Wednesday, April 13, 2016


Sat. 03/07/2015.


While the Mugler Aesthetic of old is something of a tough act to follow, it is also something that, considering moving the label forward, should not be adhered to with any slavish sense of respect and fealty. However, if David Koma is actually going to make the label work in the modern scope, at some point, the huge elephant in the room of the Maison's past is going to have to be addressed in some fashion. So far, Koma has avoided any direct allusions to the work of the house founder and at the beginning, this has worked in and of itself as to presenting the Mugler of the NOW... but when the collections have been as unimpressive as they have been thus far, Koma might consider a deeper delve into the archives to come back with some historic inspirations to reconsider in a more Current Mode.

Seeing as there is little in the Fashion of now that is even remotely outrageous, the World of Le Mode could do with an Injection of some of Mugler's High Camp, Over-The-Top Insouciance now. Koma, could indeed benefit, from such a jolt to the system, because while he has taken the Futuristic vein of his own line and of Thierry's almost Jetson's sense of style into hand, his collections have been interesting, yet Anemic. Fall 2015 was simply more of this. Taking Computers and an almost "Tron" inflected style from Circuitry and Motherboards, Microchips and the such, the collection DID feel Avant, there was nothing that got the blood bubbling above a lukewarm simmer. Grommets and Bronze Metallized leather can only do so much to inspire ardor.

There were precious few moments that catapulted the collection beyond memorable. In fact, it was the simplest of pieces that caused the pulse to quicken, and that mostly occurred in the clothes that combined Black and White. A Shift in White with a Black inset in front was recalling the Mugler Heyday well, and the Tailored suits were Sharp and Sleek, but they didn't have that Aerodynamic Swagger of the suits of olden days. Koma has the skills to elevate the label to the next echelon, but firstly, he needs to realize that the past of the house will be his key to opening the door to the brightest future!

That's All.


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