Saturday, December 28, 2013

Rodarte.

Tues. 09/10/2013.







Rodarte.

Being that I have never been on the Bus of followers that have lavished so much Praise up The Mulleavy Sisters, It's been easy of me to cast a far more critical eye on their work and not succumb to sympathetic softness.

This Collection Was Horrifying!

I have Never liked the Rodarte Label and Never found anything remotely pleasant about it to will me into liking it either. Laura and Kate Mulleavy are just Insider Industry Darlings that have had the Fashion Pantheon of Gods Deign them Worthy of being Deemed Fashion Royalty. They are Hacks. And that showed with the Utmost Clarity in their Spring 2014 Collection which was one of the most Indescribably Useless Pieces of Dreck I have ever laid eyes Upon! Ludicrous is too kind a word to ascribe to this Homely Mess.

Not only did the sisters Ape The "Balmain" Look of Decarnin AND Rousteing... But they Did it in such an AWFUL Way! This had none of the Sexual Bravado of The Balmain Look and while Channeling The "Chola" Look of Gwen Stefani's "L.A.M.B" Woman in the mix as well it just threw all of it into the Blender and Prayed it would Puree together into something Tangible and Tasty. It, Did Not.

Remarking on any of the Shamefully Idiotic Ideas that the Mulleavy's Paraded down the runway would be an Exercise in the Torturous! I cannot even say that there was ONE, O-N-E Plausible Outfit in the whole Mess. They Claimed the Inspiration was "Los Angeles" As Amorphous and Nebulous as that sounded the look did feel faintly like the L.A Hair Metal Look of the 80's or the Gang Girls Of the "Boyz 'N' The Hood" 90's However, where those Twains met was a Mystery to all but Kate and Laura!

I expect nothing more than this kind of Schlock from Rodarte. The Sisters are Industry Faves but for the real world... they don't even Register! Their Laughably Tragic clothes are not what Fashion Dreams are made of and they had better reflect on that before they produce another such Prodigiously Terrible Caper as Spring 2014 was!








That's All.









Bye4Now!

Vera Wang.

Tues. 09/10/2013.









What The Hell? That's all that one can be expected to think when Viewing this Astronomically Disastrous Mess that Vera Wang called a Spring 2014 Collection. 

It was Overwhelmingly Overdesigned and Appallingly Unflattering! I don't know what has Gripped Vera of Late, but this Furrow she continues to Plow of Atheltic/Sporty-Avant Garde/Modern Wear Has not only grown Tiresome and Weary, but has begun to verge onto, in the execution of the garments, The Grotesque!

Wang has suffered from the dedication to a style from the Polar Opposite end of the Spectrum of that of Donna Karan in her "New York" Collection but the results are Phenomenally the same... Redundant riffs on the same viewpoint and a continuing loss of Beauty, Style, Chicness and in my humble opinion, Credibility! Whereas Donna is Granola-Crunchy Desert Mesa Earth Mother Hippy Dippy, Wang seems to be Reductionist Athletic Sporty Glam Modernist Helmut Lang Wannabe! Whatever the case may be it strains the mind with the Incredulity of it all! 

It started, Like Most Tragic Stories, In a Good Place. Black On Black On MORE Black and felt Refreshing to the almost Rote succession this season of White on White. Here the Luxed up Fabrics were used in Innovative, Athletic/Sporty Combinations that had Built in Trickery but didn't come off Forced or Strained! It was all quite Sublime, Really. The Technical Mastery of these opening Garments was Formidable! 

However, the Boat Sprang A Leak at Exit No. 10... A Definitely Retina-Searing shade of Blue in a Filmy, Flimsy dress that began to show the overly tricked out side of Wang's Designs... she just began here and rolled smoothly downhill by adding on more and more design elements that served the clothes in no way but to make them totally unrealistic! Like most Leaks in a Boat, had it been attended to early enough and not let to fester... things may have been ok, but Vera Simply seemed to turn her back and continue to row further into deeper waters of the Eccentric. 

