Thursday, April 11, 2019

Rebecca Minkoff Spring/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.





Rebecca Minkoff Spring/Summer 2016.

Citing Marianne Faithful, the cool girl's near mythic iconic fashion touchstone, Rebecca Minkoff strode forth a not very exciting or fashion forward collection that had more than a whiff of "Been There, Done That!" about it. Not that there weren't some cool riffs on the themes being played upon, it just happened to feel a little blasé and expected. There was nothing new to seduce the eye and nothing interesting enough to create a major fashion "Must-Have" sensation amongst any other than the Minkoff devoted. Is that necessarily a bad thing? Not actually, there's much to be said in playing to one's audience and giving them what they like and/or love. But, in the end, does that truly equate to more than due deference to the client at hand and being so shortsighted as to not reach for more lofty and risky ideas? Whom, truly is to say!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Saturday, April 6, 2019

Dion Lee Spring/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.






There is a spare, almost severe minimalist and ascetic tone to the work of Dion Lee. One that is touched with a hint of fantastical romanticism that bubbles up to the surface in surprising and frankly. gorgeous ways. Spring '16 saw that romantic streak tempered more so than usual and the more stark tendencies of Lee's design highlighted. With a colour scheme devoted mostly to White, Black and Red, this element was the most successful of the collection. Razor sharp cuts gave a relentlessly tough edge to most garments, while the angular asymmetry provided more futurist momentum to the modern looks. When Lee indulged himself in fringing and looping and ruffles, the looks fell short and seemed oddly, out of place. In the end, it was a strong showing for Lee, but one that could have used a more critical eye and way of thinking.





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Thursday, April 4, 2019

Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.





Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016.

Have it your way! Long and lean, full, flowing and boho, or just plain old sexy! Jill Stuart knows her women and she knows her well. Spring saw this insight into her clientele explode with a daring array of looks suited to fulfill all of her clients possible Spring 2016 needs, and then some! From swaying flares to limpid dresses, flou, was an essential component to this pretty collection which was ideally suited to those who were if not in body, were youthful and girly in mind and spirit. Ruffles and satin abounded as did high necks and pouf sleeves, lending an air of the 70's to the collection which straddled the line somewhere between kitsch and cool while not actually diving headlong into either. Stuart doesn't make any claims to be designing for every woman, she's creating clothing for her niche of women that appreciate her sexy, eclectic style, in that sense, she isn't leading the pack in terms of originality, but what she is doing, she is doing exceedingly well.





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Friday, March 29, 2019

Polo Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016.

Sat. 09/12/2015.




Polo Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2016.

From the first look in the Spring/Summer 2016 Lookbook for the Polo Ralph Lauren collection one knew that they were in for a treat and a very different offering chez Ralph. Firstly, there was an abundance of beautiful and to be honest, uncharacteristically vibrant floral prints and saturated Crayola hues that imbued Lauren's usual preppy austerity with a newfound sense of playfulness and energy. Lauren showed everything from Marigold Orange to Electric Lime and all the shades in between with an especial emphasis on Blue in it's variety of tones.

Elsewhere, there were the typical Lauren tropes, which when shown as foil to the joyful bounty of colours on display, showed to be even stronger in their relief to the virtuosity of the colours. From fringe to Menswear checks and denim, (Especially fine in an absolutely BRILLIANT Three-Piece pantsuit) the old standards here worked more so than ever and proved, in the most convincing manner, that the classics never go out of style, especially when given a jolt of eye refreshing colour!





That's All.





Bye4Now!

Monday, March 25, 2019

Novis Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.





Novis Spring/SUmmer 2016.

For Spring 2016 Jordana Warmflash crafted a damn excellent arrangement of pieces that were very architectural, colourful and above all, deeply interesting while also still being incredibly wearable for her Novis label. Working within a palette that consisted of mainly Grass Green, Lapis Blue, Cyan Blue and variants thereof, coupled in every outfit with Black and White, Warmflash's collection had a compellingly graphical element to it that created more interest than it's clean and lean and precise cuts and shapes conveyed. Though, every now and again, Warmflash stepped out a bit and showed something designed for the sake of beautiful fashion alone, most expertly envisioned in a gown of Black net embroidered with Matisse-like Blue flowers. A show stopper if ever there were one. Aside from such minute dalliances outside the spare assemblage of clothes, Warmflash showed how keen her eye is for Colour and Shape and gave a collection that excelled in giving those skills full room to breathe and soar.





That's All.





Bye4Now!


Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2016.

Fri. 09/11/2015.





Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2016.

There was something ideally comforting about Ulla Johnson's Spring 2016 collection that felt at once, homespun and also, thoroughly contemporary. Maybe it was because of the familiar American West/Southwest inflection to most of the collection, or because Johnson didn't apply too much intellectualism to the clothes and just designed things that were created to make you feel good and smile. Not to say great amount of thought wasn't spent on the collection, but the key to that win is that even though ample thought has been expended, the results look effortless. They most truthfully did.





That's All.





Bye4Now!





Saturday, March 23, 2019

Nicole Miller Spring/Summer 2016

Fri. 09/11/2015.






Nicole Miller's Raison d'Etre is not to reinvent the wheel, it's not even to reinvent herself. She's firmly of the school of thought that there is no need to tamper with a formula that is working to try and appeal to a new range of clientele. To that end, Miller is well aware that her fanbase stretches across all strata and social layers and encompasses a wide swath of women, from all corners of the fashion playing field. 

Her Spring 2016 collection didn't in even any remote way move her needle beyond the comfortable furrow she has successfully plowed for more years than she might care to count. In that respect, it was admirably reliable and refreshingly commercial without being trite or boring. What it was not was particularly exciting or innovative, treading waters that she has trod many times before, this time sparked up a bit with Graffiti/Brick Wall prints that offered some feeling of newness, but ultimately, were just nascent additions to her already well spoken fashion vocabulary.





That's All.





Bye4Now!