Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Helmut Lang.... Forever Cool

Friday: 02-08-2013

Helmut Lang:

Remember when There was Nothing More Essentially Modern and Cool Than Helmut Lang in Fashion!?!? He and He Alone worked that Effortlessly Conceptual Modernistic Cool vibe like no one's Business... back in the 90's when my tastes were less... MATURED... and all I loved was Chanel and Versace and Ferre at Dior... I Thought Helmut should have been strung up by his very big and beefy toes and Horsewhipped! Again... My tastes were not fully formed as they are now and I can appreciate his Deft, Languid sense of Modernity and Yes... COOL!

WELL.... Nicole and Michael Colovos have seemed to tap back into that Vein of Modern Cool That Olde Helmut Used to mine so Brilliantly! The collection they Colovos' Put forth for Fall/Winter 2013 Positively Crackled With Excitement and a look towards the Future of Fashion. The Inspiration was Picasso Cubism, And it was handled with Enthusiasm and with Discretion as well... from the mixed Media of the Opening outfits to the More Loudly Aggressive Black/White graphic print pieces that followed... After that what shone was the Skillful Tailoring of the Lang Workrooms... The Coats and Suits and Slim, Sexy Pants that were shown throughout were Standouts and made to Covet! Exit No. 10 In particular was Insanely Drool Worthy and A MUST-Have for Next Fall, a Slim Minimalistic Black coat with hidden closures and a fold down collar of fur in Black was Endearingly Simple and Monastic but Quietly Powerful! There was more Mixed Media Exits in either Black Leather and Black Fabric or reinventions of Picasso's Cubist works in White with Tan or A beautiful Marine Blue/Grey/Striped Black And White... there even was a kinda Comic Ode to Talking Heads in Exit No. 23 with a Overtly Padded White Jacket that was quite reminiscent of David Byrne's Famous Hugely Oversized Blazer Costume from the 80's. The Hits Kept Coming... Exit No. 28, A Stone Coloured Trench with Buff Leather Sleeves... A Perfect Little Boxy black jacket with an Asymmetrical Skirt at Exit No. 37... A SHARP Drop waist Tuxedo Jacket Ensemble in Exit No. 39 and the Finale Pieces, Glittering with Black "Cubist" Sections of Beads were also a Very Fashion Forward way of dressing for evening! And the last gown was actually Drop Dead Sexy!  Cool and Modern. Forward and Chic! More could certainly not be asked for!

That's All...


Cushnie et Ochs... Going Where No MAN Has Gone...

Friday 02-08-2013

Cushnie et Ochs:

Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs Presented one of the Absolutely Strongest Collections of the Fall/Winter 2013/2014 season with Effortless Ease and Sophistication and a Certain new Classicism to their usually overtly MODERNE Vocabulary! Stunning was a word to be used with Aplomb in this collection as well ans Beautiful, Daring, Sharp, Sexy, Elegant and Tasteful!

It Started with White On White with Icy Proto-Punk/Hitchcock Blondes with Shadowy, Smouldering Eyes and Berry Stained Lips and was Clinically Clean and Stark, Spooky Almost in that Greatest of McQueen ways! Melissa Tammerijn came out Second in an outfit that showed only legs in the skin department but was Coolly covered from Neck to wrist in blinding white in a Turtleneck and sleeveless dress combo that was Killer Simple But Deadly Accurate! Next, A Most UTTERLY Desirable White Co-Jack (Coat-Jacket) that was the HEIGHT of Minimal yet Incomparably Maximal with it's Yeti White fur lining. Precise is too lackluster a word to describe the outfit that was composed of that jacket/coat and dress under... Then Ruby Aldridge Strolled out in  Ultra-Modern Utilitarian White Wide pants and Short Sleeved Shirt, WINNING!

From there the show Progressed from one Strength to the next and one Marvellous Outfit after another, keeping the Edit short and sweet, we were left wanting so much more, but got just what was enough to get us high... More Winners... Exit No. 7, A Green Jersey Dress that Showed off just slices of Collarbone and Thigh and Insinuated more than any garment has a right to... Exit No. 9 in a slightly darker shade of Green Jersey with a deep neck and self collar that had just the right amount of Costello Tagliapietra about it to show that these ladies have some serious drapee skills! Exit No. 11 SINISTER! A Sleek Limning Sheath of Black with an Innovative Pointed Neckline that was Spy Sexy in that Bond-Girl Kinda way and stuck to the ribs more than Grandma's Mac and Cheese! Exit No. 14 needs to be Photographed IMMEDIATELY By Bazaar or Vogue because it was the Scene Stealer of the collection... A Cropped black Kangaroo Suede Jacket with Oversized collar worn over a Black Long Sleeve Turtleneck and a Slim Slip of a skirt in the most    Scintillatingly Moody print of sun peeking through a canopy of trees that hit the floor and left a short trail of fabric in it's wake. The Pulse RACED at this Piece of Glorious Fashion! There was More, SO MUCH MORE, but it would take days to properly espouse the Fabulousness of it all! But a few parting Shots, The 2 final Evening Gowns were Sexy With a Capital SEX and were not in the slightest Trampy or even Vampy for that matter but the Black Coat with Fur Lining over the Leather Blouse and High Waist Flannel Trousers.... That Had YSL Louche written all over it and the master himself couldn't have done it better!