Intricate Interlays and Fabric Manipulations began to mount on one another and the clothes just suffered from their own insistence on being so Graphic and Technically Difficult. They Moved Beautifully, Yes. But they Looked less Diaphanous and more Haphazard! It was simply too much! 

Wang used to be known for Effortless Majesty! Her clothes looked  Easy but were Monuments to Exquisitely Excessive Technique and Facility! And they Looked Drop Dead Beautiful!! I don't mean just her Signature Goddess Gowns, I mean her Day Wear too! She has, one would surmise, lost her way in the thicket and has begun to make this her home instead of finding a way back to her True North. Maybe this Now IS her True North... 

Though, if it is, to be sure, she needs to limit the tricks and gimmicks and design REAL Clothes. Not Fantastical, Irrelevant Visions of Virtuoso Technique!










That's All.









Bye4Now!

Timo Weiland.

Tues. 09/10/2013.








It was a Sportif, Flirty Affair Chez Timo Weiland Spring 2014. Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein showed a Casual and Easy Collection with a little Modern Trickery thrown in to give it a Subtle Edge but not send it into Avant-Garde territory. It was Mostly Successful. Some Exits were a little to thin on inspiration and design but the stronger pieces held up nicely. 

Some of the winners included a Graphic Mixed Media Tank Dress in Black and White at Exit No. 4 that was very Sporty and Flippy in the same breath! A White Hooded Tunic with Black Banded welt pockets over a Flip Skirt in Black at Exit No. 7 also had that same Girly/Sporty Vibe going for it. Exit No. 24 gave us the best piece in the show... A Crochet Knit Sheer Stretch of a T-Shirt dress in Graphic Black and Red Was Fresh and Clean while still being quite Femme. 

There were some experiments in Cutouts and Color Blocking that looked Good but felt a little late to the game and came off slightly Askew! And there was the seasons requisite Mesh seen all over the place here and elsewhere as well as the Inescapable White-on-White trend that has came on like Gangbusters this season. And represented well was the Tiny Grungy 90's style Floral Prints that have been popping up without fail too. So, Yes. Weiland and Eckstein Captured the Zeitgeist of the season, and while there were some things that were pushing forward, the rest of the collection simply felt like it was playing catch-up!








That's All.









Bye4Now!



Thursday, December 26, 2013

Badgley Mischka.


Tues. 09/10/2013.







Badgley Mischka.

I have said it before. I will say it again. If a Design House relies strictly on Evening Wear alone, it can never be truly a relevant force in the Highest Echelons of Fashion. The Redundant Sameness of one Beaded, Sequined, Embroidered frock after another strains not only the eye of the viewer but their patience as well. The world does not revolve around Sequins alone. The true creativity of a design house is a Well-Rounded serving of the full wardrobe of a woman. It's the same for the a house that does NOT offer Evening. The world has Occasions in which a Gown is needed in the utmost. It behooves a designer to not offer looks from Morning to Night.

Mark Badgley and James Mischka have been two of the biggest offenders of this design Phenomena and for those obvious reasons have struggled with their relevancy and the seriousness in which the Fashion Flock at large have taken them. It's ever so true that their mastery at creating some of the most Fanciful Evening gowns the world has seen is undisputed, No Doubt. But with that as a basis for a design company, Outside of their profitable Bridal Business... The fashion world has at once revered them for their Beauty Enhancing Gowns and pretty much ignored them otherwise as forces in the fashion industry. Are they comfortable in being seen in this role? One would be interested to know such things but if they truly matter is insignificant.

