Wednesday, December 24, 2014

Proenza Schouler.

Weds. 09/10/2014.






Some Nice jackets. A few Good Dresses. Some Exquisitely tailored Coats and Blazers... Those elements saved Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez's Proenza Schouler collection from being a Total Waste time of everyone involved. Not that much of the rest of their Spring 2015 collection wasn't exactly just that, A Waste of good time, this collection just happened to be less Fraught with Detestable clothes. 

Spring produced some excellent pieces from McCullough and Hernandez, some Perforated Leather "Shirt" Dresses in Burnt Orange, Black and White with fluid skirts were Highly Covetous and Quite Fascinating, while a Pinpoint Precise Tailored Coat and Blazer in blocks of Navy Prince-Of-Wales check and Black were Astoundingly Perfect and could be some of the best pieces of the entire season. Also of Note, A Bias plaid Shift dress that was Bold and Plain all in the same breath and Startlingly Chic! 

As things go, it wasn't the worse collection from the Proenza Schouler duo, it had many pieces that were Powerfully Strong and Easily Wearable, Though McCullough and Hernandez's worse tendencies got in the way, as they always do, and marred the collection in Innumerable ways, Again, As always. The Silver Lining, the pieces that did work, Worked Awfully well, and that, in the end, is what counts! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Anna Sui.

Weds. 09/10/2014.






Anna Sui may know her customer and her own aesthetic very well, And surely, She does. That, however, does not mean, Though, that her collections are not almost comically redundant to the point of pointlessness... For they Are! Being a Michigan Native, I am somewhat bound to be her Cheerleader, Though that does not mean that I will just turn a Blind Eye and throw Accolades her way when, Sadly, we have ALL Seen this iteration of Fashion from Sui. Perhaps, One (or Ten) Too many times. 

This, Admittedly, is Sui's Wheelhouse, One that an observer would wish she was less familiar with and Ensconced in. Sui would be do herself a world of Good to move beyond this Hippie, Trippy, 60's Rock 'N' Roll vibe that seems to run like a thread through all her collections. This collection was more inflected by those ideas than usual. Citing Anita Pallenberg, Keith Richards, George Harrison and Psychedelic Poster artist Nigel Weymouth... All this swirled about in a Haze (Purple, Perhaps?) of Denim and Flowers and Granny Cardigans and pretty much every Rote Trope known to Anna Sui. 

To be honest, It was hard to like this collection. And, I didn't. It was Atavistic, Costume-y and really completely Out of Sync. This doesn't calm my adoration for Ms. Sui. But this collection Honestly, failed to impress me in any way. If I was hard pressed to pick out some outfits that did move me... I'd just be hard pressed, I really Couldn't do anything resembling favouring any outfit in this show. 

Sui needs to move beyond this Boho/Hippy/Grunge/Rock 'N' Roller vibe that plagues all of her collections, Hitting the Refresh Button on her Aesthetic and trying something new might do her a World of Good. As it stands now, The Song Remains The Same. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Reed Krakoff.

Weds. 09/10/2014.







Reed Krakoff has never met an Asymmetric hemline that he didn't Love. And this passionate Love will be his Downfall, For he made some Perfectly Delightful pieces for Spring 2015 but couldn't stop himself from fussing with Asymmetry, and Paneling, and Insets, and Cutouts, and SO much more that the definitive idea of his clothes were hopelessly obscured by all these Extraneous attractions. 

Krakoff is insistent upon Merging Athletic sportiness with Luxe Sportswear, Here perhaps for Spring was the best Synthesis of that idea, in some outfits, it was his best work yet. Then, on the Other Hand, Krakoff smashed so many ideas into one outfit that the individual pieces of each outfit were fighting each other for Supremacy and it all came to a Stalemate. Yet, within saying and admitting all those things, It's Nigh Impossible to not have some Visceral reaction to these clothes that generally borders on the Obsessively Enamoured. I can't Hate these pieces because they are so Damn secure in their P.O.V That you begin to be swayed by their Cockiness and Attitude. 

There were pieces that failed to measure up to others, and in this collection those pieces seemed to account for the larger half of the outfits than the ones that did reach the Zenith. But the pieces that did... They Rocked Hard! Take the DEEP Caramel Leather and Leather Mesh coat outlined in Black worn with an Asymmetric hem Toffee Leather skirt, For Instance? It was Divinely Luxurious, Tough and Chic all at the same moment. Or, Perhaps, the White and Toffee Moto jacket with the Ragged Hem Black Leather skirt... Stunning. 

There were more great offerings, A Fabulous White Net Mesh T-shirt and Draped Skirt ensemble was a Major winner, as was a Caramel Mesh Leather Zip-Front short sleeve Blouson over a Paneled Mesh Leather and Leather Skirt. It was the end where things unraveled and the collection lost focus and steam. Otherwise, Job Well Done. 






That's All.





Bye4Now!

Elizabeth And James.

Weds. 09/10/2014.






After a Phenomenal The Row showing, Mary-Kate and Ashely Olsen seemed to have run out of ideas, because their Elizabeth and James collection was particularly weak and uninspiring and Far too on the Junior Side of Contempo! There were some fresh and exciting pieces, but on the whole, it looked Tween-y.

Being inspired by L.A. and Beach-y Surf culture because they have been spending more time in Cali after opening their store there, did nothing to elevate the clothes... A White shirt with a Softly flared White Net skirt was fresh and Pretty, as were a pair of Sash waisted Sleeveless Jumpsuits with cropped pant legs in Navy and White. However, that they were simply the same item in different colours failed to impress and was actually quite amateurish!

This tendency to repeat outfits in opposing colours always is a sign that a Designer is falling back on the familiar and was at a loss of inspiration. This collection was the picture of that idea and was not the best, by any means, of what the prodigious talents that the Olsen Twins are, Have to offer! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Hugo Boss.

Weds. 09/10/2014.





Hugo Boss.

Graphic. Sexy. Sharp. Sensual. Bold. Those were the Watchwords of the Striking Spring 2015 Hugo Boss Collection. Jason Wu got off to a Inauspicious and Rocky Start at Hugo Boss. It was Inelegant, Awkward, Unflattering. But here, This afternoon, Wu hit the ground Running, Fast! A Sleek Sheath of a Dress to open, Striped in Dizzying Asymmetric lines made a Chic and Minimal statement but also was Strong.

Not that this collection was Faultless, just less faulted than Fall. The Scalpel sharp coat that followed the opening look was also Winning raves, and the effortlessly elegant Sensuality of a V-Neck sheer Ribbed top paired with a Skirt with a Plisse pleated sheer overlay was Fetching to the Nth Degree! This Overlaying of Plisse pleats was one of the things that particularly got out of hand in this exhibition... At times it looked Exquisite, Take Leila Nda's Contoured Sleek dress in Black, Wickedly Sexy and Spot on, but when done on the trio of dresses in Sky Blue, White and Lemon Yellow all over white underlayers, It had a Queasy making feeling. Not good,

What was good...??? A Crystal encrusted sleeveless top in Black with Trousers that was Totally Magnificent and a Louche Narciso-like mix of the Tailored and the Relaxed. A Boxy Bonded Leather suit with a Cropped Trench jacket that was Repeated later in a slightly less Boxy style, but both were Boldly Apt for the season. Also in evidence, A Winning Trench that was practically Unembellished, save for the Two button up top. Minimal in it's most Rigourous form!

Ending with a Bang with some Deliciously Beaded dresses, Most Notable, a Sinuous Sheath in an Elaborately Intricate Colour Block pattern in Pastel tones on Kinga Rajzak, brought the show to a Convincing and Satisfying close. From this outing, the future is looking good for Wu at the House of Hugo.





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Monday, December 22, 2014

Jeremy Scott.

Weds. 09/10/2014.






