3.1. Phillip Lim.
Being a Fan of Phillip Lim's work for the entirety so far of his Career I have seen his collections Vacillate from being either Brilliant and Directional to being Bland and Blase. This collection for Spring 2014 gently hovered somewhere in between but closer to the Brilliant side of the spectrum than the Bland. It was filled with some Astoundingly wearable outfits and had a good backbone with it's inspiration but some of it was a bit Awkward and Ungainly.
Lim, perhaps is the most American in his sensibilities of the New Garde of Major Players in American fashion that have come onto the scene within the last 10 years... many and most of them Asian in fact, But there is something Resolutely SPORTSWEAR About his clothes and that's really a Great thing. Where most designers are trying to Carve their Niche in the Luxurious side of American Style... Lim is content with Plowing the Furrow of good ole Sporty American Separates.
Not to say he isn't LUXE, but his brand of Luxe reads more of the Approachable, Timeless Ilk than of the Hot-Button, Of-The-Minute Ephemeral Mode. His use of Embroidery this season was Particularly Luxe when he translated his inspiration of geodes and Rocks and Minerals into Craggy, Jagged patterns on his pieces... he even opened the show with those embroideries in a Sheer Net Bomber that would instantly update any piece in any wardrobe around the world. These were the some of the best moments of the collection, these Multi-Dimensonal translations of Mother Earth's Geological bounty... but there were many other moments that were just as Desirable.
On Exit No. 6, The Deep Curry leather zip front Bomber rendered Absolutely of the now with it's Grommet Stitching in which Contrasting white cord was looped through, keeping the "Seams" of the jacket together was INSTANT Covet and as it was paired with another "Geode" Embroidered piece it had all the bases covered beautifully. The Patchwork Metallic Suede and Leather pieces in Exits No. 12-14 were in a word... SENSATIONAL! The Vest of Exit No. 12 is going to be on most stores "Most Wanted" List in No Time!
A White Shift Dress at Exit No. 20 had all the right moves of the season and was memorable, even though there have been and will be plenty more white dresses this season... this one stood out Nicely and looked Clean, Spare, Chic and Modern! The Pieces in Blue and Pink Print were also Unique and Special, Especially a Zip Front Cropped Sleeve Caban Jacket at Exit No. 26... SUBLIME!
But as the show progressed, Lim began to indulge in some trickery in the Cuts and Shapes that were If not Exactly Unflattering were Surely Ill-Conceived... Keeping things Simpler would have garnered Much better results... The insistence on showing a Sleeveless Oversized Vest/Coat 3 times in a span of 4 outfits when it didn't work the first exit out was Baffling. It was a Totally Unnecessary Evoking of a Ghesquiere/Balenciaga Trope that wasn't needed nor was ultimately at all flattering.
But saving those bungles... the collection is going to be easy to translate into everyday life and easy to wear while also giving it's wearer A Distinct Fashion P.O.V. And Keeping her Current. More than anything the clothes will work with what's already in her closet and she can Update her wardrobe with Confidence and Ease. Not many Designers are Tapping that Vein nowadays, Saving the Icon that is Michael Kors...
If he Plays his cards right and Refines his vision, Lim may be HIS Generations Michael Kors... And Chillrens... That's a Goal to be striven for in the Utter Utmost!