Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Erin Fetherston Spring/Summer 2016.

Thurs. 09/10/17.




Erin Fetherston Spring/Summer 2016.

Presenting a collection inspired by both Jane Birkin and Anne of Green Gables could be a undertaking fraught with fashion peril. Fortunately enough, in Erin Fetherston's sure hands, it was a naïf and demonstrably pretty collection for the grown up woman still in touch with her inner youthful self. To be clear, there were no big "WOW" moments or serious "Fashion" to be had, but with what was presented, there needn't had been those things, the collection stood on it's own for what it was, a feminine and romantic offering that had a distinct whiff of fairy tale, yet conceived in a modern vocabulary.

Fetherston struck a nice balance between girlish dresses and more urban sportswear, giving us a floaty frock here then counterpointing that with a knit tank and culottes or a femme top paired with sharp Navy trousers. Little surprise, the dresses were the items that fared the best, and Fetherston offered up one delight after another, especially her finale trio of White gowns that could easily work for the modern romantic as a less traditional and fussy bridal option. Fetherstone was right in her niche this go round, there was little in the way of surprise, but much in the way of prettiness and enjoyment. The wheel need not be reinvented when it obviously works just fine the way it is.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Kimora Lee Simmons Spring/Summer 2016.

Thurs. 09/10/17.






After a few years hiatus of divorce, remarriage, birth of a son, another divorce and finding herself a loving Billionaire for a third husband, Kimora Lee Simmons has been through a whole fucking lot since her relationship with her previous design house, Baby Phat was dissolved in 2010. Bringing world wide attention and assimilation of hip-hop couture and urban luxe fashion to the public, much of the current fashion landscape can be laid at her and her former husband and business partner and father of her two daughters (Ming and Aoki) Russell Simmons feet with no sense, eve of overstatement or insincerity to that claim. 

Her new fashion venture could not be any further from the celebratory days of Baby Phat, Here her KLS Collection is deeply Smart and Sophisticated and with a penchant for Bod-Con dresses (sort of like Celeb-turned-designer Victoria Beckham's clothes were at her labels inception) with a flattering cut and sleek aesthetic. Simmons' Spring/Summer offering was brief, but impactful, shaved down and pared back to an essential emphasis on graphic executions of Black and White with a touch of Hot Pink and Navy for contrast and a throw in a Silver Lamé draped gown for good measure too! Keeping lengths modest, but still sexy was the overarching theme of the showing.

Without a single note of hyperbole, every outfit was a high, there wasn't one low in the bunch. Simmons cast a gimlet eye on the edit and kept everything laser focused, which produced a worthwhile and exciting effort. Simmons has the background and with this collection as proof, the skill to further propel her new venture to the highest echelons of success, and if the results are, going forward, this excellent, the heavens are her limit!





That's All.





Bye4Now!


BCBG Max Azria Spring/Summer 2016.

Thurs. 09/10/2015.





BCBG Max Azria Spring/Summer 2016.

As of late, Lubov and Max Azria have been, it would seem, throwing every possible thought and idea at a wall, at once and seeing what sticks and then cobbling together an incoherent and sloppy mishmash mess and calling it a collection. Spring 2016 sees them narrow their focus slightly, but with still skewed results. Claiming their inspiration came from their hometown of Southern California, specifically, The City Of Angels. What that translated into was Surfer and Skater vibes shot through with a touch of Californian bohemian, and what did that all come to? Another slipshod performance that failed to move itself beyond the inexplicable.

There was much to take in, long, short, layers, floral prints, bucket hats, shorts, virtually not one outfit was not expressing multiple personalities from top to bottom. Even the simplest of outfits were bogged down by an overabundance of nonsense. The salient takeaway was that, deconstructed, the pieces would work nicely, but together as conceptualized, the looks bordered on foolish. Yet, rather than prattle on about the lows let us look at the highs... Um... Ok. Then, let's just end this now. Fini!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, August 17, 2017

Sachin + Babi Spring/Summer 2016.

Thurs. 09/10/2015.





Sachin + Babi Spring/Summer 2016.

In what was a pretty straightforward, modern, graphic and brief Spring/Summer 2016 Sachin + Babi collection, Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia showed that they know their way around an evening dress. The Wife/Husband duo presented a less elaborate collection than what is the usual for them, with much less frills and bedazzling than to be expected. A minimalist streak found itself firmly entrenched in this collection and led to some superb garments in this slightly less than stellar showing.

A slim White sheath dress was given a punch of colour with an off the shoulder band in a vivid Orange/Marine Bleu floral print, which catapulted it from just ordinary, to at the most, memorable. That same print showed up a few times, though was most effective as deceptively simple cocktail number with pin pleated side panels. The Ahluwahlia's collection wasn't setting any fires of unquenchable passion by any means, but any woman could find herself a snazzy number here to make her evening shine a little brighter than most, and truly, sometimes, that's more than enough.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, July 31, 2017

Creatures Of The Wind Spring/Summer 2016.

Thurs. 09/10/2015.





Creatures Of The Wind Spring/Summer 2016.

Thinking outside the traditional fashion box is something that is bandied about over many a designer, and just because said designer might be offering something slightly more esoteric than what the fashion crowd is used to, does not make it actually so that they are thinking anywhere near outside the box. When it comes to Creatures Of The Wind designers Christopher Peters and Shane Gabier, the thinking outside the norm assertion is wholeheartedly, the unvarnished truth. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection provided ample corroborative proof of this, in a collection that was equally idiosyncratic as it was haute and wearable.

