Friday, January 30, 2015

Alberta Ferretti.

Weds. 09/17/2014.






It was a Typically Beautiful Collection from Alberta Ferretti for Spring 2015. It was one that was full of her Hallmark Romantic and Diaphanous beauty. It was also, nothing Exciting, or particularly Fresh either. We have seen this side of Ferretti many times, perhaps this was one of the best iterations, but still it wasn't as if any New Ground was being Broken. Add to that, it was a GENEROUS handful too many outfits in the Edit, Ferretti could have excised 10-12 outfits in the collection in the name of Concision. 

With mainly Fleshy, Nudish tones as her palette with some Pale Pastels as counterbalance, Ferretti splayed herself in her Pre-Raphelite Garden and Dreamed a Dream of Floaty Maxi Dresses and Buoyant shapes that while very pretty, felt Wan and Spineless. All that Make-up coloured Lace and Chiffon began to read as Blah by the time the show ended, Mercifully, when Colour was injected it pulled the collection from the Doldrums of a Fog of Nude! A Maxi Denim skirt that Transmuted into Denim Lace and then into Organza paired with a Simple crop top was Currying Maximum favour, while the Frumpy dress that followed looked Sack-like and Unfortunate. Another Crop top in a Multicolour Floral/Stripe hybrid print paired with a Big, Floaty skirt with a Wrap Slit front in a Floral/Plaid Hybrid Print was Sublime!

But then Boho, Hippy Fringe came out and except for that Beauty of a Nacre Pink colour coat on Anna Ewers, was doing Justice to nothing it touched. The ending of White was a Refreshing close, Simply though it was a case of the Too Lates! Ferretti collection wasn't bad, It truth, It was Gorgeous. It also was way too similar to the Oeuvre that Ferretti has been working for Nigh on a many year now. It's a good thing to keep one's favorite things close at hand, it's also a good thing to Venture out and discover new things... and find what among those can become new favorites... Something tells me, It's Time for Alberta Ferretti to get out of the house and get some fresh air! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Gucci.

Weds. 09/17/2014.






As Last Collections go, Frida Giannini's Fare Thee Well to the House of Gucci was a Blockbuster! As of now, EVERYONE Knows Ms. Giannini was Booted from the House the Horse Bit Built. They have her Right hand Man, Alesandro Michele now taking her place, and who know where that will lead... But one can say that it was an Absolutely FOOLISH move for the Bigwigs to Unceremoniously Oust Frida! She was in the Flower of some of her best work for the house and was keeping it Fresh, Diverse and Lively. As well as, Extremely Beautiful! But, Alas, I am not the one in charge, so I can only Lament her Absence and hope Michele has the Stuff to make Gucci Still resound!

As for Giannini, Short and Sweet and to the point. No need to linger. With Equal interest in Chic, Soft Military and Glam Deluxe Boho, Giannini posited a Breathtaking Treatise on Strictness Counterpointed by Exuberant Freedom. With White to open and Pre-Cleanse the Palate, Giannini used the Colour to Stunning, Sharp effect. It looked Easy but Glam still, even though it had the Flavour of the Military. Then the Furs, and the Prints, and the Lacing came out and it was Lisa Taylor in Vogue! 

Another point, All of Giannini's Hallmarks were touched upon... Denim, Suede, Leather, And the COLOURS! Oh, My God! THE COLOURS! Indigo, Saffron, Cherry, Brick, Bottle Green, Violet... All In Rich Versions of the hues! The throw in those Mouthwatering Japanese Prints... It was A Done Deal Then! And when Giannini ended with those Lavish embroidered dresses in those Japanese Vase Prints... I DIED! Just tears in the eyes Gorgeous! 

I am not going to make this into a Tribute to Giannini or a Diatribe about her dismissal. I will say, In the history of Frida's Work at the house, This was one for the Ages. It is twinged with sadness knowing that we won't see this kind of Exquisiteness again from the house, Michele seems to have his own views, But Hopefully the Sun will rise once again on Frida Giannini. And Soon! 

Arrivederci, Senora Giannini!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Milan Up Next.

Fri. 01/30/2015,



Dear Readers,

Catch-Up as always. LOL. In Milan for Spring 2015 reviews and trying to work through them Quickly. Fall is Approaching. FAST! Have Paris and then the Couture Shows (Chanel was A work of ART!) and By the time Fall hits... I'll be ready to Keep up. Hopefully if I DO fall behind, it'll only be by a couple/few days. Something I can catch up on. 

Wish Me Luck, Faithful Followers! 


Stay Fashionable! 


Yours, Always Truly,


Terrill Lawrence Sanford.

Tom Ford.

Mon. 09/15/2014.





Tom Ford.

Tom Ford was Looking Back. He might not have said so, He didn't have to really, But BY THE GODS, he was Looking Back. His Spring 2015 collection was like a re-imagining of some of his Greatest hits, too prolix all to list at once, but there it was! He'd probably deny it, But he would be lying! Ford's look back to a more Sexually Vibrant time, when Clinton was in the White house, When Sex Was Good and everybody was beginning to Feel their Cheerio's in whichever way that made them cum! In those Sweat Drenched Heydays... Ford was the Arbiter, Crown Prince, Barometer of all things Coital! He REVELED in it! He Squirmed about in it like a Meth Fueled Twink at a rave party. And he made it look OH SO DECADENTLY DESIRABLE! We all wanted to be Whores. And yes, We wanted the Money that came from Pimping out our Sex! There was a Strength in Being divorced from the Moral Shackles that Ford was Unbinding the world from! And Looking Rich and Sexy and Available all at the same time.

Times, Sadly have changed, as they do and such, The World ever turns and we turn with it. With all forms of Indulgence and Freedom of Sex and Self trying to be Suppressed and Repressed by Politics and Politicians and Preachers, The world is a Numb Place now, Suffused with the Bastard Children of the Good Days, The Simpleton Trash that are the Kardashians and The Miley's and The Innumerable other Stains on Humanity that proliferate now with no sense of Anything but their Next Blowing up of the Internet or Trifling Moment at one of their Concerts riding a Hot Dog! The women of The Gucci Heyday were Smart. Strong. They Stood for something. Perhaps the fallout of all that Sexual Empowerment was bound to be Mindless sluts with nothing but excellent Deep Throat Skills making money for being nothing more than a Purposely Circulated Video of Their Lack of a Gag Reflex.

Saying all that. Ford is trying to Bring us back to the World of those Iper-Women and their Brazen Iper-Sex! On the right women, Sex can be a Powerful Instrument of Change and Propulsion, Maybe, Ford scanned the landscape and saw... what we need now are those kind of Women who take up Sex as Weapon and As Force of Evolution and is speaking to them to Grab the Mantle back from the Dregs and Make Sex again Something to be Proud of rather than Embarrassed By! No Real Progress is ever made with out a Frisson of Disturbance. Ford's collection could be looked at as that Ripple.