That's All....


Rag & Bone. Friday 02/08

On Friday Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, Design team of Rag and Bone, showed their Collection and even though there was some ambivalence with the collection, that is not the reason it did not resonate with me... (More on that Ambivalence as the season progresses, now it's just a thought later to be expounded upon!)

Rag & Bone:

Sporty and Utilitarian are kinda the touchstones of Rag & Bone who usually are a Go-To Collection for some Great Sporty Sportswear with a Bit of English Quirk Thrown in... This collection though... fell short, just as their Spring Collection did to quicken the Pulse or Give us anything really Fresh to look at. It felt, for Marcus and David, New, but not inspired! That they even conceived the idea of and let it Flourish to Wink at the PLATINUM Standard of all Fashion Icons... the Chanel Tweed Jacket, Floundered not only Ludicrously but in much of a way, Insultingly! They have Neither the Pedigree or the Technical Knowledge to Deconstruct that Most Perfect of Fashion Objets! Barring that, it was a childishly comic wink that as an opener gave clue to what was about to go on. 

Let's be Frank, OK? The Collection...Was Dull.

The Most Remarkable thing about the collection was the Styling with the Short-Short Hemlines and the Silk Stockings the Models Wore. That was actually Refreshing and had it not been for that the collection would have suffered more! The Preciseness of their English Saville Row Inspired Tailoring was Keenly on display in some Prince of Wales Checks and a Dashing Dimetap Purple Blazer. A Quicksilver Blue coat on Caroline Brasch Neilsen was Quite Desirable for it's utter clean simplicity... but in saying all that the collection still failed to raise the pulse in any convincing way. It was a Gainful effort, and less clunky than usual, however it was also just baldly uninspiring! This is quite unusual and very disconcerting, the last couple collections have suffered in some way or the other, whether from just being Overwrought as fall '12 was or just being hopelessly contrived and overly tricked out as Spring '13 was... Wainwright and Neville Need to get back on the Track that they had so successfully put themselves on with earlier collections and recapture some of that Chic, Utilitarian British cool that was so much a key to their success... until then... we will just have to pick and choose amongst the detritus for something that resonates.

That's All...


Wednesday, February 13, 2013

From Last Friday... Yigal Azrouel and St. John.

Starting Off Afresh with the Shows from 02/08...

Yigal Azrouel:

A Sharp, Strict, Urban and Tough Chic Collection that seemed to Hit all the right notes in all the right ways! From the First Exit, A Severe Black Coat with Sleeves that Zipped off at the Bicep and gave the wearer a whole new look for the garment and that was one of Azrouel's Major tropes for the collection and were all done in Contrast to the Body of the Item... Contrast Sleeves and Bodices were also another Major point in this collection and gave Freshness and a little Variety to many of the Body Concious Looks! There were some FINELY Cut and Interesting looking Suits this season and the suit seems to be coming back strong this season as well as some Beautiful Outerwear! Exit No. 14 was of Special Interest as it was a deep Bordeaux Cape with the armhole closed by those same zippers that connected the sleeves of the Jackets and was ESPECIALLY Tres Modable! Also to Covet, Exit No. 20... A Deep Caramel Coloured Topcoat with a hidden button closure that just screamed to be in a woman's Must Have Fall wardrobe! And Exit No. 29 was A Major Gasp Moment... Pristine White on White... As easily a day outfit as it could be a Cocktail option or a Stunning Evening look for a Urban Tough Girl on her way Uptown! Alana Zimmer in the Final Exit was wearing a Gown that Radiated Chic with Grit and Edge, The kinda gown that would be Especially Fetching on Angelina or Rihanna... It was Body-Con to the Nth Degree and Sleek, Sexy, Modern and All Evening without the Pageantry or Pomp. It was COOL! Many evening gowns never even get the chance to see that Moniker with a Telescope!

