Philipp Plein's woman is one Bad-Ass Bitch! She's Sexy! Strong! Powerful! Rich! And not ashamed in any way of letting the World know all of these things about Her. Basic is NOT in Her vocabulary! So, it was with Acres of relief that Plein let this Woman loose upon the World. A Jet-Set beauty who is as comfortable on a Private Jet as she is on a Yacht tooling around the Cote d'Azur! But you better believe, she's always where the Action is! And most likely, the Firestarter of most of the Action! Fall 2015 for Plein was a return to form after a Puzzling and disappointing Spring collection. This was Raunchy and Gutsy and Take No Prisoners Unapologetically Sexy and Tough!
Plein also played it Classy as Hell in places, showing off his Taste and Chicness with Stylish and Cosmopolitan looks that played against the more brash pieces wonderfully. Like the SUPER Slick Patent Coat early in the show, which while having a Rock 'N' Roll demeanor was faultlessly Refined. A "Le Smoking" Pantsuit later in the show also had that air of Raffinee and Louche, in equal measures, especially worn with a Much Skin revealing top and Crystal encrustations on the Collar! Plein also showed his best hand in the Luxuriant and Sportif way he had with Fur. From a Black and White Varsity "Sweater" in Mink to the "T-Shirt" on Nadja Bender that had "Warrior" Emblazoned on it!
Evening was where we saw the strongest clothes from Plein, If only hours earlier we bore witness to fellow Glam Squad Memeber, Fausto Puglisi, channeling Gianni Versace for all he was worth, Plein was decidedly doing the same in his Evening wear, although there was just as much allusion to Hedi Slimane and Olivier Rousteing, or in parallel, Peter Dundas and Roberto Cavalli... All of whom owe a Debt of Gratitude to the Grandmaster Versace for their Risque Evening offerings. However, it was the Slimane/YSL vibe that was being most apparently envisaged. That did not stop Plein's Eveningwear from being Devastating in it's own way, in the least! A Black Crepe Jersey gown on Binx Walton, with one side of the Top half of the gown Bedazzled with Crystals and slit up to High Heaven on the other side, Would have done Gianni Proud, while a Fortuny Draped and Pleated Jersey gown Criss-Crossed with Crystal Studded Leather straps would have made Him Weep it was so Flawless and evocative of Gianni's oeuvre!
In the end, Plein simply put on a Wham, Bam, Thank You, Madame Helluva show! One that showed why he belongs in the Milan Fashion circle, and why he has the ability to stay there. It was a Gutsy and Balls-Out collection, not one made for Wallflowers or for Women who care more about Subtlety than Full-On Blatant, In-Your-Face Sexuality. Those type of women exist in ever increasingly larger amounts and they all seem to have more Money than Inhibitions about being Provocative and Sexually Daring! We all know a few of those kinds of Women, in this current moment of Popular Culture! Don't We?!?