What DOES Matter is that the duo has begun to recognize (is there ever the case of too little too late in fashion,,, Probably not!) the Power of an offering of Daywear, Even if said Day Wear is of the most Glamourous Ilk! Influenced this Spring by French Photog Lartigue and the Moneyed Women of the Cote D'Azur whom he snapped pics of back in the 20's Lent a Luminous almost Moonlit Freshness to the collection. The colours were Inspired and Luscious... Lilac, Peach, Orchid, Geranium Red, Starlight Blue, Antique Rose. But those were all offerings after the opening of Solid Navy and White. Which had none of the Sober connotations associated with those colours, in fact it felt Blithe and Airy. The Opening Outfits gave the feeling of the models strolling along the Boardwalk at the Beach in Deauville or Marseilles. Of Especial interest was a Navy/White Tweed Effect Taffeta that was cut into a Stunning Wide Neck Fitted sheath dress at Exit No. 3 that had Couture Edge. A Sweet and Soignee Suit in the same fabric At Exit No. 6 was The Definition of Chic.

Exit No. 8 Epitomized Springtime Buoyancy in a fitted little Peplum top over a Flippy and Femme Polka Dot Skirt. From There after a few more Beachy outfits for day, we were firmly in the Badgley Mischka wheelhouse with one devastatingly beautiful evening frock after another. Even with the Overwhelming repetitiveness of one Gown after another, that didn't fully detract from the Exquisite Craft injected into each of these beauties. Some Standouts from the pack...

Exit No. 17 on Stunner Lais Ribeiro was a Simple Dream in Cadet Blue Crepe that would be Close-Up worthy for any Starlet or Social Star and gently touched with embroidery over the shoulders and capping the shoulders in the back it Twinkled more so than Glittered! The White Glam-Fest at Exit No. 24 Had The kind of Liquid Sensuality that would befit any Modern Day Jean Harlow with the Charming scrolled Feather Embroidery in beads at the Waist and Drapee Back. The Lavender Charmer at Exit No. 29, lavishly detailed in White Floral Lace Applique And Beading Was in just a Single Adjective... Remarkable!

There were some Clunkers that suffered from the exact Polar Opposites of Problems, Some of the gowns, while Gorgeous were amazingly Overworked and Overdesigned while others felt Underdesigned and Forgettable. Exit No. 40 Suffered from the Former while Exit No. 42 Suffered from the Latter. But when it was all said and done, The collection came off with such Exquisitely Effortless and Effervescent ease that one was happy to see the edit shaved of a few evening pieces and the smattering of Absolutely Divine Day Wear make it into the collection. Let's Hope Mark and James keep this up!









That's All.









Bye4Now!

Saturday, December 21, 2013

J. Crew.


Tues. 09/10/2013.








Jenna Lyons has Transformed the Humble J. Crew Label from Mall Staple for the Prep Set to one of the the most Current Up-To-The-Minute Labels in Fashion and Carved out a High End Name without the High End Price tags. J. Crew now has it's own Distinct Style of Prep Chic but without the Stuffiness and none of the Suburban Affect of Basic Basics in 101 shades of Blah! In The same way Banana Republic Arced it's trajectory for the future away from the Ubiquity of it's parent Company, The Gap, and pretty much left The Gap to Flounder in trying to find it's Identity as a Company with it's departure of Patrick Robinson, Banana has Created a Very High End look with The Low end of High End Price Pointing. J. Crew has swept in on that wave and made itself even more relevant by storming the NY Fashion Week with it's "Installation" Fashion Shows that are Equal Parts Defile and 60's-Style Happening!

Lyons' Design Director of Womenswear, Tom Mora, set up a Dichotomy between the Expertly cut basics and Whimsical and Covetous Special Garments that had scads of balance and never teetered too far to one extreme. Usually the mix was the message, and the message had a "California Dreaming" Feel by way of Venice... Italy... Not California.

High Points Abound, Look No. 2 was Sublime in all white with Slouchy Pants and a Relaxed top that exuded cool confidence. Look No. 6 featured a Perfect Staple with a Perfect cut, A Navy Blazer that adds Instant Sophistication to anything it is worn with. Here with Denim Shorts and a Printed top it took the seriousness out of the blazer and made it Fun and Whimsical and just a little subversive! A Navy coat with Black Sequin Embroidery thrown over skinny pants in a splashy tropical floral print was serving up a Super Cool Luxe Boho vibe at Look No. 9 and then a Stunning Riff on the LBD at Look No. 10!

