Saturday, November 29, 2014

Versus Versace.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






It was the Rebirth of Sexy! Anthony Vaccarello, something of the Crown Prince of Sexy in his own right, landed Squarely on the Shores of Sexified Haute-ness that is known as the Storied House of Versace. Known as the Arbiter of all things Scandalicious and Sexilicious from past Brother Gianni to current Sister Donatella, The Versace name is synonymous with the Language of Sex! Add Anthony Vaccarello to that mix and get ready for the Sex Bomb to Explode!

And Explode it did! All over the Place! With tons of Tits, Ass and Legs. Vaccarello seems uniquely suited to breathing new life into the Versace brand, seeing as his vision Racy Fashion runs Brilliantly parallel to that of the Brand DNA. This was embodied by this collection that Smouldered with the Modern version of what Old Gianni used to serve up so effortlessly and flawlessly. This, As Debuts go, was Perfect from Beginning to End. Vaccarello came to the game Loaded for Bear it would seem, starting out by minimalizing the effort and casting it in exclusively Black, White and Gold, He started with supreme cheek and storied confidence by tweaking and twisting the Versace Icons into new permutations that honored the tradition of the house, but moved them into different Spheres as to not feel as if he was simply regurgitating them.

So, the icons showed up right from the start, Starting with Sleek, Lithe, Black outfits that were touched with the Instantly recognizable Medusa Buttons. The Outfits were Chic and Sensual with out being too sexual... although Malaika Firth's Outfit was showing Plenty of Tits and Leg with it's Sky High mini skirt. This fluidly moved into clothes that were exponentially more Body Revealing! Like the Black Blouson paired with a matching Double side slit Skirt with Gold Buttons that was More Louche than overt but was still Sexy As Fuck! A Gown that came a few steps later with a Plunging Neckline and had the same skirt to it was Quaking with Sexiness! 

Next up was a Play off of the Famous Versace Icon that Elizbeth Hurley infamously and Scandalously Shotgunned into the collective consciousness of the world when she wore Gianni's "Punk" Safety Pin gown from the Spring 1993 collection that had been worn in the Defile by the Lusciously Curvaceous Helena Christensen, here Vaccarello intimated the Pins without actually using them. From there Vaccarello did his own spin on Gianni's famous Rococo prints, but subdued by it being in Black and White, this however did not tame it's Appeal or Beauty, there was also the Greek Key Motif, recalibrated to the contemporary and the Scandalizing Bondage Straps of Spring Atelier 1992/Fall-Winter 1992 Ready-To-Wear. All made Rakish Appearances, but transmuted into the Fabric of what Fashion is now, not what it was!

As Vacarello proved his mettle with this most Accomplished Debut. If this is where Vaccarello is now, in this first Salvo, He has nowhere but The Sun, The Moon And The Stars Ahead of him. Donatella has ensconced it would seem finally, the right man for the job in the Little Sister House to the Big Sister House of Versace. She may actually have a Successor to the Big Label on her hands! Watch Out, World, Versus is BACK! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Opening Ceremony.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






Creating contemporaneous fashion that has a patently Futuristic bent about it and still does not look like a Artifact from the Past on how Future fashion would look is quite the task, Indeed. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim for their brand Opening Ceremony, were perhaps not gripped with such an idea but it is exactly what they accomplished, Quite Handily, In fact. The first part of the Equation... The Setting for their Spring 2015 show.

They commissioned a One-Night Only Play, Shown on the Stage of the Met Opera, Written by Jonah Hill and Directed by Spike Jonze called "100% Pure Cotton" and as much as the idea of those Two people being involved in ANYTHING is enough to make one retch, The clothes being provided for this little piece of "Theater" were Quite Fetching. Lim and Leon Invigorated Sportswear Basics with Fresh Vitality by focusing on interesting Accents and surprising cuts that Amplified the appeal immensely. 

Relying on the crutch though of a "Play" with actors ranging from the Luminously Beautiful Elle Fanning, Provocateur John Cameron Mitchell of "Hedwig And The Angry Inch" Fame, Character Actor powerhouse Bobby Cannevale, and The always Deliciously Acerbic Catherine Keener may have been a tip too much over into the arena of The Silly. It in the end was a Peculiar, and from the reaction of the Fashion Crowd at Large, Mostly Successful card for the duo to play, though the true stars turned out to be the clothes. 

Those Clothes, From Slot Like metal Grommets adorning pieces to the Curved cuts and Asymmetry, or just the Bold addition of a Black bar of fabric across a Sharp cut White day dress, were Crisp and Sporty, and looked Forward, in a Riveting way. The Instant Appeal of a Cherry Pink Neoprene Snap-Front jacket with Black Culotte shorts was Palpably Tangible. Leon and Lim proved, with ample skill, that even sometimes a Pretentious Idea (the "Play") can get in the way of things, if you Provide the Goods when it comes down to the clothes, They Will Win the Day. And Win, They Did! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Edun.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






Sometimes, A specific idea or inspiration can overtake someone and they lose all sense of distance and perspective from said inspiration. They become enamoured of this Idee Fixe and are Hellbound to it, for good or bad. Danielle Sherman suffered from this effect in totality when it came to her rather unfortunate Spring 2015 Edun collection. There were Hardly any outfits that spoke on the principles of Urban, Contemporary dressing in the Present Tense, her wares looked more like Costumes of some Tween Book Drama made Movie with the Latest Doughy Faced, Talentless actress heading the cast (Did someone say Jennifer Lawrence...???) 

Admittedly, Broken Down into it's component parts and rearranged with other pieces separate from this collection, the pieces, Inspired by painting on African masks and Judo Outfits (wasn't that also a thing Last Spring?) and even the Work of Roy Lichtenstein, would make for Interesting Fashion. However, shown the way they were, the constituent parts did not harmonize with one another. It looked Costume-y and more Obviously, Pretentious. Arty for the sake of Art alone with not a Conclusively clear focus on the Woman that would look good in these combinations. 

