If Julien Dossena could tame some of his Eccentric Complexities in his designs for the House of Paco Rabanne, He might just do something Great. As it lays here, He's missing the mark by a Country Mile. Spring 2015 found Dossena in a Curvilinear mood and wanting to expose scads of Toned, Sleek, Feminine Skin and Flesh. It made for an at times, Disconcerting effect that looked more than a trifle Haphazard and Dislocated.
When Dossena erred on the simpler side, he won high praise, a pair of Optic Diamond print shirts paired with Impeccably cut Graphite Blue wide pants were just the tonic against the abrasively experimental ideas that they were counterpoint to. Those twisty, Sportif cutout dresses were plain old Messy and Disastrous. Those Bulky Utility coats on the other hand were stuff that the Urban Warrioress has Lustful dreams about!
After that, everything took on a tone of the Exasperatingly tricky and bogged the collection down, Surely the ideas presented here are Rich with possibility for the Urban Fashionista, I don't take that away from it, and it did have it's own kind of appeal, just not the kind of appeal I find more than Intellectually Stimulating. Dossena is Uniquely talented and has a Crisp Voice with much new to say, if he can distill the best aspects of his Ideas into less Demonstratively Virtuosic work and narrow his bandwidth, he'll be a force to surely be Reckoned with!