As a Swan Song to his years reviving the House of Rochas on his way to remaking Schiaparelli Haute Couture, Marco Zanini did not go out with a Bang. It was actually one of his most uneven collections to date and although as always whimsically pretty and funny, Zany even, ultimately it was Underwhelming. Zanini's Rochas collection was all over the place and proportionally gawky! It looked much like a 60's Sitcom Hausfrau but executed in Spellbinding and Lavish Technique. Much here was Gorgeous but the way it was put together was just Dowdy! Not even in a Perverse, Arch way...Just plain Dowdy!
But Amazingly, The collection while suffering these obstacles, did offer an Exquisite treatise on elaborate decoration and embellishment as well as Vibrant and Fresh Colour. From Citrusy brights to Sugar Almond pastels to Silvery cool metallics. When Zanini did hit the Bull's-Eye it was Dazzling! But those moments were a little hard to decipher amongst the detritus! One pitfall was the terribly aging proportions of the clothes... they were oversized and not flattering nor figure accentuating. And let's not EVEN mention those Horrid Ostrich Feather embellished Flats. HIDEOUS!
A smattering of the good... well, Exit No. 7 was particularly fetching in a multicolour Velvet Cutwork flower embellished tea-length dress dusted with crystals and worn with a Sheer Camp shirt that through the look kookily askew, yet in a good way! The Immense Citron Tinsel Velvet Opera coat at Exit No. 11 burbled with 60's Couture Swagger and owed much to Balenciaga of the era but executed in totally modern fashion! Even though the proportions were off, the colour combination was Spot On at Exit No. 24 in a Cut Velvet embroidered coat in Toasted Almond and China Blue with Crystallized accents with a matching Full Skirt dress in the same China Blue with Floral Velvet adornment.
It was a pretty and fabulously extravagant end to Zanini's Tenure at Rochas and as a New designer will be moving in soon and Zanini will be making his way in the hallowed halls of Schiaparelli Couture, One is left with collection wanting perhaps a more focused and less awkward offering as a fare the well for the house... what this leaves for the incoming designer, practically a clean slate to remake the codes of the house in their own image. One can only hope that whomever that is, will honour the great things that Zanini did do for the house but hopefully move forward from this less than stellar showing.