After the Bombastic, Runaway train that was the Success of Jeremy Scott's debut at Moschino, It's only natural that his own Label for the next season would be Littered with major Model faces and Celebrity (Hello, Miley!) onlookers waiting for their Next Selfie/Instagram/Hashtag moment. That Scott for his Spring 2015 Eponymous label with somewhat scale things back to a relatable degree was the Ultimate in being the Contrarian! It's his inability to conform and do the expected that is his strong suit and something of his cross to bear. 

In this collection, it perhaps worked to his Advantage. It was a simpler and less Jokey collection than usual and felt more grounded and wearable. The trickery was cut down to a minimum, even though the offering was a Vibrant and Exuberant as per usual. Scott was aping the Style of the young things at those Muddy, Outdoor music festivals like Coachella or Glastonbury or Lollapalooza and such... it also echoed that (In)Famous Marc Jacobs/Perry Ellis Grunge Collection of so many years ago in it's intention. 

Full of Vibrant, Psychedelic, Hallucinogenic prints, from a Shrek Print to a Eye-Spinning Lame Tie-Dye print and Much more, Scott had Cheeky fun with these and his signature Word game Prints... since he was keeping it more simple, it was the simplest outfits that stood out the Most and Best... Lais Ribeiro in a Pumpkin Orange bomber and Bra top with a Sliver of a Black skirt, Reinforcing the Halloween idea insinuated by some Jack-O'Lantern Printed Sweaters elsewhere in the show, Or a "Shrek" Print dress with a Sheer Lame Anorak in a Swirling Tie-Dye print on Herieth Paul. 

Scott is a Mix-Master and he tamed his more rebellious ideas for something that for him, would qualify as Tasteful... Almost. That he did an about face and whereas the expected was for him to go Whole Hog after all the Accolades from Moschino, he actually shocked more by reining in his more "Look-At-Me" Tendencies and focusing on Fun, Giddy Fashion with a Minimum of "Fuck You" Attitude. It was almost as if Jeremy Scott was trying to be Mature! Well... We all have to Grow Up Sometime! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Delpozo

Weds. 09/10/2014.






Josep Font has in one since, Single-Handedly Reinvented the idea of Couture. His Delpozo Collections are as close to Haute Couture without the Haute as one could possibly Envision... Extraordinarily Luxe Materials, Precision and Elaborate cuts, Extreme Creativity, Complex Embroidery and Embellishment. All present and accounted for! Spring 2015 was no less a Victory on all these fronts than before.

In his short time at Delpozo, Font has Quickly Re-Positioned this label at the forefront of the American and International Fashion. With Fascinating and Directional fashion like this being seen today, He'll keep it there. Citing Artist Josef Albers and his Vibrant and Virtuoso, if not sometimes Jarring colour sense, Font splashed bright colours all over his Exquisitely Haute Sportswear, which elevated it beyond the commonplace. Volume was another aspect of this collection that separated it from the Throng... and there was Plenty of experiments in Volume, from a pair of Super Wide Lawn Green Pallazzo pants with a cropped White top with Midnight Blue turn-back short sleeves, To a Corn Yellow Flared Coat with a pair of White flared Bermuda shorts.

On the Embellished front... a Tabard coat the colour of Lobster Bisque, with Coral and Pink beading at the Chest to a GORGEOUS Couture Gown of Dawn Beige Hammered Silk overlayed with Embroidered Lace at the Bodice and to the Thigh that could have floated down any Runway in Paris during Couture week. Along the way, Font Scrolled and Rolled and Folded Fabrics in the most Disarming ways creating Strange and Wonderful Arcs and Flourishes on his Dresses and Coats that injected even more of the Artiste's Hand into the clothes and gave us a number of Gasp-Clutch-The-Pearls Moments.

This may not have had the Impact of his Breakthrough Collection last Spring, but it was a Powerful move forward for the label and an Incredible exploration of Font's Talent and Brilliance. Delpozo is going to make people stand up and take Notice of Josep Font, This collection is another Cog in the Machine that is Moving towards Superstardom!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Friday, December 19, 2014

Rachel Zoe.

Weds. 09/10/2014.






Bohemian Jet-Set Glam is Rachel Zoe's Wheelhouse. That she is redefining what that means and doing a Wonderful job of it is to be applauded. Spring 2015 shows an Evolution of Zoe's 70's Gypsy/Bohemian Stevie Nicks-ish style being tempered with a New Found Crispness and Luxe. Zoe relied less on her usual tropes and streamlined things into something more Relevant to now. It worked Very Well.

A Boho Caftan started the looks off with a Typical Zoe trope, as did the YSL/Bianca Jagger/Studio 54 looking Tuxedo Jumpsuit that while a Zoe Staple, this season was more Impactful and Spectacular than Usual. A White Grecian Goddess Chiton gown with Chain detailing was Absurdly Glamourous and Stunning. And a White/Black Zebra stripe gown was given a bit of Edge and Modernity with a Black Leather Biker Jacket thrown atop it. 

Zoe produced the best collection of her career so far, I have always had faith in her design talents and been impressed from the beginning, this just proves my Faith was Well Founded. Zoe has a Very Distinct and Clear style and Vision of her Style, She is Honing that idea as well as refreshing it in a Strong, Directional Way! I, For one, can't wait to see what awaits us in future collections!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Michael Kors

Weds. 09/10/2014.





Michael Kors.

There was a Moment, very early in the Spring 2015 Michael Kors show, when we knew Dorothy wasn't in Kansas Anymore! The first Salvo of All White outfits were Prototypical Michael Kors. Beautiful as all Hell, Yes, But not exactly revolutionary, Although Malaika Firth did again get the Absolutely Cutest White Lace dress as she did the day previous in the Oscar show. But when Exit No. 5 strutted down the runway on Maartje Verhoef, The whole look of the collection, Shifted.

A simple White Shirt it may have been on top, but the little Yellow Flowers embroidered all over the the Brief, Swingy Skirt... was Joy Encapsulated! Kors explored a new, somewhat heretofore unseen side of himself with this Jardin Influenced Spring collection. This was one of Kors' most Exquisitely Rendered and Accomplished collections in recent Memory. It was a Breath of Pure Happiness and Gaiety! From that point on, Kors Traversed a relentlessly Upbeat Path that renewed one's faith in the Power of Clothes to Uplift and Enliven the life of the wearer!

Kors' Sunny Disposition was the Mirror that this collection looked into, He himself is all Positivity and Joviality, Even in the Face of adversity, And this collection was what finally looked like his Sartorial twin. Lest we forget, though, Kors is resolutely Uptown, and his woman expects nothing less than an Urban, Upscale take on all these Flowers Strewn about the Michael Kors Runway. As much as she might want to smile, she also wants to look Strong, Rich and Powerful... Kors hit all those buttons with Effortless ease!

As with any Michael Kors collection, There was an abundance of pieces to choose from to Highlight, one suffered from a wealth of choices to pick amongst. It was truly being spoiled for choice. All the Michael Kors Hallmarks where there to marvel at, in Fresh, New Configurations, Like the Yolk Yellow Fisherman's coat and cuffed Dark Denim Jeans that was Exhilaratingly Vibrant. Try, Perhaps, the Simple/Luxe Dichotomy of a Pristine Long White Tee worn with a Swirling Skirt of Tulle lavishly embroidered with White Sequin flowers that was just Carefree and Easy! Also as Carefree, A Green Gingham Sundress on Sasha Luss that was Springtime Defined in One piece!

More, You Say? Well, of course. Mariana Santana in a Black T-Shirt dress that was Highlighted with Naive and Sprightly Bronze 3-D Flowers that had an Artisanal, Handmade quality to them, while a Sash Waisted Plaid Sundress on Leila Nda could work in the Office as much as in the Country! What about the Mod-ish Chic of the Dark Denim Balmaccan That was an ABSOLUTE Necessity piece for next Spring? Perchance, The Black Wrap top and Plaid Clam Diggers are more the Ideal Summer Outfit?