Peters posited the query before the show, "When does something that's come and gone, come back into fashion?" Well, Good Damn Question! For Peters and Gabier the answer it would seem for this outing was a forward motion approach that encompassed many different styles and eras that have come and gone and frappé them together into a cohesive unified statement that exemplified all the hallmarks of Peters and Gabier unique fashion perspective. As per usual, the duo took a eclectic view of the fashion they love, through a retrospective prism that time traveled through multiple decades and eras and somehow managed to never feel vintage-y, but did have a kind of cuckoo sensibility which imbued the collection with a vivre which made one smile in delight at the duo's sublime mix mastery.

The best takeaway, surprisingly, was that the most covetable outfits, were the most simplistic utterances. For your consideration, a stunning reefer coat in a Bronze Brocade tapestry print was casually worn atop a pair of killer lean Black Leather trousers and a colour-blocked top in Black, White and Rust Red, all the eccentricity was found in the pattern of the coat, but otherwise, a city chic assemblage for any woman of any style stripe. Or, try on for size, Exit No. 32 on Maria Borges, which had all the earmarks of Uptown, worn with a Downtown flavour, Black Topcoat worn with a sliver of a print skirt and textured White top was channeling ODLR in the best sense of the word.

Gabier and Peters have a rather bighearted and whimsical way with presenting serious fashion, one that keeps the eye of the viewer engaged and at attention, a fine talent to be sure. If the duo keeps presenting brilliant envisioned collections as they have been, they could become part of the new guard of NY Fashion Heavy Hitters. One hopes in the utmost for that to come to pass.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Sunday, July 30, 2017

Nicholas K Spring/Summer 2016.

Thus. 09/10/2015.






The Nicholas K woman of Spring 2016 is an Urban Adventuress cloaked in "Mad Max" Caliber nomadic layers and tough, yet pretty, swaths of fabric rustling about her in billowing and voluminous amounts! Nicholas and Christopher Kunz's Spring selections were a spectacular pre-future/post apocalyptic nomadic mishmash that summoned images of the elegance of Bedouins, T. E. Lawrence and Paratroopers all in the same breath.

The saving grace of this look was the exciting juxtaposing of roughness and lightness, using featherweight parachute nylons and filmy chiffons, the militaristic styling and cuts imbued the rigid uprightness of the Martial outfits of soldiers and paratroopers with a flowing liquidity that merged into something if not exactly quixotic, certainly quirky! One could take the designers to task for perhaps one too many riffs on this trope, because the collection felt somewhat overloaded with ideas, there was never per se, an exact repeat of an outfit, but far too many variants on the theme at hand. While this was distracting, it did not detract from the proceedings so much as it led to a bit of visual fatigue.

The collection opened with shades of White from creamy to optic, and moved on through inky Indigo dip-dying, to Desert Bronze and Hazelnut Brown, to Black, Mahogany and a rather spicy shade of deep Saffron that worked as the Kunz's one go at colour in the mostly dark and neutral palette of the collection. The Kunz's also counterpointed all those floaty and filmy fabrics with much tougher weather beaten leathers and suede as well as that urban favorite material, denim. These acted as a more hard edged foil to all the gossamer light material wafting down the runway and enhanced the look of those outfits by given them a bit more gutsiness and attitude.

When it was all said and done, Nicholas and Christopher put down a a seriously chic showing fit for the Urban Road Warrioress. It may have had it's hiccups, which were admittedly, very few, but in the end, the collection was a major success.





That's All.





Bye4Now. 

Saturday, July 1, 2017

Victor Alfaro Spring/Summer 2016

Weds. 09/09/2015.






Comebacks are never really easy, and are usually fraught with disappointment and dejection, for one may have too high of hopes of what kind of reception they will receive upon trying to rise back up to the stature of former days. Victor Alfaro seems to have none of those thoughts clouding his mind and is just quietly, unassumingly, doing his own thing and doing it well and reaping the benefits from simple, honest, hard work. He doesn't even seem to entertain the idea of "Comeback" for him it just was the right time to get back to what he was doing previously.

What that, gladly, translates into for Spring/Summer 2016 was a collection full of riches to plunder for the woman that came of age in Alfaro's Fashion Heyday, and it was altogether evident that the aesthetic Alfaro mined and was one of the prime arbiters of in the halcyon 90's is still fully intact, but calibrated to today's moment and the woman of this time, even if she is the same woman of 20 years ago! A richesse sense of the relaxed permeated Alfaro's Excellent collection, Languid would be a spectacular word. Louche would be too, but it implies something more overtly sensual than what Alfaro is offering. His clothes drape and swish around the body in bias-cut perfection, now tweaked with inventive seaming and cutting techniques and more liquid fabrics that have developed since the 1990's.

Alfaro had a somewhat Southwestern vibe pulsating through the collection, that offered up a couple utterly delicious Blanket Coats that hinted towards the Native as well as Georgia O'Keefe. That Southwestern tone was reflected in the pallette, with shimmery, sandy tones and a strong Orange-y Yellow that evoked the Navajo in it's colouration. Even saying that, the sense of modern, minimal, urbanism was what was evoked most. Alfaro is equipping his woman to be as much a Urban nomad as a windswept desert wandering one. Although, it'd be hard to imagine his woman wandering any desert (with the exception of Palm Desert) in his Jaw-Slackening bias-cut gowns that he showed early in the collection in Black, and then reiterated at the finale with a trio of gowns in luminous moonlight shades, colour blocked by using intersplicings of sheer net. It was a quietly powerful example of Alfaro's talent and for the woman craving that retro aesthetic updated for right this minute, it couldn't have been a more spellbinding present! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!