Look No. 17 was A Highly Desirable Take on the Toggle Fisherman's Coat in Citron Green with Olive shorts and a crystal embroidered top. And the All White Shorts Suit with Black Tuxedo Piping at Look No. 27 was an easy winner and will be on most Women's "Want" List!

In the Grand Scheme... with offerings like this and the sharp editing eye of Lyons and Mora, not to mention an eclectic and personal Point-Of-View, J. Crew should take it's looks to the Runway and get some real Supermodels of the moment into the clothes... The company can only benefit from doing such, just like Kate Spade! Take it to the Runway, And Soon! The Industry will begin to see the house more seriously and not as a Cottage Industry success by way of Overhaul, instead it will be seen as the Powerhouse of Modern American Fashion that it is! And That could ONLY be a good thing!








That's All.








Bye4Now!

Friday, December 20, 2013

Tory Burch.


Tues. 09/10/2013.









Tory Burch has become a Success Story of the Highest Magnitude. From Humble beginnings and through tumult and strife she has kept herself focused like a Sniper on it's prey on making her business a Mega Success and a Worldwide Brand. All her planning is coming to Fruition in the best of ways... Her Highly Profitable First Fragrance Launch (which has the juice, IMHO, to be a Longtime Pillar for the Brand) Her Dramatic Court battle with her Ex which she came out of relatively unscathed and for the most part... Still Smelling of the Rose! And most importantly, Her Lifestyle Brand of Clothes, Accessories and What-Have-You, which in the Accessory department she is pretty much printing her own money!  But how does all this translate into ALSO being a Major player on the Fashion Landscape and running with the big boys Like Lauren and Kors and Jacobs and De La Renta and Herrera and all the other luminaries in the NY Star System? 

For Ms. Burch, Pretty Damn Easily! 

She has carved her Niche so Rapidly and so Definitively that the "Tory Burch" Look is already WELL Established. The Codes of the house are as easy to recognize as the Overblown Gothic Loge that nearly adorns all her accessories and have made them Coveted Status symbols of the Rich and the not so rich!

That "Tory Burch" Look was in Full Evidence in this collection... City Chic Bohemian with A bit of Tomboy Twist thrown in! For Spring 2014 with Romy Schneider in "La Piscine" as the inspiration, Burch Injected a little bit of "La Femme Francaise" into the collection which added a little Soignee Insouciance to the clothes and gave them some Parisienne Flair!

First Up. A Sweet little Dress on Ondria Hardin in White with a Naive Floral Rebrodee on the skirt that reminded one of a French Country Tablecloth... it was sweet and feminine without being GIRLY! And just the right way to start the collection. A couple more embroidered outfits and then a petite floral print bikini under a swing coat with jewel-encrusted cuffs on the sleeves had Monte Carlo Appeal for the Palm Beach Set. Most of the beginning of the collection was White or prints with a White Ground and worked surely in the favor of the Mostly Green and Blue Botanical Floral prints.

I could easily Rhapsodize about each and every outfit and many words could be spent giving these clothes glowing reviews, but brevity must be the road taken... As hard as it may be to choose some of the Picks of the Litter, I will Shine a light on some of the Best Of The Best.

Exit No. 13 was easily one of the best of the show and just radiated the Luxurious Ease of Southern France, it was Peerless and Pristine. Exit No. 22 had the Mod Thing down to a Science but felt as Fresh and New as the First Buds of Spring. The Web-Like Embroidery gave a Glam Twinkle and the Sleek Cut and Shape kept it Modern and Mod. At Exit No 29 Burch Gave us a Buckwheat Suit with embroidered Neckline that was the Epitome of French/American Hybridization. It had the Sportif Ease of American Sportswear with the Elegant Chic of French Suit dressing that recalled 60's era Chanel!

After that the colours warmed to Coral-ish pinks and grays and browns in the prints and defintely felt like a contrast to the earlier cooler colours. An Excellent Evocation of this pallette was the Absolutely Perfect Creme Coloured Pantsuit at Exit No. 35 with thick borders of Coral embroidery at the cuffs and a Shiny Shantung Shell underneath in the palest Antique Rose.

