It comes across as something of a Major Shock to the System when one peruses the Fall 2015 Marni collection only to find that Fashions No. 1 Eclectic Eccentric Boho Magpie has not only gone Streamlined, but (*GASP!*) MINIMAL! Oh, Dear! Where's the nearest Fainting Couch? From the moment the Fall Marni show got underway, we knew we were not in the same Vivid glade that is per usual for Consuela Castiglioni! In fact, with all the Raw Edges and Severe Styling, if it weren't for the Shaggy Cave Woman furs and the inevitable 50's wallpaper floral prints so customary of the house, one might have mistaken this collection for Jil Sander or something... NOT, Marni!
SO, it was with a newly minimalistic eye and an inspiration of "Twisted Femininity" that Castiglioni shook out most all of the Hippy influences and proposed something far more Austere and far less Exotic. Sharp, Detail devoid coats and tunics, worn with nothing more than a wide belt or Swath of Fur! Narrow, limb limning pants and near shapeless dresses defined again by those wide belts. Even Castiglioni's colour selection spoke of restraint and sobriety. Earthy hues of Brown matched with White, Black and shades of Beige to open with some Savage furs thrown into the mix to keep things a bit unsettled. Then, Castiglioni began to let her natural inner proclivities shine through as Scarlet and Umber and juxtaposed against Charcoal and Wheat, lending that slight edge of the unhinged to the mix.
As Castiglioni rounded the bases towards Home, Her colours became more Murky and Unsentimental, especially when one considers these colours were used on her favorite Prints, they lent a whole new flavour to the proceedings and Kept the agitation level high... one couldn't firmly get a bead on where exactly Castiglioni was headed, but we knew we were there along for the ride and loving every minute of it. It was a positively giddy experience, even as the Flourishes and Embellishment began to seep back in near the end, what had gone before all that, made this acquiescence to her Safe Zone even more welcome, because it painted an interesting Dichotomy of what was New and what was Old. In the end, Castiglioni, with nary a trace of sentiment and a stringent detachment, opened up a door to a world of new possibilities for the Marni Woman. How far she decides to travel in the lands outside that door is up to her... however the thought of what might lay out in those Hinterlands is Provocative, Indeed!