The difficulty in severely Critiquing the collection is that many of the Ideas Sent forth were quite Beautiful, Those Spots just became Trying in the utmost about halfway through, as they didn't contribute any of the sense of Exoticism or Ethnicity that Sherman intended. And Counterpointed against the Asian Judo Styling, The clothes looked Disjointed. Sherman hit Pay Dirt when she let the Simple, Natural beauty of the clothes speak... A belted waist Black dress with White and Red accents on Binx Walton was Deceptively simple but looked Nuanced and Sleek, Also, A White Dress with the Spot detailing early in the show was Clearly Powerful. 

Danielle Sherman is keeping Edun forward in the minds of the Fashion Cognoscenti by giving very Innovative Ideas to digest in her fashion, and with this collection proves she can design a Tricky collection that still has impact and is concurrent with the prevailing winds of the Zeitgeist. But she will need to begin tempering that creativity with Judiciousness if she is to be truly Successful!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Diane Von Furstenberg.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






The Cote D'Azur is an endless font of inspiration to sip from greedily. It provides SO much fodder for so many from Madamoiselle herself to Michael Kors and everyone in between. But ONLY can the Feminine Wildfire Force that is DVF (Do we REALLY need to qualify what those initials stand for at this point in time?) can extract what the REAL, TRUE Essence of what the "Cote D'Azur" in it's Epoque D'Or was like the Fascinating Firebrand of a woman that is DVF. Not only Did she live the life, She witnessed most of the best times of the Mythical age of the place. 

However, Knowing the past in no way means being obeisant to it, and DVF is not a Woman to live in anyone's past, least of all... Her Own! She is a resolute forward looking kinda Fierce Female, so even though there was a Tinge of the Great Heyday of the Blue Coast, von Furstenberg stayed true to her vision of the Modern Woman. This was made manifest by a Joyously Unparalleled celebration of Fun, Flirtatious, Confident Femininity! This collection was surely one of DVF's most Animated and Exultant collections to date! The overarching component of this collection was that it was almost entirely composed of Black and White... pretty much from Stem to Stern. 

That element of Monochrome Grounded the collection and kept it from being a Homage to a Bygone past and Contemporized it into the fabric of the life of a Woman of Today. She addressed the always present Elephant in the DVF room with Aplomb, and a good deal of Sauciness, her Evergreen staple.. the Wrap Dress. In Black and White Gingham (which was to be seen as a Through-Line of the whole show) that was a Flirtatious combo of Jersey and Chiffon made to Seduce rather than Inflame! A good Quarter of the show was in this colour choice and gave a Spine to many looks that could be seen as too Flouncy and perhaps, Saccharine.

A focus on the Bust was outwardly apparent, but a certain Flavour of Southern Europe radiated from Von Furstenberg's choice of Prints, which this season relied basically on Elegant, Wallpaper-y Florals and a Toile pattern that was especially Powerful in a Coat on Julia Nobis in Black and White. Also, an Artistic "Leaf" print in Marine Blue that had a Certain Matisse feeling to it, Looked Smashing. DVF showed her Strongest self in this Magnificent collection that was so Spellbindingly Upbeat, even the Models were Grinning and Smiling like Giddy School girls! Ms. Von Furstenberg is Undisputedly the First Lady of Seventh Avenue and is Flexing her muscle with more strength than ever before and it would seem in this later stage of her life... hitting her stride. With results like this on display, She has more than One Act left in the Smash Hit Story that is her Life, in which she is Undoubtedly, The Star! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Thakoon.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






What is in Thakoon Panichgul's Mind? His last few collections have been thoroughly Incomprehensible. They have been Tragically miscalculated adventures into the realm of Baffling! Spring 2015 was no less Perplexing an affair. Panichgul's collection teetered on the edges of Sensual Languidness to Awkward Clumsiness with surprising fleetness. One moment, Liquid Femininity, another moment, Clunky Dishevelment. Had Panichgul decided which Plan of attack to stick to and commit the collection would not have veered off into such unevenness, However, he tried to serve two different Masters and Failed them both. 

Arcing from Fluid Pajama Silks to Insipid Leaf prints and clouded over with a Dismally Unappealing colour palette of Deep Cranberry and Marine Blue to an Awkwardly Eye-Searing shade of Electric Turquoise, Panichgul charted a course on Fashion Seas that had a few Crests and lots of Troughs. One of those troughs was the Perfectly ridiculous fringe that was shagged over the striped pieces and looked more silly than what one thinks Panichgul was going for. Then there were the Polka Dots and Flamenco Ruffles... 

By the end, the onlooker was begging for a Sanity Refreshing moment of Calm from all the slightly imbalanced going's on. Not that there were no points where Panichgul did not present clothes that were overly contrived, Indeed not, but those were, Sadly, few! A White Trapeze top with Pleated Peplum over a Polka Dot front split skirt worn over fluid Polka Dot pants in White on Black was Decidely Lovely and Poetic, as was a brief little Pin-Pleated dress with Yellow and Black fringe detail hitting just the right spot. 

Somehow, this collection managed to be Desirable and Off-Putting in equal measure, it wasn't an accomplished effort by any means, though it did have some Greatly Appealing pieces that lifted the collection out of the doldrums just long enough to inspire a Smirk of Joy across one's Visage. Still in All, A Quizzical Offering to be Sure!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, November 24, 2014

Yigal Azrouel.

Sun. 09/07/2014.





Yigal Azrouel.

For Spring 2015 Yigal Azrouel presented a collection that was Simple and Realistic, if not altogether Exciting. It wasn't Complex or Elaborate, but it was Refreshing and Wearable with easy accessibility for his Customer. Citing Surfers and Surfer style as his Template for the season meant that the Sportiness was built into the DNA of the clothes this season and they lived up quite successfully to that train of thought.

With a Breezy, surprisingly compatible Palette of Olive Green, Claret, Chambray Blue and Shell Pink with Black and White as grounding agents. The best outfits were Full of Freshness and Charm, with a Hint of Sensual ripeness peeking through, A Filmy Pink Wrap blouse and Breezy skirt was the best piece in the whole show and looked Splendidly Sportish and Elegant. A crisp White Shirt and Elliptical skirt exuded Summery, Beachy Cool.