Of the Multiple Floral pieces to choose from, A Full skirted Dance Dress on Kati Nescher in Ink Blue with Giant Magenta Flowers was Especially Gorgeous as was a Navy version with Wisteria Flower embroidery. Or, The Couture worthy Floral print dress on Josephine Le Tutour in a Vibrant shade of Bougainvillea Pink on White, Blissful!

Kors proved beyond any shadow of doubt that his Powers of Design are Masterful on a whole other level. He is the Reigning King of New York Fashion. With The sad Passing of Oscar De La Renta, One can see Michael Kors being the American Ambassador of Luxurious, Uptown Fashion that brings Dreams to life for the women of the World. Not as if anyone could ever Replace Oscar, No, Not in a Billion Years, But as in any circumstance, there is an Inevitable Changing of the Guard... Kors is Poised to be that Change and Carrier of that Mantle, And I, For one, couldn't Possibly envision any one Better suited to the Job!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, December 18, 2014

Narciso Rodriguez.

Tues. 09/09/2014.





Narciso Rodriguez.

While it wasn't as Strong a Presentation as has been usual for Narciso Rodriguez, Spring 2015 had it's moments. Narciso is a Modernist and Minimalist at the same time. He, in the last couple seasons, has shown a Startling amount of Ingenuity and Inventiveness in his collections that made them not only Desirable, But Covetous and as well as Intellectually Stimulating.

While there was something Inherently Graphic about Rodriguez's collection it was also Strongly Athletic. Lean, Spare and Fluid silhouettes predominated. Lithe, Leggy pants proved that Rodriguez is a Master of Flattering cut, but his cut with the dresses and tops this season left a bit to be desired. His attention that was lavished on the pants (and equally the Fabulous Outerwear, I.E. Jackets, Coats, Vests...) would have serviced the dresses and skirts incredibly. Not all was lost in the Dress section, some Beaded numbers, a Trio of dresses, in Black, Pitch Dark Navy and White with Squiggles of Embroidery had Great movement and flattered the form.

Generally, Though, the dresses Rodriguez focused on looked Haphazard, as if they were not thought through completely and failed to Cohere. A Finale passage of beaded dresses was Strangely Ethereal but Grounded and closed the show on a Strong note. Narciso continues to move forward with His intellectual, artistic approach to Modern Sportswear and his experiments are often Intriguing and Satisfying. This outing however, didn't manage to mesh the two halves, Art and Commerce, into a convincing whole.





That's All.





Bye4Now!







Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Oscar De La Renta.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






It is not a remote possibility to write this review without Acknowledging the Extraordinary loss to not only the Fashion World, But the World of Art, Beauty, Refinement, Class, The world in total. The loss of a True Gentleman. The Painfully sad death of Oscar De La Renta. Spring 2015 would prove to be his Last collection. The last of his Extensive career in producing Beauty, Glamour, And Exquisiteness. 

It would be a blemish to Oscar's Memory to linger on the sadness of his passing, he'd be the first to chastise such a thing. He would want his work to be the only thing that was taken into account, Nostalgia or Wistfulness would be, frankly, Insulting. So, as much as it would be fitting to tinge this review with the Colour of Admiration... The clothes should be the only Context being judged.

And what EXQUISITE Clothes they were! Spring 2015 was just another in the Long, LONG Line of Masterfully Beautiful collections that De La Renta seemingly produced with the Facility of a Master Magician! This Spring offering was full of Pastel shades, Sunny Florals and the essence of Summer, Gingham, which was everywhere here and looked more Sophisticate and Equally, more Youthful than any collection displaying it this season (Mayhaps, Only DVF gave a more Fresh view, but it's close!) 

The surprising key to this collection was that Oscar, In his way, Simplified things almost to the point of Distillation. He Squeezed his ideas so he produced only the clothes of Utmost Necessity! It made for a Flawless Presentation. Inject this with an unhurried approach, an almost Glacial ease, and the clothes resonated even more so. These were clothes that gave a Woman a Liquidity and Grace while keeping them looking Warrior Strong in equal Measure.

From the opening Pink Gingham coat and Brief Lace skirt combo that was a Joyous One-Two Punch, to the Simplistic Vibrance of a Sky Blue Gingham Ballet neck top and Shorts. Try, Perhaps, the Black speckled White Tweed Bolero jacket and dress combo with invert pleat front also, for a look of Pure Stylish Sophistication! Oscar showed himself to be a Modern Mix Master of Couture proportion with the Elegant and Flirty combo of a Pencil striped sequined Tee with Layers of Ostrich feathers at the hem worn casually over a pair of trim Black Trousers. 

This was but a Sampling of the Majesty on display, from Lavishly Embroidered Thistledown light Furs slipped over Little Nothing Lace Dresses... to a Pair of White Organdy Bubble dresses with Spring Flower embroidery!  A Parchment Linen Tweed suit with a Cropped jacket that had a Pleated Lace back was of Special note, as was a Black and White Full-Skirted Hi-Lo dress with Broderie Anglaise hem... A Stem Green Strapless number with a Dropped Waist and full skirt lavished with Pink Floral embroidery... 

Since this was such a Bumper Crop of Finery for the house a Few more Wonders... The most Delightfully Pretty White Lace Dress on Malaika Firth to stroll down the Runway, or the Exquisite Sequined and Feathered Dance Dress on Leila Nda that matched the Aforementioned Pencil striped top and pants Ensemble... And the most Breathtaking of all... On Alana Zimmer, A Strapless Ocean Blue Masterpiece in Satin Twill with Silver floral embroidery and Hi-Lo hemline was a Jaw-Dropper of Epic Proportion!

It is, in a way, Deeply Heartbreaking and Wonderfully Joyous, that right up until the end, Oscar was Still... OSCAR! He produced a collection of Such prodigious Breadth and Magnitude for Spring that, Had it been Planned as a Fare Thee Well collection, it would have been a Glorious Testament to His Genius, His Craft, His Brilliance! As it was, For Oscar, it was Simply, Business as usual. The Business of making Every Woman, Beautiful. Now, Could there be any Finer a Remembrance for Oscar De La Renta, Than That?




Thank You, Mr. De La Renta. Thank You From The Bottom Of My Heart.



R.I.P- Oscar Aristides Renta Fiallo (Oscar De La Renta) July 22, 1932-October 20, 2014.



You will be FOREVER Missed!





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Marc By Marc Jacobs.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






An intriguing dichotomy played out at the Spring 2015 Marc By Marc Jacobs collection now under the design of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier. A disparity between some Wickedly cool pieces and some Downright Silly pieces that looked very much Idiotic. This played out in some great Coats and Jackets and some Sugary Crinkly Silk pieces that had a Juvenile edge to them that was strangely appealing.

But on the other side of the equation... The Ugliest Pants seen in a long while, Absurdly Draped skirts and dresses and a Finale of the most Discombobulating and Freakishly Unhinged Patchwork dresses that pointedly redefined the word Atrocious! It's not of any advantage to this review to pick apart each section, A Great White Pantsuit, A Fun Polka Dot Latex Bolero, A Chic White Utility coat, standout pieces they were, but surmounted by the Tricked Out, Overwrought pieces that proliferated this collection... They didn't really do anything other than point out in the Sharpest Relief how bad the bad pieces were. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Pamella Roland.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






And Now, For our Moment of Zen. Pamella Roland took flight for Spring 2015 with an Inspiration culled from a Japanese Zen garden and let it wing her to one of her Strongest and Best collections in some time. I have a Soft spot for Ms. Roland (as well as one Ms. Tracy Reese and one Ms. Anna Sui) whom are all Michigan girls. Their collections always attract my scrutiny and when they are as good as this, My Illicit Praise! 

