Sunday, April 27, 2014


Thurs. 09/26/2013.

Every Lanvin collection is kind of like an reinvention of the Wheel every season. I mean, It's a Wheel, sure, but every season Alber Elbaz takes an approach to that comes from an entirely unique point of view with the same results, The Lanvin Aesthetic is Firmly in obeisance but every season the look of that aesthetic is Wildly Divergent from the season before. It retains all the hallmarks of LANVIN, Yet it feels eccentrically different in every incarnation! Does that make any sense? I Hope so!

With all that in mind let us adjourn to the matters at hand, The Spring 2014 collection Elbaz produced for Lanvin. It was Giddily and at times, Hallucinogenically Brash. Maybe it was all that Damn Lame! It was also perhaps, One of Elbaz's Best collections to date! There was such freedom and abandon to Elbaz's offerings this season. As much as there was a 70's "Studio 54" overtone to the collection with all that metallic lame, which by the way came in Radiant Colour as well as metallics, in shades of Grape and Rubis and Teal and Peridot and on and on... There also was something of the 20's Flapper insinuating itself in the edit.

To start, I would like to mention how It has come to pass that Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and Peter Copping at Nina Ricci seem to travel in something of Parallel Paths season to season without exactly being similar at all in approach, but extremely similar in emotional presence! They both are Arch Romantics, Alber maybe is more Eccentric and Quirky while Copping is more Bohemian and somewhat more Florid. But one undeniable fact, there is a vein of inspiration that they both seem tapped into that they take the most absurdly divergent views on! How exactly does this impact either designers collections is simple... they both produce some of the most Desirable and Woman-Centric Collections In a season!

Elbaz's Desire to make everything shine this season added a Comical "Jem and The Holograms" Quirk to the collection but also a strangely Hard and Brittle quality to all that Lame Excessiveness that toughened his offerings this season in the most delicious ways! Louche was the catchphrase of the day, In an irrevocably YSL Way (DO Note, Elbaz WAS The First designer installed Chez Saint Laurent when the Great one decided to step down!) The first exit out showed how Elbaz was Channeling his YSL Days with his Decadent and Opulent sense of colour in a Violet foil Lame blazer with a Sliver top emblazoned with the word "DREAM" in a "That 70's Show" type of font and a Slippery slip of a flip skirt in Blueberry.

More Colour lusciousness... Exit No. 5 on Grace Bol in a Rubis Lame camp shirt and a Bowed wrap skirt in a Mulberry striated Lame or Exit No. 15, A Bronze topper over an translucent sheer lame camp shirt in pale Jade with a pleated pencil skirt in Emerald. But Elbaz was really showing his chops with the section of LBD's that soon followed... Especially Exits Nos. 22 and 23! SUPER CHIC!

But his YSL streak showed through to the bone on Irina Kravchenko at Exit No. 25, It had that "Velvet Rope" look down to a Science, one could have easily imagined Bianca or Liza or DVF Back in the day sashay shauntae-ing under the Coke Spoon hanging from the ceiling or in one of the Banquettes getting lensed surreptitiously by the Paparazzi or Ron Galella... A sleek Tank Bustier top with Sleek Slim Silk Harem pants! Perfection!

Things progressed as they usually do Chez Lanvin... From one High point to another with some truly Monumental high points along the way, but the energy expressed in this collection was a palpable thing and was realized in the most Fascinating and Scintillating ways! Elbaz is never one to not go Whole Hog in a collection, here he was showing a little more abandon than usual, The Intellectual was sublimated for something a little more Guttural and the collection was more Exciting for it! A Marvellously Concepted Work of Brilliance, I would say!

That's All.


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