The last pieces in Black Cloque Lace were Unnecessary and seemed out of place and A bit too Heavy and Naive. They didn't suit the rest of the collection but were not bad enough to detract. Azrouel didn't make the Earth Move, but he presented a Solid Collection full of Ease and Playfulness.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Porsche Design.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






Porsche Design is poised to become the next Big Luxury Fashion Label with Innovative, Experimentally influenced Sportswear done in Expensive, Desirable fabrics and with a Futuristic, Tech flavoured bent to them. Thomas Steinbrueck has a Stunning Grasp on the DNA of this brand and is producing Extremely Directional and Forward Sportswear for the house. Steinbrueck's Spring 2015 treatise sees him pushing the boundaries ever forward and expanding his vocabulary in Great leaps.

Taking Futurism and Japanese minimalism cross-pollinated with A Languid, Bohemian Ease, Steinbrueck's collection was Intensely Compelling, but flawed. There was a bit too much experimentation that did not pay off and some very Awkward, and dare one say, Unflattering cuts to some of the clothes. Steinbrueck called this interesting admixture "Zentech" Which was Frighteningly On Point! 

Keeping with the idea of Minimalism, the palette was restricted to Navy, Black, White, and Tan with touches of Butterscotch, Tobacco, Celadon and other Neutral tones as counterbalance. Incorporate a Daring and Artful Architectural Sensuality of Cut and Drape to the mix and the collection was Light Years ahead of it's contemporaries. The Sculptural opening Wrap dress was a thing of Incalculable Beauty and worked the Future/Classic vibe Marvellously. In all Honesty... there was far too many Incredible pieces here to make a full account of without lapsing into the Prolix, Steinbrueck's Prodigious Ability was altogether apparent here. 

The best part about the collection was when Steinbrueck kept things Reductive, showing how Artful Simplicity can reap the richest benefits. A Stone Grey blouse and fluid wide Suede Trousers were Thoughtful of the Modern Woman's need for Classic clothes with Intricate details. An angular Paper White draped dress was Sensuously swathed around the contours of the body. Also of Incredible Appeal, A Kimono Neck wrap dress with a Built-In Obi in Midnight Blue Shot Charcoal was EXQUISITE! A Super Supple Mineral Grey Suede Drapee Dress was another Clear Winner! 

This was just but a sampling of Brilliance amongst the throng of Stellar pieces, Even with the more Clunky pieces, Steinbrueck presented an Intellectually Stimulating and frankly, Provocative collection that strove to push the Boundaries of Artistic Sportswear and easily won the day doing so. Porsche Design has a Very Strong Future with Steinbrueck at the wheel (Pardon the Pun) and stands at the precipice of being the next Major Deluxe Sportswear Brand. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Tracy Reese.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






Breakthrough. That's how I feel that Tracy Reese's Spring 2015 collection felt! Like a Tremendous, Luxurious, Breakthrough. Her show this season was Exquisite! Modern, Edgy, Glamourous and Sportive but with a strong sense of Luxury that was Undeniably Obvious. This was NOT Contemporary, This was Pure Deluxe Sportswear! 

Reese showed a collection that was Eccentrically Beautiful and Opulent in a very Sporty, Of-The-Moment way. The collection was inspired by Her Mother and Aunt who were Dancers and most potently, Martha Graham. This brought the Fluidity and Motion of Dance to the Sweeping and Dramatic scope of the clothes but tempered by a thoroughly Present Tense idea of Wearability and Modernity. These were clothes for the Dancer in real life, but inspired by her moments onstage, translated for offstage purposes. It made for Romance of the most Palpable sort!

Reese began with a Languid and Sensually Fluid opening look of a Black Silk Bathrobe and matching Pants with a Dancer's Leotard which was Powerful in it's Gracefulness as an Arabesque. Reese broke the collection into Three Sections entitling the First Section Discipline, which embodied the Dancer in her down time, How she comes to the studio and how she looks when she leaves... Fluid Shapes and Coats, Full swirling skirts, this was the strongest section of the show mainly because of it's Minimal approach. A Lemon Chiffon Yellow Cardigan paired with a Blush Leotard and Matching Organza skirt stood out beautifully in this section!

Section Two was titled Craft, and this was much more Extrovert and Playful, reverting more to Reese's usual Sensibilities, done though in a far more Charming manner. The Mix was more Sophisticated than ever, even if it was far more Ecstatic in it's outward look in Lavish Tropical Prints, Sequins and Embroideries, Leopard prints, Vibrant Colours and More! It was at times, Deliciously Cacophonous, Somehow though, Reese managed to exert steely control.

The Final pages of this Symphony of Ravishing Fashion saw Reese insert a Valentino Sensibility into the clothes which were rife with Naif Romance and Sweeping Grandeur. Lavish fabrications and Girlish Embroideries gave this section a Sophisticated, yet Gay edge that was full of Strong mixes of Colour, Material and Shape. This section brought the show to a Confident clothes and took the Dancer Idea from Blatant to Exquisitely Subtle and proved that Reese has moved into a new phase of her work that is benefiting her in an Amazing Manner! More, Please! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, November 20, 2014

DKNY.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






Spring 2015 proved to be a Daring and Eclectic affair for DKNY and it's designer, Donna Karan. Karan Took an Experimental tack that brought Interesting, though mixed results. It was a Strong showing, Karan noted in her program that the collection was "Multicolored, Multiracial, Multitasking" and in fact named it New York Nation, as if New York was a Continent of it's own. 

With a Variety of Shapes and Colours, Karan brought a Multi-Culti sensibility to the proceedings that often times worked, especially when she let Simplicity be her guide... a Full Skirted Day dress with New Look Proportions, A Pair of Long striped T-Shirt Dresses... A Black dress inset with Rust and White Stripes. Conversely, However, Karan let the Extravagance of her vision get the best of her. Things got Overly Busy, Overly Fast... Full, swirling skirts on top of long tube skirts with a Sweater tunic on top, Clashing Prints in Matchy Matchy colour schemes, Optics with Stripes... and On and On, piled atop one another. It was a Riotous Visual overload, Sometimes it was Fascinating and Refreshing, others, it was Stimulus Congestion! 