St. John:

Like I mentioned in a Previous Post about Kate Spade, Greg Myler's Sure hand and Fully realized Signature for St. John should be held on one of the Lincoln Center runways for Spring. This collection was as good and was BETTER than much that is already being shown on the runway! It was Perfectly Styled for his Fall theme which had a distinct 40's Vision of the Brooding Strong Woman A La Lauren Bacall and Veronica Lake with a Soupcon of Marlene Dietrich thrown in! The collection moved away from the Knit-Centric Yesteryear when The St. John's ran things, Nostalgic and Fun as those days were... this is for Pity's Sake 2013. Something HAD to Change. The biggest change, FOR THE BETTER, the non-reliance on the Famous St. John Knit for it's New Hauteur! the best outfits were the deceptive ones... ones that were the house knit but looked like woven as in the case of a Damn Sharp Olive Military jacket that looked like Wool, worn with beaded trousers! Nouvelle Vague Indeed! Or the Tobacco Fur Coat with Leather sleeves belted at the waist... The Asymmetric Cobalt Wrap Cape Coat was one of the best pieces seen so far this season in it's Flat Brushed Flannel Fabrication, Just DIVINE! There were also some outfits that strained a little to be more Offhand and less pristine and it injected some welcome slouch and ease into the collection but they were not really necessary! They were Fine, Thank You Please and Kindly, but the collection was Mining so much Gold that it didn't need the Iron Sulfide of these looks! but there were Two Stunners that Fully Realized the past and the Legitimately Fashionable Future of St. John.. one the Long Knit jersey like Evening skirt in Black with the White Filmy, Silky High-Neck Blouse that was EFFORTLESSLY Sexy without showing but one tiny slash of skin at the blouse's Keyhole neck... and the other... one that could have walked down any major runway, from Kors to De La Renta to Herrera and would have fit in no question... the Mouth Dropping, Scintillating Deep Aqua Satin Bias gown with the one shoulder Drape. Just Look at it and tell me it isn't worth whatever St. John is Charging for it!?!? We all Know That when the ladies who St. John their Wardrobes to death step into the Boutiques they are going to find riffs on these ideas in the good old Reliable Stolid SJK Knit and are going to be happy that those old Hoary standbys will have a TOUCH of the new look Myler is injecting... if He is anything other than IQ-Less he won't try to Redefine the entire Engine of the St. John Machine... he'll simply keep designing the way he is and Upping the ante on the true Fashion Quotient of the House and when those Gals who don't already own every possible permutation of St. John suit and dress in their wardrobes step in a Boutique they will be comforted to find that Myler is giving them Of-The-Minute Fashion... and The rest will take care of itself... proving,

If You Design It, They Will Come!

That's All...


Tuesday, February 12, 2013

The New Jason Wu.... Better than the Old????

First. Let me just say this.... I LOVE JASON WU! LOVE LOVE LOVE His Stuff! He is the New Guard like Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors and Isaac Mizrahi And Todd Oldham were back in the 80's/90's! He is AN AMAZING DESIGNER (And Please, Finish that Fragrance, Buster! :-D  We KNOW it's gonna Smell DELICIOUS!)  But in Saying that.....

This was NOT his Best Collection For Fall/Winter 2013/2014.

I don't LIKE saying that, but sometimes the truth hurts, and like i told an old flame last year, Being told the truth, even if it's painful, if it is being told out of love, Is never a Bad thing, because lying would be more hurtful! Now, Granted Fashion is SUBJECTIVE, Every one sees one collection in different ways (how else to explain the Mystery of the Adoration of the Ghesquiere.... I SHUDDER!! URGHHH!) But, Sometimes, It just doesn't all Coalesce into something Perfect. This was one of those times.

It had the Germ of a Remarkable collection ready to Sprout, but in some ways... it just felt, Gosh... FORCED! There has always been something so Effortlessy Fluid about Wu's Work, the Exquisite Technique and Wunderkind Talent have always served his clothes SO Well, But here... and this is where the train jumps the tracks... Here in his effort to "TOUGHEN" up his Aesthetic, which last season Blossomed Like Roses in the sun, This time it felt, Cold. Lifeless. As if the clothes had no pulse! The "TOUGH"-Ness Drowned out the Sweet Harmonic Womanliness that has always made his Clothes Like Catnip to the women who buy them Here... it was devoid of any of that Lyrical sweetness, Suppressed into Nothingness and replaced by A Good idea, but Bad Execution! Now, Let us not be so quick as to recognize the Beauties that lay within this Labyrinth, for there were many.  The First Exit had a James Bond as Jane Bond Appeal to it that was Palpable... Strong, Sexy, A little Naughty and a little Dangerous! The whole of the Opening Section in Black, White. Charcoal and FUR had that appeal and will be FLYING Off the racks and inundating Stores with orders for them! One of my FAVES was Exit No. 9, The Dress with Black Sleeves and Snakeskin Print Chiffon Body worn over the CRISP Ferre-ish White Blouse... MAGIC! But that outfit was also in the category of one of the things LUDICROUSLY wrong with this collection! but more on that later... Exit No. 14 had LOVE Written all over it as well, the Lace Veiled Clear Plastic Trench with again, White Shirt Underneath. Per-Fect-Ion! But this Lace Veiled/Printed Section also posed some of the toughest Outfits to Digest. Julia Nobis' Exit (No. 16) is of note, not only because SHE IS THE DRABBEST Thing EVAH, but because the Beautiful Suit was made... SILLY with the Black Panels... Just Unnecessary!
Exit No. 20 was DEADLY Precise and Perfect, the Red Side Asymetric Zipped Short Coat! MUST HAVE! But then... Things got a little too.... Olivier Rousteing For it's own good. There was a Distinct Taste of Balmain here and it didn't make for interesting or particularly Wu-Like Fashion! Not that certain Fashion elements are EXCLUSIVE to Certain designers but certain things become associated with them and that Balmain Flavour was More than Distinct! Exit No. 26 was also, MAJEUR! Just The Perfect Combo of Tough Luxe and Gentle Femme! it was perhaps the Evocation of his collections theme in a nutshell!

