Wednesday, October 26, 2016

Maison Martin Margiela Resort 2016.

Thurs. 06/18/2015.

Forget for a minute of two the sexless, androgyne models in the Maison Martin Margiela Resort 2016 Look Book. Forget the continuing conversation that is still floating around about Gender and Identity and all that. What may have been offhanded to house head, John Galliano, in light of the clothes, seems more superfluous than anything. The thing to concentrate on are the clothes, that Resort seems to be where we get the best synthesis of Galliano and Margiela. This collection was less obedient to the stylistic ideals set forth by Margiela and then the design team that helmed the label when he deposed himself. It had that Essential... MAGIC, that was so very indicative of the best Galliano Escapades. Reined in to an almost bland degree, but after all the bloated flotillas of collections that we had come to expect from John, bland is far more appetizing than it sounds!

If Bland is too inflammatory a word, than restrained might be more effective. And it is within that restraint that Galliano has hit upon some serious fashion. The fluidity and structure of the opening Trench was as much evidence of Galliano's Virtuoso hand as anything could possibly be, or the Glamourous slink of the Black double-face Sequined gown which spoke to Galliano's intuitively extraordinary way with Evening wear. But it was the short Ink Blue dress with a Bias-Cut Chiffon overlay printed to look like it was a window beaded with Raindrops and rivulets of water flowing down it, swished in an asymmetric flurry of material that affirmed we were in the land of Galliano, and was Drop-Dead Fabulous.

One can only hope that at some point, the Extravagance that was the unstoppable Juggernaut called John Galliano will raise himself from his slumber and inject more of himself into the Margiela work he's doing. Don't get me wrong, what he is producing now is the always interesting period between epochs, and the things he is doing at the house are Spectacular. But it's almost as if we're seeing Galliano through the prism of Margiela. I, for one, cannot wait til it is the obverse of that and we see what Margiela looks like through the Fantastical lens of John Galliano! 

That's All.


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