Saturday, June 20, 2015


Weds. 09/24/2014.

It was a curious state of affairs at the house of Rochas for Spring 2015, Alessandro Dell'Acqua presented something of a Mixed bag of Goodies this time around after his Radical, yet I feel Incredibly Brave and Original Fall debut. Here, the curious part was the uneasy Juxtaposition of Waifish, Gamine, almost "Lolita" like sexual frivolity, with more Eccentric, Magpie stylings contrasting all the Wafting layers and Faux-Innocence. The most troubling aspect of all this was that the sense of a clear direction was lost and that the collection seemed to meander a bit aimlessly, especially when the proportions of some of the outfits were Expansive, Baroque almost, Counterpointed by Juvenile and Wispy, and frankly, Severely Unattractive opposites.

Dell'Acqua seems to be unsure of exactly how to proceed at Rochas, where left to his devices and had there been more critical acclaim and understanding of his Terrific Fall 2014 Debut, he may have been more emboldened to continue that trajectory, as it was, he seemed like a scolded child who was still insisting on being somewhat insolent and doing exactly what it was he was chastised for in the first place, but learning something of the lesson, he tried to air out his version of Rochas Zanini-isms and that's where he went the most wrong. It didn't ring as authentic and served him no Favours.

When Dell'Acqua stuck to his Guns, He mined the most Provocative Riches... Those outrageously High on the torso belts grew wearisome after one too many trips down the runway, but it was an Interesting Reinventing of the Empire waistline. It helped make some of the most Stunning pieces all that more Stunning for the Newness of the effect. A GORGEOUS Long sleeved embroidered gown at Exit No. 6 was one of those outfits benefitting from the Belted affectation. When repeated in a somewhat similar vein near the end of the show on Lindsay Wixson in all Black, the effect was not so much Jeune Fille as Diva Dramatic! In all that, there were a couple obvious Missteps... sometimes his play of volumes and lengths got the best of Alessandro and made some outfits look Bloated and Unforgivingly Dowdy, especially those Long bulky flared dresses over flouncy hem long pencil skirts... it just looked Schizophrenic!

It wasn't a flawless showing for Dell'Acqua this go round, but it had enough Gravitas in the Winning pieces to save it from being a total Cataclysm. With a bit more of Refining and much more attention to his own Point-Of-View, Dell'Acqua could earnestly make Rochas a Reflection of his style plus the influence of the past, and when he can combine those qualities into a Scintillating Whole, he'll have found the best expression of the Rochas Name.

That's All.


No comments:

Post a Comment