Everywhere one alighted their eye onto, they were rewarded with something Modern and Inspired. There was a Luxury element to everything, whether it was the Luxury of Restraint, or the Luxury of Elaborateness due to Beautiful, Richesse Fabrics and Extravagant Beading and Embroidery. A Super pale Blush Pink V-neck Mesh Lace dress with a flaring skirt was Minimal but not Innocuous as well as being Delightfully Pretty... Or a Dramatic Strapless Slate Blue Evening ensemble Evocatively printed with enlarged Sakura Blossoms that was untouched but for it's Gorgeous Fabric but was as Opulent as anything Glitzed up with Embroidery. 

On the Bedazzled side... A White stunner with Swirls of beading in Silver and White and a Flying skirt of pieces of Chiffon was Quietly Glitzy but still got the message across fully, While a Strapless Glass like Satin Organza Ballgown embellished with Silvery Multicolour Brocade like patches of Flowers was Regally Exquisite. Also of note, a Glassy, Shiny, Patterned material that looked like Water rippling in motion was a STUNNING Fabric that DeVos used Judiciously in two dresses, one Short, one Long, that had me wishing for another appearance! 

Pamella DeVos Hit this one out of the Park, In some ways, And this is a Compliment, it had the feeling of Giorgio Armani, in all the best ways. This was an Inventive and Smashing collection for the house of Pamella Roland. One of her best, In Fact. With Tracy Reese's OUTSTANDING Collection and Ms. DeVos' Stunning showing, Michigan seems to having a Moment with it's designers whipping up some Fantastic collections. Hopefully, This is a Trend that is just beginning to start to Peak! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Naeem Khan.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






Sportswear? At Naeem Khan? Not just Sportswear but "SPORT" Wear, Athletic styles wound their way through this Super Glamourous collection giving a Fresh, Spirited energy to the collection, even though in the end it was still Business as Usual. From Shimmering Bias-Cut Satin columns, to Lavishly Sequined stunners and Poufy Ballgowns, all of Khan's Bases were covered from Front to Back.

That didn't stop the Athletic moments from wonderfully welcome. Take the two Short dresses early in the Edit that were Colourfully and Elaborately Beaded and Sequined with little Black collars that looked like they were Deluxe T-Shirts or Polos. Definitely a Breath of fresh air. Or the Richly Embroidered pullovers paired with "Sweat" Pants.

Khan's collection did run on a bit on the excessive side with it's edit and could have been whittled down by a good dozen outfits, but it has to be given to Khan for being so Prodigious with his Lineup. The Stunners were many in this Cavalcade of Beauty, But those Slinks of Satin, in their Pure, Untouched state, were Clearly the ones giving the Heart Palpitations. From a Goldenrod Yellow version to the Scarlet Red asymmetric version. The best was an Ice Blue Column on Betty Adewole that stole the Show!

It was a Smashing Collection for Khan, he energized his Repertoire with new ideas that worked quite ingeniously in with the Standbys of Glam Luxe that people come to Khan For. Innovation is never a bad thing, and when one can Integrate that into the fabric of one's House Signature... It's all the more reason to Celebrate! Pop That Cork, Naeem!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, December 15, 2014

Diesel Black Gold.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






KISS. Keep. It. Simple. Stupid! Sometimes this refrain is the most Salient logic that can be repeated, Mantra-Like, for anyone at anything (Frank Gehry, Are you Listening out there?) at most times! Andreas Melbostad stuck to that principle for his Spring 2015 Diesel Black Gold collection. It reaped him Spectacular benefits, Studs, Stars, Leather, Denim, Crop Tops, Short Skirts... If you mess up that formula, God Help You! 

It was these simple things that propelled the Diesel Black Gold show light years ahead, proving that Simple things done well and done right are infinitely more stylish than Overreaching fashion that only intrigues the imagination. In that Vein of reasoning, Melbostad also did not complicate things with too much colour, sticking mainly to Black, with insertions off White, Red, Chambray Blue and Cement Grey. This kept everything Clear throughout so that there was no Deviation of the Theme at hand. 

Dresses cut out of Leather limned the body and were accented with either Tiny Nail head studs of larger, flatter ones conveyed a toughened up Rockabilly Chic while Trim pants and Swingy dresses that were subtly A-Lined or fuller in the skirt. The best pieces were when Melbostad hit that Sweet spot of Tough, Biker Chic crossed with Rocker Chic, A Black Zip-Front studded jacket was Clean, Yet Ornamental and paired with a Saucy skirt decorated with Studs and Stars. Also of note, A Neat Cropped BlackTuxedo Bolero jacket with a Leggy Black leather Pencil skirt with micro Nail head studs on the sides. 

Melbostad is deeply in his groove Chez Diesel, as evidenced by this Excellent collection. All one can possibly ask of him in the future is... More, Please! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Rodarte.

Tues. 09/09/2014.





Rodarte.

Oh, You Mulleavy Girls... You crafted such Magic for Fall 2014... where did that all evaporate to for Spring 2015??? Another Meaningless, Aimless, Ambling, Shambolic Catastrophe that looked like the models were Besequined Mermaids trapped in and being strangled to death by Fishing Nets... Appalling. 

What could have been pretty and pretty fabulous, it had the makings to be so, ended up Tortured, Overwrought, Underexecuted and to put the finest point on it... Dismally Ugly! The Rodarte label is always seeming as if it is in search of an Identity and the ensuing crisis of such an endeavour is one that cripples the senses with Convoluted Experiments. This was one of those Convolutions.

Esoterically, (as if the Girls have ever been Exoteric) the sisters took inspiration from observing Tide Pools... which would owe to all the Seaweed-y, Fishing Net Dishevelment and Aquatic palette of Murky Blues, Greys and Greens... then the Heaviness of the Barn Jackets that were Legion in the show... Why? What place had they in this exercise? Dumb and Dumbfounding! Especially unbalanced when paired with wispy net dresses or skirts. Totally Stupid! Although that is nothing new for Laura and Kate, Fashion Wise.

A few of the Finale Evening gowns were quite pretty and had the rest of the collection been less Tragically Horrifying, might have saved the collection, as it lay, they were like a few Diamonds in a Elephant Dung heap! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Vera Wang.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






No! Just NO, Vera Wang. This Will NOT Do. Spring 2015 was perhaps the Most Hideously Ugly collection I have seen in Ages. It was... Mystifying! Even More so, It was Dumbfoundingly Horrible. Nothing here came together to create anything other than Bleak, Dour, Dismayingly Sad clothes. Wang showed a Joyless, Apocalyptic, Dystopian view of fashion that had all the Fun and Beauty drained out of it like it had been prepared for Embalming. 

How Wang comprised this Malignancy of fashion Baffles the mind. At every turn, Here, There, Everywhere, virtually, was Nonsense. The Proportions of many items made the Models look Wide and Thick, Or they were adorned with Ruffles that made them look Lumpen and Overly Complicated. Also, the clothes were So short as to be Harlot-like and Whorish, even in their Extravagant Fabrics and Gorgeous crystal embroideries which fell as flat as a Corpse on the Tragic dresses they were surmounted upon. There was just so much that Bewildered the imagination that it sank into Despair So fully and completely that it would have been Sad had it not been so Willfully Obstinate and Convinced of it's own Brilliance! 