Karan would do herself better to keep in touch with the things that make her collection work and desirable, like she did when she so keenly honed in on her own history for her 25th Anniversary Collection last Spring and it was one of her best collections to date, This wasn't a Catastrophe, in fact, it was quite Bold and Interesting, But sometimes Too Much, is just that. Gropius, in this case, was right, Less Is More! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Derek Lam.

Sun. 09/07/2014.





Derek Lam.

I don't know why, But as I perused the images of Derek Lam's Spring 2015 collection, I couldn't stop envisioning, Equally, The "Brady Bunch" Women's (Alice, not included) Innocence and the Magnificent Sensuality of "Charlie's Angels" This Cross-Pollination of the Benign, Pretty, Feminine Chasteness of the Brady's to the "Angels" Bountiful, Fresh, Beachy Ripened, Playful Sexuality all came to the fore in Lam's Extraordinary Spring collection! The 70's is a Fertile Playground for Designers to frolic in, usually with somewhat less literal results, but that Lam went full on Way Back in the Way Back Time Machine yielded a surprisingly Fabulous collection from the always Fabulous Lam!

All That Suede... All That Topstitching... how could one not be transported to the Time of Beachy, Southern California, "Sister Golden Hair" Hippie/Boho, Haight-Ashbury Chicness? It was impossible not to smile when gazing upon these pieces offered up by Lam, The Positivity of the Colours, Dusty Lilac, Violet, Haze Blue, Mallard Teal, Raisin, Mineral Green, An orgy of Upbeat and Chipper Hues combined in Glorious ways to enhance the 70's feeling of the collection. Lam's excision of the inherently overworked and overdone just showed in stronger relief the Beauty of the Patchworking and Topstitching accents.

Lam has secured a Niche for himself in offering Sportswear with an extremely special Patina to them, Here among the already unique, but still basic pieces, He showed more Risk with this collections more Editorial pieces, defining a Delicate balance between the two Hemispheres. Example, The Patchwork Topcoat in Dusty Raisin, Lilac, and Haze Blue with a Simple Shift dress in that same Lilac was Thrillingly Extrovert but still as easily wearable as the perfect White Shirt and Pant Ensemble with Lam's new riff on the Matelot Pant. Those Matelot details showed up Often and always looked fresh, as Lam did not wear out their welcome, In a Black Gilet and Pant set it worked Majestically, As it did on a more decorated Ensemble consisting of a skirt with the Sailor button and a Brass Studded top all in White.

The only low point to this collection, The Two Finale dresses were incredibly Frumpy and Flat feeling without One, Single Trace of Glamour. It was an odd choice for the Finale, after the Major success of all that came before, to leave this as the lingering last look of the Marvellous show, was certainly a Steep Miscalculation. One that could be forgiven for the rest of everything was so Stupendous, but still, a discombobulating decision!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Public School.

Sun. 09/07/2014.






Restrained Exuberance. Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow indulged in some of that for their "Order Out Of Chaos" Inspired Spring 2015 collection for their Label Public School. Taking advice from High Priestess Anna Wintour, that they must make the move, Seriously, Into Womenswear, the Menswear Duo focused more than half of their Spring Opus on the Feminine with a very strong output of Men's to boot. 

This collection was Obstinately Tricky, Something that in less confident hands, could be ruinous. It was a testament to Osborne and Chow's Skill that they managed to make the Trickery Look Crisp, Fresh and Urban without being Excessive. How they were able to make the tricks look Minimal and Modern, Well, Kudos to them, because some of the Clothes they showed could have easily looked Ridiculous.

The Menswear was a little too Progressive for my personal aesthetic, that doesn't mean that it wasn't Spot-On perfect for what the duo wanted to achieve, but it was really in the Women's clothes were they Shined. A Smart and Savvy focus on Monochrome Black and White gave an Airiness to the opening looks that was welcome and well served by the Minimalistic approach. This was followed by Navy and Grey and Black which was also showing a Vein of Restraint. 

From this point on, Osborne and Chow began experimenting and showed more flourishes in their outfits, An especially Pretty Graphic print in Turquoise and White stood out Wonderfully so. but to put the finest point on it, the best outfits were in Black and White, like the long White Topcoat with the Ocean Wave print blouse and Black Drawstring Trousers, or the Cinch waist top and Flippy Skirt on Betty Adewole That was the best piece in the entire show! 

This being Osborne and Chow's Second Women's Presentation, and being of such Covetous Appeal as it is, The future looks nothing but Fabulous for the Duo of Public School. If they continue on showing Standout Collections in the manner that their first seasons have been... They are poised to be the Next Major Fashion Dynamic Duo! Count On It!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Victoria Beckham.

Sun. 09/07/2014.





Victoria Beckham.

One Miss Victoria Beckham has come a very long way from her first Super Confident, Iper-Feminine Early Days as a Fledgling designer in the NY Fashion Firmament. Where many expected her to be a One-Off Wonder with no hopes of establishing a Business of any kind of Longevity, she has proved beyond all doubt that she is Here, Present and Hyper Focused... and that she's Here To Stay!

Beckham's Spring 2015 collection looked as if though she was channeling "Sporty Spice" rather than her former Spice Girl moniker of "Posh Spice" This was a collection that essentially turned her back on her Bread-And-Butter Foundation of Sublimely Sculpted and Sinewy Evening wear, of which there was absolutely NONE to be found in this collection, And THAT became a Major Stumbling Block. Beckham Focused on a Very Modern, Strict Style this season that had Military and Sportif elements saturated through it's DNA but very Little that was Recognizable Victoria.

It made for a Collection Easy to Process by the Latter-Day Stylista, working it's Sportswear Luxe Vibe to the Nth Degree, but it left one feeling a little... Shall one say... Cheated, that Becks didn't Give us a Little more Shimmy in her Shake this season. She has been focusing recently on Hyped up Deluxe Sporty as her Niche and reaping some Very Positive rewards yet at the same time this has overshadowed her Original Modus Operandi. This makes for an Imbalance and that Beckham is Ignoring what made her label so Desirous!

