Monday, June 29, 2020

Derek Lam Spring/Summer 2016.

Sun. 09/13/2015.






A wholly eclectic sensibility suffused Derek Lam's uncharacteristically quirky and offbeat collection that was inspired by a documentary about the tragic chanteuse and pianist, Nina Simone. This impetus infused the collection with a more free handed and outwardly exuberant spirit than may be more used to by Lam, owing to the fact that Ms. Simone was something of a extrovert persona. In many ways, this enhanced Lam's usual urban and polished sportif edge with a interesting aura of the Bohemian, but in a few ways, it muddled his usually concise vision. In the best of the collection, Lam provided the ingredients he always has an abundantly deft hand at manipulating into the most deliciously tasty concoctions, Smooth fluid belted trench coats, sleek tailoring and romantic evening wear with an ever so slight sheen of the hippie, but a lot of that got, unfortunately, lost in the shuffle of Lam's more esoteric ideas, and that wasn't a good thing. 

In truth, it was exciting to see Lam partake of this particular vein of thought, but where it was exhilarating when it worked, mostly it felt underwhelming and, perhaps more to the point, boring. The main problem lay that it wasn't showing a new or refreshed take on this idea, it was manipulated into some "Interesting" permutations, but ultimately it felt lackluster. Lam, usually, unexpectedly upends the tropes he is designing and offers a modernistic yet definitively approachable and seductive vision of the modern urban and urbane woman, sadly this time, she looked common and aside from the richer touches in the collection, she also looked plain. And that, is perhaps the ultimate sin. 





That's All. 





Bye4Now!

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