Even though Bouchra Jarrar is a Modernist kind of designer, she has a keen and unapologetic romantic streak in her, as undoubtedly confirmed by her Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Haute Couture collection. She's also a woman who understands that her client and perhaps more broadly, most women of the world, have need of clothes before 6PM. So, the joyous delight of seeing full-on, serious Daywear at her Haute Couture showing was a celebration all unto itself. There was something vaguely Moroccan or North African about the opening look, a striped coat in Black and White worn with precisely cut Black trousers and a slice of a Bandeau top, it looked pitch perfect for the woman of the now, but had something nostalgic to it as well.
Moving on, a Shell Pink Satin sleeveless Trench and trouser combo effectively raised the goose pimples on one's arms, while it's sister outfit a few moments beforehand of an exceptional Drop sleeve peacoat with matching shorts was equally fulfilling. The sleeved Trench/trousers combo in a starlit shade of Periwinkle also dropped one to their knees in worship, and there was something rather deliciously contrarian about seeing Hedvig Palm end the show in something of an Homage to the Greatand Mighty Rigourous Sensualist that was Yves Saint Laurent in a Sheer blouse with Pussy-bow neck and fluid trousers all in Black. Yet, if one thinks that Jarrar isn't the kind of woman made out for evening, sample if you will, Leila Nda in a Slinky, Black slip gown... and then motion to your friends to help you pick your jaw up from off the floor!
Jarrar's kind of couture is the kind that is sorely needed to refresh from all the confectionary and Bon Bon couture we see so much of during the shows. She's is an antidote to the overload of Saccharine and sadly as of this writing, she has stepped down from her house to design Lanvin... let us pray and hope that that house cranks back up it's Haute Couture operations to let Jarrar shine again in this arena in which she excels so marvellously!