But in saying that, there was much to Desire for Spring 2015, from a Military-ish Shirt dress early in the proceedings in a Jute Linen to a pair of Coats in Natural and Black that Zipped asymmetrically and looked Great by themselves, but had a Shade of the Awkward about them paired with the Midi length skirts that were underneath. The lengths here too, made for an Ungainly outing in the utmost and dragged down the collection. When Beckham eased back on the "FASHION" element of the collection and let the clothes simply Be and Breathe, She Struck Gold.

Her best Moves were when she paired a Cropped or Abbreviated top with her Long Skirts, A Crisp Black Shirt with a Slit front skirt hit the Bull's Eye as did a LOVELY Rib Knit White "Tank" Dress with a bold Black Stripe at the hem! The Pink/White Floral "Camo" print Pantsuit was a Most Audacious and Surprisingly Modern approach to a piece that can, even in the most assured hands, be boring!

It was a Lot of Good and a good deal of Not So Good that Beckham sauntered forth on her Runway, But, incredibly, it was Nonetheless Compelling and the Winners captivated roundly. One would like to drop a Bug in Vic's ear and let her know, It's ok to still be Glamourous... In fact, in this time of life... We're Needing It! And one thing is for sure, Victoria Beckham has a PHD In Glamourous!





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Monday, November 17, 2014

Altuzarra.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






Eroticism is a Tough card to play in a Winning Hand with High Fashion. It can slip off that line between Simmering and Sluttish with surprising Ease. Especially if one is trying to portray a sense of Sensual Eroticism and not Sexual. Joseph Altuzarra Hit perhaps the Highest point in his Career so far with his Spring 2015 Collection that Captured the Mood of Sublimated Sex Aching for Release. That feeling of a Tigress Itching to Burst forth from her Cage and Man Eat her way to Satiation was Palpably Omnipresent! 

Altuzarra Suppressed his Woman's Ripe and Fertile Sexualness but let it peek through in Enticing and Deliciously Covert ways, The Suit with nothing worn under it's Curvaceous Blazer matched with a Skirt that was unbuttoned just a little too high, all this paired with Fetishistic High Strappy heels... This Woman was trying for all she was worth to fit into the "Proper" Mould, but was Failing Miserably, Her sensual underpinnings were straining at her seams threatening to burst out with nigh Explosive force. This Giddy Dichotomy was central to the Inner Workings of this most Gloriously Glowing Ode to the Feminine!

The Schizophrenic Duality at play here yielded a result that was surprisingly Chaste in it's Innocence, which was so unexpected because of the Rawness of the Sensual, Erotic nature that Altuzarra imbued within the construct of Restraint. This was even more so Heightened by the use of Lushly Feminine and almost Frivolously Innocent materials like the Pink Gingham fabrics that opened the show. The Contrariety of the Girlish Gingham and The Iper-Femme Silhouettes that had an almost Fifties Bent to them was what unsettled the Normalcy and made Altuzarra's offerings all the more Unhinged. 

Couple all this with Leggy, Lean, Willowy proportioned pants and Pencil Skirts and you had the makings of a Sex Bomb Opus Magnum. Altuzarra seemed to be conjuring Inspirational Images from Sophia Loren to Rizzo from Grease to a Sexified June Cleaver. He took and twisted the Wasp-Waist Shirt Dress into something altogether and wholly New in French Blue and White Gingham as well as Black and White... this Black/White Motif transformed from Checks into Bold Stripes that were Punctuated by Luxuriously rich looking Saddle Leather, To Balance out all this Monochromatic colour, Altuzarra injected some Nutmeg Suede and showed off more of his Fetishist side with some open Lattice work Leather pieces that were inspired by Renaissance Architecture, 

Altuzarra's Finale was a thing of Utter Romance, Swirling, Lush, Flowing Pearl trimmed gowns in Exquisitely Decadent Materials that ended with Kati Nescher in an Extravagant Gold Brocade Gown that Stole one's Breath! Altuzarra is One of his generations Greatest talents and this collection was an Apotheosis of Feminine Sensuality tempered with the Highest Level of Chicness. Altuzarra seems to keep getting better and better with each collection, One can only imagine what he holds next for us! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Alexander Wang.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






The Sleekness! The Speed! Hard Core Sport! The Alexander Wang Spring 2015 collection was Everything! Wang's collection had It ALL! From opening with his Version of Modern Business Wear with a Sylph Sleek, Razor Sharp Zip-Front Jacket with Wang's Barcode Signature waistband to a few exits later with the Strappy, Body Loving Dresses designed after Nike Gym Shoes in Bright saturated Colours. Wang traversed Multiple pathways, but as the old saying implying that all roads lead to Rome, All those pathways led back to Wang's Fierce Focus and Steely Vision which brought his show to a Fever Pitch of Perfection! 

Wang started with Athletic Footwear as his Point of Departure, Adidas and Nike being the most obvious of the styles contributing to Wang's Designs. But being the designer that Wang is, This was not just a proposition of Athletics and Footwear, There was Serious Design Devoted to Jackets, Dresses and Especially, PANTS, all at times given touches of the Footwear detailing or designed as Chic Conspirators to the More athletically inclined pieces! This focus on the Athletic also injected a bit of Fembot High Sex into the clothes which was Perfectly conjoined to the Body Emphasizing Feeling of the Presentation! 

Wherever one looked, they found clothes that were the Epitome of Modern Chic. Witness a Wrap waisted Chalk White Jacket with Skinny Cigarette Pants that stole the entire show. Or, The Liquid simplicity of the trio of long Satin Jersey Dresses with Mesh Insets that served as Sportif Evening gowns. This all culminated in a Saucy and Perfectly Calibrated showing of Short little Engineered Multicolour and Black Tennis Style dresses and Revamped, Lean Satin Tuxedo pants paired with Intricately woven tops that looked like they were constructed from Sneaker Shoestrings!