The collection flowed without fault to the Summery, Bohemian Finale and in just 40 exits simply affirmed Burch's Role in the New York Pantheon and as a Global Player in the Fashion Universe! It was literally, a PERFECT Show. Every Exit was expertly considered and moved from one strength to the next without repeating itself or being at all redundant. It was Smart, It was Covetous, It was... Masterful.








That's All.








Bye4Now!


Friday, December 13, 2013

Kaufmanfranco

Mon. 09/09/2013.







Kaufmanfranco.

Just WOW! What A STUNNING Collection. One Of the Best of the season. I am floored by the Laser Focus and Scalpel-like Precision of this collection. It was a Brilliant Evocation of The Urban Warrior Woman. In a Blur of Icy White to start, the Collection felt like it was Brimming with The Most Studied Confidence EVER! Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco SMASHED It! Hands Down a TOTAL WINNER!

From the Start, It augered in the positive with a Home Run opening Exit In A White-On-White offering of a Linear Blouson top and Pencil Skirt in supple washed Leather. The procession of White just upped and upped the ante on the Clinically Reductionist Motif of these clothes with each exit. A Criss-Cross Top was paired with a Swingy A-Line Skirt and showed plenty of skin and was Classical and Sexy all at once at Exit No. 3, Exit No. 4 was one of the Pinnacle All White Outfits of the season. A Sharp Minimalist Trench with a Sheer Netting Back and paired with SKINNY Pants was a Triumph of Modernity and Sleekness. However, It was Exit No. 9, The last of the Snow Patrol that Was Tantamount to Sexual Climax in it's ACHING Purity and Sensuality! A Gown that would Give Alaia Wet Dreams and was so Expertly Sculpted to the body it looked as if it were an extension of the model...  Adjective Defying is what it is!

After White... Desert Like Nudes and Neutrals that Came at the Perfect Juncture to offer relief to the eye from all that Blinding White of the beginning... A Claude Montana Moment at Exit No. 13 in a Paper Bag Brown Burlap Linen Fit-And-Flare Dress was as Easy as it was Scalpel Sharp! Then a Pliant Safari Suede Trench Dress in Sand for Exit No. 14 was showing Kilometers of leg and was an exciting riff on the YSL Saharienne Look that has been popping up now and again this season.

Exit No. 19 took us to Bond Girl Sexbomb Territory with the Simplest pieces of a Bandeau, Short Shorts and a Loose, Comfy Knit Cardigan that OOZED Primal Sensuality! Then we were back in Kaufmanfranco Home Ground with a Couple Golden Evening outfits, 2 in Swirled Bull's-Eye pattern Plated Sequins in Shiny New Gold  and a Nude gown that covered from neck to wrist and all the way down to the floor in a Vined Floral pattern of Devore Panne Velvet also in Shiny New Gold!

After that Stunning Interlude the collection sailed home on One Strength After The Next... Touching on Black Leather, On Beaded Black Net, Hothouse Geranium Red Pieces and the Finale Of More Icy Blinding Magnificent White... Most Potent on Ms. Ajak Deng In a crossover slit front Criss-Cross Wrap topped Evening Gown at Exit No. 35. It was a Climactic Conclusion to a Breathtakingly Assured and Confident collection that was So Insanely Perfect That it's truly hard to put into words.

Kaufman and Franco with this collection threw down the Gauntlet and let everyone know... they aren't just makers of Glamourous, Expensive Evening wear...they communicated with POWERFUL Fashion that they are ready to take their rightful spot in the Spotlight as Designers with SERIOUS Skills and Exceptional Technique. This collection played like the dream of what every Svelte, Toned, Young in Spirit woman will want to dress like come Spring 2014 and this Blogger can Only, ONLY Hope that Ken and Isaac Keep up to this Gold Standard of a collection they just minted here... Because if they can, The Fashion Cosmos will have a couple of new Stars Twinkling in it VERY SOON!







That's All.








Bye4Now!