Finally a Collection that gets the Pretty/Tough vibe Right. Stuffed with the Rocker Side of Urban Luxe Clothes Jill Stuart's Spring 2014 collection Rocked and Rolled along with a Hip, Sexy Glam Rocker Vibe. Not that everything flowed down the river of Cool, But when it was good... it was Quite Good.
First Up, A Crop top with Modern Puff sleeves worn over a Swirling Full Skirt that was as brief as the models legs were Slender and Long. It got the Cropped top Vibe going on elsewhere this season and carved it's own niche in the look. Exit No. 2 was of the Jet Set Ilk of Rocker... a Mini Caftan Shift in Ivory with little Black tufts encrusted on it, the look was Chic and Sexy and Spare and Effortless! Some Black and White Sweaters had that Street/Alexander Wang look to them but didn't scream His Name...
A Perfect Tank neck LBD In Sleek Black Leather at Exit No. 22 was Incredibly Hip, Cool, and Chic and would adapt to Numerous fashion situations, as well as Exit No. 24 Short sleeve top coat with Dolman Sleeves in Ivory with Black Accents was Stupendously Sharp and Classy!
The Collection pushed strong to the finish line and while it stumbled along the way It was mostly a Fluid arc to the end! Stuart Worked her Pretty with Grit vibe better than most, and reaped massive rewards. Some of the pieces are instant Covet and will be satisfying her numerous clients passion for Jill's Fashion!
Grabbing ahold of the many Pretty-Slash Collections going about so far this season, Rebecca Taylor decided to Grasp onto the Pretty/Sporty Mood Hanging in the air. Emphasis on the Pretty! The Opening Salvo alerted us immediately that pretty was in the making... An Exceptional Floral Lace oversized T-Shirt/Tunic hybrid over textured Shorts in a pretty shade of Dandelion was a positively lovely start to the collection.
By Exit No. 2 though, the Sportif mood was barreling ahead with a Super Cool Mesh-y Perforated Leather T-Shirt Dress with two zippers running down the front that got the mood of Luxe Sport Just Right. As things progressed the Mashing together of Sporty and Pretty was evident in mixes of Mesh and Lace (I'll Stop The World And Melt With You!) and came in soft powdery tones that kept the edge off of the outfits but didn't distract from the cool!
The Next MAJOR Moment happened in an Altuzarra-Influenced Patching together of almost Utilitarian feeling Denim and Chambray in ticking stripes that was a bit more meaty and provided a Boyish Counterpoint to all the Sporty Girlishness. Best Out were Exit No. 12 (On new It Girl Binx Walton!) in a Cropped top (Ubiquitous, Anyone?) and Tapered Pink Pants... and Exit No. 15 in a Shift dress with side pockets that was giving Good Mod! This Combo of Denim came in Tops and Jackets and Pants and offered diversity amongst the throng of pretty.
From there things pretty much held the Pretty/Sporty Course and kept itself fresh by not being too much of either one... striking a nice balance of the two. A truly nice example of the pretty was at Exit No. 26 in a White Version of the Opening Look worn over a Long-Sleeve button-front Shirt that was worn like a dress in White also, but this version of the opening look was lavishly dappled with Embroidery and gave the collection a Luxe Thrust Forward!
Things took an Unfortunate turn in a B&B Bed Linen Floral in shades of Blue and Green and White that really was rather Garish and Unpleasant especially when splashed all over a Pantsuit. It was Headache Inducing. Better (MUCH BETTER) was the Dusty, Romantic Softer pink floral that ended the show. It was a Positive Note and A High Point for the print was absolutely Gorgeous! It brought the Show to a Sublime End and Gave us a very Flirty Vision for what Spring 2014 can be... Pretty, Sporty AND Romantic!
No need to waste too many words... The collection was a Tragic mess. Too Short. Too Junior. Little Style and Inexplicable Design, Rife with Folkloric Embroideries that neither elevated the Clothes from The Toddler Department of Old Navy nor lent any air of whimsy. And why there was the reliance on Childish Flouncy Dust Ruffles on some of the exits was a Mystery!
A couple winners were the T-Shirt Shift Dress at Exit No. 3 with an Embroidered Hawaiian Lei on the neckline that was An Easy Winner. As well the only time the Flounce Hem worked In Exit No. 9 which was giving Holly Golightly Chic in a pale pink Swing dress with a Giant Ascot Bow at the neck that was pure Fun! A Buoyant Full Skirted knee-length Party Dress with a Vibrant Pink Folklore Print At Exit No. 24 was Quite Stunning too!
But the rest... Forgettable and Moreover... Laughable. Not Fun, Nor Modern. And DEFINITELY NOT Good!
Amy Smilovic gave us a Romantic Vision of Modern Spare Urbanity that was Light But Tough and Injected Fluidity into Rigourous Restraint. It was a Captivating and Focused Collection that presented the look of the Woman of Now in a completely Original light.
Smilovic Presented a Clinically Spare almost Ascetic collection. But this was Asceticism with a most decidedly Sharp Bent. There are all the Hot Button Trends of the season so far, Cropped Tops, Leather, Sporty Chic, Utilitarian... but it whipped them into Configurations Unique to the house. One of the newest aspects to be found was a Bohemian pulse beating in the midst of all this Street Smart Modernity.
After a Strong Opening in all black with a Sleeveless Jacket and a cropped leather sleeveless top with a calf-length skirt, The clothes only grew Stronger and more Adventurous! A Sleek Navy Trench with a cropped white top and BRIEF Embroidered skirt that showed MILES of LEAN Leg and was Equally Minimal and Sexy. A Delicate Floral Print on the side of the shorts of Exit No. 6 was paired with a Fluid T-Shirt in Snow white had a Touch of the the Opulent in a wholly Now Way! One must also Admit, Smilovic handled Fringe in a way that had absolutely None of the Cowboy Connotations usually associated with it.
Also Fresh to the Eye, The Botanic print that started at Exit No. 22 On Ataui Deng and was as Buoyant and Light as the Black/White floral earlier was Romantic and Wistful. And The LBD at Exit No. 33 was as exemplary an exercise in the milleu as any! Instantly Desirable!
Ms. Smilovic Handled this collection with one of the deftest hands in the business. As she said she built the framework of "Tibi" on Clean and Minimal and now is adding Femininity and Blending in more Luxe. Even though The Quiet, Lean Force of these clothes possess their own sense of Monastic Luxury it is nice to see Ms. Smilovic Spreading her wings and expanding her purview of what exactly The New Tibi Means... if she keeps reaping rewards like she has in this collection... Her name will be far more widely known in no time!