Haider Ackermann is somewhat in need of a Refresh. His Fall 2015 collection looked half like he was applying for a Job at Chanel and half like he was dressing the New York Dolls. Incongruous... In a word, Exactement! Ackermann's collection left much to be desired and had little to desire. It was a more Tough take on his usual limpid (or in the worse cases, sadly Limp) wares and was swirled about with some Tweeds that looked as if he had been studying at the Elbow of the High Priest Lagerfeld, yet had none of Lagerfeld's Deity-like Savoir-Faire!
Ackermann said he was inspired by "The Violence" of life and Scars and that showed in scratchy stitching and and piecing together disparate elements to craft some kind of new whole, and ending up looking, frankly, Boring and Disheveled. Now, Ackermann has been known to work a Disheveled vibe for all it's worth, but this Go-Round, it didn't inspire or plainly, Work. When he restrained himself and concentrated on Sleekness and his incredibly facile lithe body-limning cuts, he won the day, magnificently realized in a Super Chic and Slender-making Black and White jumpsuit on Nykhor Paul that OOZED with Coolness! And that Superbly Austere Asymmetrically buttoned Black coat on Iris Strubegger... Pure Perfection!
This collection had much good in it, and one didn't have to search for it either, but after about the first 10 exits, things began to disintegrate quickly. It didn't so much as fall apart as there wasn't much keeping it together to start with. To say there was a lot going on and not saying much, pretty much sums up the whole humdrum affair. Again, a refresh is needed to get this house back in order.