Friday, February 28, 2014

Etro and Iceberg.

Fri. 09/20/2013.











With all the Swirling Paisley and Foulard prints floating about on the Veronica Etro's Family-run Label for Spring 2014, one could be convinced there was something of a Neo-Bohemian Hippy feeling perfuming the air with a thick scent of Patchouli and Incense around Casa Etro! It wouldn't be too far from the truth as Etro gave us a rich and eclectic collection chockablock with clothes for a Modern hippy redolent of the best of the Haight-Ashbury heyday! Lest we think Psychedelica and shapeless layers abound, No! 

There were modern shapes with retro influences like wide leg Pallazzos and swirling skirts. There were more Up-to-date modern influences with the inventive knits and scarf tops and scarf wrap skirts that will easily Intergrate into a Woman's Etro wardrobe with ease. The big thing however, was the extremely confident and deft mixing of prints that just Bedazzled the eye with beauty layered upon beauty in ever inventive ways. That was the major take away message to be found in this Luxe/Boho Mash-Up! 











I fell Hard for Alexis Martial's Debut at Iceberg for Spring 2014. It was Such a Self-Assured collection brimming with Confidence, Spirit and a Marked point of view that any designer needs to make his/her name in this business. Martial combined Sporty, Mod, Fragile and Tough all in a collection dominated by the spirit of one of my dream places on Earth, Tokyo! It had some Boyish Androgyny thrown in that lifted the collection beyond the mundane and everyday. With Helmut Lang in the 90's being a frequently touched upon icon this season, Martial embraced his Oeuvre with brimming Vie! 

Take Exit No. 4 which is just one of the most Breath Stealing outfits this season and it also encompassed the White-On-White Trend so apparent this season, A Sleeveless Vest/Coat with a Sleeveless ribbed tank dress underneath was Astoundingly Ascetic but Overflowing with Minimalist Luxury! Also one of the most Witty things to come out of this season was Martial's use of an Iceberg Decal on some of the pieces that just boggled the mind why it had never been done before at this house! It was not just Tongue-In-Chic... It was Utter BRILLIANCE! 

The collection continued on, Merging the Hard and Soft, The Tough and The Delicate, The Sporty and the Chic from beginning right til the end and made maximum impact of the debut of the new designer at the helm. Iceberg felt Futuristic with no desire to lay any claim to the past or classical elegance. Martial seems to be plotting a Firm Trajectory towards Space-Age Rigour and Chic Toughness that, if he keeps the pedal to the metal and plows full speed ahead with his vision... his name will be on everyone's lips Very Soon! 










That's All.










Bye4Now!



Sportmax.

Fri. 09/20/2013.











MaxMara's sporty, younger cousin SportMax, has begun to in recent seasons, make a distinctive name for itself that doesn't live in the Enormous Shadow of it's bigger, older, more established cousin. As MaxMara itself has begun to transform it's own image for the modern women, SportMax has also done the same, carving out a new identity for itself as more Risky and Edgy and less classical in it's approach. Making a more Modern name for itself has involved taking a path that allows experimentation within the confines of the house codes. This Spring 2014 season has seen that experimenting pay off dividends as the hand of the SportMax Design team has grown more steady.

Confident Arabesques and Pirouettes of artiness were rife in the collection and executed with assured verve. The opening Doubleface Suede coat had a primitive vibe to it that lent a risque air of the Neanderthal to the Louche Slip dress underneath. This was just the prelude to the main attraction and fascination of the SportMax Design team, Polka Dots, which came in Oversize and Humongous! There were Cutouts that intimated at Circular dots or half insets of dots at the sides or hems of dresses... it more artistic than it sounds and gave visual interest to one's eye! 

One extravagant riff on the Oversized Dot motif was a Hi-Lo hem dress on Grace Mahary at Exit No. 27, which inset Huge Satin dots on a floaty trapeze crepe dress, played as easily for a Afternoon at the beach as an weekend evening in the city! As the show galloped towards it's final perorations the dots grew smaller and smaller until they were regular size and were less artistic and more decorous... one of the best iterations was the Tech mesh that was actually open dots and not net mesh,  showed up in two lovely exits, One on Catherine McNeil at Exit No. 41, a Sleeveless mesh overlay on a strapless dress accented with a few Dots here and there and the other on Liu Wen at Exit No. 43, A full fledged evening dress of Black mesh and Nude silk with a solid Black top and Hi-Lo Hem. A STUNNER! 

If this is the direction SportMax is taking for it's future, this is a phenomenal Springboard from whence to jump into Modern fashion. The design team have a firm grasp on the reins of the house, all of it augers well for the future! 










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Emporio Armani.

Fri. 09/20/2013.










Emporio Armani.

Giorgio Armani has a rather repetitive habit of relying on his own past and essentially one might say... regurgitating tropes and ideas with a startling frequency. One could say at times, especially when it comes to Emporio Armani, that if you've seen one collection... you've pretty much seen them all. That was Spring 2014 in a nutshell.

There was no freshness, no advancing of the codes of the house, this collection could have worked simply for the fact that yes, it's very pretty and very wearable. however, it was nothing at all new. In fact, it felt as atavistic as it possibly could. The overwhelming sense of Deja Vu lent an air of indifference to the clothes that was hard to escape and in the end, there is really nothing new that could be added to the commentary of the looks that would advance the conversation. Kind of like the looks themselves.










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Blumarine.

Fri. 09/20/2013.











Anna Molinari gave us a typically flamboyant and romantically inclined collection for her Blumarine Spring 2014 that put much focus on less amped up sexuality that in past collections. There was an elegance in this collection that was duly welcome. This elegance was given a Tougher edge later in the collection that wasn't altogether convincing in light of the gossamer romance of the early part of the collection. 

The Flora and Fauna abounded in the beginning in the form of soft flower lace and embroidered butterflies was almost distractingly pretty, yet with the indiscreet amounts of sheerness sometimes it teetered on the Vulgar. Take Exit No. 6... an altogether improper amalgam of a completely sheer sleeveless top delicately embroidered in floral lace paired with a pencil skirt in White Fil-Coupe with splashes of Coral, Black and Gold that just looked... Trashy.