The Clothes were Ford/Gucci Era Signatures... The Shiny Tight Flares Razor Sharpened with their Scalpel Precise pleats down the front paired with the Simple tops that this time were not unbuttoned down to there but were Super Luxe Plated Sequins cut into Mock Turtlenecks. The Louche/Luxe feeling of Coup-Fils cut into YSL-ish Pantsuits or those aforementioned Flares or a Teeny, Tiny Vagina Grazing Pencil Skirt. One thing surely to be seen... unlike his Gucci days, where the Statement was the Object, Here Ford's Tailoring skills were Simply Magisterial. Those Opening Black Suits were Painstakingly Couture in their cut and Showed it. It was the old Gucci Tropes, Amped up by Ford's new Couture Exactitude!

All the Best was there to take in, The Tranny/Hooker High Platforms that looked as good on the street as they did with those platform soles and Stiletto heels pointing towards a probably Mirrored Ceiling... A Shift/Tunic in Black with a simple open neck that had Turn-Lock Closures was surely giving us 90's something Ford. Or the little Metallic Sequined Nothings that had their Nipples Glittered like some Moulin Rouge Hussy of Ye Olde! It was SO GOOD, I don't even smoke and I felt like I needed a Cigarette after watching this Cavalcade of Sex!

This is the kind of Fashion that someone like Rihanna understands with Unassailable Ease. SHE, Just may be the Linchpin to the Grenade of Blowing up These Basic Ass Bitches that have Exploded to Fame with nothing more than a Blank Stare and A Humongous Ass... All things that someone who is as Prolifically Versed in ALL things that are Truly Sexual and Erotic, Like Ford is, Eschews with a VEHEMENCE that borders on the Xenophobic! As an aside, it was good to see that Ford didn't use that Squirrel Faced Bitch Kendall Jenner. God Bless!

Maybe Tom is trying to turn the world by Shocking it. It worked in the past like a Charm, and if anyone as the Skills to pay those Kind of Bills... It's Ford. Let's just hope this is Chapter One in the New Testament Of Sex. Author?  Well... Tom Mother Fucking Ford, Of Course!





That's All.





Bye4Now!






Thursday, January 29, 2015

Giles.

Mon. 09/15/2014.






Giles Deacon is one of those Fashion Sorcerers that can put on a show so Chaotically Magical and Lunatic that one is left Smiling and Unhinged at the same time. When he gets it right... There's Immense Romance and Masterful Buffoonery of that English sort that is never, Ever, Lowbrow. It's always, Cheeky, Daring, A little Superior in it's Inflection and always DRY! In Deacon's Spring 2015 we find this and more. Deacon was in a Wildlife Mode... which is only Natural as one may remember he was inspired by BATS for Spring '14 so Wildlife, Snakes, Leopards, A Bird or two, seem nothing out of Deacon's Groove. 

Mixing High and Low in his collections as always yielded Breathtaking Couture Quality, Ballgowns one minute... Slouchy T-Shirt Dresses the Next or Innocent (Seemingly) Bib-Front shifts decorated with pleats juxtaposed against Painstakingly Exacting cut-out Lame Leathers that looked like Exotic Flora! There were So Many pieces of Wonder and Delight to behold, that it was honestly a Banquet of looks to pick from! A simple Petal Pink Jumpsuit is a nice place to start! 

From there, where to go... A Spectacularly cut Black Jacquard suit embossed with Leopard Paw prints, Or the Caftan that looked like it had been Airbrushed. adorned with a Awing Bird-in-Flight Print that was Elegant and Classic. Partake of the Snake printed Ballgown with Long sleeves or the Two Leopard Print "Balenciaga" Hi-Lo hem Ballgowns that were Screaming Parisian Couture! The Best though was a Cape Gown on Tami Williams in Snow White with a Giant Leopard Paw Embroidered on the Shoulder, Utterly Captivating and Jaw-Dropping! 

Deacon is known for his Kooky brand of Demi-Couture meets the Dance Hall vibe, he played those cards for their worth in this collection... And Won! It was a Spectacular Worthy of De Mille (Agnes or Cecil!) and Deacon has once again proved his Mettle. This was a Favorite of mine this season, and once you give it a look, it should be one of yours, Too! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Christopher Kane.

Mon. 09/15/2014.






By the looks of things, this was one of Christopher Kane's Best collections come Spring 2015. It wasn't Exhaustingly Experimental or Hopelessly Tricky. It did indulge in both elements, but tempered with a Sobriety that was Warmly Welcome. The Motif of Rope and Knots was not to be underplayed, There was a Symbolism there, Tying things from his past to things of his future, especially since the collection was Dedicated to and Inspired by his Professor at Central Saint Martins, Louise Wilson, whom had recently passed. Wilson was Central to all the talent coming out of that Bastion of Creative thinking that IS Central Saint Martins... Under her Tutelage, she was responsible for Talents like Alexander McQueen, Kane, and his Contemporary, Jonathan Saunders as well as many others. 

Kane, Perhaps in a more somber mode, translated his solemnity into much more approachable fashion this time out. But let's not get too comfortable... Kane kept things Just interesting enough to Honour his own sensibilities and the training of his Teacher. The ropes and knots that started as accents on the clothes in totally functional ways blossomed Outward, Upwards, Downwards and Around-Wards as they began to snake around the Body in ever more Contorted Configurations. They became, as the show moved on, less about function and more about Symbolic embellishment. Knots and Rope can have some very Sexual connotations, and Kane exploited that with his Nervy use of Sheerness as a play against the Motif. 

A sheer slip dress on Katlin Aas was Sinuously traced with Multicolour "Ropes" but still preserved the Unnerving sheerness that made it slightly Dangerous and Improper. Always good things! This was early in the show and was to be set aside as Kane proved his Tailoring skills were things to be reckoned with also... a Maroon Skirt suit Duchesse Satin was bound at the waist by Two rope cords tied around the Torso and looked Drop Dead DIVINE, As did the Black Pantsuit that would come later in the same style.

As the show rounded the Bend towards Home Plate, Those Ropes Came back, In Colours, as well as more densely done in Black which looked like a Delightfully Contrived and Elaborate De Facto Lace. It was Breathtaking to say the least. Here, with this Collection, One feels Kane has moved onto something more than just trying to prove how Clever it is to be Clever! His experiments usually weigh down his collections with so much over indulgent Twaddle, that the clear Genius of his work is smothered. Hopefully he is on the path of Enlightenment and of Lightening his Oeuvre. When one can experience results like this from such Unfettering... The Craving for More Grows quite Strong! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Burberry Prorsum.

Mon. 09/15/2014.





Burberry Prorsum.

