Thursday, April 28, 2016

Emanuel Ungaro.

Sun. 03/08/2015,

So Finally, Fausto Puglisi gives us a coherent and stylish collection for Emanuel Ungaro. Fall 2015 looks as if Puglisi has curbed some of his worst tendencies and settled in on a TRUE Ungaro look for his latest collection. It wasn't a collection free of complications, in fact, it faltered in all the typical ways that Fausto Puglisi's collections falter for Ungaro, saying that, however, the collection was much more a triumph than a failure this time out.

From the start, we could observe that Puglisi was exploring new territory and reining in some of his less successful habits, by truly uncovering the past oeuvre of the name over the door of the house. Cohesion this season was mainly achieved by keeping the palette limited to Black and White with some Gold thrown in for a Luxe effect. Restraint also played a major role (Whoever would think that, knowing the past of the house, RESTRAINT, would ever be a watchword to follow??) towards making this collection more accomplished than past ones.

Beautifully cut coats, some with Wide sweeping lapels, Flirtations Polka dots, Le Femme Francaise Ascot neck blouses and even some Very Ungaro Pleating all added up to a Whole where the parts were just as important as their sum! Not everything hit the mark, Puglisi still has taste issues where his eponymous label and Ungaro are concerned and a bit too much of the collection came off looking Cheap and downright slutty at a few points, but when he did hit the mark, it was a Confident and Assured outfit striding before our eyes... Riley Montana in an Ivory textured coat with Black revers and Black Mattelasse trousers with a Glittery Ascot neck blouse was perhaps the most sophisticated and outwardly Chic outfit to be seen. Though, the opening exit had much in the way of Kick-Ass elegance going for it too!

This by far was the best we've seen so far from Puglisi at Ungaro, It was Chic, Sexy, French, and dutiful to the house codes without a trace of slavishness, there was much to love and much to desire, even with the hiccups, Puglisi needs to continue on this course, because before this collection, his efforts have been mostly abject failures, Finally, he's pulled it together and the outcome is surely encouraging!

That's All.


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