Sun. 09/13/2015.
Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer 2016.
Fresh and carefree is how Victoria Beckham chose to summarize her Spring/Summer 2016 collection and embodied that ethos of the clothes she sent forth. Relaxed and breezy were also very apt, but in a very offhanded and luxurious way. Beckham kept her palette simple, adding excitation by using a neutral-esque plaid and a punchy surfer print that channeled the advertisements for the movie "The Endless Summer" also by super saturated splashes of Rust, Curry and Marine Blue. Those colours were most effective when paired with the main colours of the collection, Black and White.
Beckham proved herself a mix-master with innovative and whimsical patchworking of prints and patterns and clashing yet, funkily harmonious juxtapositions, as in that aforementioned plaid in subdued tones of Grey, Black, and Red against Optic White, or Coral and Black/Marine and Curry Yellow/Black surfer prints popping against Black on a long, louche overcoat. There were more of these instances, but the hardest hitting pieces were the ones that relied less on counterpoint and focused on spare, clean modernism, like the simple brilliance of a sleek hooded leather split front top in Dove White paired with Black leather pants or the unequivocally masterful tank dress in White, again, with a band of Marine Blue at the neck and a single pocket in Rust, Genius!
Beckham has shifted her focus from her beginnings as a glam evening gown designer whose creations were molded within an eighth of an inch of their life to a lithe, sleek form, to becoming one of the best designers of luxe and unique sportswear on the fashion show rounds. It was an unlikely transition and one that has taken a little time to coalesce for the designer, but it is a niche that she has grown into and is beginning to hit her most powerful strides in. The future looks bright!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Sunday, December 22, 2019
Wednesday, November 13, 2019
Monique Lhuillier Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Monique Lhuillier Spring/Summer 2016.
Colour! And loads of it. This was the impression left with one as they viewed the Monique Lhuillier Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Especially since Lhuillier proposed no overarching theme other than "Youth" and the collection certainly had a fresh and breezy quality which was underscored by all that intense colour. Teal, Tourmaline Green, Crayola Salmon, Lapis Blue, Coral Red, and the usual suspects of Black and White for a definite counterpoint. Structure, but in a easy way, was another aspect of the collection writ large, especially in dresses and elliptical hem tops that were swooped up and draped to one side in quite a dramatic fashion, most tantalizing in a strapless top and cigarette pant ensemble in Ocean and Lapis Blues. The best pieces however, came in a Modern Art style splatter print/embroidery that looked the most daring and exciting to the eye, most effective on a long strapless gown with an embroidered overlay at Exit No. 28. Lhuillier provided a vivid and lively collection that truly only stalled at the last passage of dresses which were clunky and underwhelming. otherwise, Job Well Done!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Monique Lhuillier Spring/Summer 2016.
Colour! And loads of it. This was the impression left with one as they viewed the Monique Lhuillier Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Especially since Lhuillier proposed no overarching theme other than "Youth" and the collection certainly had a fresh and breezy quality which was underscored by all that intense colour. Teal, Tourmaline Green, Crayola Salmon, Lapis Blue, Coral Red, and the usual suspects of Black and White for a definite counterpoint. Structure, but in a easy way, was another aspect of the collection writ large, especially in dresses and elliptical hem tops that were swooped up and draped to one side in quite a dramatic fashion, most tantalizing in a strapless top and cigarette pant ensemble in Ocean and Lapis Blues. The best pieces however, came in a Modern Art style splatter print/embroidery that looked the most daring and exciting to the eye, most effective on a long strapless gown with an embroidered overlay at Exit No. 28. Lhuillier provided a vivid and lively collection that truly only stalled at the last passage of dresses which were clunky and underwhelming. otherwise, Job Well Done!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Wednesday, November 6, 2019
Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
The Spring 2016 collection marks Alexander Wang's 10th anniversary as the energetic and streetwise designer with the endless cool factor built into his clothes from a NY inflected L.A. sensibility. This time around though, his more laid back, Los Angeles tendencies lent an aura of relaxed looseness that came across too casual and not fashion. It felt lively and fresh, with athletic influences abounding all over, but an aura of the lackadaisical and, in a bad way, effortless suffused this outing with a far too downmarket feeling. The collection lacked invention, it was sporty, and yes for it's time, pushing all the right buttons, but even by 2016 standards, there was nothing to truly fire the imagination and cause a buyer to earmark pieces from this collections as "Must-Haves"
Where this collection did succeed was that it did have in many places, a superior focus on how the juxtaposition of those more casual elements, when contrasted against something more "Fashion" made a compelling High-Low argument that in lesser skilled hands could have seemed clumsy and maladroit. Especially apt in this association was the track jacket paired with a Satin slip gown near the end of the collection and the deep sanguine red eelskin leather moto jacket paired with "Striped" trousers in fabric and leather. Both of these exhibited a true "FASHION": sensibility while still remaining the utmost in cool. However, to say that those pieces were enough to keep this collection from being something of an underwhelming affair. Wang may have been enthused with his "No concept" theme, but the proceedings most assuredly would have benefited from a more focused hand and less easygoing vibe.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Monday, November 4, 2019
Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2016.
Too Much.
Restraint is a word Christian Siriano DESPERATELY needs to get in better relationship with. His Spring/Summer 2016 collection was suffering under it's own overwrought excessive much-ness that it looked like a bomb had went off at Mood Fabrics and everything fell down onto his toiles and stuck there permanently! Inspired by Morocco, Siriano played every trope and trick in his hand and most times, all at once, to such an inflated and grandiloquent degree that any real sense of design, which also to be honest, looked more akin to a student the first year in design school than a seasoned designer on the international fashion circuit, was decadently lost among the feathers and beads and pom-poms and fringe and sequins and whatever the fuck else he could throw texturally at the wall and make stick. One would wish there was an opportunity to actually judge the CLOTHES, but the things that were given that moniker here, were either so mired in gobs of pompous excess or looked laughably like anything but FASHION, so much so to the degree that it looked like most of it was from Forever 1987 rather than 2016!
It was not a happy happening this go round, Dear Christian. Better luck next time.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2016.
Too Much.
Restraint is a word Christian Siriano DESPERATELY needs to get in better relationship with. His Spring/Summer 2016 collection was suffering under it's own overwrought excessive much-ness that it looked like a bomb had went off at Mood Fabrics and everything fell down onto his toiles and stuck there permanently! Inspired by Morocco, Siriano played every trope and trick in his hand and most times, all at once, to such an inflated and grandiloquent degree that any real sense of design, which also to be honest, looked more akin to a student the first year in design school than a seasoned designer on the international fashion circuit, was decadently lost among the feathers and beads and pom-poms and fringe and sequins and whatever the fuck else he could throw texturally at the wall and make stick. One would wish there was an opportunity to actually judge the CLOTHES, but the things that were given that moniker here, were either so mired in gobs of pompous excess or looked laughably like anything but FASHION, so much so to the degree that it looked like most of it was from Forever 1987 rather than 2016!
It was not a happy happening this go round, Dear Christian. Better luck next time.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Altuzarra Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Altuzarra Spring/Summer 2016.
Perplexing. That is the takeaway from the surprisingly uneven and uninspiring collection from Joseph Altuzarra for Spring of 2016. Whereas usually, Altuzarra's tailoring and gently perverse sense of chic bring the more disparate elements together into a cohesive and satisfying whole, here, on this occasion, it led to a disconnect and incoherence to what we usually come to this designer for. Surely, yes, the thigh high slits were accounted for and present front and center (actually, that is one element that could easily be lost and for the betterment of the brand) the sharp tailleur was there as well, the scintillating sinuous cut of his dresses and gowns also had much going for them, but this was all wrapped up in a miasma of relaxed sensuality of the Basque country (where his paternal ancestry hail from) that fell under Altuzarra's umbrella of presenting a "Very Serene" assemblage.
While Spain could have led to something more buoyant and joyful, it led to the collection feeling flat and gimmicky in places... the pleating and quasi tie-dye prints and espadrilles and other folkloric flourishes. Altuzarra has always danced on a line of ebullience tamed with a wise restraint that sometimes often confounds his collections, but he usually has a plumb line through all the noise and hullabaloo that makes his collections usually startlingly acute and insightful. On this day, that was not the case in the least. Bluntly, it looked sloppy. The clothes didn't exalt or drape and hang in a way that caught one's breath in their chest, to wit, it looked overdone and under thought.