The finale Parade of gowns were simply Awful and filled with such Abject Dread they looked funereal, The ONLY positive moment was a series of Saucily Short Black dresses with Tone-on-Tone Embroidery at the bust and hem that even though they were Scandalously short, could also be interpreted off the runway by a Savvy Fashionista into something Viable. Otherwise... Throw this garbage in the trash and be gone with it. Wang hit a New low with this collection and seems to keep outdoing herself in finding and even lower low to mine for Distractingly AWFUL Clothes. It's not a Pretty affair. And it doesn't look like it's going to get any prettier any time too soon! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Badgley Mischka.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






Mark Badgley and James Mischka Should really do more Day wear! They are especially Keen and Apt at it. Witness in their Spring 2015 Collection the Textured White dress with Elbow length Flared Sleeves and Enviable Drape on the body... The Luminous Buff coloured Twin set worn with that same textured fabric Skirt in a flippy, girlish swirl of fabric. Or the Glistening Ice Blue Wrap Dress... Heavenly.

Pair that up with their Penchant for Entrancing Evening gowns and you have a beauty of a collection that did not disappoint. The evening gowns... Typically, Were Stunning. Too many cases of Glamourously Spectacular Excess abounded to pick out any number of Glories to mention specifically... But a Beaded and Lace encrusted Lilac Organza Number worn completely sheer in the Skirt was Daring, Racy and a Little Dangerous for the Duo and was one of the best pieces that they have ever designed.

So, In conclusion... As Beautiful as Ever. And with this new found strength in Day wear, Badgley Mischka Might be headed for a Stronger than Imagined 2 1/2 Act! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

J. Crew.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






You can count on Jenna Lyons and Tom Mora to come up with some Eclectic Fashion come NYFW. Lyons Herself is one Stylishly Eclectic kind of lady... and Mora, more often than not, I am sure, Looks to her to inspire himself. Lyons is somewhat the walking template of the J. Crew Woman. Spring 2015 was filled with pieces that are going to keep the J. Crew masses Salivating for days, But looking at the "Fashion" of their Presentation Tuesday... It was a bit of a letdown. Something in this outing just didn't... CLICK, as it usually does. 

Maybe it was all that Denim... It wasn't particularly Exciting. Atop that, some of the Kooky juxtapositions looked more Awkward than Eccentric. But those were the smallest portion of the show. Some great pieces, The Tobacco Drawstring waist Anorak was Speaking Style, Loud and Clear, as was an Ensemble consisting of an Ecru Berber style print Topper worn over the most Vivid shade of Marine Blue pants. A Denim and Stripe print A-Line Shirt/Coat was perhaps one of the most Covetous pieces of the season. 

It was hard to put one finger on exactly why this showing didn't rise to the same level that previous collections have, but it just didn't cohere like usual. There were pieces that were as Desirable as usual but, again, all the pieces didn't fall into place. That's a Difficult spot to occupy, not being Bad enough to be Awful and not being GOOD Enough to be Great. A Fashion Catch-22, of sorts! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tory Burch.

Tues. 09/09/2014.






It's very hard not to look at a Tory Burch collection and not Smile. So full of Optimism and Vibrance and Positivity that to not smile would be an affront to seemingly Mother Nature herself. Bedecked in the Sunny, Spicy colours of Southern France but not so much the Cote d'Azur (which has been running around as inspiration quite a bit) this was the Southern France of Picasso and his Lover, Francoise Gilot. 

If one couldn't Feel the Sunny side of France in the Yolk-y Goodness of the opening Suit in a Relaxing shade of Egg Yolk Yellow and White, Then one might just be Help And Hopeless! From that point forward was an endless parade of Happy, Upbeat pieces influenced by Vallauris in Southeastern France where Picasso and his Lover, Gilot, Worked and Loved and gave the world Paloma. 

This was not perhaps, Burch's most Invigorating collection, being a bit weaker than the last two very strong shows, but what it lacked in Pow, it made up for in the most Deliciously Desirable and Luscious clothes. These clothes breathed with an Amazing Easiness and Subdued Sensuality. They were certainly more Youthful and Vivacious than per usual, The most fun fact, was the more Advanced Techniques on display, as in the Printed Basketweave Leather in Vibrant tones, as well as the Engineered Broderie Anglaise that looked more African than French.

To Point out some pieces that elevated themselves above the rest... A White Silk sleeveless dress with a Wood Grain print Band across the midriff in boldly bright Cobalt, or perhaps the Linen coat Splashed across the front with Lavish crystal embroidery or the Parchement softly Boxy Jacquard coat overembroidered in Brown Thread that won the show! Burch is one of the Power Players in Global Fashion. With this show, she stands to continue holding such a position for a long while to come. It had the definite take of a American Abroad, and will appeal to not only the Fashion Elite, but to the Everyday Woman. That right there is pretty much a formula for success! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!





Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Rag & Bone.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






As Rag & Bone Shows go, This was entirely less Awful than usual. It wasn't, Still, Thrilling, but it was Easier to digest and didn't look like a Junkyard mess as previous outings have been. I don't particularly get WHY Rag & Bone's David Neville and Marcus Wainwright get the lavish praise Slathered all over them like a Nubile island lass gets Suntan Lotion glazed all over, it escapes me when they consistently produce collections that are either Mediocre (Such as this) or just downright Hideous (Need we even Mention that Atrocity that was Spring 2014??) 

The same problem extends to The Mulleavy Sisters at Rodarte and the ENORMOUSLY Overhyped and Talentless Dynamic Duo of Hernandez and McCulloch at Proenza Schoueler! They are all, Most times HORRID at what they do but they have the Be-Sunglassed blessing of the High Priestess Anna so, No One DARE Speak Ill of her Precious Babies! I... DARE! 

There's not a really specific reason to go on about the less than Stellar pieces, There weren't too many BAD pieces, more just... Basic. The few pieces that did raise a pulse were very good... A Sheer Long Cardigan in White paired with Wide fluid pants also in White was Strangely Seductive and Sporty all at once while a Dark Chambray Zip front Poncho Was Insanely Desirable. 

Wainwright and Neville didn't strike the Mother Load with this outing, but it was filled with pieces that can add a refreshing bit of Sporty Chicness to the wardrobes of a Variety of Women, That the duo went back to their Sportish roots was most notably the best development. This collection by No Means was setting the World On Fire, Nor was it Mired in the Muck. It straddled somewhere in between Good and Really Good. Any more that any one could be looking for would have to be found Elsewhere. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Zac Posen.

Mon. 09/08/2014.





Zac Posen.

After his beyond Perfect Fall 2014 collection, one would have to auger that it would be a Insanely difficult task for Zac Posen to top that show afterwards. Only those who have the True Gift of Genius are Capable of that feat. Posen did not rise to the lofty heights that his Fall collection soared him to for Spring 2015, it was however Quite a Lovely Affair, even if some of the pieces suffered slightly from Taxing Overdesign.

Again, when adhering to the Basest of all Principles, Less IS More, All good things follow in that wake. When Posen let his simplest voice speak loudly, the rewards were far greater than when he tried to exaggerate that voice and speak in a more Eccentric dialect. Not that some of his Phantasmagorias of Architectural design weren't thrilling, it is just most times they appeared Stiff and Lifeless, as if just produced to garner Oohs and Aahs! He kept things honed in on the Simple Target by reducing everything to Solid blocks of Black, White or Red and never did any twain meet.

A Spectacular Lipstick Red suit on Grace Bol was Breathtaking while a Black version on Manon LeLoup was Equally Brilliant. Though a few too many of the Evening pieces were far too Maddeningly Excessive in their design and also were Stiff. Posen needs to learn to pare back more and go the road less ornate sometimes.

In the end, Posen put forth a Solid Effort with some Stunners on display for all to see. He just needs to get a little less carried away with it all and Reduce the gimmicks, For when he focuses on the Purity of his clothes, He can inject his Penchant for Dramatic design elements into them and they come out Golden. When he doesn't do as such... he's only mining Iron Sulfide.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Zero + Maria Cornejo.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






Insofar as Urban Bohemian goes, Maria Cornejo has that vibe down to a Science. Viewing her Spring 2015 collection, one got the immediate sense that she was aspiring to develop a New vocabulary of what Urban and Bohemian mean to her, and in the grandest scheme, her customer. This collection was far more Genteel and Gentle. It was a refreshing change of pace for the house and opened a world of possibilities for Cornejo to expand her Dialogue with her Customer.