Tim Blanks said something Extremely Telling about what has become something of the Modus Operandi of the House that Christopher Bailey, Rejuvenated. That Bailey's Offerings are teetering on the Edge of "Cliche" And Goddamn it if he didn't hit the Nail on the head. As Blanks pointed out, Bailey even had the same old, Sad hat in Hand Troubadour (This Time James Bay) Wailing Sad, Sappy, DREARY songs. So, One has to ask, Why? Well... Bailey is the Captain of his own Destiny really. He cannot be fired, He's CEO. And with that kind of Cushion of Safety, he can feel unfettered to do exactly as he pleases. That in one sense has lent an Experimental and Daring newness to the at times before, Beautiful, But Safe and Staid Burberry offerings. Now, each season plays out like Bailey is seeing just how far he can Push the label off of it's moorings yet still keep the Essence recognizably... BURBERRY!

For Spring 2015, if he didn't exactly Rip the house from it's moorings, he damn sure pushed it way beyond Comfort. With the Moronically simplistic Entitling of "The Birds And The Bees" which held the undertone of the Sexual and Naive in it, Bailey Started out Beautifully, with the Delicate beauty that is Hometown Girl Malaika Firth in a Curvaceous Denim jacket and Pencil skirt paved with Saucer Sized Sequins had a Vibrancy and Freshness that echoed the Naivete of the theme... However, as the World kept Turning... things began to go Wonky.

The First Fault.. All that repetitious Denim. It grew Staid quicker than Soda Crackers left out overnight. And those Botched experiments in Swathed Pleated Tulle. Unfailingly Unattractive. The English Eccentric in Bailey showed up FOR REAL this time after Peeking out last Fall... Then with much better results than now. And what's with all the Leggy Sheerness? It was a Gambit that Didn't work and Became Increasingly Distracting and grew Ever More Vulgar.

It was around this moment that it seemed Bailey regained his senses... For a While... A few Printed Trenches were this side of HEAVEN, as were the Abstract Floral print dresses with Tulle Belts. The couple of Experiments in Patent Leather paired with either Denim or Suede made to look like Denim were winning efforts too. And then... it began to go to Pot, again... and we were faced with more Bedraggled Mutations of Pleated, Swathed Tulle that was something that should have been aborted before it made it's way down the Catwalk.

The show ended Gloriously, and Riotously, As Bailey flipped the Burberry Trench on it's head and sent out a Parade of Whimsical Printed Trenches that were as desirable as anything the house has ever produced... but by this time... it was certainly a case of Far Too Little, Far Too Late! Bailey, Now with Absolute control of the house that the Check Built, Has taken to indulging his whimsy and doing things HIS Way without worrying too much, about how it's perceived by the Bigwigs. He is the HMIC... So whatever the way the wind is blowing through his mind is the way the clothes will look... Bailey simply may want to Change Course and Follow a more Well Trodden Path, Next Time up. For this Path traversed in this collection led to nothing but Disappointment.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, January 26, 2015

Erdem.

Mon. 09/15/2014.





It looked as if though for Spring 2015 Erdem Moralioglu had decided to write his own "Jungle Book" and succumb to the Deep, Dark Mysteries of the Jungle Primeval. Was this The Amazon Rainforest? The Heart of the Darkest Africa? All of that and more it would end up being, as Moralioglu had latched onto the Victorian Botanical artist Marianne North who was so renowned by her Peers and those who respected her work that there is a Gallery devoted to her in the Legendary Kew Gardens in Great Britain.

But, How, you may ask, does all this fall in place to make a collection...? Quite Nicely, actually. Moralioglu's Artistic, Couture-like hand was at it's most adept this season with nearly everything being Decorated in some brilliantly lavish and masterful way! The opening pair of dresses were intricately Embroidered in Gorgeous, Darkly rich Feathered Silk applique flowers. From there, Wispy fronds compiled themselves on dresses in almost suffocating multitude. In Moralioglu's hands, this never devolved into Overabundance, It was just the Right amount of Overdone as to be Decadent but not Indulgent! 

Even Later, when it felt like a Sleeveless top paired with a Lichen Green Textured skirt was threatening to Engulf the Models torso in what looked like Every form of Jungle Flora known to Mankind and some not known, He still managed to balance it just so that it never veered in to the Costume, as did the Matching Pencil skirt that followed paired with a simple Aqua Sweater! Then, Out came the Feathers! From Flora now to Fauna... looking as though Moralioglu had Plucked every Exotic Bird in the Jungle for his wears, They were Giddy at times with Over-Exaggerated Exuberance or in the Trio of dresses that looked like they were prints but were Minutely and Expertly placed Feathers. 

There were other Outposts from those aforementioned that criss-crossed to and fro from beginning to end, But all were handled with a Controlled, yet Perversely and Eccentricallly Inclined hand. Moralioglu know's how to Conjure up a Fantasy for the Ages in his clothes... This was one of his most Potent Affairs. His ladies this season were Eloquent, Exotic, Elaborate Jungle Princesses ready to Emerge from the Bush and Take on the Hinterlands... Watch Out, World! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Antonio Berardi.

Mon. 09/15/2014.






Antonio Berardi has never, It seemed. met an idea he could elaborately embellish upon. In the best of times, it gives his work a Decadent and Sensual sense of Largesse and Excess, most times, as in his Spring 2015 collection, It simply Drowned out what might have been something Quite Beautiful. Let'a just get this out of the way now as it is something that bears mentioning and has seemed to affect the Design world at large for Spring '15. When Berardi let the clothes do the talking and RESTRAINED Himself, He worked some magical pieces, But his Over Ambitious nature caused him to schlock on more and more until things looked Comic, And not in the good way!

Drawing as his touchstone the 2011 Movie "Flowers Of War" in Which Christian Bale plays a Pretend Priest and helps save a Gaggle Chinese Schoolgirls by hiding them in a Church... Berardi took some idealistic cues from the Setting and the Characters. To say it as an Unsuccessful pairing, Chinese Schoolgirls, Catholic Vestments and Church Ecclesiastia would be putting it mildly. Bishop Sleeves and "Kimono" Florals were just but a few of the follies found.

One other thing that served to make the collection suffer, Berardi's rather Quizzical Colour Choices... opening with Muted shades of Olive and Pink suffused with Sapphire was altogether Bizarre Entanglement. Then came a very Imperial shade of Orange paired with Chinese Lacquer Red and yet more of that Dull Pink... Pair this with the Infuriatingly Tricky shapes of the Jackets and the skirts that looked like Deflated Hot Air Balloons and it FAR TOO Quickly became Unbearable. By the way the Colour Choices continued... CEASELESSLY to become ever more Outlandish... simply take a look to see what I mean! 

Not all was a Waste, A truly Ingenious Pantsuit in Pink, Plum and Orange Chine Silk was Cut to Utter, Dreamy Perfection... And that was about it! The Rest... A Unhinged, Disturbing Nightmare. Berardi has all the Skill in the world, but put to the uses he is continuing to exhibit with the last couple of Failures of Collections as this and Last Fall... One would never, Not in a Billion Years, be aware of such Fecund Talent. Berardi needs to set his Course to his True North and find what it is that he has lost, Before he is left Hopelessly Adrift. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!