Juxtapose that with the sublimely lovely dress that followed that was a Sensual and Provocative play on sheerness yet had none of the sluttish connotations. This element of Saucy versus Trampy Teeter-Tottered throughout the show and lent an air of confusion to which message Molinari was trying to convey. Pair this with an Ill-Advised Soujourn into Rocker Territory with Leather pants and Shawl collar jackets and the diffusion watered down the message even further. 

A collection is made up of many parts, but sometimes profusion can lead to an embarrassing muddying of the waters, and while this collection had a plethora of beauties... There was too much (and in another sense, Too LITTLE) going on all at once to provide a coherence that would give this collection a Pointed and Focused View. 










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Ports 1961.

Thurs. 09/19/2013.











For Spring 2014 Fiona Cibani struck the Perfect Balance between the Structured and Languid that was not only Masterful, It was Deftly Assured. The collection was a brief and exquisite exercise in Delicacy and Strength with an elegant Bohemian Edge thrown in. 

A focused palette of primarily White was the base for interaction with soft muted colour from a Powdery Deep Rose to a Soft Porcelain Blue and later a Ochre and Sun Yellow print gave a Pop to the latter half of the show that was just what was needed to give some dimension and interest to this already stellar collection. 

The opening was one of the Wittiest takes on Suit Dressing I have seen in a very long time, A deconstruction of the highest order. A Generous and Expertly tailored Single-Breasted Blazer paired with a Crisp White Shirt and nothing else. Talk about turning the conventional on it's ear! It was all the more Brilliant because it was actually Viably wearable in this incarnation. Exit No. 7 brought in the Bohemian vibe with a Arty Pleated Circle skirt and wrap top in White was a Winner on Multiple levels.

Exit No. 13 was also Deeply Appreciable in Porcelain Blue with a Kimono neckline short coat and flippy skirt with a White button-up. Sporty and Classic! Exit No. 21 had tons going for it as well in the simplest of ideas executed in a offhanded luxurious way, a super pale Periwinkle Blue T-shirt dress (A seemingly Inescapable trend this season) Smothered in Nouveau style embroidered flowers paired over another Shirttail hem dress. It had a Whimsical and Casual allure that could cast it for day or evening! 

One of the best coats of the season was the abbreviated Camel Peacoat paired with Bermudas at Exit No. 24, Chic and Sturdy while still being Current. The show ended in all Black on Joan Smalls and had a Boho quality to it's evening attitude that was equally Gothic and Modern in it's more Luxe/Casual approach. 

Cibani proposal for the Spring 2014 Ports 1961 Woman is a Study in Modern, Sporty Boho that flies a few Light Years ahead of the pack for it's concision of message and economy of thought. Those elements coalesced magically into a concentrated essence of what Spring dressing should be about, Ease, Comfort and Elegance. Plus a Dash of Quirk! 










That's All.










Bye4Now! 

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Prada.

Thurs. 09/19/2013.











Pastiche. That was the word that sprang to mind upon the first exit in Miuccia Prada's Incomprehensibly Brilliant Spring 2014 Collection. Along with Pastiche, Other terms found their home in this collection... Surrealism, Dadaism, Pop, Subversion, Graffiti, There were Layers upon Layers of Subtext and Context in the clothes presented here. Miuccia is at her heart, The most Thoughtful, yet deeply eccentric Subversive! The moment you expect one thing from her, she swerves into some new territory that if she were not so borne to her role as a designer would cause palpitations in the heart of most any other designer. 

Taking as her Principal Inspiration, Latin American Girl Gangs and Graffiti Art, Prada Boiled up a Humdinger of a collection that was Artful and Archly Elegant but also was covertly Luxurious and Lavish! Her girl gangs could be from East L.A. or from Guadalajara or Columbia... the different posses were given differing and unique facial and hair affectations, which in itself was just a MASTERSTROKE of Brilliance! 

With the veneer of such a tough and intimidating Idee... There was also a Marvellously Glorious High Art vein being tapped that channeled equally Lichtenstein, Hockney and Nagel! With such Disparate ideas swirling in the ether, Someone less deft of hand would have fumbled under the immense weight of trying to tie it all together... Not Miuccia! 

Let's Get this out of the way now... To try to go into extended detail about multiple exits would be a waste of time in the utter extreme, for this is the kind of collection that words can only do so much. Yes, More intense verbal perusal is in order, but in the spirit of brevity and actually in the face that the clothes are so rich in depth, describing them in any contextual way is to spoil their Magic! 

Take the almost dizzying details of the First Exit... what could be taken as a sleeveless shift over a ribbed sock knit skirt under would be the most humble way of interpreting the outfit. When one gives it the second look, one sees the scads of Sequins and Beaded embroidery on the slanted top half of the bodice that was divided into THREE Section, Orange and Red at the neck, Green and Yellow below that and then Black below that, AND IT STILL WASN'T DONE... the Face Portrait print on the skirt was combined with a swirling Damask print. WHEW! All this in one "SIMPLE" outfit. 

Before there is any further dissection, let's take a minute to glorify the most sublime usage of LAVISH Beading and Sequin embroidery on the day wear in either the sculpted brassiere tops on the dresses or in dense smatterings on shift dresses and skirts! It did not endow the clothes with a sense of the Decorous or the Lavish. It seemed just a natural expression of the artiste quality simmering throughout! 

Worth a mention, the decidedly Un-opulent use of Fur. The Furs in this collection were Pop Pieces of Wearable Art. They had Gravitas and made perfect sense when the Spring decides to take a chilly, wet turn. The prettiest was at Exit No. 10 an intricate construction of Nude and Yolk and White with Cornflower Blue and Lemon Yellow! 

The show see-sawed between Eccentric and Extreme Ornamentation pastiches and more Sportif and Simple configurations adorned with baroque accents. Some of the "Portrait" printed pieces were spliced into Multi mix Pastiches of Outlandish Technical Facility, Matching swaths of Embroidery and solid fabric with textured material and beading... it was all Deliriously Riotous! Miuccia has never been one toe the line of just Pretty and Simple... There is always a flagrant streak of defiance in all her work, even the most restrained and charming of Prada's collections have always been suffused with a almost bitter disdain for anything normal or conventional. This collection was just one of the most Exhilarating evocations of that mindset. And will definitely go down in her Archive as one of the best of Miuccia's Epoch!









That's All.









Bye4Now! 



Costume National.

Thurs. 09/19/2013.










Costume National.