Cornejo indulged in some soft sculpture that looked energetically Modern with out the Artistic Gravitas. The best pieces to exhibit this Patina of Sculpture were also dynamically easy to wear, A Curvy, Spongy Neoprene tunic top in White over Black drapey Trousers very early on was showing Immense ease coupled with Arty Allure. A Black trimmed White Neoprene coat a few outfits later was also showing Control of Volume and Fit and was as sharp and sleek, even in it's Generous Shape.

Cornejo played around with some Colour Blocking as well as a rather Optic print that she managed to finesse into not looking Garish. The Usual suspects of a Zero Maria Cornejo collection showed up in transformed Guises but retained enough of their DNA as to be recognizable. Maria Cornejo always Impresses, She never fails to Twist her signatures enough each season as to keep them Innovative and Renewed Afresh each go-round... This was just a new Page in the Current Chapter of an Engrossing Novel!





That's All.





Bye4Now!




Monday, December 8, 2014

Reem Acra.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






Run D.M.C said it best.... "Tricky, Tricky, Tricky!" Reem Acra's Unimpressively Tricky Spring 2015 collection was so Frankly... WRONG in certain places that it bordered on the Whorish side of Sexy instead of the Arousing side. Too much flesh was often on display and the way it was displayed was Wantonly Libidinous and, much to one's dismay, Cheap, looking. Surmount this with Deadly Awkward Cutouts and Prom like dresses and the whole thing fell as flat as a Crepe.

I would like to say there were some outfits that offered relief from the fray... sadly, I cannot. Some pieces So Scandalously left so much of the Torso exposed that it was hard to believe the model was wearing anything at all! Silly, Anemic colour Lame fabrics only added insult to already Massive injury. As did a Positively Confounding colour palette that veered from Crystalline shades to... BURGUNDY? Huh? 

The less said the better, I should think. It was a Failure. From Stem to Stern. Reem Acra is usually far better than this. But, Not today it would seem! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Alice + Olivia.

Mon. 09/08/2014.





Alice + Olivia.

Versailles is an easy place to be inspired by. How could one NOT be? Stacy Bendet's recent trip to Paris and Soujourn to the Heart-Wrenchingly Exquisite Palace was fodder for her pretty Spring 2015 collection. After Bendet's showing the question did beg asking and answering... You went to Versailles and this was all that you came up with for clothes inspired by the place? Bendet may need a Return Trip to Le Roi Soleil's Palace D'Or!

Typical of Bendet, there was an Emphasis on Evening with some sportier pieces strewn about to keep things from being too Sugary and Confectionery. The fact that much of the Sportier pieces looked liked dumbed down Cocktail or Evening clothes was not helping elevate this collection. There were some Solid and Gorgeous outfits in display, An Absolutely Jaw-Droppingly Gorgeous beaded and embroidered T-shirt dress in a Bronze-y/Pink shade was giving the onlooker palpitations, while a White combo of a V-neck Tank top and Wide fluid pants was as good as anything seen so far this season.

The best look though was a Mariniere Striped shirt paired with a Lavishly Floral printed swirling skirt that was the Perfect One-Two Punch of Sporty Elegance and Haute Extravagance! While much of the rest of the collection felt too Junior (a typical Quicksand trap that Bendet falls into) A good deal here was Impressively Attractive. One just might implore of Bendet to Hike up the Luxe and Taste level a bit more in the future, like in the Valentino-esque Black Ball skirt with a Delicate and Fragile White lace overskirt paired with a Beaded Tank. More pieces like that in her collections and she'll have found herself in a Much better Fashion Niche!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thom Browne.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






At times... the most Outrageous and Radical thing one can do is Something Conventional. Thom Browne's Spring 2015 collection would embody that notion pretty much completely. Do, however, realize that Thom Browne's version of Conventional is still pretty wacky, but anything remotely approaching such a banal idea as Convention for Browne is actually the very Zenith of Radical. 

The mere Idea that Browne would design as an Approachable collection such as this and do it with such Exuberant Zeal, would confound most had it been offered to them as an idea worth contemplation. But, And be aware that this was done in Browne's own Inimitably Kooky fashion, Approachable it was. The first thing that was apparent was that his Tailoring Skills are Phenomenal and his handling of colour as Masterful as the Great Yves or Mix-Masters Supreme Christian Lacroix and Emanuel Ungaro. That was the most Fearless aspect of this collection, Browne's Immersion into the world of Riotous colour.

Within the Tailoring Sphere, which as a Menswear designer was where Browne made his name, his hand was flawless... the opening Topcoats and Matched Pantsuits were Precisely Tailored and Brilliantly executed. They may have all been cut the same, but were achieved in the most Diverse array of styles... fabrics, colours and textures were different for pretty much each one. The most Exceptional of the bunch, A Black Tuxedo version Splashily embroidered with Colourful Daisies was as Surprising and Unexpected as it was Totally Exquisite! 

Browne segued into Cardigans and combinations of Skirts or Dresses underneath in virtually every colour combo imaginable, showed that essentially Uptown and equally British Setting of the Garden Party, which was something of the overarching Thema Con Variazione, off to Splendiferous effect. Prints ranged wide, from Glen Plaid to Psychedelic melting ripples, from Wallpaper Florals to Matisse/Miro style Abstractions Browne served it all up in a Dizzy display of the utmost Competence. 

This was a Virtuoso display by a Designer in the Full Flower of their Faculties and with an Audacious sense of Freedom giving a Vivacity and Brilliance to whatever his hand alighted upon. Browne showed with this collection he can turn on a Dime and still, with Prodigious Acumen, produce something Great and Impactive, Perhaps MORE SO, than anything he has done in the past. That alone is enough to make the heart flutter in Joyous Rapture. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Saturday, December 6, 2014

Donna Karan.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






Urban Street Art. It was a Stepping off point for Donna Karan and it bought a Eclectic and Electric sense of Immediacy to Karan's Spring 2015 Treatise. Was it a good thing... Well, Yes and No. Bringing a fresh take on the Donna Karan Vocabulary was a good thing, but in the end, the Street Graffiti Prints were Dizzyingly overwrought at times and Were far too Busy for the eye to comprehend in their Exuberant entirety. 

It also, in the most dedicated sense, made one Wantonly long for the days of Yore when Karan Seduced woman of the world with her Slinky, Sexy, Sensual Womanly Wares that were made for the Modern woman to function in the Urban Jungle like the Queen of the Steel and Concrete Savannah that is any Major City On the face of the Globe. When Karan was in her flowering prime... her clothes were like Fashion Crack, they were Irresistible and Exalted Womankind... this Schlock that she has been slopping forth in the last decade or so, Crunchy, Bohemian, Artistic, Hippie Moderne Crap has taken wing in her heart and seems to show no signs of Abating, which is Disheartening. 

Karan had a Field day with Fullness and Lingere styles, from Wraparound Bra tops to Wide floating skirts paired with more wrap tops that alluded to the Ballet Dancer motif that has been popping up hither and yon this season. This Ballet sensibility provided some of the more Romantic notions to the show that had a more Rigid spine because of all of the Graffiti prints and Molded to the Body Silhouettes. This collection, Actually, had a more Earthbound appeal of the City than Karan's more Esoteric recent Dalliances, and that made it more Tolerable, Because if felt like Karan was moving in her old Circles again.

