of the collection these two halves struck a Harmonious Balance.

Gordon has given Fine evidence with this Sharp, Sexy, Exactingly Edited collection, that he is ready to take his place as a Major Player on the Field of Fashion. This was, without One Iota of doubt, his Strongest showing and a Distillation of what is the Essence of Wes Gordon. Continuing forth in this way, he will in very little time be seen as the Luminary he is Destined to become. The Shine of his Star is already Quite Lustrous, It's only a matter of brief waiting for that Star to go Supernova!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Kate Spade New York.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Kate Spade New York.

Deborah Lloyd took a Step Back, a Deep Breath and decided to Take It Easy for Spring 2015. Lloyd's Kate Spade collection was not as Strong as the last few collections have been, But did what it needed to do and kept the collection Up-To-Date and Fresh. Lloyd was looking to create a wardrobe for Relaxing, be that Poolside as in a Pool Reflection Print, or Hanging out in the Park, or just some good old Sitting on the lawn reading a book Leisure time. Who says leisure needs to be Jeans and Flip-Flops!?!? 

Lloyd's best pieces in the collection were the ones that still looked like Fashion and not Loungewear. there was a play between Chic, Simpler pieces and More Dressy, Elegant Wear. The elegant pieces won out handily, A Rose print on a Striped Full-Skirted dress was Delightful, As was a Prim and Pristine White shift decorated with Sequin Flowers. The rest of the pieces skewed slightly less "Fashion" and did disappoint slightly. They were a Smidge too Everyday, even though they were more Upmarket than your basic Chain Store offering. 

Kate Spade has been Upping the ante recently, competing with the more major players in the Fashion Arena, This felt like, as Aforementioned above, A Step Back. It wasn't Lloyd's Strongest showing, nor her best, but it will keep things moving along nicely and Serve it's Clients well. Perhaps, Next Season will see that Sparkle that we had been witnessing return!  

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Peter Som.

Fri. 09/05/2014.

Peter Som.

Peter Som was in something of a Experimental mood for Spring 2015, which didn't always play out for the best. Within the context of the experiments, the clothes looked very Forced and Tricky, but when Som let his natural instincts take over, things looked Incredible. His Bizarre and Distracting colour scheme at times was Offbeat in a very Insouciant way. When it didn't work, it had the effect of being Queasy Making.

There was much going on to Assail the eye. Off-Colour Floral combos and Colour Blocking were awkward, less awkward though than the Apron like wrap skirts that were layered on top of Shirts, Dresses and Skirts. These "Aprons" were Unfortunate and Unpleasantly Unattractive. At times, Som did hit the Right notes and the results were Quite Spectacular. A Simple Kiwi Green Snakeskin Sheath dress under a coat in a Brocaded Floral print was one of these Right notes. As was a Maxi Dress in Bold Blocked stripes in Navy, White, Almond and Kiwi was just the thing for an Evening on the Beach or Summer in the City.

The Axiom holds true, The Simpler, The Better. When Som let the purity of his work shine through, These outfits were winners, a Billowy White Shirt over Swim briefs, Or a Avocado Green Robe Coat over a Floral print shift.  A Glamourous Black Chiffon Floral print gown in Green, White and Orange at Exit No. 27 Had a De La Renta Flair to it, as did the GORGEOUS Finale Ballgown in Strapless Iridescent Carrot Orange Faille.

Som gave an Uneven if, Exuberant effort this season. It had those moments of Signature Som, Like that Striped Maxi Dress, which sang like an Opera Diva, but much of the time, this felt like a Misguided venture with Less than Satisfactory clothes littering the path. The High Points were indeed Mountainous, the disappointing opposite of that is that the Low Points, Well... Were Canyon Deep in Scale!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tome.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Tome.

Beginning a little Underwhelmingly, the Tome Spring 2015 collection designed by the Duo of Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo, Settled into it's Groove after a few exits, It Really did Groove! Gleaning Inspiration from Two Indian Artists, Photographer Dayanita Singh and Dancer Rukmin Devi. India was the Starting point, but the collection felt as American and Urban as any other collection shown this season, the Exotic overtone lent an air of the Faraway, but the clothes were rooted firmly at home. 

