This is not your Mothers Blumarine. Whereas some decades ago (the 1990's) Blumarine was all about Flirtatious and Flagrantly Feminine Frippery, as of the past couple seasons, Anna Molinari has Recalculated what the Blumarine label is and means and how it fits into the fabric of the Modern world and what the Fashion Scene has become as of the mid 2010's. There would seem to be something of a Struggle and Disconnect and failure to contextualize what the DNA of the brand is in the light of the New World. Maybe, that's why Molinari decided to go back to the Early 80's Disco scene for inspiration...
Working, Unusually, with more Shadowy, Muted colours, the Sex Kitten Blumarine woman was on full Display, Scads of Bare leg, Keyhole necklines, Plunging backs... yet that was part of the problem of what was working against the collection. While some of the pieces were quite fetching, A Deep Rose Sweater dress with Patch Pockets was a Hands-Down Success, a lot of it didn't feel very relevant. Much of it felt like it was trapped in a Time Capsule. Molinari seems at a crossroads on how to proceed and looking back, at least in a style like this, is not the answer. The gowns in the Finale that were done in Sheer material with Appliques of Vibrant Velvet flowers were Modern and Sexy and solved the Equation, where as those Heavy Beaded gowns that looked like "Dynasty"era Gala creations did not.
In this New, Fast Paced Fashion world, Many designers have been caught with their asses out in the wind and trying to reconcile what they love to do with what is Modern and Current. Some have adapted Quickly, Some simply were ahead of the curve, and some have been sadly, sinking in the Quicksand with no idea of how to get out. Blumarine seems to be one of the brands that needs to find it's way out of the Muck!