The Designers of Suno, Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis are two of my favorite designers on the current fashion radar! They have a love of things African and A love of diversity that is Admirable, yet not about glomming onto the zeitgeist... there is a real love of women of Colour and A real commitment to exploring the Influences of the Mother Land and plowing that furrow for all the creative Gold it has to offer!
The duo call their "Suno" Clientele a Maximalist African Safari Girl... which is Quite an Apt moniker. The collection does have a Distinctive Maximalist feel to it, but not Ostentatious. There was Clear Minimalism being explored though in this collection starting out with Exit No. 1 A Study in Icy White that was Spare without being Ascetic or Even... Plain! It had Plenty of personality, with it's Pin Pleated Drop hem on the skirt... but it was Surgically Precise and Reductionist! After this Crisp Opening... the Colours of the The Savannah came into play... Most Beautifully an Especially Spicy Deep Orange that at Exit No. 6, An Asymmetrically buttoned Short Fit-And-Flare Dress in Shantung, Was Ravishing! A Geranium Red Leather Ensemble at Exit No. 9 was also Eye-Popping but Intensely Cool!
Awfully Fun was a Zebra Print that was splashed across a few exits and Injected a good deal Playful Energy! But, then again, there was ample exploration and Mix-Matching of prints throughout... from a Black and White Scribble Floral Print and also a White Splashy Floral Print on a Black background that was Naive and Pretty! Also Newsworthy... A Lattice Fabric that was also embroidered that Had Instant Desire built in but when matched with Gold Embroidered Tops it radiated with a Glistening Shine and a Quiet, yet Vibrant Sophistication.
The show ended on a Modern and Avant trio of Heavily Damasked White Evening Pieces that were New and Fresh Takes on evening and will appeal to the Hip and the Less Hip as well! Max And Erin have cultivated a Very Inspiring and Very Eclectic Signature, one that is winning them Raves and Accolades as well as a growing clientele!
I, for one Chillrens, Am As Happy As a Clam!
Edun has tried to be both Ethically Sound and Fashionably Sound as well... While the former may have been achieved with flying colours, the latter has been a bit of an Up-And-Down affair. U2 Megastar Bono and His wife Ali Hewson Started this label which is part of the Huge LVMH Stable and is not yet the Luminary in their Universe, but with Danielle Sherman heading the label now... I Forsee that changing Forthwith!
Starting Out... She has spun a Particularly Spellbinding tale for Spring 2014 that Touches on All of the Bases of the Season so far... The Ethnic Motifs... The use of Graphic Black and White... White on White... Urban Modernity and even touches of Exotic Colour! Sherman has the pedigree to make this label ascend to the highest fashion ranks and showed considerable Skill and Intuition in this debut collection.
The Previous Designers At Edun had some good ideas, but not the most inspired execution. Sharon Wauchob who Failed to raise the heat above a bubbly simmer... Sherman is turning up the heat to a good old Roiling Boil! Firstly, by Hitching up the Covet factor several dozen degrees and tapping the Urban Cool vein while still trying to propose something, if not NEW, Perhaps New...-Ish! Secondly, The New-ish inclinations were achieved by exploring some serious Ethnic Motifs and not exactly mimicking anything specific, but making it just,Tribal enough to give one the Intimation of Zulu or Ndebele or Masai... There wasn't an Identifiable Tribe... but it felt like it may have been some long lost Nomadic Tribe being unearthed and put on display!
Street Savvy Layering was the Clothes that came at the Opening Bell and is also showing itself to be an inescapable trend this season, but even though some of the pieces... At Exit No. 1 a Boxy topcoat, At Exit No. 6 a pair of Full Trousers... were roomy the overall silhouette was Lean. And even with all the graphical goings on the collection it had a spare minimal Approach. There was also Of-The-Season Sportif about the Skinny Legging pants that were underneath the Grey Exits No. 9-10 But then again the Mood of Sport Fashionably pervaded this Most Cool of collections.
Exits No. 11-12 were Breath Stealers... Black Button front Pajama style tops with White skirts with Black Leather Side Stripes... HALLELUJAH! Just the perfect touch of Fashion to something easy and beachy!
It all felt so Resolutely Modern. So Urban, so the way any Chic Woman around the world wants to dress... Hip, Edgy, Slim, Aerodynamic! This would be as clear a Fashion Hit in Miami as it would be in Chicago, From Atlanta to Detroit! A woman would feel Youthful, Spirited and Strong in these clothes.
The Altruistic Leanings of the label only make it that much more desirable when knowing that while Looking Good, one can also Feel Good and Do Good by buying and wearing these Insanely Stylish Creations. Bono and Ali have finally found the All-Star Batter that will deliver Home-Runs like this one with consistency. Will there be Consistency, one cannot say, this is only one collection so far...
However, Chillrens... For a First At Bat... Danielle Sherman Hit it Way, WAY Outta the Park!!!
Alice + Olivia.
Stacey Bendet presented a perfectly Pretty and Wearable Collection for Spring 2014 for her Alice + Olivia Line and worked a Delightful yet ultimately, Boring Retro/Nostalgic Edge that rendered the collection Seamlessly Elegant. A Modern curve was cut out by the usage of Cropped tops and long skirts.
This didn't present anything Modern or Forward looking in the collection but there will be a Coterie of women who will find this collection fitting into their fashion view of life. It wasn't Earthshaking nor Particularly of the Here-And-Now Fashion-wise, but there was nothing objectionable or unattractive about it either.
Bendet isn't going to set the Fashion world on Fire with this collection, but she will make her Niche of women look quite beautifully Appointed.