Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Roberto Cavalli.

Sat. 02/28/2015.

Ocelot Prints, Chinoiserie, Cutouts, not necessarily new ground being trod by Italian designer Roberto Cavalli at his house for Fall 2015. The clothes were not exactly boring or repetitious, though they did suffer from a certain scent of the Familiar. Cavalli's collection was as Feline Sleek and Sexy as always, however, the feeling that Cavalli was just treading water until the New Sheriff in town comes along and breathes some new life into the label. 

As it is known, this would be Cavalli's last collection as House designer, he will not be leaving the company he has been at the helm of for more than 30 years, Peter Dundas, of Pucci, became his successor in the Fall of 2015 designing the Spring 2016 collection and making this Cavalli's Swan Song. As Swan Songs go, it fell a little flat. The collection felt flat and inert, there were exciting moments, but this could have been any number of Milanese Designers collections. The personality felt either radically subdued, or totally drained from the proceedings. Even with the Wong Kar-Wai/ "In The Mood For Love" inspiration to bolster it.

Per usual, the clothes were all living up to Cavalli's Exacting, Demi-Couture standards, Exceptional Fit and Cut, Elaborate detail and embellishment, Lush and Expensive materials abound, making the endeavour not a total wash, Still and all, it didn't cause anything above a Gentle Excitation, no Full-On Ecstasy here. And, to be sure, much of the last 1/3 of the collection could have been scrapped... especially those fringed pieces... WHAT THE HELL? Just, NO! With a Capital NO!

At this writing we all of you, fair readers have seen what Dundas' Debut at the house was like and whatever the opinions on that (my review to come) this collection felt like it was waiting for something to happen and coalesce that never came to fruition. Was it Bad? Hardly! But the better question to ask is... Was it Great, The same answer from beforehand applies.

That's All.


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