Jason Wu's Spring 2016 collection was frankly, discombobulated. Wu proclaimed the overarching theme of this collection was "Glamour" yet any real sense of glamour, understated or ostentatious, was generally obscured by a quite honestly, puzzling and inelegant fixation on ruffles that were not executed in any flattering manner and pointedly, added nothing but oddness to the pieces they adorned. When ruffles were not the focus, and Wu restrained his design aesthetics to more sporty shores, he succeeded quite brilliantly, but even at that, it was not a consistent success.
When Wu pared back the ruffle treatments and coupled that with a clean modern viewpoint, he made the most of his talents, as in the perfectly judged Bottle Green trench that opened the show with it's fraying edges and scaled back ruffles, was formidably glamourous and sportif in equal measure. Elsewhere, the experiments with ruffles came off as awkward and ungainly, Wu showed a defter hand when it came to items like a Black Leather ensemble which consisted of a Cropped jacket and slightly A-line skirt or the super Ladylike chic of a belted coat at Exit No. 14.
One thing that was abundantly clear about this outing, is that Wu, who made his name on exceptionally conceived and accomplished evening wear, has in his zeal to incorporate a more sportswear bent to his collections, lost touch with what made him the sensational architect of real glamour that he used to be. It was confusing and somewhat, downheartening to see his evening options fail on most levels to be anything more than messy or worse yet, Basic. This collection vacillated between silly, cumbersome frippery, and modernistic sporty restraint. The two halves did not coalesce easily into a pleasing whole and was just the next collection in the long line of increasingly less deftly handled collections for Wu, and that is surely not the definition of "Glamour"
That's All.
Bye4Now!
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