Friday, June 16, 2017

Protagonist Spring/Summer 2016.

Tues. 089/08/2015.

While one of the creators of the Protagonist label said her farewells before this Spring 2016 season, the design team left behind fulfilled the task of living up to the principles and ethos of the house. Building a collection on Rock Solid luxury basics can be, at times, dangerous waters to wade into, the clothes can often come off as bland and lifeless and reek of what women already have in their overfull wardrobes. When handled properly, however, it can be a revelation of nigh biblical magnitude and can inspire a woman to see the banal as the radiant apotheosis of chic! That's hat has been achieved here.

Sleek is a word well used and often overused, but there was a stripped down, pared back purity and unfussiness that could only be called that. Sleek! Lithe. These clothes were meant for function, not lollygagging around just looking impossibly poised and nonchalant (although they fit that bill also, immaculately) There was motivation and movement in these clothes, despite their sparseness of detail and aesthetic sobriety. This would lead one to think, boring, and that would be foolish, for the clothes excited on a very base and immediate level of chicness. A perfectly proportioned and balanced Black pants ensemble with a long belted wrap coat/jacket, devoid of any extraneous detail, a elongating White jumpsuit shed any of it's retro connotations and seemed as pure as the dawn light.

This collection, from top to bottom, excelled in it's achievement of creating the perfect, modern wardrobe for a woman that has more confidence in herself than in her clothes. No one can hide behind the startlingly reductionist silhouettes provided here, but then again, the Protagonist customer has nothing she is in care of hiding anyway! The Protagonist woman is a woman who speaks for herself, her clothes are simply an amplifier for that voice!

That's All.


Wednesday, June 7, 2017

ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo Spring/Summer 2016.

Tues. 09/08/2015.

Anthony Thomas Melillo's Spring 2016 collection was a pure and minimal offering of sumptuousness cloaked in austerity. Melillo's brief treatise encompassed sleek and slickly tailored pieces with easier, relaxed offerings given as beautiful counterpoint. Which shouldn't be much of a surprise, owing that Melillo's guiding motivations have been to create the ideally perfect T-shirt for his woman, and there was ample evidence of those on show as well as superbly cut blazers and slender pants. Nothing here was super attenuated, but all was created to elongate and winnow a woman's silhouette without squeezing her like a sausage in a casing. 

The collection had a legginess to it that was in no way owed to abbreviated hems, in fact, there was a since of modest sexuality that was more evocative of sensual than outright vampy. Slim pants gave the illusion of mile-long legs, and all were cropped, either above the ankle or just below the knee. Body limning dresses played with length more casually and freely, playfully going to mid-calf and others creeping up much higher on the legs. 

With the collection being so restrained with colour and shape, Melillo designed pieces that were still impactive and eye-catching... A Putty coloured coat dress that opened the looks was a practice in Utilitarian chic that was mouth-wateringly covetous, while a simple Barley coloured shift dress read as austere, but was certainly an attention getter! The scene-stealer though, had to be the Pale Moonlight Silver ensemble of a slim coat and pants with one of Melillo's signature drape-y T-shirts underneath, an outfit that could travel from any boardroom to any party zone this side of the Atlantic! Melillo's sureness in what he does and what he wants to create, gives his collections incredible gravitas and depth, even with simplicity and an ascetic approach being his calling card. To be sure, Rarely has so little had so much Oomph! 

That's All.