There were beautiful moments, but in the overview and presence of the whole, they were just fleeting moments among a crowd of underwhelming blandness. Every designer has a collection or so that just gets away from them and seems to run wild with it's own steam of bad decisions, this was just such a case, and the reins felt fully out of Altuzarra's hands. Next time, we hope this isn't the case.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Altuzarra Spring/Summer 2016.
Perplexing. That is the takeaway from the surprisingly uneven and uninspiring collection from Joseph Altuzarra for Spring of 2016. Whereas usually, Altuzarra's tailoring and gently perverse sense of chic bring the more disparate elements together into a cohesive and satisfying whole, here, on this occasion, it led to a disconnect and incoherence to what we usually come to this designer for. Surely, yes, the thigh high slits were accounted for and present front and center (actually, that is one element that could easily be lost and for the betterment of the brand) the sharp tailleur was there as well, the scintillating sinuous cut of his dresses and gowns also had much going for them, but this was all wrapped up in a miasma of relaxed sensuality of the Basque country (where his paternal ancestry hail from) that fell under Altuzarra's umbrella of presenting a "Very Serene" assemblage.
While Spain could have led to something more buoyant and joyful, it led to the collection feeling flat and gimmicky in places... the pleating and quasi tie-dye prints and espadrilles and other folkloric flourishes. Altuzarra has always danced on a line of ebullience tamed with a wise restraint that sometimes often confounds his collections, but he usually has a plumb line through all the noise and hullabaloo that makes his collections usually startlingly acute and insightful. On this day, that was not the case in the least. Bluntly, it looked sloppy. The clothes didn't exalt or drape and hang in a way that caught one's breath in their chest, to wit, it looked overdone and under thought.
There were beautiful moments, but in the overview and presence of the whole, they were just fleeting moments among a crowd of underwhelming blandness. Every designer has a collection or so that just gets away from them and seems to run wild with it's own steam of bad decisions, this was just such a case, and the reins felt fully out of Altuzarra's hands. Next time, we hope this isn't the case.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Friday, October 18, 2019
Tibi Spring/Summer 2016
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Tibi Spring/Summer 2016.
Amy Smilovic proclaimed that her mood for the Tibi Spring 2016 collection was "Kinda chilled out" and taking into account that she had spent a bit of down time in Malibu and Miami in the interim between collections, one can fully imagine she got that inspiration every day. This accounted for a certainly more relaxed approach to Smilovic's fashion offering, but that in no way translated into casual or down market dressing. In fact, this assemblage of outfits was a rally by Smilovic against the "Normcore" fad running through the current (as of 2015-6) world of Haute Mode rather rampantly.
To this end, save for exceptional splashes of a a deep and rather surprising hue of Bordeaux and a pair of shades that ostensibly would qualify as Peacock Blue and Green, Smilovic kept her color choices chic and easy and wearable in shades of Nude and White mostly. Smilovic also upped the ante with bracing shots of sequins that added a much needed sense of luxury to the equation and also added a sense of edge to the breezy mood being invoked. Smilovic struck an exceptional balance between casual and sophisticated and made it look deliciously and easily wearable. Take for instance, that rather curiously offbeat, yet perfectly appropriate shade of Bordeaux shown in a chic and relaxed look of a sequined sweater top and Bermuda shorts that encapsulated the dual mood of the show brilliantly!
This was a fundamentally exceptional treatise on mix mastery and the juxtaposition of loose and relaxed against the more sophisticated and luxuriant yielded a sure-handed and confident collection that will find a broad base of appeal for fans of the label and newer ones alike.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Tibi Spring/Summer 2016.
Amy Smilovic proclaimed that her mood for the Tibi Spring 2016 collection was "Kinda chilled out" and taking into account that she had spent a bit of down time in Malibu and Miami in the interim between collections, one can fully imagine she got that inspiration every day. This accounted for a certainly more relaxed approach to Smilovic's fashion offering, but that in no way translated into casual or down market dressing. In fact, this assemblage of outfits was a rally by Smilovic against the "Normcore" fad running through the current (as of 2015-6) world of Haute Mode rather rampantly.
To this end, save for exceptional splashes of a a deep and rather surprising hue of Bordeaux and a pair of shades that ostensibly would qualify as Peacock Blue and Green, Smilovic kept her color choices chic and easy and wearable in shades of Nude and White mostly. Smilovic also upped the ante with bracing shots of sequins that added a much needed sense of luxury to the equation and also added a sense of edge to the breezy mood being invoked. Smilovic struck an exceptional balance between casual and sophisticated and made it look deliciously and easily wearable. Take for instance, that rather curiously offbeat, yet perfectly appropriate shade of Bordeaux shown in a chic and relaxed look of a sequined sweater top and Bermuda shorts that encapsulated the dual mood of the show brilliantly!
This was a fundamentally exceptional treatise on mix mastery and the juxtaposition of loose and relaxed against the more sophisticated and luxuriant yielded a sure-handed and confident collection that will find a broad base of appeal for fans of the label and newer ones alike.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Sunday, October 6, 2019
Hervé Léger By Max Azria Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Hervé Léger By Max Azria Spring/Summer 2016.
Spring '16 at Hervé Léger was as typically confused and excessively overwrought as to what has become expected of the label under the helm of the Azria's (Max and Lubov) Even with the press for newness attempted by abandoning the signature bandage dress, this impetus yielded nothing new nor exciting and certainly nothing particularly memorable. In fact, the collection was something of a disaster on all levels. No woman of modern tastes would find anything of value here in this mess of a collection. It was a sadly lacking assortment of clothes in all respects, and more pointedly, just bad!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Hervé Léger By Max Azria Spring/Summer 2016.
Spring '16 at Hervé Léger was as typically confused and excessively overwrought as to what has become expected of the label under the helm of the Azria's (Max and Lubov) Even with the press for newness attempted by abandoning the signature bandage dress, this impetus yielded nothing new nor exciting and certainly nothing particularly memorable. In fact, the collection was something of a disaster on all levels. No woman of modern tastes would find anything of value here in this mess of a collection. It was a sadly lacking assortment of clothes in all respects, and more pointedly, just bad!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Frame Denim Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson of Frame Denim presented for Spring 2016 a revue of South of France cool girl chic as viewed through the 70's prism. Frame got it's fame from the "Le Skinny Jean" that has made them an essential label to turn to for figure flattering jeans, but they are also a fashion label that offers more than just a sexy ass pair of jeans. Suggesting a young woman from the 70's on a sojourn to the French Riviera and falls in love with the louché attitude of the place and then brings her distinctly American sense to her wardrobe.
To that end, there were plenty of seaside stripes and, funnily enough for a jeans label, lots of shorts, in Suede and Denim. If not shorts, hems were quite resolutely northern, even the jeans came cropped inches above the ankle, sometimes with a discreet little flare. Being that this is the French Riviera that was inspiring the duo, there were even swimsuits for those absolutely necessary dips in the Azure Eau. The best looks were outside of the jean Oeuvre, a White oversized shirt and full striped pants, or a cropped Trench jacket paired with tiny White jeans and a graphic tee.
The collection Jens and Torstensson presented was in no way trying to reinvent the wheel, just offer crisp, sexy, flattering and desirable clothes for the woman that doesn't want to try too hard to look great and wants the perfect accomplice in her clothes. These were those clothes and they accomplished that goal swimmingly.
That's All.
Bye4Now.
To that end, there were plenty of seaside stripes and, funnily enough for a jeans label, lots of shorts, in Suede and Denim. If not shorts, hems were quite resolutely northern, even the jeans came cropped inches above the ankle, sometimes with a discreet little flare. Being that this is the French Riviera that was inspiring the duo, there were even swimsuits for those absolutely necessary dips in the Azure Eau. The best looks were outside of the jean Oeuvre, a White oversized shirt and full striped pants, or a cropped Trench jacket paired with tiny White jeans and a graphic tee.
The collection Jens and Torstensson presented was in no way trying to reinvent the wheel, just offer crisp, sexy, flattering and desirable clothes for the woman that doesn't want to try too hard to look great and wants the perfect accomplice in her clothes. These were those clothes and they accomplished that goal swimmingly.
That's All.
Bye4Now.