There was something Deeply Unsettling and Provocative about Ennio Capasa's Costume National collection for Spring 2014. Unsettling and Provocative in a Masterful way. Capasa's collection pushed boundaries in Unique and Tantalizing ways, Experimenting with proportion and drape and cut in subtle yet wholly innovative ways!

There was a Certain Force Majeure to this Brilliant Exercise in as Capasa cited Deconstruction and Reconstruction. Skewing the majority of the outfits towards the Architectural and the results were sometimes a little difficult to swallow but admirable. There was a Sparse, Terse, Clean look to the clothes, a admonishing of all things extraneous left only the Futuristic Sheen of Modernity.

As the collection progressed the level of difficulty mounted and the intensity built. No matter how difficult the clothes became though they kept the abstract feeling throughout and where in some collections the disparate elements would have been too haranguing in less competent hands, Capasa handled all these balls in the air with a Jugglers Expertise!

It was not in any sense a easy collection to digest, and in that lay it's brilliant charms. Sometimes we need someone to propose a new vision of an old idea, In wobbly hands that can lead to just a Discombobulated mess, In Capable hands, as we have seen here for Spring 2014, It can lead to Challenging our conceptions. And when that occurs, The whole of the Industry is the better for it!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Just Cavalli.

Thurs. 09/19/2013.











What happens when you Frappe together Punk Plaid, Leonard of Paris Flower prints, A touch of Versace circa 1993 and throw in a touch of Grunge for good measure? A Vibrant Mess of a Miss that was Just Cavalli Spring 2014. 

There were Scarf Prints, Optic Prints, Floral Prints... PRINTS PRINTS AND MORE PRINTS! Throw in plenty of Plaid, a touch of Leopard and super high slits, peekaboo cutouts and Lingerie Black lace and you have something particularly convoluted! Not bad, but Overwrought. A sharper edit would have benefitted the collection greatly, also a little less of a tendency to rely on prodigious mixes of prints would have helped immensely too! 

Last Words. Pretty. Bold. Sexy, but perhaps too much to visually digest all at once. 










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Fendi.

Thurs. 09/19/2013.











It's Raining Fendi...? Suggested by the Waterfall background one would have thought The Maestro Karl Lagerfeld was going to be on some Aquatic bent but alas, one can NEVER know the Mind of the mad Genius that is Lagerfeld and he was obviously a Million Miles away from Aquatic. Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini-Fendi were on a different tangent, poaching inspiration from the digital age that we live in, Karl as always Of-The-Minute and it showed in this Futuristic Treatise on Modernity. Carving out layers of Organza and Shaving and Articulating fur into Featherweight constructions that defied all imagining! 

Taking the Stuffiness out of Fur has been the Raison D'etre of the Lagerfeld Reign at Fendi which has spanned some 40+ years! But his Mission De L'Maison for Spring 2014 was to take the Stiffness out of Organza. Mission Accomplished! Lagerfeld began by constructing layers of the previously perceived stiff material in ethereal floaty layers of blocked Ombre colour, shading from Intense Searing shades to cool to White. Beginning with scorching Fuschias and Pinks with a singular Orange interlude and finally into Cool shades of Blue, Gray and then Black. The colour scheme kept everything fresh and focused.

Also, the Technical Cuts of some of the garments bordered Jigsaw Puzzle-like intricacy. The cuts at times offered something of a distraction from the Gorgeous Garments, A bit of the too much of a good thing syndrome, Yet taken in the context of the theme of the collection these pieces afforded one to be witness to the Elaborate Skills of the Fendi Ateliers!

By the latter half of the show, things had simplified outwardly, or so it seemed, and the collection seemed to grow even more desirable with this turn of events. A Black Bubble skirt dress at Exit No. 31 was crafted from squares of shaved Mink and moved with all the lightness of Tulle. Or the Mink Cutouts in a Graphic, Circuit Board-like pattern. One Excellent Standout was a Jigsawed Multicolour coat in the same shaved Mink in Red, Black, Nude and White at Exit No. 39 was a Marvel of Exacting construction.

The Finale was a Trompe L'Oeil Fantasia of Shaved Cut Mink and Nude Tulle and heavy Swarovski Crystals. A Red Textured Shaved patched Mink jacket at Exit No. 46 on sheer Tulle was an Outstanding Exercise in precision, especially paired with the Cutout "Circuit Board" Skirt in White Mink. Or the Chiffon light coat of Nude Tulle and White Mink that followed was Pure MAGIC!

Fendi Never fails to offer A Hundred and One Variations on Fur and Leather (Check the Faux Croc mixed with Real Croc handbags!) and always in Surprising and Magnificently Inventive ways! Karl and Silvia have forged a Winning relationship that has taken Fendi to the Stratosphere of the Amazing. This Collection, was Proof Positive of that simple truth!










That's All.










Bye4Now!












Friday, February 14, 2014

MaxMara.

Thurs. 09/19/2013.











You want a Truly Perfectly Crafted and Luxurious Coat... Max Mara are your Go-To Guys! The house has a rich history Cashmere and Camel hair Coats as well as Butter rich leathers... Kinda like a Fendi but with Cashmere instead of Fur! The Technique and Craftsmanship are equal at both houses. Fendi being at the Forefront of New Techniques and Processes for Fur and Max Mara occupying the same sphere except in Ever More Pliant, Lighter and Smoother Cashmeres, Camel Hair, Woolens and Such! 

This Spring 2014 collection was a Grab Bag of Good and Not-So Good things. The mainly Anodyne Neutral palette was refreshing, but in it's repetitiveness, it began to bore the eye, most noticeable for the fact that all the clothes are so Mesmerizingly Minimal! The Interjection of Scorching Hot Colour was an Outstandingly Bracing relief. That aside, the Neutral tones accentuated some of the best pieces in the collection by simply offering no distraction to the Purity of Cut. 

An opening Coat in a splendid shade of Mist Grey was easily one of the most Desirable pieces of the season. The Slip dress underneath was the Luxury Evocation of the 90's staple even in the same 90's minimalist mode but now with Definite Couture Edge. There were ever more neutral Non Colours to follow and some Marvellous pieces wrought from those bare nothing shades. Exit No. 10 was one of those Exquisite denials... A 3-piece Miracle in Flaxen Linen comprising a Topcoat, Shell and slim Skirt! HEAVEN! An ensemble in Quartz pink at Exit No. 16 was also of particular interest being that the colour (or lack thereof) was so Bewitching! 

