Saturday, March 18, 2017

Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016.

Tues. 07/07/2015.

Alexandre Vauthier's Haute Couture work does not look like anyone elses on the Couture circuit. That's a good thing. It distinguishes him and gives him exactly what a couturier needs, a distinct voice and P.O.V. even if his work is something of a Crazy Quilt Patchworking of styles that run from 90's era Mugler, crossed with Versace (Gianni, that is) shot with a good deal of Roberto Cavalli and a right proper amount Azzedine Alaïa with just a pinch of YSL thrown in for good measure. That sounds like something of a lot... And, admittedly, it is! But Vauthier seems to whip all this up in his Robo-Coupe and pour out something uniquely and singularly, him!

Fall/Winter 2015 found Vauthier Fringing and Furring and as Body-Con as ever, hems were as always, Ass grazing, the tailoring was, per usual, surgically precise, the slick shine of Patent, Leather, Satin and anything that essentially looked like it was glossily lacquered to within a quarter inch of it's life, prevailed heartily and yes, Cutouts GALORE! (too many mayhaps, actually) What was most convincing of Vauthier's skills this season were the quieter moments, the one's that had no reason to shout and more so, salaciously whispered, which made those moments all the more scandalously delicious! If the fringed leather opening number was a precursor of things to come, it surely prognosticated in a delightful way, for it was as restrained as about Vauthier can get while still applying all the rules of the house codes.

That is, until a superb moment of quiet sensuality sashayed down the catwalk, an asymmetric hanky hem poncho tunic in Black with a deep V-neck was revelatory and made a case that Vauthier should try a dash more restraint in his collections to come, for it was insanely sexy, but didn't announce it's sexiness a good half hour before it's arrival, as many of Vauthier's looks can. And sometimes, one can get more done by by powerful quietude, than aggressive shouting! 

That's All.


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