Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Monique L'Huillier

Fri. 09/05/2014.






It is certainly an Auspicious Occasion that Monique L'Huillier has made a definite and conscious effort to design more actual Day Wear rather than her brand of Deluxed Up Day pieces. It is not such a grand thing when they are as Leaden and Awkward as these Ungainly pieces presented for her Spring 2015 collection. L'Huillier missed the mark by a Country Mile and a Half with clothes that looked Graceless with their Dreadful Length of Hemlines, OLD! There was nothing Youthful in the Absolute LEAST to be found with these Midi, Bubble shaped lengths that were as much Strange looking as Deadly Unattractive.

One could see a Definite Tracery to the style of Giambattista Valli in this showing and it's never, EVER, a good idea to try and ape another designer who has far more skill than oneself. It is no jab at L'Huillier, whom is an EXTREMELY Talented designer, but, She is No Valli. That is Simple Truth. This made for a collection that did not Cohere until the last flourish of Achingly Gorgeous Evening Pieces. There was much emphasis on Small waists and rounded Hip Bubble skirts that with all their exaggeration were Murdered by the Hideously Wrong lengths. And even when the hems were shorter they still looked Bizarrely Unwearable!

In among this whirlwind of Stunningly Miscalculated Day pieces, were some Stunners. A Black Belted Matelasse Coat with Balenciaga Like volume and cut that was as Uptown as anything seen this season, as well was a shortened Jacket version shown later in the show. A short Sea Glass Green Crystal encrusted Bubble dress at Exit No. 16 was One of the Truly Magnificent pieces in the entire collection and the Pair of Pink Draped Faille Ball Dresses were Instantly Gratifying!

The Cavalcade of Finale gowns were studded with one Superb Masterpiece after another, Star among them A Pastel multicolour Lace Cap sleeve gown with a Sweeping skirt that Melted the Heart and a Pale Violet Gown lavished with Darker Violet Sprigs that was Immensely Captivating! It was a Grateful surprise to see L'Huillier finally decide to move her business into the Daywear arena with a Firm Focus, but this was not the best application of her skill in that area. The Disturbingly Unappealing Shapes and Lengths in her Skirts were a Distraction that was Nigh Impossible to get over. Thankfully all that was wiped away by the dreamy Evening Pieces. Hopefully, Fall 2015 will be a Better outing for Her in the Daywear Section.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, October 27, 2014

Nicole Miller.

Fri. 09/05/2014.






It was Business as usual at Nicole Miller for Spring 2015. Nothing Radically new to be found amongst the Signature Body-Con dresses and Skirts, The Sporty Separates that were imbued with a bit of Brazilian Tropicalia inspired by the World Cup... Par for the course really. It's easy to surmise that every Nicole Miller collection is a familiar riff on the house formula with only minor adjustments and tweakings to encompass the seasonal change.

There were lots of Splashy, Tropically hued Floral Prints as well as a Prominent Pineapple print. Ruffles were slung about here and there to no real effect other than to give a little bit of the Saucy to some outfits. Otherwise, Most of everything was Yawn inducing. Too Familiar, Too Similar. Too DULL! Interchangeability with every previous collection one has designed is not a good way to make clothes. There was about as much risk taking here as belly splashing into the Kiddie Pool. 

Miller's clothes will keep a Young and Not-So Young Lady Looking Cheeky and Cheerful this season, but she won't be Setting any hearts aflame with these clothes. Only the most uninitiated neophyte would find anything here to get excited about. 





That's All.





Bye4Now!



Nonoo.

Fri. 09/05/2014.





Nonoo.

Misha Nonoo's Woman is Kinda Kooky. One she likes to refer to a "Naughty Square" In the grandest schema of things... It's neither Pertinent or Informative. Nonoo is a Sportswear designer with a little bit of a twist to her pieces. The most obvious point of fact, she's young and still in her exuberant period, and that leads to some duds, of which this collection mainly consisted of. Opening with a Gorgeous, Sleek, Athletic Wide-Leg Halter Jumpsuit set the proceedings off with a Bang. It was Chic, Classic, Streamlined. If only the rest of the collection had followed suit.

Nonoo can't help FUSSING with her pieces... Adding Dribs and Drabs, Here and There... and it's not like the additions are overstated, but they are well enough to make a critical difference to what could have been a perfectly nice outfit from being Tricky and Overworked. The Opening Passage of White outfits was the most Convincing and Deftly accomplished. After this, the show became muddled and inexpensive looking.