Yet, Before we had even reached 20 Exits, the Rainbow exploded on the Runway... Amythest, Sapphire, Tomato, Spearmint... It was a Brief Passage, But effective! Then it was on to Mineral and Rock Shades... All still rendered in the utmost of restraint! A wide sleeve Caban at Exit No. 28 in a Soothing shade of Steel Blue was paired with a dress in a delicate shade of Smoke Blue. 

After a interlude of Black, Hematite and Anthracite we were back firmly on Planet Nothing. The show moved on flawlessly to the end and we were left with an impression of Easy Breeziness and Langour. All those Minimal shades will lend to blending into a woman's already full wardrobe and give them a breath of Fresh Air in the process! 










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Monday, February 10, 2014

No. 21.

Weds. 09/18/2013.









No. 21.

To Say that Alessandro Dell'Acqua's No. 21 Collection was Bewildering in the utmost would be an Exercise in Extreme Understatement.  It was a Sheer, Beaded mess! And what with the Strange arrangement of ruffles on the sides of the skirts? And those Sheer beaded Skirts? I am At A Loss!

In the midst of this fashion tragedy, some pieces earned their wings, The Navy Blazer paired with the Frost Blue shirt underneath with beading of Jet at the hem was a Strange and Unique Beauty and the Blazer was cut with Immense Finesse and Skill. The simple Luxury of a Nude Snake Coat was an Immaculate Beauty with Utilitarian Details like the snap front was Killing it!

Another Great exit was Exit No. 25, A Rose Pink Cut-out zip front jacket had Instant Appeal and played an old favorite a new hand! But it was just too little to save such a Catastrophic mess of a collection. No. 21 is usually a Collection a woman can go to for Sexy. Slightly Naughty fashion, this time, she is certainly needing to look elsewhere!










That's All.









Bye4Now!









Alberta Ferretti.

Weds. 09/18/2013.










Alberta Ferretti.

Citing the South of Italy as Inspiration, Alberta Ferretti in her Gloriously Beautiful Spring 2014 collection, A distinct feeling of South of the Border crept in as well. Known for her Romantic and Feminine creations, this season brought about a Lighter, more Refreshing air to Ferretti's signature Romance. More Airy and Sensuous as opposed to Sensual!

Opening with a Cavalcade of White in Floaty Mousselines and Lace decorated with bright Silk thread embroideries and Satin Ribbons in flyaway ruffly layers and Plisse pleats. The Technical Wizardry and Facility of these pieces belied their Light-Handed delicacy! Next up, Serape inspired Stripes in Shiny Silks, Then Foulard Prints and an Exquisite Mini Floral. All conspired to make Ferretti's woman even more Exotically Lovely!

Shoring up the Mexico/Spanish Mood even further was the section In Black Lace and More Ruffles! And then, Just before the White and Black Finale with Beaded Flowers there was a lovely indulgence in Hothouse Colour, Especially Wonderful in Mandarin Orange.

Whether it's The South of Italy or Down Mexico Way, Ferretti Created a Collection of Characteristic Beauty, yet with a Newfound Airiness and Breeziness. The Floral motifs that abounded will appeal to Ferretti's Core Clientele and give them much to delight in! Come Spring, Get your Green Thumbs Ready!









That's All.










Bye4Now!

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Gucci.

Weds. 09/18/2013.










Gucci.

Erte, Kimonos, Arte Nouveau, Basketball Shorts, Athletic Mesh and Track Pants... Now that's a Recipe for Absolute Disaster no matter how you slice it! Unless.... You're Frida Damn Giannini! This Tiny Italian Powerhouse Whirred all these Diverse elements together in the Blender and gave us the most Sensual and Delicious Fashion Smoothie!

Spring 2014 was A Glorious About-Face for Giannini and Gucci. After the Sensational Ruffle Extravaganza of Spring '13 and then Last Season's Weak Showing, This was a return to fighting form! Unexpected, Challenging and Such a Departure for the house that it was an Eye-Opening experience!

Starting with Sporty and Nouveau elements as inspiration, Giannini went Luxe Casual in the most Luxe Way! Erte insprired embellished Basketball Shorts on the bottom were the essence of Glam Sport and even thought the top in Mesh seemed like an Athletic Afterthought with no eye to the Rich, NOPE! It's in Laser Perforated Suede! There's Your Luxe Factor!

Continuing, The Sport Kimono! It had as much influence of Kimono as it did of a Karate Gi! Here, appeared the Track pants. Yes, It worked! Exit No. 12 was a Killer Kimono sleeve Caftan dress cut shorter and sassier and elevated to Iconic status on The Lithe Mega Goddess Joan Smalls. It's Erte/Nouveau Swirls and Whorls punctuating the Sexy Casual Nature of the dress with an Artistic Edge!

It's an exercise in the unnecessary to dissect numerous outfits... No! it sufficient enough to say that Giannini Packed one Wallop of a Punch with this Edgy, Risky yet ultimately Marvellous Collection from the house of Gucci that Built! It was Perhaps one of the best showings of the season, Bar None!










That's All.











Bye4Now!


Agnona.

Weds. 09/16/2013.











Can one be overwhelmed with an emotional reaction in only 24 Precisely Judged Outfits? The answer is a Resounding and Vociferous, YES!! Stefano Pilati's Return to fashion was a Laid Back, Quiet affair with little fanfare but the most Outstanding Clothes. It was Exquisite! Truly, Fully, Completely! 

Working in Cashmere Mainly, Which is what Agnona is known for, (Small Fact, Agnona is such a High End Cashmere house outside of their own collection, that they provide Cashmere, Wool and Cottons for The Couture Houses) The collection was Brilliantly Conceived and Executed. The Palaka Check Print that was used much in the collection was Rendered in the First Look in a Doubleface Cashmere, Palaka print on the outer side, Milk White on the inner side... Light as Feather and easy as a cardigan... BLISSFUL! 

The Palaka Print Crocodile Jacket of Look No. 6 was an Elaborate and INSANELY Expensive variation on the print. But achieved in such a Offhanded and Casual way as to belie the Outrageous Luxe of the piece also it was paired with another Deliciously Rich fabrication, A pair of shorts cut out of Kid Mohair. Awesome! 

