Thursday, September 3, 2015

Christopher Kane.

Mon. 02/23/2015.

As with most Christopher Kane collections, Fall 2015 had way too many Non Sequitur ideas going on for the collection to feel as if it was all part of the same show. The passages came Fast and Thick and just as you were about to get a bead on something or get to digest that idea, Kane shoves another course down your throat and you still haven't really finished with the previous one. Maybe in Kane's Fast Working mind, the sections make sense as a whole, unfortunately, I am not of the same mind and this was again an experience in the Discontinuous.

We know Velvet was a big thing for Kane the season, as was the Anatomy of the Body, taken to it's furthest point in the finale of anatomically correct Shadow figures interconnected in a Orgy of Limbs and Breasts and Cocks. Whereas Kane may have been going for Shocking, it transgressed well past Shocking or Gratuitous and into the Macabre! It wasn't Clever, or Controversial... It was downright Unsettling! The lifeless panels of Human length Lace, Swirled together to make the pieces, portrayed more of a Necrophiliac frisson than one of Scientific Exploration and Depiction. A bunch of Limp, Lifeless Bodies arranged in some Morose Tableaux Vivant around the body. 

Aside from that, Kane's tailoring skills and dynamic imagination were on display in the best pieces of the show, A sleeveless Sheath with graceful Velvet panels inset into them, looking like Silhouetted shadows of the Human form were Exquisite and Vibrant, As was a Muddy Blue Croc embossed Leather coat that was as Chic as Hell. Though it was a Black Velvet coat with Jewel shiny, Push-Click closures that was Prim and Modern but simmered with a gentle undercurrent of Sensual that Stole the Show! 

Kane again was trying so desperately hard to prove just how Clever and Astute he is as a designer and also, how Facile technically he is. As is the case when he goes off on these "Look At Me and My Talent" Tangents, they seem Vacuous and Permissive, He Knows he is Talented, WE Know he is Talented. For him to always brandish this fact and trying to Impress with his Aptitude is quite Bluntly, Snotty! He'd go further with letting the technique do the talking and not the narrative or his Vainglorious desire to demonstrate just how creatively Dexterous he is! 

That's All.


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