But it was PRECISELY After that Exit that the whole thing fell apart, Save for Cora Emmanuel's STUNNER (Exit No. 38) The Show Didn't Devolve, Nor did it lose, Per se, Cohesion. It just Faltered. A Couple of reasons... One, Those Signature Feather Dresses... felt Hackneyed this time... they didn't inspire a feeling of Whimsy. they just seemed... Rote. Par for the Jason Wu Course! And Second... For a Fall/Winter Collection... there was too much Chiffon and Short Dresses... not that really a woman who Buys and Can afford Jason Wu needs to worry about the Elements so much, but it looked... out of place and Inappropriate! Too Short, Too Filmy, Too lightweight and Insubstantial! And Thirdly... Those Closing Gowns... Over the Pants... To Quote Alex from "A Clockwork Orange" HORROR SHOW! The truly were not Flattering or Inspirational nor Aspirational! They Just looked... Clunky, Droopy and I hate to say, Ill-Conceived. Not Strong and also Not Very Feminine Either.

All in All a GOOD Effort, Not his best, Not even CLOSE, but There were some Covetable pieces in there... Just i think Wu should step back and Temper his Desire to "Toughen" up his women with some Discretion and Some Wisdom, Wisdom that says, he shouldn't abandon his Signatures to Quell his Inner Searching about of his identity! No one wants to see him Stagnate, but no one also wants to see him Flounder about in the Muck!  I am sure the Jason Wu Bus will be back on the right path next season... he just needs to Consult his Fashion GPS!

That's All...


Quick Reviews: Edun & Kate Spade.

Hello Again. This Blog Stuff is Hard! LOL! But I am trying to play some catch up here before i get to far behind... (want to Post Weds. Morn RIGHT after The Michael Kors Show, So tomorrow may be a Marathon Session when i get home!) But here are a couple more...

Firstly, I love the Juxtaposition of these two shows being reviewed on the same blog and know that they could not be More Opposite if they tried, but where as one would think one of these shows the obvious Success, it, to me at least, is just not the case. That said Case, In Point....


Bono and His wife of EONS Ali Hewson created this Label and Installed Sharon Wauchob as the Designer... Ok, Instant Cool Right...??? I mean, FOR CHRIST'S SAKE.... IT'S BONO! but even though this collection did drip Instant Cool (and i do love the Current Ad Campaign with the Elephant) This collection was more like Just Drippy. AND Droopy. And Really, Not a lot of fun! It was... Seriously URBAN with a Capital UR! But it came off, Haphazard and Thrown together and not in that Good Ole John Galliano Way (YES! I MENTIONED HIM!) The First Exit on Julia Nobis (Unlike Lindsay Wixon, I don't think this DRAB, Pale Ghost of a Thing will EVER Grow in me!) was Particularly Punky Cool and Augered well for the rest of the Show, A Acid Yellow/Black Tweed suit with Leather Accents over leather leggings with black contrast sleeves... Check and Mate. But after that, things went... Shall we just say... Inelegant! The cool Punk Vibe began to Fizzle almost Immediately, Let's Face Unless you're Dame Westwood or The poor departed Lee Alex McQueen, there isn't much you can do with punk that doesn't look silly if you don't twist it somehow... and Utilitarian, Altuzarra-esque looks aren't going to cut it. Some Nice Pieces. SURE.... But few and far betwixt and between! It all just looked Haphazard and Thrown Together and Sadly... Uninspired! Like some kinda Rag & Bone Warehouse closeout sale, and That doesn't sound Awe-Inspiring no matter HOW you phrase it! BTW, The Menswear on the other hand Rocked The Casbah in that Punk Strong Way that the Clash (see what i did there! ;-) ) Would have appreciated Greatly! Wauchob Just Missed the Mark and to Quote Founder Bono.... Faraway, So Close!