At Look No. 12 that Same Enviably Luxurious Mohair was cut into a Lustful Sleeveless coat with a clean White shirt and Palaka print pants,. One of the most Sensationally Understated Outfits of the season! The collection from here went from one High to another ending in a series of Romaine Crepe Dresses that had that A Modern Edge but were not Intellectually Taxing and easy to Digest and Adapt to more Classical Guise! 

Pilati showed why he was one of the major forces in fashion When he was at the helm of YSL now in his new Position as Creative Director of the Zegna Group, Of which Agnona is a Holding. Agnona's Future is Easily Secured if Pilati can continue on such an Exquisite Trajectory for the House that Cashmere Built! 









Bye4Now.










That's All!



Dsquared2.

Weds. 09/18/2014.










I Adore The Caten Brothers, Dean and Dan, and few people in the industry are as big of Showman as these Guys. And That's the Trap of their exhibitionist tendencies, They can focus so much on the theme of it all and forget to create really viable clothes that don't go off on a tangent in relation to the Overall Set Piece! 

That being said, the Tiki Lounge Beach Setting produced as always a Raucous and Brilliant Showpiece but the clothes were dreadfully uneven with only Moderate Highs and some truly Dissatisfying lows. No One loves a good Shoehorning of a Model into a Waist Cinching, Breast Uplifting Bustier than the Catens, and So Do I! But this season the Swimsuit styled 50's Bustier tops over Bikini briefs, where draped and Plain as the opening exit or embellished in later exits... They didn't do really anything in the way of Beautiful-Making for the Tiny Models who looked Wide and Fleshy and not in the good way let alone Imagine what they would do for the women of the real world! 

Also, In their Rhapsodizing on the female form, they also focused way too much on Glamourous Swimwear and everything else lacked commitment. There were some beautiful pieces, A simple White shirt, A pair of Sesame Coloured Croc SHORT Shorts and a Fun Hat at Exit No. 12... Magic. A Blue Croc Caban Coat with White Clamdiggers At Exit No. 14 was also Working for the Children! However, in the End it was not enough to give the collection a backbone. It was Eccentric and Fun, Sure! But Not Wholly Complete. 










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Now To Milan Spring 2014.

Thurs. 02/06/14.





Done with London and off to Milan. Hope to get through this as quickly as possible. I have been lagging behind, But lots of stuff going on in life and trying to get to Fall 2014 as quick as possible so i can report live. Thank You for all of you have been still reading, Thank You so Much and Please Continue! 


Love To You All! 


Off to Milan! 



Sincerely Yours, 



Terrill Lawrence Sanford.



(ChanelBear4Evah)

Dear Readers.

Thurs. 02/06/2014.





I Know the shows have started and I am just now hitting Milan in my reviews I am trying to get through this all and I Promise that I will be reporting Live from the shows by the Beginning of the week, or I am least going to try my Level Best!

Thank You and Please, Stick With Me.



Sincerely,



Terrill Lawrence Sanford 

(ChanelBear4Evah)

Tom Ford.

Mon. 09/16/2013.











It's SO Good to have THE Tom Ford back on the Fashion Calender and Showing why he is such a MAJOR Force to be reckoned with. This Collection was his followup after his SMASHING Comeback Collection that was pretty much derided across the board by critics and yet, was still seen on every Celeb and Fashionista this side of Timbuktu! 

This collection hearkened back to the Ford days of Yore at Gucci, especially, and YSL. There was that ACHING Bitch-Goddess Sexiness Of Gucci with some of that Slithering, Pantheress Loucheness from YSL. Here though Tom was in Warrior Woman Mould... Not a thing we have actually seen Chez Ford... usually his woman is more sexually accessible and available, like he was famous for saying, "Touchable!" Here, She was Encased In the most Sublime Caramel Leather and Croc in the Opening Passage. It was Amazonian in it's Strength and Power! Long Legs on display, Miles of them on Exit No. 2 model Betty Adewole who may be giving Maria Borges a run for Best Legs in the Biz! 

Side Note. Those Ribbed Leather pieces had the rather unintentional look of the bodysuits that they used in the Jennifer Lopez/Vince Vaughn Movie, "The Cell" Not a bad thing. But it did have that feeling! 

Mercifully, and Punishingly, Ford Joyously kept hemlines Miniscule. Watching Exit No. 8 Sashay down the runway gave us a flashback to the Heyday of Gucci. As did the Space Age Modern Super Sleek White Trench in the Exit that followed! 

There were new moments as well for Ford. The Cyborg Woman Encased in Sheaths covered in The most EXACTING Mirror embroideries I have seen EVER! Worn with Vajayjay high Boots, Ford's Amazon looked as much Terminator as Dominatrix! One of the best was Exit No. 27 In a myriad of Multicolour Mirrors looking like a Human Kaleidoscope! 

An Amazing Allusion to YSL on Grace Bol (LOVE!) in a Sable Bolero over a Sheer Tee and Tuxedo Pants In ALL Black at Exit No. 30, had One of Tom's Touchstones, The Great Bianca Jagger, Written ALLLLL Over It! It's Twin in White a few exits later was Just as Mesmerizing! By the time a few exits later, the show was over, One was left Salivating for more, but like any Great Pusher... and OH BY GOD Is Tom Ford a Pusher, He gave you only a Hit of the Drug! You have to sell your soul to him to get more, And providing such Rushes (Gucci, Rush... See what I did there...?!?!?!) I Say Sign on the Line and make Like Faust and Mephistopheles! Just Tap The Vein Now! 










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Giles.

Mon. 09/16/2013.










Giles.

It must be something in the British Soil that breeds a certain Subversity in it's Fashion Designers. Giles Deacon is borne from that Rich Stock and is one of the best Practitioners of the Melancholic, Arty Beauty. Spring 2014 saw that vision of Haunting Couture restrained more so in it's measure for more easily wearable ideas and less affected Garments.

Deacon has always had a Dark, Brooding Romance to his collection that has earned him fans of a certain ilk. This collection, will definitely seem more communicable to a larger audience than the one that has been culled by Deacon so far. His Clientele is one that has a Strong, Determined and Somewhat Fierce Hauteur. Deacon breached the new ground by softening his approach and His collection has seemed to breathe with this new ease.