Karan was at her best when she was Amping up the Sensuality by actually simplifying, a pair of Buttonless Shirtwaist dresses in Carmine and Spearmint green were Wonderfully easy, but secretly Sexy. Karan has also, always been the Mistress of Jersey, Rivaling the mastery of Halston himself, and this collection was no less a exhibition of her Protean Skills with the material. One in Black Chiffon Jersey on Joshephine Le Tutour was SCANDALOUSLY Erotic and Chic in an almost YSL kind of way, though Yves would never be so Brazen in Audacity! Another in Khaki was More Quietly Steamy, 

The collection was Effusively Feminine with a Strong Backbone running through it that made this collection one of the better goings for Karan. It was surprising in it's Artistic Viscerality and was showing Donna in her best mode. One can only hope this points her back in the direction of her Truest self, the Karan of the 90's where she commanded the attention of all the women of the world, Including the Bohemian Earth Mother clan she has seemed to focus her attentions on as of late. Even a Boho Hippy sometimes wants a Moment to be a Fierce, Take No Shit, Boss Ass Bitch. And That was Donna's Wheelhouse back in the day... Dipped in a Healthy Varnish of Sex, Too... Mind You...!





That's All.





Bye4Now! 

3.1 Phillip Lim.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






Usually, Phillip Lim is a go-to for Interesting, Fun, Urban Sportswear with a Flashy Edge of the Downtown for the Uptown consumer. With his Spring 2015 collection one has to wonder has Lim lost his Goddamn Mind. This collection, to be Perfectly Frank, was Fucking Hideous. I have no need to be Genteel or Exhibit any form of restraint in criticizing this Atrocious, Misguided, Misadventure! 

To retain my Clinical Objectivity, I will refrain from letting my baser instincts carry me away on the tide of Vitriol and sling insults left and right and simply will direct my commentary on the dispiriting clothing set forth from Lim's Addled imagination. These clothes were Laughable had they not been mired  in such dismaying confusion. The Squiggly hems and Cutouts and Asymmetry served the clothes in no other way than to infuriate one at the ludicrous idea that Lim thought that these pieces would be flattering on Anyone. Even the Models!

It would be a Colossal waste of time to Go into Lavish and Maximal detail on the low points, so I will let them speak for themselves and focus on the meager offerings that were of a less confused nature. A White Matelasse and Buff Suede shift dress bisected by thick lacing joining the two in a Curvilinear manner was Inspired and Shockingly refreshing. A fragile looking Pantsuit in Ecru was also currying favour... and that was about the size of the pieces that did not disappoint.

Lim's presentation was one of the most disturbingly, SHOCKINGLY Unfortunate. It had no place in the world of Modern Fashion and would only make anyone wearing the clothes look foolish in the Nth degree. Lim went to the Bad Place on this excursion, It was adrift on a sea of Incoherence and Bemusement... I am Agog!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Friday, December 5, 2014

Milly.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






I am an unrequited fan of Michelle Smith and her Label Milly. It's Fun, Quirky, Feminine and Strong with a Serious Experimental edge at times. But one has to wonder where in the Hell did all that go in her Astonishingly Bewildering Spring 2015 Collection. These clothes looked suited for Asylum patients more so than real women. In the mix, were surely Pieces that will translate into the Closets of Multiple styles of Women, Taken as a Whole... It bordered on the Comically Ridiculous. 

Indulging in Scores of insults or reams of type is useless... the collection was a Failure. Among the ruins were some Winning Outfits. A Cobalt Blue skirt with a Black Utility Jacket and a White tee was giving Relaxed Chic and Style whilst a long White Duster coat with Athletic inspired Black Pieces underneath was Sporty and Easy to wear. There were a few other outfits that managed to keep themselves above water, All the rest was Pointedly Awkward and sadly, Awful.

This came as a complete, and utterly distracting befuddlement to one's senses and made one question the good taste of Michelle Smith. She got carried away with the theme (Does it matter what it was?) and it became a Hopelessly Sloppy and Confused Disaster. Smith is better than this, by a Country Mile in fact, and one has to hope this was a just an Unfortunate Stumble.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Dennis Basso.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






It's rather Fascinating to see how Dennis Basso stalwartly swims against the Fashion Tide and resolutely does his own thing. In Basso's World, Women wear scads of Fur in the Springtime and live in Crocodile and Alligator Leather pieces with the ease of Jeans and Sweats. That's a Mighty rarefied world to inhabit. And it makes for some truly Magisterial fashion.

For his Spring 2015 found himself reminiscing about Monte Carlo and the Cote d'Azur in the late 60's when he vacationed there with his parents and the Devil May Care attitude of the French/European women of that time. The funny thing is, Basso isn't a Devil May Care kind of designer, he is a very Thoughtful, Considerate, Luxurious Designer, and even though those South of France Beauties in the 60's were Ornately Adorned, they were also Carelessly Ferocious. Basso is rarely Ferocious, but he is Insanely Glamourous.

This year, he started off slowly with a less than Powerful opening section, mainly in Alabaster. the clothes looking as luminous as Rare Carrera Marble, Basso of late has been trying to Youth-ify his clothes and make them look more attractive to a younger clientele, and while that goal was achieved, it wasn't completed in the most Flattering of ways. The opening outfits were surely fresher, but felt overworked in their effort to be more Edgy and Young. Again, simplifying things is the road to salvation and when Basso did obey this commandment, his clothes won raves easily, like a Lustrous Croc vest with Sleek pants and a Chinchilla collar was Deluxe and Sportif. His more overwrought offerings in this section in combos of thick Pelmets of Fur and Croc were particularly excessive looking.

By the time Ajak Deng sauntered down the Runway in strapless dress in Smoke Grey embroidered in Acid Yellow, things were back in their proper places. After this, Stunning Creation, the following dresses and gowns were all pretty much Superstar pieces, one after another. A strapless Masterpiece of a Ballgown on Leomie Anderson, Deeply and Heavily embroidered in Flowers in again, Smoke Grey, was dripping with Gravitas. Basso's Gilets in Combinations of Fur and Croc or Sheared Fur were Invigorating little additions that kept his focus on the house signature Narrowed through the entire collection, It was, however, a Smoke Grey coat, pieced together to look like a Moire Pattern worn over a little nothing of a Jumper that had the Most decidedly Youthful appeal!

Basso is steadfastly doing his own thing and isn't Kowtowing to what the Fashion pundits say is "Now" or "Today" he has his women, and yes they are Multitudes, who buy his delights from his Enchanted Garden with renewed Vigour every season. This season shows no sign that this trend will be abating in the near future!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Ohne Titel.

Mon. 09/08/2014.





Ohne Titel.

Alexa Adams and Flora Gills' Spring 2015 Ohne Titel collection was a Complicated Mishmash of uninspiring and lackluster fashion. It was a pretty unconvincing effort and an unfortunately Tedious affair. Sandwiching Mesh, Slashed-up Strips of fabric, Body Con, Surfer, Swimwear and Christ alone knows what else made for a Complex and Overwrought collection by any measure.

Throwing all this in one pot and stewing it together did not make for a Satisfying Fashion Soup, the good pieces that did surface were few and far between... A V-Neck Dress on Manon Leloup in Black, Marine Blue and White with a Cutout waist had Sex appeal without looking Tawdry, while a Black, White and Pink sheath dress had great Visual Attractiveness.

Otherwise, This was a Flop. Pure and Simple. Any more said would be Unnecessary.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Tommy Hilfiger.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






Hitching his Star to a Variation on a Theme of Sgt. Peppers with all the 60's Flower Power, Hippy Dippy, Music Festival Accoutrements that come with such a theme did not prove to be the wisest decision for Tommy Hilfiger to commit to for his Uneven and Flatly Staid collection. This is territory that anyone with any trace of history about the Fashion Industry has seen trod out more times than perhaps, necessary, And frankly, Done Better.

