Thursday, November 12, 2015


Thurs. 02/26/2015.

It seems somehow, Amazing, how Karl Lagerfeld divides his mind when it comes to designing the Myriad collections of Fashion, Photography, Architecture and more that proliferate from his Fingerless gloved hands! He is the Ultimate Polymath! His brain seems to bifurcate itself, Amoeba-like between his collections, Karl Lagerfeld is one thing, Fendi is another and Chanel altogether something else, and the miracle being... The Twains never meet! Nothing spills over from the Fashion Ideology of one collection into the other collections, they seem to be designed by totally different people almost. Karl is the most Highly Functioning Schizophrenic the world has seen, it would appear!

One would also have to point out, the Subliminal aspect of Lagerfeld's Dizzyingly Febrile Medulla Oblongata! He spoke of the Fendi Fall 2015 collection as being inspired by the architecture of the new Headquarters of the Fendi operations/ateliers in Rome in the Pallazzo Della Civilita, which also keenly brought into relief the work of Italian Artist, Giorgio di Chirico, but that he had no inclination to be Specifically inspired by the space or buildings until he realized his Autopilot Mind had usurped the elements and blended them into the wardrobe after the collection had been completed. 

The columnar White toned looks that opened the show effectively brought to mind di Chirico's Eerie, Surrealistic landscapes dotted with suspiciously out of place Buildings, Sensuous Curving lines and a restraint that was welcome after the beleaguered Spring Fendi collection, which was an utterly atypical fail of a showing for the house. Fall's artistic bent was further expounded upon with the inclusion of Sophie Taeuber-Arp as a Inspirational Touchstone. Arp's Constructivist style was rendered in paneled prints in striking colour combinations and in solid blocks of Colour combined together. Whereas much of the collection stuck to Browns and Neutrals and of course, Scores of White, there were Vibrant Reds, Rich, Gourmand shades of Caramel and Butterscotch, and, Naturellement, Black!

While much could be said of the Panels of Leather (or Pony, or fabric) that abounded in the collection, the necessity to do so is minimal. They gave the viewer much to talk about for their unique and graphic nature, and the Newness of what they added to the pieces they were attached to, but were more an Interesting Divertissement. The real heart of the collection lay in the, as Lagerfeld called it, "Pleasant Aggressivity" Minimalism that verged on Brutalism. There was no Festooning or Imbibing in Ornament this time, made clear by the Dangerous looking Bird-Of-Paradise flowers sticking out, Front and Center, of all the Handbags. Whereas for Spring, with the Hothouse Orchids, things got Droopy and Loosey-Goosey for Fendi, here, there was a Conscious pulling back that lent an edge of, Look, Not Touch to the clothes. Double that up with how Protective and Comfy most of the clothes were and you have a Woman as Fortress Parable for your Nerves!

Karl whipped up a Calm, Cool, Collected, Frenzy of a collection, one that never settled or alighted on one thing or one idea for too long before Pirouetting onto some new ground to investigate and harvest. It's always a Discombobulating experience, the wild ride that is Karl Lagerfeld, One that requires you to Strap yourself in, TIGHT, and be ready to Jete into the Abyss once again, Knowing only that since Karl is the one holding your hand, you have Very little to fear!

That's All.


No comments:

Post a Comment