Kate Spade:

Now this Show made me SMILE! Full On, Out and Out Smile! It was so Blithely Unconcerned with Making a "FASHION" Statement that it in it's own LOUD and Quirky way did EXACTLY That! Citing all things New York, Deborah Lloyd almost Kinetically and Accidentally Found A Gold Mine of Fun, Colourful, Exciting and certainly Nudge, Nudge, Wink, Wink Witty Fashion that any woman stopping in her local Kate Spade Store looking for a Bag is gonna come out with Plenty of Great Fashion for her trip there! The Outfits were for One... VERY Well Constructed and that was obvious to even the most untrained of eyes, were they going to Blow the Couture out of the water in their execution and brilliance. Ummm... HELL NO! But for what they were, Modern Sportswear Separates, They had INSTANT Appeal! Where to Start... How About... The Shaggy Mongolian Lamb Looking Bolero with the White Peter-Pan Collar Blouse and the Softly full sleeves with the WIDE Flared Trousers that looked Just DI-VINE! Very YSL at Studio 54! How about, Say, The head-to-toe Floral Brocade Outfit of Coat, Top and Cropped Trousers that SCREAMED Todd Oldham's Name Loudly but wasn't Brash or Ostentatious! (And Yes, It had a Matching Bag!) The Neat And Perfectly Trim Grey Tweed Flannel Shorts Suit that can go literally... ANYWHERE! The Riotous Betsey Johnson-esque Polka Dot Strapless Peplum top and Skirt with the Pink tights and WHITE Shoes! Bloody Hilarious! I Could go on and on... but i will say that it was one Damn Exciting and Magical Outfit after another!

My Faves... A Pyramid Studded Cardigan Coat in Black with Gold Studs... A Beige Coat with a Belt loop closure Built into it at a High Waist with a Fur collar worn with Leopard Print Skinny pants... On Grace Bol A Knowing Winking Nod again to YSL with his Famous Bow Neck Blouses, this time in Fluo Pink and the bow exaggerated to Gigantic and Comic Proportions But still, VERY Chic worn over SCARLET Red pants and a Candy Coloured Tweedy Overcoat! There was as much Ladylike and Elegant and Uptown as there was just Comically Perfect in this WINNER of a Collection... next Season, Ms. Lloyd should take it to the Runways at Lincoln Center, if this is the kind of clothes she can produce than there is a place for her amongst the Big Boys and Girls! One of my Faves so far!

That's All...


Monday, February 11, 2013

The Return of Kenneth Cole.

On Thursday Night, Kenneth Cole got his Runway Groove Back and didn't Need a young Jamaican Man to help him... Or maybe he did. WHO KNOWS!?! But whatever the case, He didn't seem to have been out of the loop as many who haven't shown on the runways in SEVEN long years might have done. He has restructured his Business, and come out at fighting weight with a Serious Collection full of Modernist, Downtown, Urban Chic! He is out for the Champion Belt with a Collection that in it's Quest to acclimate itself into the Social Media Fabric (Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook, et al..) which Burgeoned while he was away from the runways, made a Rather Hard Edge Statement about the way Kenneth's Woman wants to dress in this Instant. Of course, like Technology and Media... the next statement will be of that minute and totally new as per the Mercurial nature of both the fashion Industry and the Tech World!

But the collection, Well. It was In My Opinion. Really Great! The only thing one could say negative that in the rush to find how Ken's Aesthetic and Style fit into the New Landscape of Fashion that his collection Bordered a LITTLE on the Reed Krakoff/Helmut Lang Side with a Little Alexander Wang Dolloped on top! To be expected... Yes. Because if you're going to Plow a Furrow of Modern Downtown Urban Chic, then those are the current touchstones! He embraced those Codes and Thoroughly tricked and kitted them out to suit his vision... which is why i think the collection succeeded so! Some of the best looks though hitched Modern together with Classic in New Innovative ways that truly surprised! Outfit No. 16 on Alana Zimmer... A TERRIBLY Chic Cutaway Coat with No Collar and NO BLOUSE over a skinny Knit Pencil Skirt that could have looked Clunky with it's below the knee length but managed to look Fresh, Modern and New! Or Outfit No. 24 another Sleek Cutaway look this time a Jacket over a Tuxedo Styled Blouse and A Hi-Low Skirt in Feathery Light Lace! AMAZING! Looked Quirky and Strong and Femme All at the same time! The Tough Looks of the Textured Leathers and Other fabrics Were the Dimension that brought Modernity to the Fore as well as most of the looks in the first 2/3 were Black and White and Subtle Variations thereof... Which kept the look Spare Clean and Lean! A poetic Foulard Print found it's way in and offered a Subtle more Romantic Lilt to some of the outfits, but even then, the cuts were Of the Moment and Sharp, Not Floaty or Wan!