Friday, August 16, 2019
Mara Hoffman Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
When the first look out on the runway is a Head-to-Toe Blue Sky/White Cloud combo print pantsuit, you know you are in for some sunny disposition clothes and good vibes, especially coupled with Willie Nelson's song "Blue Skies" as inspiration. Combine that with prints of Birds, Rainbows, Giant wallpaper-esque flowers and sheaves of wheat and you were looking at a collection that was whimsically ebullient and vaguely Americana-ish. Hoffman didn't stretch herself too much farther than these riotous prints, presenting a pretty mundane line-up of clothes that didn't stretch the imagination or cause one's heart to truly pulse faster than normal. In effect, it felt more like Hoffman felt that the prints were enough of a statement that she didn't need to elevate her clothes too far above basic. In that instance, she was wrong.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Sunday, August 11, 2019
Rosie Assoulin Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Rosie Assoulin is known for being a Maximalist with a Surrealistic bent to her often oversized and sweeping pieces. For Spring/Summer 2016 she reeled in some of her more ostentatious tendencies and exercised, (for her, at the least) a measured restraint that still oft times, flowed onto the more familiar shores of "Over-The-Top" saying that however, the collection was just as exuberant and eclectic as befits Assoulin, but with a certain subdued quality that was startlingly welcome. Assoulin took from the jump, a less outsized approach by terms of her inspiration, subverting such mundane items as Swimsuits, Pajamas and Undies as the point of departure. She skewed them by making certain elements of these items tremendously enlarged or putting something the likes of, bathing suit ties on and ruching on the bodice of a dramatically sweeping ballgown (A well known signature. those ballgowns)
This somewhat off-kilter approach led to some beautiful creations from Assoulin. From the huge pleated pants or the dramatic swaths of fabric used as ties at the sides of the waist of skirts and pants. This also translated into the final cadre of spectacularly dramatic evening gowns of which a two-piece ensemble of a Burlap coloured skirt with huge godets was paired with a skimpy iridescent camisole top that was the perfect juxtaposition of grand and minimal. Assoulin's more "Understated" approach this season was a refreshing pivot to her usual designs, this collection was as witty as ever with many of Assoulin's surrealist touches, but grounded in a more wearable format. One hopes for continued exploration outside her comfort zone.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Saturday, August 10, 2019
Lacoste Srping/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016.
With an Olympic theme percolating in his brain, Felipe Oliveira Baptista plucked the motif of a nations flag as his point of departure for the Lacoste S/S 2016 collection. As always, Baptista's interpretation and execution was not only spot on, it was Pitch Perfect. He offered up the moment when a Olympian has won their competition and drapes themselves in the flag of their national origin and the triumph and universality of the gesture as the grand overall connecting theme of the show, and deconstructed and refigured flags of all types and forms (not specifically flags of nations, just the idea of such) into his clothes for the runway.
Owing that sports was the origination of the theme, it was little wonder that most of the outfits exhibited extra sleekness and a fast, sporty, lithe appeal that would befit an Olympian. Bright, solid, sure handed colour was also on tap, mainly combined and juxtaposed with White and Navy. Later, more truer flag motifs were embraced for a brief moment, in a few easy to wear pieces, and brought about a sense of commonality and global community that wasn't heavy handed or preachy, they just brought a smile to the face and a bit of joy to the spirit. After this, the colour palette evolved into juxtapositions of bright splashy brights against cool, desert neutrals. The most effective of these colours was the searing Chili Red and the soothing Khaki Green, which was perhaps the strongest showing in the lineup.
Even though virtually every piece was a total win, some outfits stood on the Gold medal platform rather than on the Silver or Bronze, an Iridescent Olive Green shirtdress was of a special ilk, as was a breezy Desert Grey featherlight poncho that nearly stole the show. To end, Baptista brought home that global community feeling by splicing together flags from the globe over and transforming them into absolutely desirable and covetous sportif pieces that won the race in the most upbeat and fashionable way. It was a triumphant end to a collection that was not only chic, but also, moving. A Nice feat to accomplish, indeed!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
With an Olympic theme percolating in his brain, Felipe Oliveira Baptista plucked the motif of a nations flag as his point of departure for the Lacoste S/S 2016 collection. As always, Baptista's interpretation and execution was not only spot on, it was Pitch Perfect. He offered up the moment when a Olympian has won their competition and drapes themselves in the flag of their national origin and the triumph and universality of the gesture as the grand overall connecting theme of the show, and deconstructed and refigured flags of all types and forms (not specifically flags of nations, just the idea of such) into his clothes for the runway.
Owing that sports was the origination of the theme, it was little wonder that most of the outfits exhibited extra sleekness and a fast, sporty, lithe appeal that would befit an Olympian. Bright, solid, sure handed colour was also on tap, mainly combined and juxtaposed with White and Navy. Later, more truer flag motifs were embraced for a brief moment, in a few easy to wear pieces, and brought about a sense of commonality and global community that wasn't heavy handed or preachy, they just brought a smile to the face and a bit of joy to the spirit. After this, the colour palette evolved into juxtapositions of bright splashy brights against cool, desert neutrals. The most effective of these colours was the searing Chili Red and the soothing Khaki Green, which was perhaps the strongest showing in the lineup.
Even though virtually every piece was a total win, some outfits stood on the Gold medal platform rather than on the Silver or Bronze, an Iridescent Olive Green shirtdress was of a special ilk, as was a breezy Desert Grey featherlight poncho that nearly stole the show. To end, Baptista brought home that global community feeling by splicing together flags from the globe over and transforming them into absolutely desirable and covetous sportif pieces that won the race in the most upbeat and fashionable way. It was a triumphant end to a collection that was not only chic, but also, moving. A Nice feat to accomplish, indeed!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Thursday, April 11, 2019
Adam Lippes Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Adam Lippes Spring/Summer 2016.
One can always count on Adam Lippes for striking, innovative and surprising pieces in his equally surprising collections. For Spring 2016, Lippes doubled-down on the sportier aspects of his line, which came as quite the refreshing outcome for his efforts. By most looks, there was a hint of restraint running through the collection that manifested itself mainly in it's play of solid colours and minimum of prints and patterns. Not that the equaled out to boring, actually, much to the contrary, it served to focus everything and condense and streamline the message put forth.
The most stellar moments were the quietest and proved also to be the boldest. A Midnight Blue jumpsuit was particularly sharp and impactful while the last look, a Black Faille ballgown had all the quiet grandeur and gravitas due such a special piece, but also had an easy and relaxed mien to it that surely was giving a wink towards Lippes old boss, Oscar de la Renta! Lippes is one of the fashion knights out there, doing his own thing, working without a lot of fanfare and pomp, and doing that with exceptional results.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Adam Lippes Spring/Summer 2016.
One can always count on Adam Lippes for striking, innovative and surprising pieces in his equally surprising collections. For Spring 2016, Lippes doubled-down on the sportier aspects of his line, which came as quite the refreshing outcome for his efforts. By most looks, there was a hint of restraint running through the collection that manifested itself mainly in it's play of solid colours and minimum of prints and patterns. Not that the equaled out to boring, actually, much to the contrary, it served to focus everything and condense and streamline the message put forth.
The most stellar moments were the quietest and proved also to be the boldest. A Midnight Blue jumpsuit was particularly sharp and impactful while the last look, a Black Faille ballgown had all the quiet grandeur and gravitas due such a special piece, but also had an easy and relaxed mien to it that surely was giving a wink towards Lippes old boss, Oscar de la Renta! Lippes is one of the fashion knights out there, doing his own thing, working without a lot of fanfare and pomp, and doing that with exceptional results.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Rebecca Minkoff Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Rebecca Minkoff Spring/Summer 2016.
Citing Marianne Faithful, the cool girl's near mythic iconic fashion touchstone, Rebecca Minkoff strode forth a not very exciting or fashion forward collection that had more than a whiff of "Been There, Done That!" about it. Not that there weren't some cool riffs on the themes being played upon, it just happened to feel a little blasé and expected. There was nothing new to seduce the eye and nothing interesting enough to create a major fashion "Must-Have" sensation amongst any other than the Minkoff devoted. Is that necessarily a bad thing? Not actually, there's much to be said in playing to one's audience and giving them what they like and/or love. But, in the end, does that truly equate to more than due deference to the client at hand and being so shortsighted as to not reach for more lofty and risky ideas? Whom, truly is to say!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Rebecca Minkoff Spring/Summer 2016.