Opening with a section of dresses Photo Printed with Models from the good old days of the 1990's (Grunge? Again...???) by his longtime friend, Glen Luchford who was one of the chroniclers of the Grunge days and beyond. The prints of Amber Valetta, Kate Moss, Guinevere Van Seenus and Amanda de Cadenet were treated with Acid or Sepia Washes to change the colours in the opening section giving them a antique, faded feel but without the fading. The simpler nature of the opening outfits lent to the dramatic photo prints taking prominence with out overshadowing them with Complicated Construction! The later versions were Black and White versions and lent a somewhat more Cleaner feel to the prints which, of Kate Moss, Would be in full colour in the last Two exits of the section!

A gap tooth Smile Print reminiscent of "Rocky Horror" showed up next. Especially Beautiful in a Pink Dress with Lip Embroidered net sleeves at Exit No. 21. And Then... The Bats Showed Up! Yes, Die Fledermaus! Flying Rodents. BATS! I Know! Yes, Yes... YES, It seems BIZARRE! But it worked in such a Stunning way that it was only confounding to believe that no other designer had gone this route before!

The Bats at first were only rendered in prints and then a respite into some pale nude and Feather Pieces that was especially Beautiful at Exit No. 33 in a full blown Strapless Tulle Ballgown! Then in the Final Black Section, The Bats showed up first in Jet Bead Tracery embroidery then fully realized into anthropomorphic form in the last outfits and reached a Crescendo of Dark, Creepy Beauty in the last Two exitson Ondria Hardin and Binx Walton. Binx's Finale Exit was built on cutout Bats layered and overlapped in Profusion over Black Tulle in the most Fantastical Manner! The Titanic Headpieces only added to the Majesty and Kookiness of such inspiration!

Deacon's Dark Drama Yielded a Collection of Immense Depth and Beauty. One that will be remembered for many years to come, if not only for the reason that it was so strangely compelling and outrageous, But Accomplished with such Finesse and Expertise that it will resonate for seasons after... You Never Know... Bats may be the next Big Thing!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Burberry Prorsum.

Mon. 09/16/2013.











Well Played, Mr. Bailey! Christopher Bailey's Spring 2014 Burberry Collection Was a Confection for the eyes as well as the body! And in it's own, Sneakily Subverse way, A bit of a Middle Finger to the rest of the players in the fashion Game this season. Taking a Archly Romantic and Sugary route this season Bailey Zagged whilst almost everyone Zigged! 

The collection was overrun with the most Achingly Delicious COLOUR! Seafoam and Glacier Blue in the Opening Exit, Deep Primrose Pink in the next, Frost Blue, Lilac, Dawn Pink, Periwinkle, And More, More More! With an eye to that most Feminine of Materials, Lace, Bailey Hiked up the Lady Quotient and gave her a Sickly Perverse edge with Granny Panties on display through all that unlined sheer lace, AND, In doing so, Made The look ACTUALLY Viable. How he managed it, That's something only the Gods can answer. 

The Lace Dress/Coat at Exit No. 5 was one of those pieces that was destined for Instant Sell Out and Wait Listing, with it's Trench Details it honored the Burberry House Codes and shredded them to bits at the same time! In the midst of such Lightness and sheerness, Bailey Juxtaposed Thick, Hefty Coats and Jackets against all the Delicacy and Hit on a winning formula to render all that Transparency Palatable! 

As much as one would think one need go on about the collection, That's pretty much the Long and Short of it. In the finale, Bailey got all Gaudy (in the best sense) with some Outrageous Geegaw Embroideries, the best on Edie Campbell in Exit No. 45 which just was Soooo Over the top that it induced a kind or mirthful giddiness! 

Bailey Struck Gold here in one of the most fascinating outings in his time at the house. It was so Blatantly Defiant in that Cheeky British way that it actually came off as Brilliant! No one could have seen this coming and it only makes one's appetite whet even more to see what comes next!










That's All.










Bye4Now!


Erdem.

Mon. 09/16/2013.











Erdem Moralioglu Lives in a Fantastical World. One where Flights of Fancy and Jetes of the Creative Are par for the course. For Spring 2014 Many, even Erdem himself said the collection reflected something "Ghostly" and that his woman was "A Shadow" some even described the collection as "Melancholy" I have no idea if this was What Mr. Moralioglu was feeling or not, But I personally didn't see the Melancholia in this collection. I DID see Erdem turning towards his Darker instincts and leave behind his more Fanciful Nature. 

There was much invention and Technical wizardry going on here, like the opening exit in White comprised of a Motorcycle/Jean Jacket with a Zip front and a wrap slit long skirt in a glossy crinkly material that was as futuristic as the shapes and cuts were classic. Leaving his Palette in the shadow world of strict Black and White. When these Colours were layered in certain Exits it cast a mysterious Ombre effect especially with the textures and embroideries on the Garments. Take, Par Example, Exit Nos. 4-5 could have seemed to be the same dress, However upon closer inspection were the same motifs down in 2 completely different styles of Embroidery! It was an Exquisitely Genius and Couture Moment! 

This collection was Brimming with a Dark, almost Witchy Magic which gave it so much Depth and Gravitas! The simplest looking outfits were actually BURSTING with Rich Details that needed to be witnessed up close. Exit No. 10 was one of them looking like a textured material that was beaded on the Moto Jacket, it was actually Densely Embroidered with thread and beads and but done in a way as to not look Overwhelmed by It! 

To go into all the prismatic details of Moralioglu's inspiration actually dulls shine of this supremely moving and emotionally full collection. To simply witness and absorb the mastery of Erdem's craft here seen through a Mirror Darkly this season, was to be windswept to an enchanted forest of sorts... Where Angels and Demons Played in the shadows, Hiding and Seeking one another! It is rare for a designer to create such a Complex Play of Feeling and Substance and not have it Devolve into some Academic and Dry Treatise. This was As Much Whimsical as it was ever so slightly Sinister. What an Enthralling Combination That turned out to be! 










That's All.










Bye4Now!




To My Wonderful Readers...

Tues. 02/04/2014.



Hello Dear Readers...

I am not going to finish Blogging for S/S 2014 before the F/W 2014 shows start, but I promise I will try to be posting live By Sunday and will try to be caught up on all the action by then. Please Bear with me and Stay the course with me... I appreciate all of you. More than you Know! I am trying to get done as fast as possible... if i run a little behind, know that I am going to get this DONE! ;-)



Yours Sincerely,


Terrill Lawrence Sanford.

Monday, February 3, 2014

Christopher Kane.

