Thursday, September 3, 2015

Burberry Prorsum.

Mon. 02/23/2015.

Honestly. Not Christopher Bailey's best showing for Fall 2015. There's no need to go into Stultifying, Elaborate detail, It just missed on most fronts that it was aiming to succeed on. The prints and colours were akin to dreadful, (What is it with these WRETCHED colours this season!? Fall 2015 is shaping up to be the Season of the Queasy Colour Mix!) and the Boho Granny gone Sexy look was a misjudgment of incalculable measure. Bailey was calling this mishmash, "Patchwork, Patterns and Prints" and that it was, a veritable Hodgepodge of all, and none of it added up to more than Confusion. 

The collection was hopping on board that Steaming Juggernaut of 70's Hippie/Boho inspiration that has infected the Fall 2015 collections like the Strigoi, What the worst part of that co-opting is essentially, Bailey added not one single iota of anything fresh or interesting to that ongoing conversation this season and Even more of a Fault, this collection felt entirely all too familiar. Bailey has been Trawling these Waters at length and has not dredged up anything special in a while. The Inflection this season may have been somewhat different but the Dialect was the same. 

The Saving Grace was that Bailey is no Amateur, and even in a weak collection he has many pieces that will beat even most great designers on their best day! Every variation of Fringed Cape/Poncho and Tapestry printed Trench was a winner without question! The Patchworked and Hand-Painted Suede versions were mouthwateringly luscious! As also were the PLUSH Furs that garnered much lustful admiration. But the Heartstopper of the collection was a Drop Dead Sensational Fringed Yoke Buttonless Suede Trench in Toast! It Sang out among all the Eccentricity, a Lone Bell in the Distance of an overcrowded Wood! It was Fantastic! 

Bailey knows how to make stunning collections from Front to Back... But this one was not one of them! The theme was played out, the hearty Belting of singer Claire Maguire was a trope that Bailey should put to Death, Immediately for his shows, and the clothes felt Contrived and Gimmicky. The simplest pieces in the collection were the best and the really, truly, utterly and inexorably radical thing for Bailey to do would be to strip all that Extraneous Detritus away and offer a paired back, Clean, Simple collection of Really Strong, Unfussy clothes. Now, that would be something to Sing About, Indeed! 

That's All.


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