Wang Is in a position to conquer whatever territory he interests himself in with Powerhouse collections like this. He has proven, beyond doubt, that he is one of the New York Power Players. As he continues to top himself season to season, we can look for him to take his rightful position in the Highest levels of the Fashion Hierarchy. Spring 2015 was one of Wang's High Water Marks and should be considered one of the finest of the entire season!





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Christian Siriano.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






As much as I Truly Adore Christian Siriano, his Spring 2015 Collection just slipped out of his hands and Shattered like the Glass of Artist Sergio Redegalli that inspired him. Siriano's designs suffered under the weight of Overdesign and Mediocrity. This was a Bloated and Frankly, Insipid offering. Much was just Gaudily Unsophisticated. 

Siriano is a Very, Very Talented designer, but he sometimes succumbs to his indulgence to Indulge and his editing ability falls by the wayside. Here, Surely Less, MUCH Less, would have been more. Also, the Haute Quotient was missing and unfortunately a lot of this Misadventure did not look as Expensive as it could, couple that with the Overly Tricky cuts and silhouettes, and things devolved quickly and irretrievably by the mid section of the show. 

It's a little of an exercise in the Unnecessary to go into Lavish detail about the Clunkers, and there were many, but the pieces that did work are up to Par with Siriano's best work and may be some of his most beautiful pieces. A Deep V-Neck White Crepe Gown early in the collection had Immense Sensuality in that Breezy, California, 70's kinda way and amply Impressed, A simple White top and Gigantic Ink Blue Faille skirt was Fresh while still being Ultra Dramatic. 

Before Ending, it must be mentioned, the main Tripping point here and in other Siriano Collections, When he does not FIERCELY Edit himself, His choice of Fabric, Even if they May themselves be expensive, have a Prom Like/Catalog Cheapness of look to them, Par Example, that Shiny Sapphire Lame, or that Multicolour Green Brocade and others, all looked more appropriate to a Chintzy Interior design scheme rather than Couture Quality Clothing. This is something that last Spring he avoided handily, but this season it got the serious best of him! 

In the end, Not at all a collection up to Siriano's level of Skill and Facility.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Suno.

Fri. 09/05/2014.






Even Good Designers have Bad days. Usually, one to count on to make an at the very least, memorable effort, Max Osterweiss and Erin Beatty came through with a Confusing Mishegas that had so few points of Satisfaction that the collection felt terminally sunk in the Muck of it's own Underwhelming-ness and Disconcerting-ness! 

The Delightfully Energizing Multicolour Rainbow stripes were potently positive, but were nowhere near as Refreshing as the Polished Baby Blue Trench coat and Crop pants on Beauty Manon Leloup! In fact, as nice as those Stripes were, had Osterweis and Beatty focused more on the Polish and less on the Exotic. the collection would have benefited greatly from it. A sharper focus on Proportion would have also given a better Patina to the Show.

This though doesn't deny that when they Duo hit the High Notes, they hit them with Clarion Precision. A Hoodie Popover worn over a Ticking Stripe shirt and shorts, A swingy Dotted Navy Blue Tank Dress, these stood out strongly because of their Purity and not laden down with excesses. The rest of the collection was severely Hit or Miss and proved to be one of Beatty and Osterweis's less Well-Managed outings. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, November 10, 2014

Tibi.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






Amy Smilovic wanted to Counterpoint Japan by way of Peru in her Mostly Unsuccessful, Yet somewhat interesting Spring 2015 Tibi Collection. The Motivation was Unique, the Handling was what got Gawky and Clunky. It was a particularly odd pairing, one that in more nimble hands would have reaped perhaps richer rewards, Yet in this iteration, erred more on the Clumsy side. Not to say there were not moments when all the Cosmos aligned and the clothes fell into place.

The Quilting on the opening passage looks had the effect of Japanese Armor and added some Exotic element that the mainly Black, Navy, White and Grey Helped keep from looking costumey. The proportions though, are what weighed this collection down the most. Smilovic's Cuts many times made the even Reed-Thin models look Wide and Boxy and That's Never a Good Thing! 

When Smilovic restrained herself and let Simplicity be her guide, she was in the presence of her best design self. A Little Navy Crop top with a Billowy Crisp White skirt, A White Poplin Dance Dress with a sash waist, A Macrame Lace Tunic with a Navy Blue skirt... all these were Fantastic Examples of Smilovic working her Minimalist Oeuvre to it's best. There were other examples, as were examples of her wayward hand with Cut and Shape. 

Smilovic is usually more keen on being less Esoteric. Bravo to her for stepping outside her Familiar Safety Zone, Though it didn't manage to provide a platform for excellence. Smilovic's Tibi collections are always a little on the uneven side, this just happened to be one of the more Lopsided Exercises.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Herve Leger By Max Azria.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






Joyous Colours and Japonica Kimono Prints added a bit of lively lift and pizzazz to an otherwise unconvincing and pretty mundane effort from the Husband and Wife team of Max and Lubov Azria. The Kimono Sleeve and Samurai Armor effects only added a Small amount of interest to the otherwise Business as usual affair of Slinky, Painted-On Bandage-Style dresses the house is known for. To be honest, The duo do know how to Work a Wiggle for all it's worth, but it's just become all to Familiar and Badly executed to matter.

The Azria's Provided some new treatments via Faux Corset lacing and Some Tie-Dye printing, which did sauce things up a tad yet, somehow it wasn't enough to provide a sense of Exhilaration. Evening was more Successful with Lacing effects on a series of dresses than some elaborate studding and beading on the Final Passage and they had a rather cunningly Stylish and Sexy bent to them. However, That didn't provide enough fire to heat this collection to anything more than Lukewarm. It was a Good Effort, but one that was a familiar presentation from the Azria's!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Ralph Rucci.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






It's OH So Difficult to not Wax Prosaic about a Ralph Rucci Collection. He Captivates the viewer with a Technique so Formidable and Brilliant that the clothes seem borne from some other Dimension. His skills in channeling the Minutiae of the Intricate is Obscenely Awesome. The Minute and Infinitesimal Calculations that are imbued in Rucci's work are as much works of A Mathematician as that of the Dedicated Artiste,

In the last Season or so, Rucci has curbed his more Prosaic tendencies and taken to Heart the criticisms of his detractors who Chastised his Artistic Zeal and Exuberance and perhaps even old school Habits of Profusion in Outfit Exits. So, Starting Last season, Rucci cut his Show Edit nearly in Half and Whittled down his more Extreme Penchants, as in his Stultifyingly Exquisite "Infanta" Ballgowns and his Large section of Super Couture-Quality Evening pieces. This has led to his collections being less the Operatic Phantasmagorias than they used to, which in a certain way, is greatly missed, but it has honed his Focus and given him the ability to Distill his vision to it's Essence and pare back the Extraneous.