Mon. 09/16/2013.











What can I say? The Critics loved this show. I, Did not. It had Highs and It had Lows and the Lows outweighed the Highs Disproportionately! I can't for the life of me see what all the fuss is about. Starting with an Idea of "Sterilized Petals" in Curved Teardrop cutouts, the trope grew tiresome, REAL QUICK! By the 5th or 6th iteration it was already too much. It looked Cheap and Tacky! I know there was some interestingly difficult construction there, but Kane's tendency towards the Pedestrian makes his clothes look Tawdry and Unsophisticated. And for Spring 2014 they looked more downmarket than ever! 

First Off... Kane needs to SERIOUSLY Refine his Cutting and Fitting Skills or Shoot his Premier D'Atelier! Because the fit and cut on most of these outfits were GOD AWFUL and  made many of the Super Slender Models look Lumpy and Misshapen! And next, Better Fabrics. Even if they were High End, which they didn't look like they were, he treated them to look so Offensively Meretricious that it sank the collection like a sack full of stones! I refuse to talk about those Atrocities that were the footwear!

The collection seemed to flit between Complex and hopelessly Matronly. Granny Dressing with no youth edge to it. And then it Devolved into Maladroit Draping and Swagging of fabrics which served no purpose than to make already Tragic clothes more Tragic! It ended on an even more Curiously Misguided notion with blown up flowers and textbook illustrations that again, Dumbfounded. 

I am not aware of what magic spell Kane has cast on the Fashion Throng, But it's not one that held me in it's thrall. His collection was An error in judgement, Start to End. What can be taken away from this disheveled mess is that Kane has some serious reflecting to do if, In MY Book, he wants to be taken seriously! Because this collection was an Epic Joke! Of The Unfunny Variety! 










That's All.











Bye4Now.




Antonio Berardi.

Mon. 09/16/2013.











Somehow The Psychedelic Furs and Pictures of a Young Molly Ringwald were brought to mind by this collection of Antonio Berardi which was quite fully of the "Pretty In Pink" Frame of Mind! With all the Pink shades that abounded from the Palest Blush to Deepest Cherry Pink, the collection resonated with the giddiest of all colours but when used in the Sensual and Architectural ways that Berardi used them... The Shades had no Connotations of Girlishness or of the Saccharine Ilk. 

Opening with the most Ideal proposition seen in many a year on the Hi-Lo hemline, Berardi actually made it look viable for the Red Carpet set as well as the Everyday, That being if your everyday consisted of a Personal Driver and Lunch At Le Cirque! Here, Berardi's Deft Hand and Expertise in cut rendered the Hemline Fluid, Liquid and Leggy! Exit No. 4 was a Supreme example of Berardi's Luxurious side rendered sporty with zippers and lavish Crystal Encrustation! 

Another Sublime Exit early on... Exit No. 7 in the form of a Puffed up Motorcycle Jacket turned coat in a Ice Pink Leopard Damask worn with a brief Sugar Almond Pink Zip front dress! From there things began to grow more Complex but still seemed as Natural and Unfettered as could be. The colour blocking of various shades of Pink from Cherry to Coral and Bubblegum were all thrown together in wildly divergent combinations and textures. Soon Black begin to insert itself into the mix. As the show neared It's End there were a few All Black Exits that had the Hautest Hauteur and Gave Great Drama! The Best, Exit No. 39 consisting of a Very Balenciaga Croco Cloque Blouson top and long Fishtail hem Column Skirt... Morticia Adams for the 21st Century! 

When it was all said and done, One was captivated at how Antonio has Honed his craft and become such a recognizable voice in the fashion world where once he was seen as the Brash Upstart that might knock that previous Enfant Terrible, Lee Alex off his Perch and along the way, lost his way while Alex's way Seem to Crystallize in front of him and led him to some of the most amazing work of the New Millennium... Berardi has regained the Promethean spark of Brilliance that Hallmarked his work Oh so many years ago and now is fighting form once more!

Producing Such Masterful collections as this will keep him at the forefront of the Fashion and even though now he may prefer now to speak in a more quiet voice than the loud and brash one of days of old, that voice nonetheless is Deep, Resonant and Powerful! 










That's All.









Bye4Now!

Jonathan Saunders.

Sun. 09/15/2013.











70's meets 90's seems a mini trend on the runways of Spring 2014. Jonathan Saunders is working that vibe with a distinct eye towards the modern version of what that would look like in his collection for S/S 2014. There was something of that Cool Cali vibe that has been peek-a-booing itself here and there for Spring (Most Notably at Tommy Hilfiger) and was given a more Intellectual bent here at Saunders.

His colour combos had the distinct feel of the 70's with an almost "Brady Bunch" Colour Wheel In Use. Ochres and Browns mixed with Sapphire and Purple and Even More.... every colour of the Rainbow curried favour here... and it was only with Saunders Masterful hand that they never did err on the grotesque. Marrying Berry with Camel, Caramel and Cocoa in the opening exit in less assured hands could have been Queasy-making in the utmost, here it had a 70's Interior design Aesthetic that was shocking in it's boldness but seemed quite familiar and charming. Changing those 70's notions into 90's hallmark pieces such as bermuda/board shorts and a Moto jacket were the genius of the colourations!

Patchworking has been a flavour of the season also and showed up here in Magnificent Form. Patching together sheer and solid, Embroidered and Printed, Shiny and Matte... It was all Dazzlingly Complicated! But achieved with an ease and sportiness that kept it from being tricky! There was truly an abundance of Incredible Technique on show here and it was used to Splendiferous Effect!

Especially Intriguing were the tracery floral embroideries, They were risky however they had and ephemerality to them that was Tres Charmant! A couple of Varsity jackets with naive floral embroidery on the front panels balanced the Sporty and the Haute in rewarding ways!

Finding a Niche of Cool Bohemian for the Modern world to work in, Saunders produced a Stunning if somewhat more low-key affair for him but what it did not have in Fireworks it had in Mesmerizing Technical facility and a Eye to Colour that is Unparalleled. Dissection of the entire collection would render it no more wondrous than simply viewing it and absorbing it's magical charms would!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Matthew Williamson.

Sun. 09/15/2013.