Pringle Of Scotland.

Sun. 09/14/2014.





Pringle Of Scotland.

Pringle of Scotland has had many names parading through it's house, trying to give it an Identity that is Concurrent with what's Now in Fashion while still Honouring it's 200 Year Knitwear Heritage. In treading that line, sometimes it's just best to start from the farthest outward post and view the house from a Great Distance, Essentially Meaning... Be aware of the Histoire De La Maison, But don't adhere to the past with rabid Obeisance.

That's the path it seems Massimo Nicosia followed for his incredibly strong Spring 2015 show for the House of Pringle. Looking staunchly towards the future but also not simply paying Lip Service to the past of the storied house. Nicosia innovatively avoided any such issues by giving the clothes a Clear and uncomplicated wearability, but also a Piquant slick of the Futuristic.

Keeping his palette restrained was also Key to Nicosia's Success... White, Bone, Cyan and a Violet/Blue hybrid focused everything sharply. While touches like Innovative Treatment of knitwear and usage of 3-D embroideries on some pieces or clear Plastic, Glistening Triangles decorated a couple pieces in Cyan, Especially nice in Knit long sleeve top that somehow managed to be Sheer and Opaque at the same time, paired with a Flattering Tube skirt. Nicosia is looking it would seem to innovate the house of Pringle while keeping it Familiar to those who need it but still slipping a little Modernity in on their Classic. It appears that it's a Winning Formula, Thus Far.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Saturday, January 24, 2015

Jonathan Saunders.

09/14/2014.






Balancing a Certain Whimsical, Child-Like Naivete with more Structured, Couture like ideas, Jonathan Saunder cast a Curious Spell with his Spring 2015 collection, one that wasn't exactly Convincing or Thoughtfully Conceived. There was something Deeply Askew in this Assemblage... Something Definitively... OFF! Not that it was Implacable to describe this Off-Kilter feel, But it was Nebulous to a degree...

It just seemed highly Disjointed, as if all the Puzzle pieces did not belong to the same Puzzle. One moment, Innocent, the next moment, Stern. One minute, Delightfully Frivolous... the Next, Ornately Experimental. As if... Saunders could not settle or commit on one plan of attack and threw all the pieces in the air, and let them fall where they may, Willy Nilly. There was Tailoring, then there was Ballooning Pouf Shapes. Saunders did himself no Justice following this kind of Illogic. 

What worked, When it did work, was Mysteriously Beautiful. A Caramel Brown Bow-Tied waist Shirt dress with Leaves of the dress fabric shimmying at the hem,  A Sky Blue pantsuit with the same Bow Waist and Naif Embroideries and Grommets. Or even that Spectacular Opening Number in Navy with the Double Breasted Coat... Exquisite. From there on... An excess of Trickiness pervaded the whole affair and, with far too few respites from it, Such as the Hideous Layering ideas or those Bunchy and Unflattering fabric Flowers, The collection began sinking like an Ocean liner gored on it's Hull by an Iceberg. By the time it was all over, oneself was feeling as if they, and Saunders too, Needed someone throwing them a Lifeline!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

David Koma.

Sun. 09/14/2014.






Asymmetry can be a Difficult road to travel, Oft times in Fashion, It can give an Imbalanced proportion to clothes that would have fared better with a Symmetrical hemline. Or it can add Fluidity and create Drape and Interest on the Body... David Koma's Spring 2015 collection fell into the Latter side of the Equation. Key here, His distillation of things down to Solid Pops of Strong Colour and keeping things "Relatively" Simple. Saying though that his collection was "SIMPLE" was something in an Exercise in Deception. 

Koma has a lot on his plate this year, A Debut at Mugler which is highly anticipated and his own line which he has decided to continue forth with. Good for him... Mugler will have a Treasure trove of Archives for him to explore and Manipulate to his own whims, But his own label is where his voice will always be most resonant. This collection proved that Idea Solidly and Expertly. 

With Scores of White and Black with inflections of Lemon Yellow, A Powdery Porcelain Blue, Cerulean, and a Soft Lemonade Yellow, Koma kept the Eye trained on the Silhouettes Rather than Arabesques and Pirouettes of Colour to distract. The Purity of the Yellows and Blues was more Refreshing and Eye-Soothing than any other Jarring colours may have lent to the production.  In such Naked colours too, Koma need have Excellent tailoring skills, for the colours do err on the Unforgiving side if one does not have the Technique to back up such Austere hues. One thing for sure... His Tailoring skills need not be Questioned! 

Some of the Best of Show... A Pair of Cerulean Blue Wiggle Dresses with strategic Grid-like cutouts that had Sex Bomb appeal while still retaining a sense of Modesty. A GENIUS Bi-Colour Blue and Black dress that looked like it was two pieces, A Turtleneck Sleeveless top and Pencil Skirt wit Degrade Crystal embroidery was actually a Single Piece! Or the Deftly Asymmetric White top with Skinny White pants that was Tapping a Vein of Modern Chic for all it was worth!

There was Much more... but one can view all that. Koma is Creeping his way into the Fashion Consciousness, He has the Skill, the Talent, and the Ability to make his name known Far and Wide. Just keep putting out efforts like this and he will be finding his name on all the most important people's Lips in the Game! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Friday, January 23, 2015

Mary Katrantzou.

Sun. 09/14/2014.





Mary Katrantzou.

Pangaea. Dance. The Body as Tectonic Plates. These were the provocative influences of Mary Katrantzou's Spring 2015 collection. Provocative for the reasons that they were Eclectic in the utmost and that with those Ideas, Pregnant with Possibilities... She produced something as Dully Uninspiring and Meek as this collection,

Katrantzou's show wasn't particularly Pretty, or especially Interesting. Much of it was Frankly, Ugly. Or at the least, Unattractive. It was also repetitive, Lace and Slip Dresses and Badly cut pants paired with A-Line tops or The Tectonic plates of Cutout Applications of pieces of fabric on Sheer Stretch Tulle... It was Flatly Unappealing and with such Esoteric Inspirations, it felt Decidedly Lackluster.

Katrantzou is Moving into new Spheres of Fashion, for better or worse, and so far, it's been for the worse. The Collage effect of her clothes can become overworked and Heavy-Handed, It's keeping her clothes from breathing and weighed down by all the Gravitas of Intellect. The Engineered Prints have gone by the wayside, Good or Bad as that may be, and replaced by these Experiments in Excess. It's not working, either way. Perhaps a Refresh is needed.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Paul Smith

Sun. 09/14/2014.





Paul Smith.