Citing Marianne Faithful, the cool girl's near mythic iconic fashion touchstone, Rebecca Minkoff strode forth a not very exciting or fashion forward collection that had more than a whiff of "Been There, Done That!" about it. Not that there weren't some cool riffs on the themes being played upon, it just happened to feel a little blasé and expected. There was nothing new to seduce the eye and nothing interesting enough to create a major fashion "Must-Have" sensation amongst any other than the Minkoff devoted. Is that necessarily a bad thing? Not actually, there's much to be said in playing to one's audience and giving them what they like and/or love. But, in the end, does that truly equate to more than due deference to the client at hand and being so shortsighted as to not reach for more lofty and risky ideas? Whom, truly is to say!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Saturday, April 6, 2019
Dion Lee Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
There is a spare, almost severe minimalist and ascetic tone to the work of Dion Lee. One that is touched with a hint of fantastical romanticism that bubbles up to the surface in surprising and frankly. gorgeous ways. Spring '16 saw that romantic streak tempered more so than usual and the more stark tendencies of Lee's design highlighted. With a colour scheme devoted mostly to White, Black and Red, this element was the most successful of the collection. Razor sharp cuts gave a relentlessly tough edge to most garments, while the angular asymmetry provided more futurist momentum to the modern looks. When Lee indulged himself in fringing and looping and ruffles, the looks fell short and seemed oddly, out of place. In the end, it was a strong showing for Lee, but one that could have used a more critical eye and way of thinking.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Thursday, April 4, 2019
Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016.
Have it your way! Long and lean, full, flowing and boho, or just plain old sexy! Jill Stuart knows her women and she knows her well. Spring saw this insight into her clientele explode with a daring array of looks suited to fulfill all of her clients possible Spring 2016 needs, and then some! From swaying flares to limpid dresses, flou, was an essential component to this pretty collection which was ideally suited to those who were if not in body, were youthful and girly in mind and spirit. Ruffles and satin abounded as did high necks and pouf sleeves, lending an air of the 70's to the collection which straddled the line somewhere between kitsch and cool while not actually diving headlong into either. Stuart doesn't make any claims to be designing for every woman, she's creating clothing for her niche of women that appreciate her sexy, eclectic style, in that sense, she isn't leading the pack in terms of originality, but what she is doing, she is doing exceedingly well.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016.
Have it your way! Long and lean, full, flowing and boho, or just plain old sexy! Jill Stuart knows her women and she knows her well. Spring saw this insight into her clientele explode with a daring array of looks suited to fulfill all of her clients possible Spring 2016 needs, and then some! From swaying flares to limpid dresses, flou, was an essential component to this pretty collection which was ideally suited to those who were if not in body, were youthful and girly in mind and spirit. Ruffles and satin abounded as did high necks and pouf sleeves, lending an air of the 70's to the collection which straddled the line somewhere between kitsch and cool while not actually diving headlong into either. Stuart doesn't make any claims to be designing for every woman, she's creating clothing for her niche of women that appreciate her sexy, eclectic style, in that sense, she isn't leading the pack in terms of originality, but what she is doing, she is doing exceedingly well.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Friday, March 29, 2019
Polo Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016.
Sat. 09/12/2015.
Polo Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016.
From the first look in the Spring/Summer 2016 Lookbook for the Polo Ralph Lauren collection one knew that they were in for a treat and a very different offering chez Ralph. Firstly, there was an abundance of beautiful and to be honest, uncharacteristically vibrant floral prints and saturated Crayola hues that imbued Lauren's usual preppy austerity with a newfound sense of playfulness and energy. Lauren showed everything from Marigold Orange to Electric Lime and all the shades in between with an especial emphasis on Blue in it's variety of tones.
Elsewhere, there were the typical Lauren tropes, which when shown as foil to the joyful bounty of colours on display, showed to be even stronger in their relief to the virtuosity of the colours. From fringe to Menswear checks and denim, (Especially fine in an absolutely BRILLIANT Three-Piece pantsuit) the old standards here worked more so than ever and proved, in the most convincing manner, that the classics never go out of style, especially when given a jolt of eye refreshing colour!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Polo Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016.
From the first look in the Spring/Summer 2016 Lookbook for the Polo Ralph Lauren collection one knew that they were in for a treat and a very different offering chez Ralph. Firstly, there was an abundance of beautiful and to be honest, uncharacteristically vibrant floral prints and saturated Crayola hues that imbued Lauren's usual preppy austerity with a newfound sense of playfulness and energy. Lauren showed everything from Marigold Orange to Electric Lime and all the shades in between with an especial emphasis on Blue in it's variety of tones.
Elsewhere, there were the typical Lauren tropes, which when shown as foil to the joyful bounty of colours on display, showed to be even stronger in their relief to the virtuosity of the colours. From fringe to Menswear checks and denim, (Especially fine in an absolutely BRILLIANT Three-Piece pantsuit) the old standards here worked more so than ever and proved, in the most convincing manner, that the classics never go out of style, especially when given a jolt of eye refreshing colour!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Monday, March 25, 2019
Novis Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Novis Spring/SUmmer 2016.
For Spring 2016 Jordana Warmflash crafted a damn excellent arrangement of pieces that were very architectural, colourful and above all, deeply interesting while also still being incredibly wearable for her Novis label. Working within a palette that consisted of mainly Grass Green, Lapis Blue, Cyan Blue and variants thereof, coupled in every outfit with Black and White, Warmflash's collection had a compellingly graphical element to it that created more interest than it's clean and lean and precise cuts and shapes conveyed. Though, every now and again, Warmflash stepped out a bit and showed something designed for the sake of beautiful fashion alone, most expertly envisioned in a gown of Black net embroidered with Matisse-like Blue flowers. A show stopper if ever there were one. Aside from such minute dalliances outside the spare assemblage of clothes, Warmflash showed how keen her eye is for Colour and Shape and gave a collection that excelled in giving those skills full room to breathe and soar.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Novis Spring/SUmmer 2016.
For Spring 2016 Jordana Warmflash crafted a damn excellent arrangement of pieces that were very architectural, colourful and above all, deeply interesting while also still being incredibly wearable for her Novis label. Working within a palette that consisted of mainly Grass Green, Lapis Blue, Cyan Blue and variants thereof, coupled in every outfit with Black and White, Warmflash's collection had a compellingly graphical element to it that created more interest than it's clean and lean and precise cuts and shapes conveyed. Though, every now and again, Warmflash stepped out a bit and showed something designed for the sake of beautiful fashion alone, most expertly envisioned in a gown of Black net embroidered with Matisse-like Blue flowers. A show stopper if ever there were one. Aside from such minute dalliances outside the spare assemblage of clothes, Warmflash showed how keen her eye is for Colour and Shape and gave a collection that excelled in giving those skills full room to breathe and soar.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2016.
There was something ideally comforting about Ulla Johnson's Spring 2016 collection that felt at once, homespun and also, thoroughly contemporary. Maybe it was because of the familiar American West/Southwest inflection to most of the collection, or because Johnson didn't apply too much intellectualism to the clothes and just designed things that were created to make you feel good and smile. Not to say great amount of thought wasn't spent on the collection, but the key to that win is that even though ample thought has been expended, the results look effortless. They most truthfully did.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2016.
There was something ideally comforting about Ulla Johnson's Spring 2016 collection that felt at once, homespun and also, thoroughly contemporary. Maybe it was because of the familiar American West/Southwest inflection to most of the collection, or because Johnson didn't apply too much intellectualism to the clothes and just designed things that were created to make you feel good and smile. Not to say great amount of thought wasn't spent on the collection, but the key to that win is that even though ample thought has been expended, the results look effortless. They most truthfully did.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Saturday, March 23, 2019
Nicole Miller Spring/Summer 2016
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Nicole Miller's Raison d'Etre is not to reinvent the wheel, it's not even to reinvent herself. She's firmly of the school of thought that there is no need to tamper with a formula that is working to try and appeal to a new range of clientele. To that end, Miller is well aware that her fanbase stretches across all strata and social layers and encompasses a wide swath of women, from all corners of the fashion playing field.
Her Spring 2016 collection didn't in even any remote way move her needle beyond the comfortable furrow she has successfully plowed for more years than she might care to count. In that respect, it was admirably reliable and refreshingly commercial without being trite or boring. What it was not was particularly exciting or innovative, treading waters that she has trod many times before, this time sparked up a bit with Graffiti/Brick Wall prints that offered some feeling of newness, but ultimately, were just nascent additions to her already well spoken fashion vocabulary.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Givenchy Ready-To-Wear Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Let's forget the emotional connotations of showing on 9/11 14 years after the disaster and making a fashion spectacle that channels that horrific moment in time to present a pretentious, ostentatious, laboriously sentimental hour of insipidness that in it's aching artsy-ness did nothing but infuriate at such a ridiculous conceit that fashion can relate or be the balm to soothe the broken hearts and bones of those who lost so much in the attack. Let's forget that all and not dwell on how insulting it is and even more insulting to engage Instagram celebrities and worthless Reality Celebs or the over inflated ego of artist Marina Abramovic, to rally round this excessive monstrosity and make the display even more cheap and tawdry. Let's just erase that from our minds and focus only on the clothes...