By outfit 41 we had Soujourned into Colour, Muted though it was, it offered a Relief from the Monotone pallette thus far. and it was Assuredly one of the best outfits in the Show! In Olive, It was Sportif and Very Uptown! it was definitely a Photo Op Outfit! Grace Mahary's Final Exit was a WOW Moment as well, A Full easy Buttery soft leather skirt in a Indistinguishable shade of Dark Blue with a Cropped and Totally Covetable Black leather Perfecto with a Cumin Coloured Top peeking out from under... Just HOT! The Oxblood Pieces that ended the show were a Dynamic Tension release for the Taut collection and just the thing to refresh the eye! The Men's Outfits... They were Typically Desirable. Great Suits, Delicious Outerwear, All the things a Man Needs next Fall/Winter for a Winning Wardrobe.

So, In the End... Magnificent Effort. The DNA of Kenneth Cole wasn't fully on display here, but he's getting his legs back after being away for awhile... it might take a season or so for him to hit his true stride and have his Signature Shine through loud and clear, Fun, Cerebral, Urban, Chic Sportswear for The Modern But Classic Woman and Man. But this should entice his customer simply for the DARE of it all! ;-) And to be noticed in Fashion after a good long Hibernation... You MUST Dare!

That's All...


Thursday, February 7, 2013

Costello Tagliapietra. Spectacular, Spectacular!

It Started with an Outfit of Quiet, Almost 40's Like Precision! A Warm and Inviting Teddy Bear Collar Coat  (Only right for the Handsomest Teddy Bears in Fashion, Wouldn't you say!??! ;-) ) it had a Louche Insouciance as it was closed over the Pure, Exquisite Fluidity of the Deep Burnt Orange Jersey Dress Flowing underneath! It was a New Moment for the Gruff, Bearish Gentleman with the Big Paws and Most Decidedly DELICATE Touch in those Paws Of Any Designer In NY! The Sublimely, Blissfully, Enchantingly Beautiful Drapes and Folds and Ruches these men produce is at times often Scary! Their Knowledge of a woman's body is almost Clinically perfect! After the opening Exit we were given More Jersey Magnificence in a Pale Grape Ballet Neck Wrap Bodice Dress that was coloured Underneath in a wildly differing shade! It Was Simply, Magical! It is this Beautiful, Wizard like Construction that makes Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra's Work so Ablaze with Feminine Charm! Their women are never wafting in these Masterpieces, these clothes are their accomplices in their Powerful Trek through the world and they let them retain all their Womanly Wiles whilst also comforting them and never letting them forget their true power IS Their Femininity!

So, After opening strong, the collection continued on Strong, The Collection really never Wavered Once... it was Small, Compact, To The Point, Deadly Accurate, Like a Stiletto! Nothing Extraneous or Unnecessary! The AirDye Florals were Pretty and Almost Abstractionist in their approach, but were perfect for any Situation, From an Office meeting to Drinks with friends! There were Traditional Chunky Sweaters, which were actually totally new for the duo, A Jumpsuit that only perhaps passingly winked at YSL (The Yves Years, Not Tom or Stefano or Hedi!) A Electric Purple Ballet wrap top with a Fluo Pink Skirt... But Then, Exit No. 15.... HEART STOPPING!!!!! UTTER PRECISION! The Cut of the Snuggly Jacket with it's Hidden Button Closure, The Achingly Gorgeous Juxtaposition of the Colours... The Smart and Flattering fit of the Bi-Colour Trousers... This was DEFINITELY Another Wink to YSL but only to his MAJESTIC Colour sense that has been heretofore unrivaled, Most amazingly in his Tri-Colour Silk Gowns he used to do almost in every collection that consisted of a gown with One colour for the bodice, another for the skirt and always a heavy, yet liquid Sash at the waist in another colour.... this had that same sensibility and it worked as Effortlessly! Even the Jacket was a perhaps a little Nod to that Greatest of Masters...

The Rest of the collection Flowed with their Hallmarks and Showed their Gentle Evolution of Twist and Drape and Flou! The last 3 dresses were Fetching on the highest of orders... and as always, the collection was so perfectly judged and was just enough to have you begging for more... but there was no more. the show was over and you are left with a whimsical, yet cerebral Smile on your face.

Again, Gentleman, You Succeeded by being yourselves and Quietly, Gracefully Evolving your Signatures and Hallmarks and consistently making women look Beautiful and Powerful and Intelligent and Glorified! It's Tough work I Know, But Lord, SOMEONE Has to do it, Right?  Merci, Jeffrey and Robert!

That's All...


Two Quick Reviews.... BCBG Maz Azria & Richard Chai Love.

