Olivier Theyskens has had many lives in fashion. From the Arch Romantic Neo Modernist he was in the beginning when Madonna Shot Put him into the Stratosphere of Fashion by wearing his Goth-y Romantic Dystopic Vision of Modern day couture all those many years ago... To when he became the Name on everyone's lips with his Re-envisioning of Rochas where he Ratcheted up the Couture Quotient of Ready to wear and gave even the Major Couture Players some sweaty brows now and again with his now TOTALLY Romantic and Spine Tingling Vision that was Equal Parts Hitchcock as it was Charles James.
Now... At Theory we witness the Further Evolution of Theyskens as he leaves behind all the Dark Drama of his namesake label and the Almost Ceremonial Pomp and Exquisite Couture of his Rochas Days and how has become a Post/Neo Modernist... the edge and downtown cool factors are all quite reverentially covered and the Talismans of that style are fully given their due, but there are traces of that Romantic Vision insinuating itself in this collection.
More so than any collection this season, Theyskens managed something rather Quixotic and in it's own way... Shocking. A new proposal on length that was not clumsy nor was it wholly unattractive. Yes, There were moments where the shocking newness of this idea was a bit much to digest all at once, but when viewed in hindsight, it's strength was formidable!
It Started somewhere at the most ungainly and awkward place below the knee, but in no way seemed either one of those! It seemed Fresh, Young, Spirited and Modern. Shorts started the rounds after Exit No. 1 and were layered and ultra cool looking, especially paired simply with a blousy shirt on top. Simply paired, yes, but those shirts were nothing near simple. There was also freshness in the longer layered looks that started at Exit No. 8. The Mesmerizing effect of long layered over long was Refreshing and Eclectic.
Going into prolix detail would be somewhat demystifying the magical quality of this collection but pointing out some High Water Marks of the show is always in order... Exit No. 10 in Black on Black with a Supple leather duster and long liquid layered dresses underneath was Urban Luxe in the Utmost... Quiet but Not Anonymous. Edgy but not Tricky! Exit No. 17 was a Study in Perfection of Movement... the Short Sleeve Crepe Top with it's Louche Proportions paired with a Long Sparkly striped skirt over an even longer Dawn Pink Organza skirt was Sinuous without being Severe!
Exit No. 18 was another Stunner brimming with Evening Possibility, Long, Lean, Languid in the extreme, it had the proportions to lengthen and elongate and slenderize while still looking Cool and Chic, not Athletic and Sportif. The Lithe Apron dress over Fluid, Glistening Inky Skirt was Sublime, Sublime, SUBLIME! Exit No. 22 was the Home-Run of the collection. Brimming with Masculine Toughness and Elegant Femininty! It had Lightness plus it had a YSL Langour to it that was Sensual and Sexy even though it was doing all it could to sublimate those exact qualities! Describing it does nothing to truly evoke it's Brilliance. Just go Look at it!
This was a Brilliant Evolution of who Olivier Theyskens is... the Gothic Arch Neo-Romantic that he started out as on his own that transitioned into the Highest realms of Haute with his Neo-Classical Couture at Rochas and now into this mode... which seems to be finally coalescing into a Beautiful whole of the two halves... It's quite Entrancing to watch and one can surely feel that there is more Magic to come down the pike...
And Chillrens, I am gonna be waiting right there at the sidelines with my binoculars getting Myself a Good Old Bird's-Eye View!