Shall We?
If we do that, then we see that Riccardo Tisci presented a pretty much awe-inspiring collection, full of the best possible versions of all of his usual tropes, (let us be honest, this was not Tisci at his most creative, and pushing himself into new possibilities. This was as much a recycling and re-fabricating of all his "Greatest Hits" as anything he's ever done!) From the opening passage of tailored pieces counterpointed by lacier, more lingerie styling rendered in Black and White to the even more graphic Men's section that followed, Tisci was working his groove with particular elan. This progressed into Tisci's usual histrionics and over indulgence, from the few Haute Couture pieces that were sauntered down the runway to the lavish face embellishment and exotica.
The one immediate take away from the collection, other than Tisci executed his collection totally in Black and White and that lace was present in each and every exit, was that with this limited colour schema, perhaps Tisci was hitting a kind of fashion reset button, playing out variants of old ideas in new formats and keeping them freshened up by limiting the palette, was that Tisci has a distinct and discernible idea of what his Givenchy woman wants and how she wants to be seen. Rather that is an all encompassing view of womanity is another thing entirely, The outlandish, and onanistic display of this collection was almost enough to sink it to the bottom of the water that the show was presented on and beside, However, Tisci saved it by creating a multitude of ideas that cohesively and comprehensibly mined his oeuvre thus far at the house. Whatever one feels about that said oeuvre, the undeniable fact is that these are clothes for those who know the power of fashion. And, that in and of itself is more a statement than any other intellectual or emotional embrace could ever provide.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
The one immediate take away from the collection, other than Tisci executed his collection totally in Black and White and that lace was present in each and every exit, was that with this limited colour schema, perhaps Tisci was hitting a kind of fashion reset button, playing out variants of old ideas in new formats and keeping them freshened up by limiting the palette, was that Tisci has a distinct and discernible idea of what his Givenchy woman wants and how she wants to be seen. Rather that is an all encompassing view of womanity is another thing entirely, The outlandish, and onanistic display of this collection was almost enough to sink it to the bottom of the water that the show was presented on and beside, However, Tisci saved it by creating a multitude of ideas that cohesively and comprehensibly mined his oeuvre thus far at the house. Whatever one feels about that said oeuvre, the undeniable fact is that these are clothes for those who know the power of fashion. And, that in and of itself is more a statement than any other intellectual or emotional embrace could ever provide.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Friday, March 22, 2019
Pamella Roland Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2016.
Spring 2016 was a typical outing for evening designer Pamella Roland. That translates into, that it was full of clothes for the Well-To-Do types that live on the Upper Sides of Manhattan (East and/Or West) or any city in the country were those who have Charity Balls, Art Exhibits or just Red Carpet moments in general. The collection, as usual, was not on the cutting edge, nor did it aspire to be so or have any need of doing such, Roland's customer isn't looking for any statement too far beyond a Magnificent entrance making piece that is well entrenched in the classic with a modern twist.
On that end, Roland delivered wonderfully, replete with new words to her fashion vocabulary to keep things interesting and current. Origami folds on some gowns were a welcome addition, especially since most often they showed off a vibrant reverse colour to the obverse of the fabric, deliciously executed in a Sea Blue Shantung dress with folds that revealed Apple Green underneath. Roland otherwise, was in her wheelhouse, with a bit of extra interest imbued by drawing inspiration from artist Frank Stella, which accounted for some of the more vibrant shades and geometrical aspects.
Roland's collection was in no way, groundbreaking, nor need it be so. Roland isn't a at-the-fore kind of designer, she's great at working the niche she's firmly embedded in and exalting her personal fashion ideals to their highest point. In the eternal words of olde, "If it ain't broke, Don't fix it!"
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Tuesday, March 19, 2019
Zimmerman Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Zimmerman Spring/Summer 2016.
The exquisite ornateness of the Zimmerman 2016 Spring/Summer collection was at times, a smidge overwhelming and distracting from the beautifully rendered and executed pieces whose feelings of Victoriana and fantastical romanticism rendered a collection full of surprise and feminine splendour. Nicky and Simone Zimmerman were taken by an 1800's Australian novel called "Seven Little Australians" and the underlying "Naughtiness" of the novel which the sisters described as "Very Mischievous" this mischief added a underlying sense of edge and bite to the frothy frippery that the designers strode forth down their runway this season.
Firstly, the sister's intricacy of design is majorly breathtaking, these are clothes that you do not need deep examination of to tell the immense technique and hours of production imbued in each piece, from elaborate ruffles, pleats and lace treatments to fitted bodices and waistlines. Secondly, high necks and covered bodies lent to the Victorian theme in particular, however with not a hem hovering anywhere south of the knee, it was a modern, sexified version of Victoriana. The Zimmerman sisters also kept the palette romantical and girly, Blush, White, Pale Blue were the most prevalent. Black made it's appearance only at the end and was integrated with White to soften the colour and also add a graphic element that the flower prints earlier in the collection did not add.
The collection was a monument to feminine beauty and sartorial romance with a definite, of today edge, though to reiterate, scaling back some of the piling on of details, would have served the collection a bit better, the overdose of elaboration led to visual fatigue at times and the sisters proved that they could simplify and still stun, a Greyish Blue swing dress with an oversized ruffle at the bodice and strappy shoulder detailing gave much evidence to this fact. Saying that, the collection was still a major masterpiece and stunned from beginning to end.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Zimmerman Spring/Summer 2016.
The exquisite ornateness of the Zimmerman 2016 Spring/Summer collection was at times, a smidge overwhelming and distracting from the beautifully rendered and executed pieces whose feelings of Victoriana and fantastical romanticism rendered a collection full of surprise and feminine splendour. Nicky and Simone Zimmerman were taken by an 1800's Australian novel called "Seven Little Australians" and the underlying "Naughtiness" of the novel which the sisters described as "Very Mischievous" this mischief added a underlying sense of edge and bite to the frothy frippery that the designers strode forth down their runway this season.
Firstly, the sister's intricacy of design is majorly breathtaking, these are clothes that you do not need deep examination of to tell the immense technique and hours of production imbued in each piece, from elaborate ruffles, pleats and lace treatments to fitted bodices and waistlines. Secondly, high necks and covered bodies lent to the Victorian theme in particular, however with not a hem hovering anywhere south of the knee, it was a modern, sexified version of Victoriana. The Zimmerman sisters also kept the palette romantical and girly, Blush, White, Pale Blue were the most prevalent. Black made it's appearance only at the end and was integrated with White to soften the colour and also add a graphic element that the flower prints earlier in the collection did not add.
The collection was a monument to feminine beauty and sartorial romance with a definite, of today edge, though to reiterate, scaling back some of the piling on of details, would have served the collection a bit better, the overdose of elaboration led to visual fatigue at times and the sisters proved that they could simplify and still stun, a Greyish Blue swing dress with an oversized ruffle at the bodice and strappy shoulder detailing gave much evidence to this fact. Saying that, the collection was still a major masterpiece and stunned from beginning to end.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Monday, March 18, 2019
Sally LaPointe Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Sally LaPointe Spring/Summer 2016.
Luxe Minimalism works very well for designer Sally LaPointe. Known primarily for her cozy and luxuriant knits mixed with expensive fabrications, ie... Fox, Leather and the like, this collection was a departure in the sense that LaPointe had to mine different veins to find her luxe caliber niche this season. She did so swimmingly. Her Spring/Summer 2016 collection was a modernistic approach to sportswear with an almost intellectual bent to it that served it exceptionally well. LaPointe's fashion this season, while urban and gritty, was also beautifully richesse with tony beading and sequin effects abound.
LaPointe kept her colour scheme reserved yet bold, Black, White, and Steel Grey kept the collection grounded in reality as did Vanilla and Coffee Brown, (most effective in a Pony skin coat). Cayenne Red lent a dash of heat to the rather cerebral and cool countenance of the collection, but did not distract from the key theme of minimal luxury. Later, a whisper-y Frost Blue brought that coolness factor to the freezing point and was especially desirable when it was paired against that peppery shade of Red near the end of the collection in a long trench and equally lean and long dress. LaPointe's collection was perfectly executed and brilliantly judged, it was an exercise of restrained, minimalistic and intelligent design and left one wanting more. That's always best in cases such as this!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Sally LaPointe Spring/Summer 2016.