Keeping these Short,

BCBG Max Azria:

Alright, There wasn't much in this Collection to Write or Rave About. It was a Mismanaged Mishmash of a Disaster. Really. The one High Point were the TRULY BEAUTIFUL Fur toppers on some of the outfits. Otherwise this collection was Mired In The Directionless. Pointless would also be a Good word. Nobody in their right minds, Istanbul Bohemian or No, would want to dress like this! Some High Points, Yes there were a few, Exits 14 and 19... No. 14 A top and Skirt Deep Claret Leather with Laser Crewel like Cutouts was Very Nice and No. 19 had the same feel in White but was actually White Over-Layered on Sheer Black. The Three White Exits near the end Nos. 26, 27 and 28 were Quite interesting and pretty but that was pretty much all that could be said for this collection. This Label seems to have hit a brick wall and has floundered Deeply with coming up with Practical Ideas and Inspiring Material for it's collections. The House needs to hit the Refresh button and come up with something Bold and Beautiful, And PDQ Too!

Richard Chai Love:

Richard Chai's Love collection for this Fall/Winter season was a Unique And Somewhat Eccentric Soujourn into the Androgyne! There was a Unique Peculiarity to the collection that worked in it's Favor, The Girls and Boys all looked quite alike and one could have easily imagined the Women wearing the Men's Exits as Vice Versa! The Muted Colours were not of the Depressing Ilk but surely were Serious and Not Ebullient, Save A Couple Purple Brocade Numbers and the Final 2 outfits in A Purple Royal Enough for Duchess Kate! The Strong Utilitarian Streak running through the collection could have no doubt brought to mind Joseph Altuzarra's SMASHING Spring collection, one had to expect that wave to hit this season after Altuzarra's Triumphant Collection. But this was a Strong and if Not Particularly personal effort for Chai, it was certainly one that would win him Kudos.

That's All.


Juicy Couture Vs. Skaist-Taylor

What Interesting Developments in the World of Le Haute Monde!  Sometimes A label's Designers either quit or get ousted from their lofty posts by overzealous shareholders or controlling interest companies and have to leave the multi-million dollar thrones they so carefully created for themselves. this is true of the Girls Pam and Gela of Skaist-Taylor who Founded Juicy Couture only to move on to their own label. And what a difference a few years and some hindsight make. But you may ask what has happened to Juicy... has it fallen into oblivion and obscurity??? HEAVENS NO! It has a new Creative Director, LeAnn Nealz and is Flourishing in it's new incarnation, retaining the things that made Juicy... JUICY but giving it a somewhat less Deliciously Perverse Flair that Pam and Gela Brought to the Table. Now that the labels are essentially competitors, how do they match up against one another... well if one was tabulating the battles in this war insofar, The Skaist-Taylor Girls are kicking Juicy's Word Emblazoned Heiny all over the Place.

Let's Review, Shall We?

Juicy Couture for Fall/Winter 2013/2014 is Not really much A Fall/Winter collection for much of the world outside of the West Coast and Sub Tropical Areas! The lengths are resolutely Short! the Colours, Positively Sun-Drenched! and the feeling, is Easy, Breezy and Beautiful! Not to say that the young and NOT SO Young women who wear Juicy in big and small cities around the country won't be stepping out in the Lightweight Attractions offered come next fall, but it sees Ms. Nealz has decided that the weather for a Juicy Gal is always Warm. The collection offered little to stimulate the True Fashion Obsessed, but some pieces in their own right were pretty damn Lovely.Outfit 27 was one Particularly Fashion Forward Piece, A Sleeveless Dress in Neon Pink and Black with a Tank Neck and Stitch-Down Pleated Body falling into Release Pleats in the rounded circle skirt of the dress... A Definite Party dress but one that could easily be tamed into a Cocktail Dress on the right girl or even in a different colour! Another, Outfit 38, a Deep Sapphire Blue Lace Dress with a simple thin belt around the waste SCREAMED Discretion and Good taste but also again could be tarted up by the Juicy girl in a matter of seconds, but for what it is... it is a paragon of simple elegant ease in this collection and a dress that could have many lives... with some Pretty Florals and Leopard Prints thrown in with the Track Suits and Solidly designed trenches along the way... The Collection was an easy sell and most women will be able to break out many of those pieces into Spring 2014 as well. Did it turn the world on it's ear. Hell No, But that isn't really it's Raison D'Etre... But for Fun and Pretty, you could dare ask for anything more!