Within the London Spring season there seems to be a lot of Allusions to Boyishness and Masculine Identity going round. Paul Smith's Spring 2015 opus is surely Inflected by this Boy/Girl Schism. Nothing new, Per Se, for Smith, But this season, the influence was somewhat coming on Strong. Smith also explored new territory, with a focus on more Neutral Colour than usual for him, especially for a Spring Collection.

Fringe was big on the scene and although it wasn't adding much, (it has appeared as something of a Touchstone this Spring) it did look Whimsical when needed. The Sport-ish elements in the collection, gave it more than it's fair share of Boyish Charm, Using this formula, the Collection did not have a Definitive Femme Streak running through it at all, even the more Frivolous of outfits were imbued with an almost Athletic and Garcon edge.

Where Smith most Closely approached something, Girly, it was in the truly most Stripped Bare, Spare Outfits... A Tan and White Striped Sleeveless V-neck top and Ticking Stripe Tailored slacks in Black and White was Sublimely easy, even though it had a Masculine Bent, It was still Femme in it's approach. Or a White Men's Shirt that was thrown Askew by having a Panel front in Solid while the rest of the shirt was Sheer combined with Grey and White Pajama style Pants. A Pretty paneled Floral print dress was about the most Femininely Extroverted piece in the entire collection.

Smith, As is his usual, Showed a Strong Point of View here, One that was Pointedly and Playfully Boyish. It provided a Very new look for him, where there has always been a Mannish style to his collections, it as usually subverted through a more feminine lens, Here, Not the case. It Gave a Great Punch to his usual suspects and made for Great Fashion. Smith has been in the business too long to rest on his Laurels and with this collection, shows that even Decades into a Long and Storied career, He can still Surprise!





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Topshop Unique.

Sun. 09/14/2014.






The people at Topshop aren't looking to set the Fashion World Afire. Not In the Least! What They are striving for is to Create Fresh, Effervescent, Energetic, Youthful, Peppy fashion for the Young Things out there that like their basics to be The Best they can be. On that front, They Succeed WILDLY! Need they do more? When they have the Formula as down pat as it seems that they have it for now... No! Not for now...

For Spring 2015, The clothes were Crisp, Chic, Sunny, Happy, and Young. But one could see Higher Fashion Aspirations creeping in subtly here and there abouts... more on that later. Citing the "Faded Glamour of the British Seaside" Which by any account can be More Dreary than a Hawthorne Novel, There was nothing Faded about the Glamour on tap here. It was Bright and Forward and In Your Face alive with Colour and Pop! 

Red, Black, White, Aqua, China Blue, Maroon, Oxblood and Silver where all in evidence here, as well as Honey Brown, which in a Laser Precise, Bonded Mac was one of the most Immediate winners on Display. A Lipstick Red Shift/Slip dress with Ruffle Detail was also hitting the mark. This collection relied heavily on being Graphic, Big blocks of Solid Colour, Stripes, Even the Floral print was Graphic and Abstracted. 

The Finale of Beaded, sheer Little Nothing, Slip Dresses Showed a Burgeoning Sophistication to the label and were KNOCKOUTS Every One of them. It found the Topshop label reaching beyond it's normal Purview and Trying to Stretch it's Imagination... It brought to mind the old Quotation, "One's Reach Should Exceed One's Grasp, Or what's a Heaven For!" If Topshop Keeps reaching... Who knows what Heaven that they may get their hands on! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Joseph.

Sat. 09/13/2014.






Louise Trotter Whipped up a Magical, Spontaneous, Energetic Production for the Joseph Label for Spring 2015. It was Infused with Boyish Magnetism and Sportif Charm and Was Deftly Modern and Forward thinking. Trotter embodied an Intellectual and Spirited Woman on her Runway, one that wasn't concerned with Traditional Feminine tropes. She was a Sleek, Athletic Warrioress with a Penchant for Complex Fashion that juxtaposed itself with Clean, Simple Sportiness. 

Firstly, Trotter kept things focused by minimizing the Colour Palette to Khaki Green, White, Black and Powder and Charcoal Grey with Denim Splashes in the Middle. Trotter also mentioned that "Contrasts" were a big motivation, Slim and Sleek, Counterpointed by Voluminous and Overscale. Avant-Garde Touches added a Spirit of Japanese Modernity to the clothes, Especially in the Denim section that looked like Jean Jackets had been wrapped around the hips or waist with the sleeves swinging free... It was an Odd, and Slightly Askew touch that could have gone wrong SO VERY Easily, but instead came across as Quirky, Experimental and in it's own sense, Fun! 

Freshest and most Approachable of the items proffered... A White Slouch dress based on a Trench at Exit No. 3, It had Sparkling Freshness and Elegant Easiness all in one. Or the Boyish Gray Leather Ensemble with a Hidden placket jacket and Basketball shorts... Another Winner, the Army Green Leather Tank Dress on Sam Rollinson that was just TOTALLY Essential and Covetable. while a Cape Back Fleece Top with Lantern Sleeves and a matching Skirt was Couture Chic and Still Grasping that Thread of Sportiness. 

All in all... Trotter did a Magnificent job of creating Modern, Eclectic clothes for the woman that wants to Not Exactly Stand Out, but wants to differentiate herself. With clothes like this, Trotter is setting herself up Nicely to take Joseph beyond the Just a Specialty Department Store and Turn it into it's Own Power Brand. I can't wait to see the Evolution!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Matthew Williamson.

Sun. 09/14/2014.






Sometimes, it takes a bit of both Trying new things AND Reflection to put one back on track after one has been doing something for a long while. Whilst in his Hothouse Youth, Matthew Williamson was the Purveyor of all things Young and Pretty and Glitzy, he in the past few years has tried to Mature and move away from the Girls who love the Night Life. It made for some Lovely collections, No? But they were in a Melancholy way, A little Soulless. Where in the case of Someone like Julien MacDonald, you'd WISH he'd grow up and experiment beyond his Flash, Trash and Excess Habitue, Only if to show HIMSELF that he can do more... Williamson has done that and in doing so, again found his True North, Just now Patinated with Maturity. 

Williamson conjured forth on this day. one of his most Spectacular collections, Thrilling with Beauty and Eccentric fun. The 70's have always held a Soft spot in the Heart of Williamson, and This collection was no less inflected by the Decade that Gave us "Charlie's Angels" Roller-Disco, Hot Pants and Feathered Hair. Opening with that most Ubiquitous of 70's Materials, Suede, Williamson set off on a Path well travelled, but still ripe with possibilities. 

With Tropical Florals and Ikats And Feather Prints as his only embellishments this season, Williamson, also used quite the Varied colour Palette to evocative effect... Cerise Red, Jungle Green, Melon Pink, Deep Turquoise, Mallard Green, Deep Plum... all swirled about in Perfect coordination. Some of the best looks, A Mallard Green Wrap top in Satin paired with a Lace and Feather Wrap Sarong looked Devilishly Sexy and Prim in an Odd way! Or a Totally "Angels" Moment in a Feather Print blouse paired with the most Searing shade of Cerise Pants with Impeccable cut. A Delicate Ice Blue Tweed Wrap Blazer and Crepe Pants set was also Giving off Good Vibrations! 