Luxe Minimalism works very well for designer Sally LaPointe. Known primarily for her cozy and luxuriant knits mixed with expensive fabrications, ie... Fox, Leather and the like, this collection was a departure in the sense that LaPointe had to mine different veins to find her luxe caliber niche this season. She did so swimmingly. Her Spring/Summer 2016 collection was a modernistic approach to sportswear with an almost intellectual bent to it that served it exceptionally well. LaPointe's fashion this season, while urban and gritty, was also beautifully richesse with tony beading and sequin effects abound.
LaPointe kept her colour scheme reserved yet bold, Black, White, and Steel Grey kept the collection grounded in reality as did Vanilla and Coffee Brown, (most effective in a Pony skin coat). Cayenne Red lent a dash of heat to the rather cerebral and cool countenance of the collection, but did not distract from the key theme of minimal luxury. Later, a whisper-y Frost Blue brought that coolness factor to the freezing point and was especially desirable when it was paired against that peppery shade of Red near the end of the collection in a long trench and equally lean and long dress. LaPointe's collection was perfectly executed and brilliantly judged, it was an exercise of restrained, minimalistic and intelligent design and left one wanting more. That's always best in cases such as this!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Sunday, March 17, 2019
Kate Spade New York Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Kate Spade's Creative Director Deborah Lloyd was unabashedly taken with flowers for the Spring 2015 season and the results were an unequivocal success. The collection Lloyd presented, even though awash in floral prints, was mainly executed in Navy, Black and White with sprightly shots of colour and a refreshing amount of Beige to keep the fantasy grounded in reality. Where there was a hint of Coral Pink and a few washed out pastels, the main colour focus was on a fresh, yet not eye-wateringly vibrant shade of Daisy Yellow that was also translated, in the last act of the looks into daisy prints.
A particular standout was a Sequined stripe dress and pair of shorts that paired Snow White with Zingy Tropical colours and shined more for the happiness of the shades used, more so than the sequins could ever embody. Those plated sequins showed up on Black and White stripes as well and were equally enticing. Pretty in Pink floral prints in both Pink and a Black/White, were writ oversized and attention getting, and both versions were garden ready, while a stylized Daisy Lace in Spectator Black and White added dimension and texture as well as a good bit of whimsy and throwback kitsch.
While the collection had a Fun, Flirty and Fresh vibe, there was something innately Lady-like about the entire showing that was mouthwateringly delicious and welcome. It was sophisticated, but not in the least bit stuffy or uptight, there was a relaxed Joie de Vivre that permeated each and every look and translated into smile-inducing outfits that not only had remarkable ease, but also immense charm. Lloyd truly was totally on point here and it showed, effortlessly so!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Tuesday, February 5, 2019
Cushnie Et Ochs Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Cushnie Et Ochs Spring/Summer 2016.
Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs' Spring 2016 offering was replete with the things that they are most well known for... Body clinging dresses and tops, innovative and unique draping and cutout/openings, etc... This collection however fell somewhere well short of the high watermark usual of their work. With 90's era Hip-Hop viewed through the Rococo splendoured prism of Artist Kehinde Wiley, known for his ostentatiously fabulous overwrought portraits of African-American men in modern garb painted in wildly Baroque fashion, one would have had high hopes for this collection. Unfulfillingly so, the collection faltered and a lot of the clothes didn't limn the body in the right kind of ways and unfortunately, made the models look wide and misproportioned. It didn't help in the least that some of the models were already more... "Volumetric" at the start.
Not to say there wasn't much to love and admire, in typical Cushnie/Ochs style, some pieces were delivering Fierce with a capital "RAWR" and deliciously sexy, check out the palest Periwinkle dress on African Beauty Leila Nda, cut perfectly to accentuate the body's lines and curves without adding unneeded heft to the figure it was encasing and slimming it! The LBD number at Exit No.28 was also a masterpiece of sleek construction. My biggest complaint though, is that with all this body hugging, the majority of the already slim models looked bigger than usual, maybe it's just my eye, but curvaceous is one thing, doughy is altogether another entirely!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Cushnie Et Ochs Spring/Summer 2016.
Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs' Spring 2016 offering was replete with the things that they are most well known for... Body clinging dresses and tops, innovative and unique draping and cutout/openings, etc... This collection however fell somewhere well short of the high watermark usual of their work. With 90's era Hip-Hop viewed through the Rococo splendoured prism of Artist Kehinde Wiley, known for his ostentatiously fabulous overwrought portraits of African-American men in modern garb painted in wildly Baroque fashion, one would have had high hopes for this collection. Unfulfillingly so, the collection faltered and a lot of the clothes didn't limn the body in the right kind of ways and unfortunately, made the models look wide and misproportioned. It didn't help in the least that some of the models were already more... "Volumetric" at the start.
Not to say there wasn't much to love and admire, in typical Cushnie/Ochs style, some pieces were delivering Fierce with a capital "RAWR" and deliciously sexy, check out the palest Periwinkle dress on African Beauty Leila Nda, cut perfectly to accentuate the body's lines and curves without adding unneeded heft to the figure it was encasing and slimming it! The LBD number at Exit No.28 was also a masterpiece of sleek construction. My biggest complaint though, is that with all this body hugging, the majority of the already slim models looked bigger than usual, maybe it's just my eye, but curvaceous is one thing, doughy is altogether another entirely!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Yigal Azrouël Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Yigal Azrouël Spring/Summer 2016.
Beginning in the light and transitioning to the dark, Yigal Azrouël gave a well-rounded and aesthetically airy handed treatise on Spring fashion for 2016. As a designer known more for his harder edged, downtown aesthetic, this was particularly more uptown and upbeat for Azrouël than per usual. Pastels in shades of Blush Nude and Icy Blue gave a refreshing léger freshness and grace to the clothing presented here. Make no mistakes, Black and White were very much apparent and to the fore. but to some degree, they paled (Pun intended) in comparison to the soothing pastel tones. Try a look at Exit No. 22... A zip jacket in a wisp of Grey/Blue colour with a matching dress in an undulating gossamer fabric, looked equally fragile and tough without any effort exerted at all! It was the perfect example by Azrouël that Delicate can still be Fierce. And isn't that quite the fashion ideal to aspire to?
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Yigal Azrouël Spring/Summer 2016.
Beginning in the light and transitioning to the dark, Yigal Azrouël gave a well-rounded and aesthetically airy handed treatise on Spring fashion for 2016. As a designer known more for his harder edged, downtown aesthetic, this was particularly more uptown and upbeat for Azrouël than per usual. Pastels in shades of Blush Nude and Icy Blue gave a refreshing léger freshness and grace to the clothing presented here. Make no mistakes, Black and White were very much apparent and to the fore. but to some degree, they paled (Pun intended) in comparison to the soothing pastel tones. Try a look at Exit No. 22... A zip jacket in a wisp of Grey/Blue colour with a matching dress in an undulating gossamer fabric, looked equally fragile and tough without any effort exerted at all! It was the perfect example by Azrouël that Delicate can still be Fierce. And isn't that quite the fashion ideal to aspire to?
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Wednesday, January 23, 2019
Wes Gordon Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Wes Gordon Spring/Summer 2016.
Wes Gordon has the mind and fashion sensibilities of Uptown, but a heart that is firmly rooted in the Grunge-era 90's and that unique dichotomy has informed the footprint of his style from nearly the beginning. For Spring/Summer 2016, Gordon followed his heart more truly than ever before and while the collection may have leaned closer to the central part of Gordon's emotional involvement in the clothes produced, it did make for one of his least convincing collections as a whole. Whereas in the past, Gordon produced looks that oozed Uptown Luxe with a Downtown Chic patina, here, the collection played a bit like a diffusion collection. It just in most places did not have the New-Generation Richesse that Gordon has so successfully applied to his previous collections. This didn't in the slightest way make for an unsuccessful collection, just one that was perhaps not the strongest statement from the designer.
In most cases, from the beginning look of a sleek, yet crisp, minimal to the max White coat, to a Deep Marigold Snap front coat with white frock underneath, Gordon was on the right foot, even with a Plaid dress in White and Brown and Black interspliced with Black Lace, which skewed definitely more youthful than the previously mentioned, Gordon was showing upscale pieces with a sense of a younger take on the idea. In other places, the somewhat badly handled cold-shoulder pieces and some truly just unkempt looking outfits that looked as if they had been slept in and rolled out of bed onto the street, the collection stumbled. There was also, intentional or not, a childlike naif vibe to many of the pieces that came across more Old Navy Kid's section than Saks Fifth Avenue.
