Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Jil Sander.

Sat. 02/28/2015.

One can often find their Strongest and Loudest voice in Simplicity. Rodolfo Paglialunga did just that for his Fall 2015 Lineup for Jil Sander. Purity of Line and a Strict Adherence to (Virtually) No-Nonsense clothes made the collection have a Walloping impact that sent Frissons up and down one's spine. It was a Veritable feast of Clean, Pure, Lean, Spare Ascetic Masterpieces, Focusing mainly on Long, Severe coat, this piece was the basis of most of the best looks in the show. In either the Inky, Tanzanite Blue version that opened the show, Collarless, Wrap Waisted, Essential. Or in a Boning Knife thin Trench version on Alexandra Elizabeth in Vellum Leather that caused the heart to flutter. 

It didn't end there, Sleek Dresses that had equally the feel of Francisco Costa and Raf Simons, (the Simons association was hard to miss, especially in the Black Mink that set atop Chino coloured trousers that brought to mind Simons Fall 2014 Dior Couture collection!) but here the personality was certainly tweaked to suit Paglialunga's Inclinations... The Artistic Zeal, The Ascetic Sparseness, which one could posit, Costa and Simons actually inherited from Sander herself (Simons did helm Sander before he sailed to Dior's shores! One to think on!)

The Suits and Dresses followed the lead of the Coats, while the Separates were more, Extrovert and perhaps even, Eccentric. These more offhanded pieces balanced out a collection that could have been too reserved, Save for the Bold choices in Colour, had they not been incorporated into the mix. As was being mentioned though, the Suits were Scalpel Sharp and Cut to Perfection, Like the Boyish Black Pantsuit with the Searing Tabasco Red top and Squash Yellow blouse underneath, or on the Dress front, the Immaculate one on Tami Williams at Exit No. 19.
Paglialunga showed a Studied and Pristine collection, one that had Verve within it's Quietude and Chicness in it's Taciturn Minimalism! It was a Stunner, a Winner. A Showstopper! More like this and Paglialunga might just elevate Jil Sander back to it's Lofty Perch of olden days!

That's All.


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