The frankly Weird lookingApron/ Pocket like flaps that appeared on some of the dresses were Disconcerting in the extreme and equaled out to a Monumental Mistake. The Painterly prints were wan and non-impactive, if not cute. A Pale Aqua Sleeveless Blouson and Wide leg Pants were fresh enough but didn't raise the pulse significantly, A short little V-Neck Coppery Pink Lame dress also had appeal, and was one of the best offerings in the show.

It all boiled down to a somewhat Weak and Unmemorable effort for Nonoo... It would help things immensely if she upped the Design Quotient on her clothes and gave a little more, Spice to things. Plus cutting out the Fussiness and Unnecessary additions (I.E. Sashes, Flaps, Apron like fabric Swaths attached to dresses...) Plainness coupled with Trickiness is not a Winning formula. Nonoo should by now, Know better!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Saturday, October 25, 2014

Adam Selman.

Fri. 09/05/2014.





Adam Selman.

Everyone knew that there was going to be an Inordinate amount of attention lavished on Adam Selman this season with his Premiere Runway endeavour after all of the Lavish attention that was ladled all over him after his Fete Accompli on his Friend and Client Rihanna at this years CFDA Awards in May. His Spring 2015 show was particularly Over-Hyped and Underwhelming.

For all his new-found Celebrity, Selman's collection was not much in the way of High Fashion and came off more Better Sportswear. The collection had it's moments, for sure, but mostly disappointed by being too little designed. Another point, The Pearls that Fascinated Selman so, Cheapened pretty much everything, except the short dress that was encrusted with them, to point of the Comedic. They, More than anything, proved Distracting and Facile.

A few pieces stood apart, A glistening White Coat and Skirt Combo had legs, as did a Pastel Brushstroke print Column Dress in White. The Black T-Shirt dress was perhaps the only piece adorned with Pearls that didn't look Ridiculously Tacky. In the end, Even with Rihanna making a Campy Appearance at the close, nothing was capable of saving this collection or elevating it beyond the Contemporary section of most department stores.

As auspicious as most were hoping Selman's First Outing would be, It was Sadly, Anything but that. The designer has much work ahead of him to live up to the unjust hype thrown his way, and he'll need MUCH better work than what was presented here, to prove that hype was Justified.





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Friday, October 24, 2014

Cushnie Et Ochs.

Fri. 09/05/2014.






Spring 2015 saw Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs operating a bit outside of their comfort zone and opening themselves up to a little Experimenting with their formulas. With a Flashy Flourish of Chrome Yellow to begin their Spring Treatise, The girls set a new standard for themselves that was Refreshing and Boldly Confident. There was even a somewhat softer edge to their usually Fierce Body-Con Amazonian offerings. It made for one of Cushnie and Ochs' Best Collections.

Chrome Yellow segued into a DEEP Teal that was Luxurious by way of the colour alone but when cut into some of the duos Signature Cutout dresses, It was a Dynamic Choice of colour! It was most effective in a Draped, Criss-Cross Slink of a Dress at Exit No. 10 that was a shining example of their Go-To Style! From the Deepest Blue, Michelle and Carly introduced the most Delicate shade of Porcelain Pink that was also Radically new for the house. The colour demanded a somewhat more reserved hand and the Ladies did not disappoint. Riley Montana looked especially Fetching in her Exit at No. 14.

The Two finished up with their Stock and Trade Black and White, sometimes toughened up with Huge grommets And/Or Cutouts. These were the Pieces the house is known for and were as amply satisfying as per usual. Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs are Forces of Fashion to be reckoned with, it was incredibly rewarding to see them move away from the house codes and traverse new territory with particular confidence and Elan! If they keep developing the Language of their House as such, they will continue edging themselves up the Ladder of Fame with Decisive Ease!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

M.I.A.

Fri. 10/24/2014.





Dear Readers,

Sorry to have been gone so long. My Father has been in Dire Pain for the last month or so and we have finally figured out that he needs Surgery. I have been taking care of him as he has been incapacitated and unable to move on his own.

It has been quite trying and I feel quite shameful that I have been away so long, but this was something that was occupying all of my time outside of work.

If you have been keeping up with the blog and still reading, Dear Friends, THANK YOU SO IMMENSELY! I appreciate it more than words can ever convey. I am back and am going to try and catch up as swiftly as I possibly can.

Thank You, One And All...


Yours Sincerely,


Terrill Lawrence Sanford.