All in all, it was an uneven and ever so slightly misjudged effort from Gordon, one that had it's high moments indeed, the White tee and pants at Exit No. 5 comes to mind, which was working a 90's Helmut Lang/Prada vibe to DEATH and "Giving Life" for it, and there were certainly some... LESS high moments that kept the collection from soaring as is usual for Gordon. One would not call it a failure of a collection, but it was certainly a set back for a designer that in the past few seasons has consistently given us some dynamic and achingly brilliant collections. The aching from this collection was bought on for different reasons, entirely.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Wes Gordon Spring/Summer 2016.
Wes Gordon has the mind and fashion sensibilities of Uptown, but a heart that is firmly rooted in the Grunge-era 90's and that unique dichotomy has informed the footprint of his style from nearly the beginning. For Spring/Summer 2016, Gordon followed his heart more truly than ever before and while the collection may have leaned closer to the central part of Gordon's emotional involvement in the clothes produced, it did make for one of his least convincing collections as a whole. Whereas in the past, Gordon produced looks that oozed Uptown Luxe with a Downtown Chic patina, here, the collection played a bit like a diffusion collection. It just in most places did not have the New-Generation Richesse that Gordon has so successfully applied to his previous collections. This didn't in the slightest way make for an unsuccessful collection, just one that was perhaps not the strongest statement from the designer.
In most cases, from the beginning look of a sleek, yet crisp, minimal to the max White coat, to a Deep Marigold Snap front coat with white frock underneath, Gordon was on the right foot, even with a Plaid dress in White and Brown and Black interspliced with Black Lace, which skewed definitely more youthful than the previously mentioned, Gordon was showing upscale pieces with a sense of a younger take on the idea. In other places, the somewhat badly handled cold-shoulder pieces and some truly just unkempt looking outfits that looked as if they had been slept in and rolled out of bed onto the street, the collection stumbled. There was also, intentional or not, a childlike naif vibe to many of the pieces that came across more Old Navy Kid's section than Saks Fifth Avenue.
All in all, it was an uneven and ever so slightly misjudged effort from Gordon, one that had it's high moments indeed, the White tee and pants at Exit No. 5 comes to mind, which was working a 90's Helmut Lang/Prada vibe to DEATH and "Giving Life" for it, and there were certainly some... LESS high moments that kept the collection from soaring as is usual for Gordon. One would not call it a failure of a collection, but it was certainly a set back for a designer that in the past few seasons has consistently given us some dynamic and achingly brilliant collections. The aching from this collection was bought on for different reasons, entirely.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Sunday, January 20, 2019
Jason Wu Collection Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Jason Wu's Spring 2016 collection was frankly, discombobulated. Wu proclaimed the overarching theme of this collection was "Glamour" yet any real sense of glamour, understated or ostentatious, was generally obscured by a quite honestly, puzzling and inelegant fixation on ruffles that were not executed in any flattering manner and pointedly, added nothing but oddness to the pieces they adorned. When ruffles were not the focus, and Wu restrained his design aesthetics to more sporty shores, he succeeded quite brilliantly, but even at that, it was not a consistent success.
When Wu pared back the ruffle treatments and coupled that with a clean modern viewpoint, he made the most of his talents, as in the perfectly judged Bottle Green trench that opened the show with it's fraying edges and scaled back ruffles, was formidably glamourous and sportif in equal measure. Elsewhere, the experiments with ruffles came off as awkward and ungainly, Wu showed a defter hand when it came to items like a Black Leather ensemble which consisted of a Cropped jacket and slightly A-line skirt or the super Ladylike chic of a belted coat at Exit No. 14.
One thing that was abundantly clear about this outing, is that Wu, who made his name on exceptionally conceived and accomplished evening wear, has in his zeal to incorporate a more sportswear bent to his collections, lost touch with what made him the sensational architect of real glamour that he used to be. It was confusing and somewhat, downheartening to see his evening options fail on most levels to be anything more than messy or worse yet, Basic. This collection vacillated between silly, cumbersome frippery, and modernistic sporty restraint. The two halves did not coalesce easily into a pleasing whole and was just the next collection in the long line of increasingly less deftly handled collections for Wu, and that is surely not the definition of "Glamour"
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Saturday, January 19, 2019
Raquel Allegra Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Raquel Allegra Spring/Summer 2016.
Raquel Allegra is a boho kind of gal. No punches pulled there. She's got a Modern Hippie sensibility that was much on display via the Tie-Dye prints, wafting shapes and langourous approach she evinced in her Spring 2016 collection that was her first formal foray onto the NYFW circuit. Nothing here felt like it was in hurry to go anywhere other than perhaps the lido deck of the "Love Boat" The clothes produced here were fresh and modernly urban with a Hippie-Dippy backbone, like the pale Grey hued Tie-Dye caftan that was working as much an evening vibe as it was "Hot Time, Summer in the city" which was perhaps the defining piece of the entire collection. Did the collection break any ground...? Not one whit, but will it satisfy the needs of Allegra's loyal fan base and entice new acolytes... That it surely will! In fine form, no less!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Raquel Allegra Spring/Summer 2016.
Raquel Allegra is a boho kind of gal. No punches pulled there. She's got a Modern Hippie sensibility that was much on display via the Tie-Dye prints, wafting shapes and langourous approach she evinced in her Spring 2016 collection that was her first formal foray onto the NYFW circuit. Nothing here felt like it was in hurry to go anywhere other than perhaps the lido deck of the "Love Boat" The clothes produced here were fresh and modernly urban with a Hippie-Dippy backbone, like the pale Grey hued Tie-Dye caftan that was working as much an evening vibe as it was "Hot Time, Summer in the city" which was perhaps the defining piece of the entire collection. Did the collection break any ground...? Not one whit, but will it satisfy the needs of Allegra's loyal fan base and entice new acolytes... That it surely will! In fine form, no less!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Gabriela Hearst Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Gabriela Hearst Spring/Summer 2016.
With a last name like Hearst (she is married to John Augustine Hearst, Grandson of the media mogul William Randolph Hearst.) much is to be expected from the pedigree of that hallowed name, and fortunately for the world of fashion and Ms. Hearst, she delivers in flying colours on those expectations. This Spring/Summer 2016 collection, (formally her second, she debuted with a resort collection previous to this) Hearst proved she is a new force to be reckoned with on the NY and international fashion scene, as a natural minimalist with a maximalist luxury streak, her clothes exude a understated sense of chic and cool.
There was much to admire and love in this collection, from the ascetic lack of frou-frou on pieces like a lean and spare knit column inn shades of Cayenne, Egg Yolk and Navy, which hit a sporty/sensual note as clear as a bell, to a utterly glamourous and unadorned, save for the built in sculptural gold necklace built into it, White gown which had all the luxurious magnitude of a fully beaded evening number, of which Hearst showed not a one. A dark Olive Green coat with snap clip closures had a enough urban toughness without losing any of it's urbane luxe appeal, and the Pièce de Résistance was a sweeping Indigo Lurex Striped Gauze gown that was could do double duty as breezy vacation dress or quietly opulent evening gown. It was a true master stroke.
Hearst, for her first foray into the big leagues, shows she has a unwaveringly sure hand and distinct P.O.V. that will put her in good stead in the future. She's mining a rich vein of slightly boho, urban minimalist dressing that is occupied by some other players with track records of high distinction, yet if she keeps true to herself and follows her instincts, which as of this moment have seemingly not steered her wrong, she will stay at the top of the roster for many years to come.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Gabriela Hearst Spring/Summer 2016.
With a last name like Hearst (she is married to John Augustine Hearst, Grandson of the media mogul William Randolph Hearst.) much is to be expected from the pedigree of that hallowed name, and fortunately for the world of fashion and Ms. Hearst, she delivers in flying colours on those expectations. This Spring/Summer 2016 collection, (formally her second, she debuted with a resort collection previous to this) Hearst proved she is a new force to be reckoned with on the NY and international fashion scene, as a natural minimalist with a maximalist luxury streak, her clothes exude a understated sense of chic and cool.
There was much to admire and love in this collection, from the ascetic lack of frou-frou on pieces like a lean and spare knit column inn shades of Cayenne, Egg Yolk and Navy, which hit a sporty/sensual note as clear as a bell, to a utterly glamourous and unadorned, save for the built in sculptural gold necklace built into it, White gown which had all the luxurious magnitude of a fully beaded evening number, of which Hearst showed not a one. A dark Olive Green coat with snap clip closures had a enough urban toughness without losing any of it's urbane luxe appeal, and the Pièce de Résistance was a sweeping Indigo Lurex Striped Gauze gown that was could do double duty as breezy vacation dress or quietly opulent evening gown. It was a true master stroke.