Now, On the other Hand... Pamela and Gela seem to want to Evolve their Style from Flirty, Flippant and Fun to Fashionable. This Collection Was the BIG Step in the right Direction that they needed to Push the Collection into a new stratosphere. It didn't come off as Sickeningly Girly nor Outlandishly Youthful! This was a Strong woman with a Sure-Handed Sense of Sensuality, Not Sexuality and that Difference makes a for a world of Change! Let us, take for example, the very first look in the collection... A dramatic take on the Military Suit with a Sky High Skirt that somehow does not come off at all inappropriate or Harlot-ish! the Colorful back Swagged across the front and Marching Band-esque Topper make for a Kind of Giddy relief to the Forcefully Strong Cut of the Outfit. It's Well Tailored and can work in virtually any Woman's Wardrobe, Up or Down Town! They Did the same look next in Fire Red but with Shorts to show how the look can be more Casual. From there it was just one great outfit after another that a woman could easily work into her already bulging wardrobe or create a whole new fall wardrobe out of just the elements at play here... and Singularly Awesome Black Double-Breasted Peacoat, A Stolid and Tough Black Leather Cape over a V-Neck Cardigan, A SUPERB Swingy Pale Coloured Leopard print Tank Dress, A Tweedy Black and White Suit with a Black Fox Wrap about the Shoulders and some Rachel Zoe Worthy Boho Dresses one particular in Red with a Banded waist that was Quite Fetching for an Understated Evening! And there is the Magic Word.... UNDERSTATED! The collection succeeded by not exceeding! it was Restrained AND Exuberant, Understated and Animated. It had all the things that auger well for future collections and for one day in the near future, Lincoln Center... one also hopes that the girls put their heads together again and Create another fragrance as Wildly Fabulous as Juicy Couture Was and Still IS! Though one is sure it won't be so Indulgent as that Signature scent, as mentioned already, Pam and Gela, Have Moved On! :-D

That's All.


Red Valentino Photos.

Until I learn how to add photos to my Posts... you can go here to get Pics to go along with my Reviews....



Tuesdays Offerings.

Hello... My First Review....

Tuesday 02-05-2013:

Red Valentino.

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri have Certainly Reinvented the Valentino Brand Into something Uniquely their own. Whilst still retaining much of the Luxurious Aesthetic that Senor Garavani was so blissfully wedded to, they have created a much Quieter Sense of The old Masters Ideas and Designs. That isn't a bad thing, when new designers take over a house they must infuse their own Design Sensibilities into DNA of the house while still keeping the Codes of the house in mind. Pier Paolo and Maria Grazia have Shifted the Focus of Valentino now so Brilliantly, Seamlessly and Fluidly to their own Creative Inspirations that while the Valentino signature is still there... it has been redefined to fit the new blood that is pumping through the veins of the Venerable old house with Decades of Couture Technique to draw on for their exercises in the most Luxuriant Discretion!

So how Jarring it was to see this show which exuberantly kicked the Quiet, Cerebral Luxury of the house firmly on it's Posterior! It wasn't that the Collection is Particularly Terrible... but it is Quite.... Garish. Even for Valentino. which in it's heyday could concoct some serious Over-The-Top Confections! This just didn't seem very well judged. Executed Brilliantly though it may have been (the clothes are FANTASTICALLY Made!, One would expect no less) But what was created was just... Dare i say, Silly! Whimsical was what they seemed to be going for with a "Hansel Und Gretel" idea without Hansel, It all came off more Kitschy than Youthful and Exuberant. Not that Kitsch is a BAD Thing, But in the wrong hands it can be a bit much!

The Folkloric Prints that were found in the first few outfits were Startling, In a good way and immediately brought to the fore the Germanic Folklore feeling they were striving for, one particularly Beautiful outfit was No.4, A white Dress with simple, naive embroidery that felt Youthful and still practical. throw a good old stolid Cashmere Cardigan or Wool Coat on over that piece and it's an Instant and Easy Piece to wear in the city. But after that, the collection began to devolve into Garish Coloured Plaids and Outfits more suited to Old Navy or Lululemon... They just didn't come off as anywhere near sophisticated or for that fact, Pretty. they seemed, Childish. Baby Gap Sales rack Childish. Was it all a Mess... Not Exactly, but the Mess did outweigh the Gems. It was all just too short, too "GIRLISH" and too Over Styled in a way that skewed it even Younger. No Real Women would be caught Walking Any Metropolis in any corner of the world wearing these Beautifully made, yet, exasperatingly Child Like Wares.

The Season Begins!

Well, Hello All those who LOVE Fashion!

NY Fashion Week has Started and I worked late today and came home and slept. so Tomorrow I shall start posting my Reviews of The Shows... Cannot wait. Looks like a promising Start For Fall/Winter 2013/2014... Will be Watching the Kenneth Cole Show Live tomorrow as well... Love Ken Cole! Glad he is back on the Runways!

I can say this.... EAGERLY AWAITING....

Michael Kors.

Chado Ralph Rucci.

Marc Jacobs.

Oscar De La Renta.

Carolina Herrera.

That's the top 5.... More To Come, Dahlinks....

Take Care and Bye4Now!