The Best piece was Exit No. 2, A Butter Yellow to Iris Purple Ombre Tropic Floral print dress that had Studio 54 in it's very DNA was KILLER Sexy and Chic! Williamson Strutted his stuff in this collection with Confidence, Skill and Great Panache. It was Signature Williamson, But Tempered with the new Maturity that has affected his work via Reflection and Age. It's a Bracing Tonic of a Cocktail and one that seems to be Rich with Possibility! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, January 19, 2015

Preen By Thornton Bregazzi.

Sun. 09/14/2014.






Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi never met an Overdone Idea that they didn't Like. Their Preen collections are Paeans to Excessive overindulgence in Ideas and usually it works solely to their Detriment. Had they not gripped the reins as (Relatively) tightly as they did for Spring 2015, It too would have fallen into that Punji Stick laden trap! 

Citing a Litany of Inspirations... Cricket, Masai (HUH?) 80's Hip-Hop and, Oh Yeah... SEX... The Duo came up with something a Dash more focused than their usual Menu. The opening Wrap Dress was Especially Sexy and Blended Cricket and Masai Fluidly... The BRIGHT Colours and Beading were also High points when not used too extravagantly. The Cricket Stripes as well, were a nice diversion from the more Ethnic Ideas floating about and Grounded them. 

However, there were times where Thornton and Bregazzi's Largesse was just too much, The asymmetry got to be Trying after a while as did a Brief interlude of Sari-Style Drapee and Herve Leger-Like Wrapped Bandage dressing which was a Mistake from the Outset. Those Watercolour Floral prints felt contrived and oddly out of sorts in this collection too. Simple was their Friend. And a Friend the Duo needs to call on more. For when Simple was the watchword, Great things happened.

Like, a Orange Zip-Front Sweater/Coat that had Luscious Appeal or a Smashing White Pantsuit, or all those Shimmy-Shimmy Beaded pieces that ended the show with such a Positive Vibe. For Thornton and Bregazzi, This as a High-Water Mark, the collection wasn't free from fault, but it was weighing in more on the side of Good than Bad with much of that "Good" Being Quite Wonderful. Now if Justin and Thea could just learn to Simplify and Focus That Smidge More, We might see real Magic Transpire! 





That's All.






Bye4Now!

Marchesa.

Sat. 09/13/2014.





Marchesa.

Although Prettier and more Outwardly Fantastical than recent collections, Spring 2015 at the House of Marchesa was again a Muddled and Terribly Wobbly, Uneven effort for Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. When it was Good... It was ASTOUNDING... when it was Blah... It was Drastically Uninteresting or even worse... Overworked!

Starting Strongly. The collection had a "Flower Power" Vibe from the Get go and took that Glastonbury/Lollapalooza/Coachella inspiration that has been running pretty rampant around the Spring 2015 Fashion circles and made hay with it... It's getting a little on the tiresome side, but one would have thought if anyone could have saved this Inspire from the Doldrums, it would have been the Marchesa duo.... And you'd have thought wrong.

From Guinevere inspired romances of evening gowns to some Clunky and imbalanced ones, The thread that was supposed to run through the collection to support any and all Reveries was, Unfortunately, Raveled. Speaking of Raveling... all that fringe being Shimmied on down the runway, looked Cheap. Far more Successful... A Sumptuously Beautiful Bird print that highlighted everything it showed up on in the most Marvellous ways! It's most Perfect Incarnation was in a Black Lace framed T-Shirt dress that was Striking and Comfortable all at once.

For every One Glory in the collection, there seemed to be Three Junk Heaps. This Failure to focus on anything other than the Extraneous plagues Craig and Chapman like a Bad Penny. Honing their eccentricities and Keeping only the most Outstanding pieces a Priority would do them A WORLD of Well! Marchesa Need not be all things to all peoples... It just needs to be true to Itself and it'll get on Just Dandy!





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Wednesday, January 14, 2015

House Of Holland.

Sat. 09/13/2014.





House Of Holland.

Henry Holland's Spring 2015 offering limped along aimlessly with the rather awkward and Inelegant Point of Departure of... Ahem... GROUPIES! Ok! Yes, let's Run with that Fertile Well of Inspiration, Shall we? Let's Not and say We Did! As Inspirations go... It was a Cheap subject and it was Cheaply executed in a Psychedelic, Anna Sui-esque Purple Haze of 70's Meaninglessness. The Trippy, Hallucinogenic Prints did nothing to distract from the uninspiring and simplistic shapes, and with all the Visual Stimuli going about, anything that might have smacked of Inventive or Interesting would have been Irretrievably lost anyway!

Anyone who Knows Henry Holland knows he dresses the Party Girl... Unremittingly, Unapologetically. That casts him in a Curious light, One that he, in recent collections has tried to shed and move away from, but that he unfortunately keeps finding himself returning to. With little success. The more he indulges in this propensity for Garish, and frankly, Tacky clothing that borders on Meretricious... he negates all the strides he had made forward in previous work.

Of the pieces that were not so Tragic, there were some very pretty Paisley accented Neon Lace pieces and some Wildly Colourful Floral Adorned pieces late in the show that were more palatable but not necessarily... Chic. Aside from those... There wasn't much to get excited about. Holland has the talent to go very far, although he does have a serious following already. But, one would like to see him grow beyond his Nightlife Comfort zone and produce some serious Fashion. That can't happen soon enough!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Hunter Original.

Sat. 09/13/2014.






It is always an Exciting and Interesting thing to see a Fashion House Begin to Emerge into it's Truest, Surest self. Sometimes that is directly concurrent with the label blossoming forth from it's Chrysalis as a newcomer and hitting the proverbial ground running. Hunter Original under the design directorship of Alasdhair Willis (Husband of Stella McCartney) is just such a house on just such a cusp! 

In just Two Season, Willis is setting a pace for definitive success at the house! Keeping the Heritage of this house is a difficult thing to accomplish, however, owing to the fact that the house is famous for Wellington Rain Boots... How do you build an Identity based on Something so... Utilitarian? This seemingly Unenviable task has been thrown down at Willis' feet like a Gauntlet and he has picked it up and ran with it... With Obvious Aplomb!

Willis' second outing was as Well-Conceived as his Debut, concerning himself with a British Military print called "Dazzle" a Technique of Painting on British warships in WWI, it made a rather Dizzying and Eclectic end to collection which up til then had been occupied with Primarily Khaki and Olive Greens, Bumblebee Yellow, Lilac, Khaki and Enlivening strokes of Prismatic Aqua and Prussian Blue. These colours all Jumbled up in the end to create the "Dazzle" Effect with even more interesting shades thrown into the mix!