Hearst, for her first foray into the big leagues, shows she has a unwaveringly sure hand and distinct P.O.V. that will put her in good stead in the future. She's mining a rich vein of slightly boho, urban minimalist dressing that is occupied by some other players with track records of high distinction, yet if she keeps true to herself and follows her instincts, which as of this moment have seemingly not steered her wrong, she will stay at the top of the roster for many years to come.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Josie Natori Spring/Summer 2016.
Fri. 09/11/2015.
Josie Natori Spring/Summer 2016.
Casting her eye Eastward, Far Eastwards, Josie Natori got inspired by the art of Asian Paintings, focusing more so on Brushstroke techniques rather than actual subject matter of Asian art. Her Spring/Summer 2016 collection was focused solely on evening wear and mostly rendered in Black and White, which allowed Natori to hone the collection to a fine edge and not get caught up in superfluous colour, although colour was not completely off the table and showed up in quirky juxtapositions of Pink and Orange or Straw Green and Silver. Navy was in evidence as well and made for some of the more convincing pieces in the collection.
Natori showed a restrained and minimalistic hand with embellishment and embroidery, which exacerbated the modern drama of the pieces to standout effect. In evidence, a Straw Green Raw Silk gown with a beaded band around the bust and strap which enhanced the dramatic sweep of the gown instead of detracting focus from it. Also, an absolutely divine swath of Orange Silk was totally devoid of any ornamentation and benefited by leaps and bounds for the exercise in purity and asceticism, showing that Natori could imbue her evening offerings with a healthy dose of glamour without paying obeisance to the usual tropes. The most modernistic touch, slim cigarette pants that showed up here and there throughout the collection and spoke to the women for whom traditional, and somewhat antiquated, ideas of evening dressing are anathema. Natori provided her customer with a sleek and artistic clutch of highly desirable clothes for the nighttime, while redefining what evening truly means, in the process one can be sure she enticed in a whole slew of new customers who were just waiting for such fashionable wares to cross their paths.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Josie Natori Spring/Summer 2016.
Casting her eye Eastward, Far Eastwards, Josie Natori got inspired by the art of Asian Paintings, focusing more so on Brushstroke techniques rather than actual subject matter of Asian art. Her Spring/Summer 2016 collection was focused solely on evening wear and mostly rendered in Black and White, which allowed Natori to hone the collection to a fine edge and not get caught up in superfluous colour, although colour was not completely off the table and showed up in quirky juxtapositions of Pink and Orange or Straw Green and Silver. Navy was in evidence as well and made for some of the more convincing pieces in the collection.
Natori showed a restrained and minimalistic hand with embellishment and embroidery, which exacerbated the modern drama of the pieces to standout effect. In evidence, a Straw Green Raw Silk gown with a beaded band around the bust and strap which enhanced the dramatic sweep of the gown instead of detracting focus from it. Also, an absolutely divine swath of Orange Silk was totally devoid of any ornamentation and benefited by leaps and bounds for the exercise in purity and asceticism, showing that Natori could imbue her evening offerings with a healthy dose of glamour without paying obeisance to the usual tropes. The most modernistic touch, slim cigarette pants that showed up here and there throughout the collection and spoke to the women for whom traditional, and somewhat antiquated, ideas of evening dressing are anathema. Natori provided her customer with a sleek and artistic clutch of highly desirable clothes for the nighttime, while redefining what evening truly means, in the process one can be sure she enticed in a whole slew of new customers who were just waiting for such fashionable wares to cross their paths.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Adam Selman Spring/Summer 2016.
Thurs. 09/10/2015.
Adam Selman Spring/Summer 2016.
For Spring 2016, Adam Selman's usual camp aesthetic found an effectively campy inspiré, Taylor Camp, a Nudist colony on a property on a Hawaiian island owned by Howard Taylor, the brother of Screen Legend, Elizabeth Taylor. With that on his mind, Selman actually produced a collection that was perhaps his best to date. Best because, the collection seemed less occupied with said campiness and more on the task at hand of fashion designing instead of storytelling.
With more than a small nod towards the fashion great, Todd Oldham, Selman put up a playful assemblage of outfits that were more grounded in the everyday reality of dressing than in the more eccentric world of clubbing and/or celebrity life. Fashioned mainly out of White, the collection had a freshness that was rooted in the playful. Being that the inspiration was taken from Hawaii, the pieces had a certain beach-y, tropic flair, especially the splashy oversized floral adorned pieces. Selman provided a city worthy counterpoint with bright, punchy Flame Red pieces and some seriously dark denim, which was as grounded as the more sun/sand inspired pieces were relaxed. This segued into some bright florals and then a push of Black pieces that ended the show in a flirtatious and sensual manner.
Selman reached a fine balance between serious and fun that yielded positive results on both fronts, it was good to see Selman reach the potential that has been hinted at in his previous collections but obscured by his fascination with theatrics and yes, his glorious penchant for camp. This collection bodes well for the future and one hopes that Selman takes this ball and runs with it.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Adam Selman Spring/Summer 2016.
For Spring 2016, Adam Selman's usual camp aesthetic found an effectively campy inspiré, Taylor Camp, a Nudist colony on a property on a Hawaiian island owned by Howard Taylor, the brother of Screen Legend, Elizabeth Taylor. With that on his mind, Selman actually produced a collection that was perhaps his best to date. Best because, the collection seemed less occupied with said campiness and more on the task at hand of fashion designing instead of storytelling.
With more than a small nod towards the fashion great, Todd Oldham, Selman put up a playful assemblage of outfits that were more grounded in the everyday reality of dressing than in the more eccentric world of clubbing and/or celebrity life. Fashioned mainly out of White, the collection had a freshness that was rooted in the playful. Being that the inspiration was taken from Hawaii, the pieces had a certain beach-y, tropic flair, especially the splashy oversized floral adorned pieces. Selman provided a city worthy counterpoint with bright, punchy Flame Red pieces and some seriously dark denim, which was as grounded as the more sun/sand inspired pieces were relaxed. This segued into some bright florals and then a push of Black pieces that ended the show in a flirtatious and sensual manner.
Selman reached a fine balance between serious and fun that yielded positive results on both fronts, it was good to see Selman reach the potential that has been hinted at in his previous collections but obscured by his fascination with theatrics and yes, his glorious penchant for camp. This collection bodes well for the future and one hopes that Selman takes this ball and runs with it.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Thursday, January 17, 2019
Rodebjer Spring/Summer 2016.
Thurs. 09/10/2015.
Rodebjer Spring/Summer 2016.
Spring/Summer is the time to take a languid and relaxed approach to clothing, to drape oneself in liquid, flowing Robes and fabrics that catch the breeze and move like dancers on the wind, Carin Rodebjer applied that sensibility to her Spring/Summer 2016 collection and even chose a palette of neutral colours (with a few more saturated hues) to exalt her cerebrally sensual work for this season. In a way, this felt almost Resort-y in it's vibe and had that away from the everyday sense of escapism imbued in it.
To give a feeling of difference, Rodebjer incorporated a rather eye-teasing geometric print amongst the throng of mostly solid fabrications. Shown in two colourways, a soft makeup-y Nude/Rose version and a more eclectic and electric Blue version, which came at the end of a passage of beautiful light and dark blue pieces. In the middle and at the end, Rodebjer showed pristine White and Black pieces which in the midst of such easy, breezy shades seen before, gave a more graphic and elevated punch to the collection and ended the proceedings in a most convincing and fashionable manner.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
Rodebjer Spring/Summer 2016.
Spring/Summer is the time to take a languid and relaxed approach to clothing, to drape oneself in liquid, flowing Robes and fabrics that catch the breeze and move like dancers on the wind, Carin Rodebjer applied that sensibility to her Spring/Summer 2016 collection and even chose a palette of neutral colours (with a few more saturated hues) to exalt her cerebrally sensual work for this season. In a way, this felt almost Resort-y in it's vibe and had that away from the everyday sense of escapism imbued in it.
To give a feeling of difference, Rodebjer incorporated a rather eye-teasing geometric print amongst the throng of mostly solid fabrications. Shown in two colourways, a soft makeup-y Nude/Rose version and a more eclectic and electric Blue version, which came at the end of a passage of beautiful light and dark blue pieces. In the middle and at the end, Rodebjer showed pristine White and Black pieces which in the midst of such easy, breezy shades seen before, gave a more graphic and elevated punch to the collection and ended the proceedings in a most convincing and fashionable manner.
That's All.
Bye4Now!
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