First. Let me just say this.... I LOVE JASON WU! LOVE LOVE LOVE His Stuff! He is the New Guard like Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors and Isaac Mizrahi And Todd Oldham were back in the 80's/90's! He is AN AMAZING DESIGNER (And Please, Finish that Fragrance, Buster! :-D We KNOW it's gonna Smell DELICIOUS!) But in Saying that.....
This was NOT his Best Collection For Fall/Winter 2013/2014.
I don't LIKE saying that, but sometimes the truth hurts, and like i told an old flame last year, Being told the truth, even if it's painful, if it is being told out of love, Is never a Bad thing, because lying would be more hurtful! Now, Granted Fashion is SUBJECTIVE, Every one sees one collection in different ways (how else to explain the Mystery of the Adoration of the Ghesquiere.... I SHUDDER!! URGHHH!) But, Sometimes, It just doesn't all Coalesce into something Perfect. This was one of those times.
It had the Germ of a Remarkable collection ready to Sprout, but in some ways... it just felt, Gosh... FORCED! There has always been something so Effortlessy Fluid about Wu's Work, the Exquisite Technique and Wunderkind Talent have always served his clothes SO Well, But here... and this is where the train jumps the tracks... Here in his effort to "TOUGHEN" up his Aesthetic, which last season Blossomed Like Roses in the sun, This time it felt, Cold. Lifeless. As if the clothes had no pulse! The "TOUGH"-Ness Drowned out the Sweet Harmonic Womanliness that has always made his Clothes Like Catnip to the women who buy them Here... it was devoid of any of that Lyrical sweetness, Suppressed into Nothingness and replaced by A Good idea, but Bad Execution! Now, Let us not be so quick as to recognize the Beauties that lay within this Labyrinth, for there were many. The First Exit had a James Bond as Jane Bond Appeal to it that was Palpable... Strong, Sexy, A little Naughty and a little Dangerous! The whole of the Opening Section in Black, White. Charcoal and FUR had that appeal and will be FLYING Off the racks and inundating Stores with orders for them! One of my FAVES was Exit No. 9, The Dress with Black Sleeves and Snakeskin Print Chiffon Body worn over the CRISP Ferre-ish White Blouse... MAGIC! But that outfit was also in the category of one of the things LUDICROUSLY wrong with this collection! but more on that later... Exit No. 14 had LOVE Written all over it as well, the Lace Veiled Clear Plastic Trench with again, White Shirt Underneath. Per-Fect-Ion! But this Lace Veiled/Printed Section also posed some of the toughest Outfits to Digest. Julia Nobis' Exit (No. 16) is of note, not only because SHE IS THE DRABBEST Thing EVAH, but because the Beautiful Suit was made... SILLY with the Black Panels... Just Unnecessary!
Exit No. 20 was DEADLY Precise and Perfect, the Red Side Asymetric Zipped Short Coat! MUST HAVE! But then... Things got a little too.... Olivier Rousteing For it's own good. There was a Distinct Taste of Balmain here and it didn't make for interesting or particularly Wu-Like Fashion! Not that certain Fashion elements are EXCLUSIVE to Certain designers but certain things become associated with them and that Balmain Flavour was More than Distinct! Exit No. 26 was also, MAJEUR! Just The Perfect Combo of Tough Luxe and Gentle Femme! it was perhaps the Evocation of his collections theme in a nutshell!
But it was PRECISELY After that Exit that the whole thing fell apart, Save for Cora Emmanuel's STUNNER (Exit No. 38) The Show Didn't Devolve, Nor did it lose, Per se, Cohesion. It just Faltered. A Couple of reasons... One, Those Signature Feather Dresses... felt Hackneyed this time... they didn't inspire a feeling of Whimsy. they just seemed... Rote. Par for the Jason Wu Course! And Second... For a Fall/Winter Collection... there was too much Chiffon and Short Dresses... not that really a woman who Buys and Can afford Jason Wu needs to worry about the Elements so much, but it looked... out of place and Inappropriate! Too Short, Too Filmy, Too lightweight and Insubstantial! And Thirdly... Those Closing Gowns... Over the Pants... To Quote Alex from "A Clockwork Orange" HORROR SHOW! The truly were not Flattering or Inspirational nor Aspirational! They Just looked... Clunky, Droopy and I hate to say, Ill-Conceived. Not Strong and also Not Very Feminine Either.
All in All a GOOD Effort, Not his best, Not even CLOSE, but There were some Covetable pieces in there... Just i think Wu should step back and Temper his Desire to "Toughen" up his women with some Discretion and Some Wisdom, Wisdom that says, he shouldn't abandon his Signatures to Quell his Inner Searching about of his identity! No one wants to see him Stagnate, but no one also wants to see him Flounder about in the Muck! I am sure the Jason Wu Bus will be back on the right path next season... he just needs to Consult his Fashion GPS!