Zero + Maria Cornejo.
Insofar this season there has been a Deep resurgence of Urban, Edgy, Street Nomad Cool of the Helmut Lang Oeuvre, which in no way is a BAD THING, Mind You! But it can be a Tricky, Slippery Slope to navigate in Untested and Less than Confident hands. That exact unsteady hand has shown itself amongst numerous collections so far this Spring and has bogged down many a Designer who do not have the Language down pat to speak in this dialect!
Maria Cornejo is Fluent in this language and actually has her own words to add to the Lexicon. She is working The Urban Nomad Vibe without peer and in this collection for Spring 2014 showed her chops as an Edgy Modernist with an eye towards the Chic and not the Experimental. First out... a Softly Sculptural Cocoon Coat with Short Sleeves and Angled Patch Pockets in a Sublime Shade of Taupe worn with a Draped Jumpsuit underneath in a Makeup-y shade of Cocoa. Over the next few exits This sublime combination Morphed and refined itself in magical combinations... Most Impactfully at Exit No. 3 in a Self-Belted Waist Jacket with draped Dhoti Pants... Now I particularly LOATHE Dhoti pants but these with their Attenuated Legs were Perfection!
Cornejo said she was thinking of "Deserts, Earthiness and Uniforms" And was quick to point out that it wasn't "Granola Earthy" She was envisioning! Good thing because Ms. Donna K. is mining that Territory for all it's worth and the results are not Pretty! So... One was happy that Cornejo didn't go that route. After the Dune shades of the opening outfits the Colours Transmorgrified into an explosion of Riotous Jewel Tones Inspired by an Exhibition in Paris of antique Mirrors. This then Transitioned Beautifully into Night in the Desert... Inky Midnight Blue and Black combinations that were Incredibly Sophisticated.
More Prints lay ahead as well as a passage in White-On-White (An Inescapable theme this season!) but one of Cornejo's Vision of this Theme was a Stand Out... Exit No. 17, A short sleeve asymmetrically buttoned Soft tailored jacket with Smooth sleek pants and a short skirt layered over the pants... Chic City Nomad!
But Cornejo showed her Uptown Tendencies in Exit No. 26... A SMASHING Bone Leather Caban Jacket with 3/4 sleeves over a black leather Mesh Empire top and Matching Smooth and Mesh Leather Skirt. It Embodied Fresh, Modern, Urban Chic while being Luxurious and Innately Stylish! Also, Worthy of note, Exit No. 32... A SUPER Sleek Offering in a LBD of Sensual Simplistic Brilliance with Textural surface appeal and Aching Sexiness!
The show finished VERY Strong with some Bi-Level dresses for evening that redefined the Bi-Level Dress... not an easy task to accomplish! But accomplish it she did! And moreover... She accomplished designing a Collection of Epic Strength and Immense Innovation and Style!
Ms. Cornejo Enraptured me with this collection and stood far out from the pack this season with a Stellar Lineup of Fashion! One that has hooked me and I, Chillrens, Am left wanting MORE!