Hilfiger brought nothing new to the table in this effort, with most items looking more on the Costume side of vintage rather than Thrift Store/Grandma's Attic vintage, and that didn't serve the clothes in the best interest. There is no real need to Delve into all the ways this collection failed, but there is some value in speaking on the pieces that did succeed, For some of the outfits were some of Hilfiger's Best Pieces, taken out of the context of the show.

A short pleated Lame/Cire Dress in Scarlet on Leila Nda was Sexy and Pretty while a Black Leather Belted coat with Gold accents was Tough and Super Chic as was a very Modish Swing Coat in Black Giving good Retro! Now, as for those Granny Dresses that were equal parts Flower Child Hippy/Grunge Goddess that ended the show were Patently Foolish!

Hilfiger has a Knack for a Statement making show in the Grand Sense, and this Set did not disappoint, nor did, in the schema of the theme, the clothes. But, this, after some of his best work in the past few seasons, seemed, Atavistic and Silly. This felt more like a Costume show, than a Fashion Show, and that essential difference is what makes This collection more a Dud than a Smash!





That's All.





Bye4Now!





Monday, December 1, 2014

Carolina Herrera.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






It is not wise to think of Carolina Herrera as JUST one of the Elder Stateswomen of 7th Ave. She is that, Indubitably so, but she is also not sitting on an Ivory Tower, Imperiously, staring down at all she surveys with a air of Stuck-Up Hauteur and Pretension. She is as thoroughly of her time and, with Equal Ferocity, as her more Downtown Counterpart, DVF. Although Herrera is much more Haute Couture than Von Furstenberg, They are both Women of Flustering Command and can own a room as effortlessly as a Bird Flies. It just seems easier to put Blinders on when it comes to Herrera because her domain is that of Unfailing Richesse and Diane is well... DIANE! 

This is not to Compare the two, only to contrast the positions they occupy and the circles that they both traveled in, in their youth and how their paths must have undoubtedly crossed many times, and now, they, being in the age range they are, serve as Bridges and Ambassadors to the Past and to the Future! They are the Crown Regents of the American Fashion Hierarchy and NO ONE Would ever Dare to put that into Question! But it is easier for the Casual observer to see where DVF is more the designer for the Urban Woman and Herrera inhabits a more Mythical Echelon that may be hard to compute for women not in a certain Tax Bracket, especially owing that Much of Herrera's Offerings are often in the Tens of Thousands of Dollars, which makes her clothes something of a Fairy Tale to most.

Yet, that does not mean that Herrera's clothes are not Modern, Even if sometimes they are somewhat Precious, But it's this Preciousness that makes her clothes all the more Wondrous, and Spring 2015 was surely one of her most Extravagant and Special collections ever! 

Flowers, For Spring... well we all know the line from "The Devil Wears Prada" but for Spring, What could be more Inspiring THAN Flowers? But, Herrera is Keenly aware that it could easily devolve into a Rote and Typical Fashion Foray. This, However, was not in any way nearly the case Chez Carolina Herrera. In all fact, it was one of the most Astoundingly Breathtaking collection in recent memory, in any city. It had such Craftsmanship and Creativity handled with such balanced measure, it could have qualified with the greatest of ease as an Haute Couture Collection. It was that Impactive and Exquisite! 

There was a Japanese strain running through the collection that played out in Liquid Origami style drapes that were more insinuations than direct application of the technique. There was even an Allusion to Kimonos and Samurais with New takes on Lantern and Kimono sleeves and Raised Samurai seaming, but again these were just Vague inferences, but one could visualize the Japanese touches. Otherwise the were Artistic, Georgia O'Keefe Florals that were then visually distorted as to appear warped or manipulated and gave a Arch modernist feel to the flowers. 

As usual, Herrera's Strongest cards were played in her Dramatic Evening Gowns, which this season were Splendidly, Over-The-Top Exorbitant in their Majesty! Counterpointed by Super Strong Day wear, The gowns were even more Decadent! More though, on those later, The Day pieces had Spellbinding appeal, like a Radiant Butter Yellow clean front Skirt suit which spoke of Modern Hauteur, or the Malt coloured Cardigan coat and skirt set that caused a Flutter in one's chest of deepest Desire! Another winner, The Cropped White jacket with Folding details paired with a Wheat and White Floral A-Line skirt and the simple appearing Cranberry Silk dress that from the front, looked as easy as a Tee, but had Complicated construction galore from the back!

Evening was full of Surprises and the Richest rewards... A Royal Purple Gazar two-piece gown had the Flair of a Ralph Rucci Infanta Gown of yore and was Stupendously Impressive, or the Black Column with a Slash of Coral at the Bust and Yellow at the waist that opened in back to reveal train of White Silk was Operatic in it's drama while a Complicatedly constructed White Ballgown on Daphne Groeneveld was Extravagant in it's Unadorned Munificence! Though it was the Penultimate gown that stole one's heart away, A Gigantic Ballgown constructed out of tulle with Cutout pieces of thin Foam that had been Hand painted and constructed, Puzzle like, to form a Enormous Floral pattern on the skirt. It was one of those moments that made one Gasp and hold one's breath! It was Dynamism Moving! 

This was perhaps the best collection of the Spring New York Season. It was Artistic, It was Heartstopping, It was EXCELLENCE PERSONIFIED! Herrera proved that She is perfectly In Tune, In her own way, with what Modern means in the Fashion Game, This collection was a Beauty from Beginning to End. Herrera IS Fashion Royalty, And she designs clothes for her customer to feel like they are the same, No Doubts here that a woman will look nothing less than Queenly Regal in this Collection! 





That's All.





Bye4Now!

The Row.

Mon. 09/08/2014.






Working in Voluminous Proportions can be Extremely Daunting if one does not have the design skills to make that all that volume look still slimming and devoid of bulk. Achieving such a thing can put even the most Talented designers to the test unless they have the Natural Skills of say... a Cristobal Balenciaga or Yves Saint Laurent... Add Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen to that Pantheon! They rendered Mesmerizing command with the Bouffant, Billowing shapes for Spring 2015 they strode forth for their design house, The Row. Include into that Equation that this is a Spring Collection and these shapes demand that they be Breezy and Fluid and that the Olsen's, with their typical Counterbalance to all things Trendy, decided to give their shapes Ballast and Weight and a slight amount of Stiffness that made the clothes all that more compelling!

The Ladies, (one has to squelch the temptation to call them Girls) were as enigmatically Cryptic as ever when explaining their Inspiration, confining what they said mainly to "Raw Silks" as their Point of Departure. That was evident in the Slubby, Sheeny, opening pieces in a Deep, Desert-y Shade of Golden Maize and elsewhere. But the fabrics richness and drape must have been where the real Inspire came from, for the clothes were Lyrical Compositions of Shape and Scale. An A-Line dress with a draped cuff at the top in that Maize shade Undulated with Liquid Gorgeousness. This same Undulating effect was seen later in an Equally Hypnotic Strapless Ink Blue gown. One realized that there was not One single short outfit in the entire collection, There was a Bedouin affect to the outfits that lent something of the Nomadic to what transpired.

There were many other examples of this Principle of Luxury Bohemian that is the Vernacular of the Olsen Twins. Wide, Swinging coats, Bell Shaped skirts, Wraparound tops with softly flaring Peplums... Everything was Generous in Proportion and Spirit, even if it was completely Devoid of any embellishment whatsoever, the clothes exuded Immense, Languid Extravagance. The Modus Operandi of the Olsen's seems to be to swim, Quite Explicitly, Against the Fashion Tide and obstinately do their own thing, for better or worse. The thing about this counterpoint to the prevailing Winds of Fashion is that the Twins have CONTINUALLY (and Successfully)  hit the mark they are aiming for with such Sniper Precise Pinpoint Accuracy that to do anything less than the Diametric Opposite of Convention, Would be the Truly Radical Thing for them!





That's All.





Bye4Now!