This can be viewed in two ways, One, That some of the inherent Drama of such past Spectaculars is now missing and somehow, Something of the Dazzling Magic of Rucci's Oeuvre has been siphoned off in replacement with following the path of the advice of  Investors and Critics. That is a Valid Hypothesis. There is the Second View, That now that Rucci has emerged into what many consider, the 21st Century and has Forced himself to Edit Ferociously, That it has Energized his work and Stripped away the Excesses that some considered to Bloat his previous collections. Again. Valid.  

Whichever side of that Psychological Fence you decide to Stake your claim on is up to the Individual. I, tend to follow the theory that, Rucci, Simply wants his business to be that, A BUSINESS. This entails that now, He may have to Finagle his vision in accordance to the current winds blowing though the Fashion Landscape to accommodate such a Desire. That Also means, he has had to adjust his Aesthetic to fit that vision. It's not unreasonable that he would want to establish a Business that will allow him to flourish into the future without worry. One has no need to Question such a move, and in response to such a desire, Rucci has adapted with, In my estimation, Flawless Aplomb. He has taken to this task as a Fish would to Water. Yes, Some of the Marvellous Resplendence of his Abundance of the Past has been drained away, but what that has left is a Categorical Concentration on Only what is Essential, And that is an Exciting Gambit in and of itself!

This collection was a Fierce Dissertation on this exact Idee. He edited his collection down to only 37 Exits. For Rucci, This is tantamount to Cutting off Sampson's Hair, but there was a Jittery Excitement to such a proposition that Imbued his collection with a Lightning Spark Frisson. There was a Breathlessness that one felt, as it made for much more scrutiny of each Outfit and when the truly Diabolical Examples of his Punishing Exactitude did appear, they were even more Heart-Stoppingly Extraordinary!

Rucci proved adept at surmounting the Dichotomy of Simplifying his Oeuvre yet retaining that Couture edge of Supreme Difficulty of Execution. From the Opening Wrap dress that was as Clean, Modern and Fresh as anything this season, but had that Razor Sharpness that is signature to the house! From this Opening Stance, Rucci pursued his Passion for Strategic and Artistic Cutouts and Sheer Insets, One of these Specimens, A Yellow Pantsuit, was Scrolled with Strips of Fabric on a Sheer Back that was Intergrated into the Solid base of the Jacket was Dizzyingly Elaborate, But maintained a Element of the Extemporaneous and Organic. This was Contrapunctally poised against the Most Heavenly, Unforced naturalness of a Nougatine Dress traced in Black Zippers which Worn on the Leggy Goddess Maria Borges was a thing of Such Perfection, it seemed to exist in a different dimension!

This is but just a sample of the Riches Mined in this collection, More Examples, A Sleek, Slender White Sheath with one Sheer Sleeve in Front and one and in Back with angled Embroidery on the hem, An ornately worked Sleeveless Trapeze Tunic over Cigarette Pants, or the Most Scintillating Outfit in the show... a Quietly Opulent gown in Fog Grey Crepe with an Underskirt of Quicksilver Sequins was Hauntingly Devastating!

As Imaan Hammam Strode out as the Finale Model in a Navy Blue Silk Floor-Length deflated "Infanta" version of the opening dress on Jamie Bochert, There was an Eloquent and Dynamic sense of Continuity and Cohesion that was presented with a Perspective on Awe and Drama! Rucci has scaled Scope of his Purview back to an Incredibly Distilled Essence. It's exciting to see where this in the future will lead him, which vistas Rucci will alight his Eye upon... There is no doubt that wherever he chooses to Plant his flag... Brilliance will spring up in that place!





That's All.





Bye4Now!






Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Rebecca Taylor.

Sat. 09/06/2014.





Rebecca Taylor.

Did Rebecca Taylor produce a Groundbreaking and Stunning Show for Spring 2015. Did she push any Envelopes or Break any Barriers? No. She did produce a Fresh, Lively, Somewhat uneven, But nonetheless Delightful Collection. Taylor was looking to give her woman Colour and Beauty for Spring and encompass a Fragile, Delicate Beauty. She achieved that handily with sometimes a little heavy handedness on certain Ideas and Motifs.

The standout pieces were when Taylor Juxtaposed Strong Tailoring against Softer, more Ethereal pieces. For Example... A Quartz Pink tailored Wrap Jacket with slashes revealing a Print material underneath paired with a Wisp of a Pale Orchid Crystal Pleated Skirt. Also in Evidence, A China Blue coat worn over a heavily adorned Cream coloured dress underneath. There were less successful pieces, but they were easily forgotten.

Taylor isn't going to set the world ablaze with her collection this Spring, but her Handle on Feminine, Fresh and Fanciful Frippery is Formidable. That will make her collections always a Sure and Easy winner. Spring 2015 wasn't Free of Flaws, but it was a Pretty Journey nonetheless!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Prabal Gurung.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






How do I write a review of this collection that doesn't sound like some Vitriolic Outpouring of Bile and Venom? It's a matter perhaps of separating one's Emotional Attachment from one's Objective Detachment. On the one hand... My Visceral Reaction to this collection was an admixture of Bedeviling Hatred for the Farce that Gurung had the Temerity to even insinuate was Clothing and Stupefying Awe that he had the lack of Sense And/Or Taste to send such Inconceivably Repellent clothes down the catwalk. 

