Starting Off Afresh with the Shows from 02/08...
A Sharp, Strict, Urban and Tough Chic Collection that seemed to Hit all the right notes in all the right ways! From the First Exit, A Severe Black Coat with Sleeves that Zipped off at the Bicep and gave the wearer a whole new look for the garment and that was one of Azrouel's Major tropes for the collection and were all done in Contrast to the Body of the Item... Contrast Sleeves and Bodices were also another Major point in this collection and gave Freshness and a little Variety to many of the Body Concious Looks! There were some FINELY Cut and Interesting looking Suits this season and the suit seems to be coming back strong this season as well as some Beautiful Outerwear! Exit No. 14 was of Special Interest as it was a deep Bordeaux Cape with the armhole closed by those same zippers that connected the sleeves of the Jackets and was ESPECIALLY Tres Modable! Also to Covet, Exit No. 20... A Deep Caramel Coloured Topcoat with a hidden button closure that just screamed to be in a woman's Must Have Fall wardrobe! And Exit No. 29 was A Major Gasp Moment... Pristine White on White... As easily a day outfit as it could be a Cocktail option or a Stunning Evening look for a Urban Tough Girl on her way Uptown! Alana Zimmer in the Final Exit was wearing a Gown that Radiated Chic with Grit and Edge, The kinda gown that would be Especially Fetching on Angelina or Rihanna... It was Body-Con to the Nth Degree and Sleek, Sexy, Modern and All Evening without the Pageantry or Pomp. It was COOL! Many evening gowns never even get the chance to see that Moniker with a Telescope!
Like I mentioned in a Previous Post about Kate Spade, Greg Myler's Sure hand and Fully realized Signature for St. John should be held on one of the Lincoln Center runways for Spring. This collection was as good and was BETTER than much that is already being shown on the runway! It was Perfectly Styled for his Fall theme which had a distinct 40's Vision of the Brooding Strong Woman A La Lauren Bacall and Veronica Lake with a Soupcon of Marlene Dietrich thrown in! The collection moved away from the Knit-Centric Yesteryear when The St. John's ran things, Nostalgic and Fun as those days were... this is for Pity's Sake 2013. Something HAD to Change. The biggest change, FOR THE BETTER, the non-reliance on the Famous St. John Knit for it's New Hauteur! the best outfits were the deceptive ones... ones that were the house knit but looked like woven as in the case of a Damn Sharp Olive Military jacket that looked like Wool, worn with beaded trousers! Nouvelle Vague Indeed! Or the Tobacco Fur Coat with Leather sleeves belted at the waist... The Asymmetric Cobalt Wrap Cape Coat was one of the best pieces seen so far this season in it's Flat Brushed Flannel Fabrication, Just DIVINE! There were also some outfits that strained a little to be more Offhand and less pristine and it injected some welcome slouch and ease into the collection but they were not really necessary! They were Fine, Thank You Please and Kindly, but the collection was Mining so much Gold that it didn't need the Iron Sulfide of these looks! but there were Two Stunners that Fully Realized the past and the Legitimately Fashionable Future of St. John.. one the Long Knit jersey like Evening skirt in Black with the White Filmy, Silky High-Neck Blouse that was EFFORTLESSLY Sexy without showing but one tiny slash of skin at the blouse's Keyhole neck... and the other... one that could have walked down any major runway, from Kors to De La Renta to Herrera and would have fit in no question... the Mouth Dropping, Scintillating Deep Aqua Satin Bias gown with the one shoulder Drape. Just Look at it and tell me it isn't worth whatever St. John is Charging for it!?!? We all Know That when the ladies who St. John their Wardrobes to death step into the Boutiques they are going to find riffs on these ideas in the good old Reliable Stolid SJK Knit and are going to be happy that those old Hoary standbys will have a TOUCH of the new look Myler is injecting... if He is anything other than IQ-Less he won't try to Redefine the entire Engine of the St. John Machine... he'll simply keep designing the way he is and Upping the ante on the true Fashion Quotient of the House and when those Gals who don't already own every possible permutation of St. John suit and dress in their wardrobes step in a Boutique they will be comforted to find that Myler is giving them Of-The-Minute Fashion... and The rest will take care of itself... proving,
If You Design It, They Will Come!