Miu Miu.

Tues. 10/02/2013.










Miu Miu.

Miuccia Prada's secondary (Not Diffusion) Label Miu Miu is like the less mercurial yet still Quirky and Eccentric Twin Sister of her Eponymous Label shown in Milan. That she shows in Paris just signifies that the Miu Miu woman is less inclined to drastic statements and more obeisant to quiet quirk. Less Balls-To-The-Walls Extrovertism and more Slyly Iconiclastic. Whatever the case may be labels are certainly not mirror images of one another.

For Spring 2014, Miuccia strolled down some of her favorite familiar territory, the Swinging Mod 60's of London. There was colour blocking in the opening outfits that felt fresh and vibrant due to the combinations of those Colours. The topcoats that began the collection were all the same but what was underneath gave them variety, in shades of Smoke Blue and Pink, or Butter Yellow and Cadet Blue, Brick Red and White, etc... They morphed into abbreviated suits in the middle and then back again into coats. Fearless colour was a hallmark of this collection and as such, was the thing that stood out the most.

In any Miu Miu collection there is some deeply intellectual play the Mythos of Femininity and Fashion, Here, it felt a little confused and downright stale to be honest! The Modish coats and the repetitious variants thereof, even in their Beauty, grew boring and uninspired. That Perverse Frisson usually Coursing so close to the surface of Prada's fashion treatises seemed here to be sublimated into something silly. The Confluence of her attack on "What is Classic? What makes something Classic?" fell a little flat. Miu Miu because of it's more cerebral bent sometimes comes off without any of the Joyous Disregard for taste or convention, And convention seemed to overwhelm this show with a patina of the ordinary!

Even when there were lavish Embroideries on coats and jackets in Arte Nouveau-Meets-Naive Flourishes, those pieces only worked to highlight the lesser moments in greater relief. Perhaps in her own perverse way, this is what Prada wanted to achieve, Though her conviction felt too wan.

There were treasures to be found here, and for some eye-catching coats, you won't really do better this season, but for pulse-racing creativity... Look on. The glaring fact is that this collection felt like a well worn path that Prada has trod on before, and to be matter-of-fact, perhaps trodden better!










That's All.










Bye4Now!