Mara Hoffman Spring/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.

Mara Hoffman Spring/Summer 2015.

When the first look out on the runway is a Head-to-Toe Blue Sky/White Cloud combo print pantsuit, you know you are in for some sunny disposition clothes and good vibes, especially coupled with Willie Nelson's song "Blue Skies" as inspiration. Combine that with prints of Birds, Rainbows, Giant wallpaper-esque flowers and sheaves of wheat and you were looking at a collection that was whimsically ebullient and vaguely Americana-ish. Hoffman didn't stretch herself too much farther than these riotous prints, presenting a pretty mundane line-up of clothes that didn't stretch the imagination or cause one's heart to truly pulse faster than normal. In effect, it felt more like Hoffman felt that the prints were enough of a statement that she didn't need to elevate her clothes too far above basic. In that instance, she was wrong.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Rosie Assoulin Spring/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.

Rosie Assoulin Spring/Summer 2016.

Rosie Assoulin is known for being a Maximalist with a Surrealistic bent to her often oversized and sweeping pieces. For Spring/Summer 2016 she reeled in some of her more ostentatious tendencies and exercised, (for her, at the least) a measured restraint that still oft times, flowed onto the more familiar shores of "Over-The-Top" saying that however, the collection was just as exuberant and eclectic as befits Assoulin, but with a certain subdued quality that was startlingly welcome. Assoulin took from the jump, a less outsized approach by terms of her inspiration, subverting such mundane items as Swimsuits, Pajamas and Undies as the point of departure. She skewed them by making certain elements of these items tremendously enlarged or putting something the likes of, bathing suit ties on and ruching on the bodice of a dramatically sweeping ballgown (A well known signature. those ballgowns)

This somewhat off-kilter approach led to some beautiful creations from Assoulin. From the huge pleated pants or the dramatic swaths of fabric used as ties at the sides of the waist of skirts and pants. This also translated into the final cadre of spectacularly dramatic evening gowns of which a two-piece ensemble of a Burlap coloured skirt with huge godets was paired with a skimpy iridescent camisole top that was the perfect juxtaposition of grand and minimal. Assoulin's more "Understated" approach this season was a refreshing pivot to her usual designs, this collection was as witty as ever with many of Assoulin's surrealist touches, but grounded in a more wearable format. One hopes for continued exploration outside her comfort zone.

That's All.

Bye4Now!

Lacoste Srping/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.

Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016.

With an Olympic theme percolating in his brain, Felipe Oliveira Baptista plucked the motif of a nations flag as his point of departure for the Lacoste S/S 2016 collection. As always, Baptista's interpretation and execution was not only spot on, it was Pitch Perfect. He offered up the moment when a Olympian has won their competition and drapes themselves in the flag of their national origin and the triumph and universality of the gesture as the grand overall connecting theme of the show, and deconstructed and refigured flags of all types and forms (not specifically flags of nations, just the idea of such) into his clothes for the runway.

Owing that sports was the origination of the theme, it was little wonder that most of the outfits exhibited extra sleekness and a fast, sporty, lithe appeal that would befit an Olympian. Bright, solid, sure handed colour was also on tap, mainly combined and juxtaposed with White and Navy. Later, more truer flag motifs were embraced for a brief moment, in a few easy to wear pieces, and brought about a sense of commonality and global community that wasn't heavy handed or preachy, they just brought a smile to the face and a bit of joy to the spirit. After this, the colour palette evolved into juxtapositions of bright splashy brights against cool, desert neutrals. The most effective of these colours was the searing Chili Red and the soothing Khaki Green, which was perhaps the strongest showing in the lineup.

Even though virtually every piece was a total win, some outfits stood on the Gold medal platform rather than on the Silver or Bronze, an Iridescent Olive Green shirtdress was of a special ilk, as was a breezy Desert Grey featherlight poncho that nearly stole the show. To end, Baptista brought home that global community feeling by splicing together flags from the globe over and transforming them into absolutely desirable and covetous sportif pieces that won the race in the most upbeat and fashionable way. It was a triumphant end to a collection that was not only chic, but also, moving. A Nice feat to accomplish, indeed!





That's All.





Bye4Now!