On that Shaky, Insecure other hand, One has to view this perhaps as an experiment and look at this with an unbiased Mind and Eye and TRY to find the good in the midst of such Atrociousness. Trekking back up that same Himalayan Mountain that he Soujourned up for Fall and this excursion yielded no more better results than that last Voyage. It couldn't have been much worse than last season, but it came Dangerously close. Gurung proclaimed that this collection was about the same woman as last season, but now she's making her trek up the Mountain in the Spring, when the snow is melted and the Ground is just starting to Green. As Romantic and Lovely a Notion as that seems, the clothes were a clumsy and odd juxtaposition to such a Flowery description.

When Gurung Reigned in his Tendencies to Over-Exaggerate, things seemed to have been a little safer and approachable, But all too often, he couldn't help piling on the extras without any editing or regard for anything other than his own Exuberance. And that made the Collage effect pieces and Undeniably Awkward angular cuts and hemlines... Where Gurung meant, it would seem, these to be Spontaneous and Artistic, they simply looked Drop Dead Hideous and Artless. The only true respite was the Trio of Gloriously Fluid and Bracingly New looking Evening gowns that ended the show, The one in Black and Pink hit the highest notes and would look Great in any City in the World come this Spring. 

Gurung has Immense Talent, as witnessed by his Wiggle-A-Palooza of Spring 2014, Why he has deviated from the path that he was following with that collection and did this Diametric turn towards the Profoundly Overdone work that he has produced with these last couple of collections Astonishes the Mind. Hopefully, his love of his Himalayan Homeland will engender a Better Outing for Fall 2015 if he finds inspiration there again, or hopefully he can Trudge down the Mountain and find his way back to Civilization and back to Beautiful Clothes!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Jill Stuart.

Sat, 09/06/2014.





Jill Stuart.

Jill Stuart occupies a very delicate position in the Fashion Hierarchy. Her clothes are neither occupying the High-End racks of the Department Store. nor are they exactly in the Junior Section. They fall into that Foggy and Overloaded Area known as "Contemporary" This brings up a rather interesting question as well as a Dilemma... Owing that Stuart's Sweet spot is firmly rooted in the, Shall we say, Youthful arena, is it really a necessity for her to show a Full-On collection when there are dozens of other retailers and yes, Designers, doing much the same as she? This collection for Spring 2015 poured more fuel on the fire that it is becoming increasingly less necessary for Stuart and Many other "Contemporary" Designers to show during NY Fashion week when all they present looks like it was done In-House at a Major Retailer.

This is nothing more than Idle Debate really, for its the clothes that matter. And sadly, Stuart's 70's Style "Ice Storm" Pieces did little to raise the Pulse to the point beyond a Murmur! The main Problem, there wasn't much here that looked like any sort of New take on the 70's Inspiration. It felt, in all honesty, like a rehash, and not a very good one. Of course, there were interesting pieces here and there, but when all was said and done, nothing was Memorable or Pushing Boundaries. The added insult was that the clothes fell into that Mainstream Trap at full Velocity and were impossible to salvage from that stumbling block on.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, November 3, 2014

Adam Lippes.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






Morocco is a Fertile ground for the Fashion Industry. Many times has this Furrow been plowed by Numerous and Diverse Designers, YSL being one of the most prominent. That Adam Lippes would hang his hat on this Hoary Chestnut of an Inspire, did not lend itself to great enthusiasm burbling in one's Heart. That he handled the Oft-Used Locales Inspiration with such a Specific and Assured Hand cured any doubts that may have crept in. 

Focusing primarily on Black, Midnight Blue and White with touches of Bone and Pops of Eye-Shocking Pink and Red made for an original take on this Idee, This also made for one of his most Free and even, Exotic collections so far. He used Embellishments with Ardent fervour but never let them take over any piece, the Silk Tassels that he used made for great texture when used in a White coat covered with Tufted Lace tassels, while a Pearl Grey Suit with Dhoti Bermudas gave an Refreshing Twist on a Classic Idea. 

The Stunning simplicity of a Slice of Vanilla Silk created a Daring and Sensual Slip gown that ended his presentation and looked Resolutely Modern. Of equal magnitude, a Black slit neck Micro-Mini T-Shirt Dress that would showcase a pair of long, slender limbs perfectly! Lippes had all his usual Pieces on display here, given a twist of Exoticism but nonetheless amply able to satisfy his usual clientele. He needs to take his show to the runways, when he is producing such Accomplished work as seen here. A Bigger audience needs to be able to imbibe in his Talent. Hopefully, he will make that Transition, Post Haste! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Lacoste.

Sat. 09/06/2014.






I'll Confess up front. I want EVERYTHING Felipe Oliveira Baptista produced for the Menswear section of his Spring/Summer 2015 Lacoste Collection. From the Windbreakers (Especially) that were built into the Tops, Pants, and Sweaters, to the Spectacular Coats and Pants. In fact, Baptista made me want to Wear Purple... And I Patently LOATHE Purple!!! But, somehow he finessed it so that it's all I want to wear now!

This also occasioned to be one of Baptista's Best and Strongest Lacoste collections. There was Careful consideration between Tailored and Casual that lent a very Sporty sense of Luxury to the showing. The Outerwear was of Extraordinary Caliber. Especially those built in Windbreakers... Instantly Lustful! A Breezy White Anorak with Black Piping was an early winner, as was a Taxi Yellow Raincoat that seared itself into one's Memory! The Sportier numbers that looked like Sport Jerseys with the Off-Angle numbers were one of the freshest and strongest looks of the whole season and was a Great Riff on a very popular Street Fashion item.

Even more Wondrous, Baptista's Take on Chambray, Cutting a Enviably Desirable Midi-Length Snap-front Shirt dress and a Outfit consisting of a Chambray Polo and wide leg Pants was a most Innovative variation on the Fabrication. There was even a Men's Suit cut from the fabric that made me Drool! Baptista showed Immense Confidence with this collection and each new Lacoste Presentation is showing him more and more assured with the Codes of the house and ever more ready to Innovate in New and Exciting directions. It's an exciting course he's following and seems certain to produce more winners such as this collection!





That's All.





Bye4Now!