Saturday, March 18, 2017

Armani Privè Fall/Winter 2015-2016.

Tues. 07/07/2015.

Giorgio Armani was more than obviously a little preoccupied with Elsa Schiaparelli for his Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Privè collection, For Pete's Sake... He named it "Shocking" quite pointedly a homage to the colour famously conceived by Madame Schiaparelli. More apparent than that perhaps was also, the wide swath of embellished indulgence and eccentricity Armani applied to his work, well known to the Italian rival of Coco. It was Gutsy and as the show progressed from "PINK" to other saturated hues contrapunctally juxtaposed by black, one got the feeling of immediate fatigue before the show was halfway over. 

If Pink wasn't the only 30's-40's inspiré gleaned from Elsa, so were peaked "Pagoda" Shoulders, which didn't really add much excitement, to be sure. The collection moved from one overwrought idea to the next without nary a break in sight. Armani's gift of cool, elegant, moody luxury here was so spangly and furry and feathery and bedazzled that it all came off as rather childishly amateur. Excess can be all fine and dandy, but there needs some breathing room in it somewhere to counterbalance the abundance. Armani's best moments here were the ones that didn't wear their elaborate nature like a medal won in a race, like the relatively restrained Black Pantsuit in which the pants were shot through with splotches of brilliant colour. 

The showing was a total miscue, but it wasn't one of Armani's more convincingly effective outings. The major flaw was, everything felt, even with all it's positive and vibrant colourations, leaden and heavy, weighty. It didn't have that lilt of lightness that could have been a major asset to this collection It was not, by any means, the worse we have seen from Giorgio in this Metièr, but it was far from a resounding best. 

That's All.


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