In the last of his collections for the Italian Cashmere House, Agnona. The women's side of Ermenegildo Zegna, the Tedium of designing for this brand, which had begun to show for Spring in a somewhat Confusing Jumble of a showing, was more than Clearly evident. The collection for Fall 2015 had none of the Gravitas and Spark of his earlier, far more inspired work, in his early days at the house. Here, the Sparkle, the Wit, the intellect felt drained away and in it's place... a Staidness that didn't suit such a Brilliant designer, the same designer who almost Single-Handed, Reinvigorated the house of YSL.
The Fall output of Pilati for Agnona consisted of a Brief snapshot of Drab, Carpet looking materials cut into utilitarian coats and separates, some tickled with a Vaguely Ethnic embroidery, over Mannish plaid pants and absurdly chunky, clunky crochet knits. The clothes didn't look... Homely, but they came damn close! What they did feel were Artless and Homogeneous, words one would never dare to think that would be associated with Stefano Pilati! The pieces were and ARE Perfectly wearable... But is that what we expect from someone of Pilati's Ilk?
Maybe, this was best for all involved that Pilati move on and focus on the Zegna side of the equation for a while. He had quite clearly lost that loving feeling that had suffused his work at Agnona in the early days, There was such promise to be fulfilled here, and that it has sunk to the Bottomless sea of Fashion Could Haves... One is left a little empty by the void. One can hope Pilati finds the Ideal Outlet for his Womenswear Creations and pools his energies into that vessel with Fervent Passion, Because the Fashion Landscape is a little less Enjoyable without Pilati's vision dotting the Terrain!