The Key of Willis' success here is that he is not Specifically Swinging for the fences, But also isn't just content with getting On Base! He's trying to Score some RBI's and doing that by presenting clothes that are Fun, Sharp, and Forward while still being Classic and Fashionable. Willis is giving his Variations on those essentially British Codes, The Trench, The Mac, The Popover and making them Prescient for 2015 and Beyond...

Willis' Trajectory for the label seems bound for Success. Producing inspired collections that are just a Teensy bit Off, But in a Delightfully good way, is going to make him a Darling of the British Fashion cognoscenti... and as he eases in more comfortably into his role as Creative Head of Hunter, he will surely spread his wings out more and give the world more Adventurous fashion, The Kernel of that idea is already Germinating. One just cannot wait to see what Flowers from that Seed!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Julien McDonald.

Sat. 09/13/2014.





Julien MacDonald.

Julien MacDonald is not Your Go-To designer for Classic Day wear or Coats and Suits... he is the man you go to when you want a Candy-Coated Confection of Beads and Lace and Sheerness and Froth! All this was to be found in MacDonald's Spring 2015 collection, as well as his signature Couture quality Knits. This season, However, A wind of what one might actually call, Sophistication, Blew through the house that Scantily Clad built!

As Body hugging and unforgiving as many of the outfits were, per the house signature codes, Many were less Encasing and Limned more than Enveloped. Also, in the name of elegance, not everything was Silvery or Metallic and festooned with Beads and Glitter and Fringe, MacDonald started off with some Fabulously lush Bird of Paradise Tropic Prints that were actually intricate embroideries and added a dimension of Exuberance to Sober dresses. From here, there were Spidery, Webby knits, and McDonald's Signature Metallics came out to play.

Even though much was Business as usual, there was a refreshing sense of Restraint at hand here, One that lent a subtle degree of refinement to MacDonald's Oeuvre, which joyously counterpointed all the Glitz and Flash of his usual ilk. Although, those ideas when executed as they were here, with High sex Tempered with Elegance, those usual Scandal inducing gowns that ended the show were more Erotic than Trashy! Perhaps this is a new direction in MacDonald's career path, One that is less obeisant to Fireworks and Elaboration and more on Technique and Skill. It's Promising to say the least!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, January 5, 2015

Daks.

Fri. 09/12/2014.






As a Heritage Brand on the London Fashion Scene, Like Burberry, Belstaff, Hunter... Daks is a Label of the Old Guard, and How it fits into the New World of Fashion is a delicate undertaking, One that can be Fraught with Pitfalls and Foibles. Does one remain strictly adherent to the House Heritage or do they adapt that history to what is Modern or even more so, what Modern means to that house. Fillipo Scuffi in his early days at Daks, followed a path that was an admixture of following the heritage and adapting the house codes to the time but under the umbrella of being Modern on the house's terms. 

Not Anymore. Scuffi has taken the house in His own direction, and showing what Modern means to him and dragging the house along Kicking and Screaming into the Future. It's a Ballsy and Bold Move, Thankfully, It Worked! It could have been Disastrous. And with any Radical move, as this was, there were stumbles, Yet on the Whole, It was Startlingly Successful! Scuffi was inspired by Ballet, Specifically "Swan Lake" and that would account for the Delightfully Sagacious use of Feathers in the collection. 

There was a Deft, Ethereal feeling to the collection that channeled at times Gianfranco Ferre, at times, McQueen, Though it only referenced them in passing, As a matter of Fact, It seemed Scuffi was envisaging an Image all his own, which was the best possible outcome of all this newness. An image that was Sensuous, but Ethereally so, Delicate and Light with an undercurrent of Strength. This dichotomy of Fragility and Sharpness was a potent mix, especially when realized in outfits like the Mauve Organza Hooded blouse and Mauve Trousers, or in a Liquid Sterling Gray Chiffon Caftan gown that rippled like waves on the shore, 

Also conveying this aesthetic, A Bibbed White Tuxedo shirt paired with Pegged Trousers fully covered in Feathers or the Version done in a Pencil Skirt covered in the Same Feathers and again matched with a Bib front Tuxedo Shirt. Also of Note, A Frothy confection of Pleated Mauve Chiffon worn with Mauve Shantung Pegged Bermudas on Maria Borges that was a Sensation if there ever was one! 

Scuffi has positioned himself with this collection as a Designer willing to throw Caution to the Four Winds and to be one to watch in the future. With this kind of Zeal and Willingness to risk and Risk... BIG, he will have the International Press watching him for more of the same as he presented in this collection. Scuffi only has to have the Courage to continue in this Brazen way and Success Is sure to Follow! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

London!

Mon. 01/05/2015.





Dear Readers,

It's Now a New Year and in a few weeks, Fall 2015 will be upon us. The last part of 2014 was a very difficult period and I lost some steam. I am working quickly and trying to get all this done before February. I will not reiterate the sentiments I have before and simply will just work my ass off to get it all done.

Thank You for staying with me as always, and expect 2015 to be a New Year and New Me! I am dedicating myself to this with all my heart, because this is my heart, and I am serious about this. Stay the course with me and keep reading.

Thank You and Love To All.

Sincerely Yours,


Terrill Lawrence Sanford.


Now On To LONDON!

Marc Jacobs.

Thurs. 09/11/2014.






It was Flat out Impossible to define whether Marc Jacobs was being Serious or Whimsical in his Spring 2015 treatise. There was a Queer Gaiety to the clothes that was oddly offset by the Militaristic accents. Conversely, The Military ideas were given Contrapuntal embellishment of Geegaw sized Cabochons and Beading which further confused Matters. The absurd part, that in Jacobs formidable hands, it all gelled into a cohesive idea that was frankly, Stunning! 

With all the Military influences running through this collection and many others this season, it would be easy to err on the side of the Familiar and Redundant... NEVER Let it be said that Marc Jacobs is Familiar OR Redundant. His was a New, Fresh take on Military, given that it was taken into realms that were heretofore undreamed before. As with all Jacobs-ian Epics, There was SO MUCH to Digest in this Presentation that one was literally overwhelmed by ideas and choices. Sometimes one became so swamped that things got murky, Blissfully, Jacobs honed in on what he was trying to achieve with such Sniper Sure accuracy that he saved the show from being Abstruse! 

There was something disconcertingly Sad and Wistful about the presentation, With the Monolithic gigantic Pink House set Smack-Dab in the middle of the runway, and the models Circling round it, Like Ghosts of some war past come home to roost, with their Copycat Bowl cut shags and the peculiarly evocative music that seemed from some Alien Carnival... It was a Physical Gut Punch that made the clothes so much more than their Plain Visages would suggest! 