The opening pieces set the tone and were convincing enough, but had an Awkward air to them that begged for the pieces to be reconfigured in ways different than Martin and Lobo showed them. Around Exit No.10, things Snapped Firmly into focus and the Sailing was smooth from then on. As Rote as it may sound, it is a time tested, Tried and True Axiom, The Simpler, The Better. This was much the case today, as Lovely as the Elaborate pieces were, when Lobo and Martin kept things simple, It was Winning... A Black Lace and Plisse Satin Chiffon Dress on Ajak Deng... A sash waisted Black-on-White Pinstripe Shirtdress... The Slinky Black Plisse gown that ended the show. 

Lobo and Martin have Gained a lot of attention very Quickly and it is befitting them. They are Extremely Talented Designers and with the Crowd overflowing with Design Duos that are making their Marks, currently, One has the feeling that the Tome Duo is going to be among the Wheat Separated from the Chaff. Lobo and Martin have the goods to be one of the Upcoming Power Players in Fashion, New York and Beyond. It'll be truly gratifying to see how they change the face of fashion as they grow more Established. 

That's All.

Bye4Now.

Costello Tagliapietra.

Thurs. 09/04/2014.

Costello Tagliapietra.

As of late, Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra have been mining their own Sartorial lifestyle, Hence Cardigans and Plaids, Especially. for cues in their collections. This has generated quite refreshing results. Costello and Taglipietra are not designers who radically reinvent themselves season to season, Each Collection is a Continuation of the Dialogue that they have set down as the Gospel According to Jeffrey and Robert. Each new season they extend that Dialogue slightly further along, adding new words and phrases to the essential Lexicon of the brand, but by no means speaking in an entirely new tongue. So, What one sees when they view a Costello Tagliapietra collection is mush like a Satellite Orbiting around a Planet but never moving beyond that field of Gravity, but seeing different sides of that said planet as it circles it. 

Looking at the collections of the Duo from that Perspective, one is struck by how absolute the principles of their idioms are, but equally how they manipulate those Signatures and make them look different each season, but retain their Elemental and Inherent Similarity. It's Fascinating to watch and it makes their clothing Instantly Recognizable but never Stagnant or Boring. That They have managed to accomplish such a feat is due in no small part to their Dedication to their ideas and just plain old Spectacular Cut, Drape and Seam. 

Seaming in fact was the new focus this season as Costello and Tagliapietra explained that they were "Reevaluating (and Falling In Love with) the way they Put Together Clothes" and Equally, wanting to "Highlight Each piece by Delineating The Lines" of their Clothes. On the flip side of that equation the Duo admitted that they had been transfixed by David Lynch movies and more specifically, "Lost Highway" How exactly David Lynch and Costello Tagliapietra Cross-Pollinate is a Mystery to me, but it worked. No Small Miracle, That! 

In the case of the clothes themselves... Wonderful as always. The Opening Brocaded Silk suit with a Flippy, Swingy skirt in Zinc Blue was a Positive and New development for the bears of 7th Ave. It was Femme and Strong in Balanced Measure, while a China Blue dress with a pleated Circle skirt and Scarf like Asymmetric Bodice in Jersey was Signature Jeffrey and Robert. A draped Cerulean Blue Shadow Plaid dress with Solid Jersey Back also was typical of the house, But was Sexy as All Out Damn and Pretty much Perfect! 

A few other pieces stood out among the throng, they wore more Enthralling because of their Apparent Simplicity, yet there is nothing simple in achieving the Fluid ease that these Two do. A simple Crepe Jersey keyhole neckline dress in Dark Cadet Blue was Pure Mastery of the craft of dressmaking while the Turmeric and Cinnamon at Exit No. 21 had a Liquid Ease of Halston with the Louche Languidness of 70's era YSL. 

Costello and Tagliapietra put forth an, as always, Outstanding effort that continues to Define the House Signatures while carefully moving their ideas into new Spheres. One could blame them for not pushing their boundaries more Extravagantly and designing out of their Comfort Zone, But in the Grand Scheme of things, the masterful way they Reinterpret their own Fashion Identity from season to season without falling into a trap of redundancy is Quite the Exceptional Feat! Costello and Tagliapietra are not going to be radically redefining their standards any time in the foreseeable future, and the fact that they continue to Fascinate with their Body Exalting, Figure Limning, Physique Enhancing masterpieces, No one is really asking them To! 

That's All.

Bye4Now!