Anthony Thomas Melillo's Spring 2016 collection was a pure and minimal offering of sumptuousness cloaked in austerity. Melillo's brief treatise encompassed sleek and slickly tailored pieces with easier, relaxed offerings given as beautiful counterpoint. Which shouldn't be much of a surprise, owing that Melillo's guiding motivations have been to create the ideally perfect T-shirt for his woman, and there was ample evidence of those on show as well as superbly cut blazers and slender pants. Nothing here was super attenuated, but all was created to elongate and winnow a woman's silhouette without squeezing her like a sausage in a casing.
The collection had a legginess to it that was in no way owed to abbreviated hems, in fact, there was a since of modest sexuality that was more evocative of sensual than outright vampy. Slim pants gave the illusion of mile-long legs, and all were cropped, either above the ankle or just below the knee. Body limning dresses played with length more casually and freely, playfully going to mid-calf and others creeping up much higher on the legs.
With the collection being so restrained with colour and shape, Melillo designed pieces that were still impactive and eye-catching... A Putty coloured coat dress that opened the looks was a practice in Utilitarian chic that was mouth-wateringly covetous, while a simple Barley coloured shift dress read as austere, but was certainly an attention getter! The scene-stealer though, had to be the Pale Moonlight Silver ensemble of a slim coat and pants with one of Melillo's signature drape-y T-shirts underneath, an outfit that could travel from any boardroom to any party zone this side of the Atlantic! Melillo's sureness in what he does and what he wants to create, gives his collections incredible gravitas and depth, even with simplicity and an ascetic approach being his calling card. To be sure, Rarely has so little had so much Oomph!