Jacobs started with outfits that were the vision of Austere. Detail-less outfits inspired by Trenches began with just hidden pockets that were obscured by the pleats in the full skirts of the bubble shaped dresses, then transmuted into More militaristic details and oversized buttons, however still hovering firmly in the pastures of the Unembellished. Then the Buttons multiplied, showing up in droves, along with circular Air holes and and Gusset pockets, Epaulets, and Web Belts. 

Next came rounded Cabochon Beads that began to Proliferate on the outfits and Patchwork insinuated itself into the mix as well as Passementerie, Coalescing into an Eclectic Whole that was Strange and Wonderful. Jacobs broached such new territory with this collection that one could not be forcibly changed by experiencing it. This was, more so than any of Jacobs collections, one that will stick in the memory and the heart. It was an emotionally Extravagant Masterpiece that was Stocked with Memorable and Timeless Clothes. Jacobs Proved he is at the top of his game with this Spellbinding and Moving Collection. It is one that will stay with you long after the weather has changed and one is looking forward to Sweaters and Coats! This is a Collection that will change Hearts, as well as Closets! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Sunday, January 4, 2015

Calvin Klein.

Thurs. 09/11/2014.






An Odd Sensuality suffused the Spring 2015 Calvin Klein Collection by Francisco Costa. One that was subliminal, Yet palpable. It was to be deciphered in the Sleekness and Litheness of the layering of Long on Long and the Delineation of lines by the High waisted slim belts. These forces constituted a Panther-like Lissome Quality that was also resolutely Modern.

All was not as Graceful throughout, but the Unerring line of Slenderness was absolute and pure! Costa kept the Colours Minimal to match the shapes, Marine Blue, Black, White and an Injection of Oxblood red that was Unexpected and wholly welcome. What was even more welcome, was when Costa flipped the coin and showed some Saucy, Gamine short dresses with flippy hems... In Leather no less. It was just the Juxtaposition that was needed to cure the onslaught malaise that began to settle in with one too many Layerings of long atop more long.

As the show progressed, Costa was still layering, but he interrupted longish ideas with more shorter fare atop the longer hemlines... these had their successful moments, but were not as fully effective on the whole. When all was said and done, Costa had put forth a showing far less fraught with peril than his recent output over the last few years. One would like to think this is a Turning point, But Knowing Costa, One needn't Hold their Breath!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

J. Mendel.

Thurs. 09/11/2014.






The Spring J. Mendel collection was a Curious affair. Inspired by Artist Enoc Perez's Architectural paintings, Gilles Mendel presented a rather uneven and surprisingly, Difficult collection for Spring 2015. In places, it was Wondrously Beautfiful, and at places, Distractingly Odd. The Tricky silhouettes and Disorienting prints conspired to create an uneasy mix that wasn't easy to digest. Mendel's Signature Furs and Leathers were all present and accounted for, but were more deftly mixed into the proceedings than usual, however that wasn't were the problems lay.

Over Ambitious Cuts and Cutouts, Patchworkings and Colour-Blocking took away from the lines of the clothes where simpler applications would have exalted them. This didn't fully detract from the pieces that were outstanding, A White and Black/Citrus Yellow Print Pleated dress on Herieth Paul was Extraordinarily Sexy and Chic! A Fluffy Blue, Pink and Black Fur was Inspiring Frissons of Orgasmic Joy while a Claude Montana Worthy Lipstick Red Leather skirt Suit was the Picture of Red Hot! 

Yet couple this with the Pleated dresses with high slits which were overkill on the Sensual side of the equation, and those experiments with colour blocking were Misguided to say the least. In the end, However, Mendel gave us a Refreshing and Eccentric collection that was Forward and Fashionable. It wasn't the Greatest of Mendel's Efforts, But it was full of enough Sharp, Sexy, Tantalizing outfits that the effort wasn't wasted! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Ralph Lauren.

Thurs. 09/11/2014.






Ralph Lauren KNOWS Safari. It's one of his Fall back options that when he may be confused as to which way the Fashion Winds are blowing, he can whip up another Excursion into the Savannah and come up with Something akin to Fashion Gold. He may have learned that from Good Ole Yves, who was never far from a Saharienne moment himself. In less Expert Hands, this is a trope that would be loaded with Pitfalls and Booby Traps. It is one Hoary old Chestnut if there ever was one.

Lauren could have recycled any number of ideas from Safaris past, But, Lauren hasn't survived in fashion for almost 50 years by stagnating himself in the past. Yes, he can revisit certain ideas sometimes with too oft frequency, but Le Safari has always held a Special Place for Lauren. And Spring 2015 did not disappoint on ANY Front, in fact, it was one of Ralph's Very Best! 

From the Get-Go though, we envisaged that Lauren was not playing by the old rules... The Striking Amethyst draped Silk Charmeuse top that alighted upon the Sleek Khaki Cargos showed that Lauren was thinking Differently about Safari. Lauren's Biggest and Smartest decision was to use Vigourous and Piercingly Vibrant Colour juxtaposed against the basic Safari Colours, Khaki, Olive Drab, Tan, Desert Sand, Colours like Tangerine Orange, Fuschia Pink, Citron and Dandelion Yellow, were the picture of Exuberance, even if Startlingly so! Counterpoint this with Sleek, Sylphlike Black and White and the collection hit all the right notes at all the right moments.

Even with all the Delicious and Beguiling, Radiant Colour, It was the Desert Shades that proved the most Enthralling in the outfits... Par Example, A Sand coloured Charmeuse Jumpsuit exalted the idea of Luxury Safari in the most wearable and urban of ways. Try also, The Sleeveless Top with a Softly flared Suede Peplum and matching Suede Pencil skirt in Khaki on Maria Borges that was one of the most Chic things to be seen the whole season! And The ultimate In Safari Sophistication, A Belted Saharienne Jacket and matching skirt in Desert Khaki that stole the show!

On The Colour side of the coin... Leila Nda in an Orange Wonder of a Zip-front Shirt dress that was contending for best in show also, A Duo of draped Tulle ballgowns that floated Effortlessly down the Catwalk in Mandarin and Lemon were winning raves as well. These plus other Genius examples of Colour stood out for all the most right reasons.

Never let it be said that Ralph Lauren doesn't know how to close a Show... while he could have ended with the Freshest evening gown seen around, a White Jersey gown with Epaulets and Gusset Patch pockets, He took the Saharienne Motif to it's most Glamourous Conclusion, An Immense Mushroom Silk belted Shirt Dress Ballgown that rustled and bustled down the runway with Gasp-Inducing Exquisiteness.

Lauren is always at the top of his game when operating within his Wheelhouse of Comfort... He however isn't one to rely on rehashing those old ideas Ad Nauseum and is always looking for the Newest and most Modern interpretations of those ideas, while still keeping the Lauren DNA Brand Specific and Spot-On to the History of the House. Is Lauren ever going to Reinvent the Wheel? Hell No!  But what's so damn wrong with the Wheel, Anyway?





That's All.





Bye4Now!