Matthew Williamson spoke of "Maturing" and that his Core Clientele Girls are "Growing Up" well Even if she is, she has that Wild-Child streak still in her. She may be sublimating it because she now may have a Husband, Some Kids, not living off of Daddy's Money anymore... but she still is the women who takes Ibiza, Ipanema and India (Specifically Goa!) with here wherever she goes! Hothouse Colours, Embellished Day wear, Some Boho Accessories! She may be Grown up, But She ain't DEAD! 

To that end, The clothes wafted less and were constructed more and and felt more polished. It even opened with a Well-Appointed Pantsuit, It may have been in the most Blazing shade of Coral Seen in a long time, but again, Williamson's woman is no Shrinking Violet!  She also loves her Embroidery, Exit No. 3 paired a Simple Coral Blouse with a Amphora shape skirt in Varying degrees of Pink, Lavishly encrusted with Beads and Small Flowers. Quite Magical! Exit No. 10 was also Generously Smothered in Embroidery in the form of a Ladylike belted Dress in Lace with White Flowers affixed! 

From there on out the collection moved from Uptown to Beach and Back again. Alighting finally onto a Dragonfly Print section that led to the Beautiful Final exits. One, Exit No. 33 was so Devastatingly beautiful that it could have doubled as a Wedding gown. In The Palest Mist Grey and gently gilded with White embroidery it was Sophisticated and Glamourous and Sublime! 

Matthew Williamson has done some growing himself and his collection has reaped the benefits of such maturing. He has been known too long for his Party Girl attire and now that same girl has become a Woman... But like all the best party girls, And Williamson himself, There's Always A Party in your Heart! 









That's All.










Bye4Now!


Mary Katrantzou.

Sun. 09/15/2013.











Shoes. As Inspiration. For... PRINTS??? Maybe not so much! It was a Hard job to pull off to not make Katrantzou's Famously Tropme L'Oeil Realistic Prints of SHOES not come off a little Gimmicky. Not only that, They never seemed to hit the right places on the body in the way they were engineered and for the most part, looked unsettling and unflattering. The eye was just going to places and mashing up details that shouldn't be mashed up together, giving a Garish feel to many of the outfits. 

Not that it missed the mark in every exit, Exit No. 6 was Quite perfect with it's shiny Wingtip print in Oxblood consisting of a short jacket and flippy pleated skirt with a Ruffle arcing it's way over one hip. It's when she started mixing Trainers with a Somewhat, Vaguely Tropical Floral print that things got WAY out of hand.

Blissfully, She saved herself and the collection with the experimental volumes of the Lesage enhanced printed finale. With their Oversized Ruffles and Balloon Shapes They had the hand of A Couturiere In them from top to hem. The Riotous Colours and Combinations of Floral Prints and Embroideries were Hypnotic in their Complexity and Daring. They had a Cartoonish feel to them that made them all that more difficult to NOT notice! Katrantzou showed an almost Lagerfeldian Hand with the Juxtapositions of Fabric and Elaborate Rebrodee. They were not only Brilliant, They were Otherworldly!

If the entire collection had been riffs on these final evening (Could they possibly also be worn for day? Mayhaps!) and giving more thought to how to transform that idea, it might have been a collection for the history books! Yet, with that Inexplicable opening set... The collection never was able to spread it wings and fly. Dismally, It lay Grounded to the earth that those shoes that she so dumbfoundingly used for prints trod on!










That's All.










Bye4Now!











Topshop Unique And Paul Smith.

Sun. 09/15/2013.











Ah... The Good Ol' Days of Grunge! Lollapalooza and Lillith Fair and Granny Dresses and Dr. Martens and the Always Ubiquitous Plaid Flannel Lurking somewhere. Somehow, Topshop managed to Laser Focus in on the Ether of that era and yet project it into a totally Modern Mould. 

It was a fun showing. Nothing Earth-Shattering, Just Charming Clothes for Hot Young Things. Suede was transformed into a Jean Jacket in the opening exit while it transformed into a chic coat a few exits later. A Cerulean Blue shirt dress at Exit No. 8 had that grunge factor thing going strong... Sans Birkenstocks... 

A section of that 90's Phenom, The Slip dress, was one of the highlights of the show and actually made them the most viable looking so far this season, An especially pretty one was Exit No. 24 in a Marigold Burnout silk. Topshop has a good formula to build on and play with and this outing was a Giddy romp. Playful, Retro, and a successful merging of 90's era freedom and modern Sportif that was will keep the Topshop gal well appointed in her Hip, Hot Girl Attire! 











Sir Paul Smith is One of the Old Guard of London Fashion and like most of the Old Guard, he is Younger at heart than all the new Whippersnappers on the London Fashion Week Circuit! He showed in his Spring 2014 collection his ability to Show that Youth, Vitality and Esprit tempered with the Wise, Mature Sense of a man who has been at the epicenter of all that is London Fashion since the Heyday of the Fab Four and Mary Quant. 

This gives Smith the flexibility to shift in many directions all at once and still keep the big picture in focus. If there was anything to be taken away as the Definitive Statement of the collection it was that in the House that Smith built, Loose, Louche Pants were the Catch of the Day! There may have been some Loud voices speaking up for all the Mannish blazers but the pants were the items that reaped the richest rewards, most often when NOT paired with a Blazer.

Count the Best Exit of the Show... The White Masterpiece at Exit No. 6 that had a Relaxed YSL Sensuality to it with a more Urban than Urbane Patina. It was Sexy in a Pantheress Way, Swaggering But still Graceful! Exit No. 18 was toeing that same line but with a little more Country frilliness to give it less attitude and more girlish aplomb but still Dead Sexy even though the pants were cut in a Patchwork of Fluid Denim.

Exit No.27 also showed the wonderful way Smith had with pants this time the vibe was more Miami Nice than Slithering and Sexy in the Sunniest Yellow trousers one could imagine with the giant sized floral print that cropped up late in the show cut into a mannish Shirt.  And... at Exit No. 28 the T-shirt dress reared it's familiar head again cut out of that same Gorgeous Print! 

The Message may have been muddied a little lack of focus but the basic principal... Sunny Colour, Sexy Pants, Masculine/Feminine Dichotomy and a couple other ideas thrown in the mix for good measure, kept the Vital Heartbeat of the collection pumping. And again, Many of the New guard would have crumbled trying to fit so many ideas into one collection and not make it look like a disastrous Mess... Sir Paul Handled it like the Pro he is! 










That's All.










Bye4Now!